Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.


***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

On Jun 8, 5:49*pm, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. *The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. * The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** * That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. * Is
this job too big for them. *The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. *Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??
That will affect somewhat what you do.

micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.


***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

If you have to ask how to do it, you shouldn't do it yourself.
Hire an experienced arborist.


--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

"micky" wrote in message
...
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.


***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.



1) Even though the tree overhangs your property, it's roots are
elsewhere.
In effect the tree is owned by the property owner where the roots
are.
2) If the tree is damaging your property, then the owner is responsible
for the damage
So before you do ANY kind of cutting, notify the owner and see what the
owner will do.
If nothing happens following a personal contact, you now need to start a
paper trail of your complaint as you escalate the situation.

If you just go ahead and chop away at the tree, the owner has recourse
against you. YOU do NOT want to go there..

Finally if the tree is in effect :slowly falling down", then in effect the
weight of the branches are what is causing the lean, and the roots are under
pressure and countering.
Removing the branches can cause a certain rebound effect. so if you do
decide to reach up and trim, be prepared for the tree to spring up as the
branches drop

On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 15:58:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 8, 5:49*pm, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. *The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. * The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** * That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. * Is
this job too big for them. *The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. *Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??

No, it's on never inspected, mostly neglected wild land behind my
house, owned probably by Warren Buffet's company. I don't want its
agents getting in the habit of walking behind my house, on my land,
since their land is full of bushes, vines, and trees.

That will affect somewhat what you do.

Why? Once a tree falls on a person's land, he has the right to cut
it up. Even if they are willing, I don't want them messing with
this. I don't want them coming on my property, and I think it
unlikely they will hire outside contractors who will take adequate
care of my cherry tree, or anything else for that matter (but even if
they would, I don't want them.)

I took care of the previous tree that fell down, and there won't be
any more after this one for 10 or 20 years.

What has the ownership of the base of the tree have to do with the
power of a gas tree pruner, or any of my other questions?

micky wrote:
On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 15:58:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 8, 5:49 pm, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??

No, it's on never inspected, mostly neglected wild land behind my
house, owned probably by Warren Buffet's company. I don't want its
agents getting in the habit of walking behind my house, on my land,
since their land is full of bushes, vines, and trees.

That will affect somewhat what you do.

Why? Once a tree falls on a person's land, he has the right to cut
it up. Even if they are willing, I don't want them messing with
this. I don't want them coming on my property, and I think it
unlikely they will hire outside contractors who will take adequate
care of my cherry tree, or anything else for that matter (but even if
they would, I don't want them.)

I took care of the previous tree that fell down, and there won't be
any more after this one for 10 or 20 years.

What has the ownership of the base of the tree have to do with the
power of a gas tree pruner, or any of my other questions?


Hi,
Get ready with a small chain saw you can handle with one hand, long
ladder, helmet, goggles. Prune all the branches and then cut down the
main trunk making sure let it fall where you want it. Safety is priority
one. I even cut down ~100 year old spruce tree at the cabin myself.

I was thinking tree surgeon, but much the same answer.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"willshak" wrote in message ...
micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

If you have to ask how to do it, you shouldn't do it yourself.
Hire an experienced arborist.


--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 22:02:27 -0500, "Attila Iskander"
wrote:

Removing the branches can cause a certain rebound effect.

Pay attention to this class. It matters.

Oren -- brother[RIP] of an Arborist.

On 06/08/13 11:05 pm, micky wrote:

Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??

No, it's on never inspected, mostly neglected wild land behind my
house, owned probably by Warren Buffet's company. I don't want its
agents getting in the habit of walking behind my house, on my land,
since their land is full of bushes, vines, and trees.

That will affect somewhat what you do.

Why? Once a tree falls on a person's land, he has the right to cut
it up. Even if they are willing, I don't want them messing with
this. I don't want them coming on my property, and I think it
unlikely they will hire outside contractors who will take adequate
care of my cherry tree, or anything else for that matter (but even if
they would, I don't want them.)

snip

Did the US inherit English "Common Law"? It is my understanding that, in
English law, if any branches of A's tree overhang B's property, B is
entitled to cut off that portion of the branches that overhang his (B's)
property. But if the tree is a fruit tree, the fruit on those branches
must be returned to A, since they are A's property. IOW, the tree does
not have to *fall* on B's property before he is entitled to cut off the
intruding branches.

Perce

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 22:02:27 -0500, "Attila Iskander"
wrote:

Removing the branches can cause a certain rebound effect.

Pay attention to this class. It matters.

Oren -- brother[RIP] of an Arborist.



Never was an "arborist"...
But I worked a couple of summers as a faller and topper when in college.

On Sun, 09 Jun 2013 16:41:59 -0400, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

On 06/08/13 11:05 pm, micky wrote:

Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??

No, it's on never inspected, mostly neglected wild land behind my
house, owned probably by Warren Buffet's company. I don't want its
agents getting in the habit of walking behind my house, on my land,
since their land is full of bushes, vines, and trees.

That will affect somewhat what you do.

Why? Once a tree falls on a person's land, he has the right to cut
it up. Even if they are willing, I don't want them messing with
this. I don't want them coming on my property, and I think it
unlikely they will hire outside contractors who will take adequate
care of my cherry tree, or anything else for that matter (but even if
they would, I don't want them.)

snip

Did the US inherit English "Common Law"? It is my understanding that, in
English law, if any branches of A's tree overhang B's property, B is
entitled to cut off that portion of the branches that overhang his (B's)
property. But if the tree is a fruit tree, the fruit on those branches
must be returned to A, since they are A's property. IOW, the tree does
not have to *fall* on B's property before he is entitled to cut off the
intruding branches.

Perce

Yes, the US did inherit English Common Law, and indeed, what you said
is the law in the US. I didn't want to argue with whoever said
otherwise. (I forgot about fruit, but what you say sounds right.
This tree has none.)

New York State completely, and I suppose some other states partially,
have enacted laws to replace common law, but those statutes more often
than not say the same thing the common law did. Certainly on
overhanging limbs they do. I'm not sure about overhanging trunks, but
this tree can't be repaired except maybe and at enormous cost.

When I moved in 30 years ago to this townhouse, it was 4 years after
the county government dug a trench and put a big sewer line in
parallel to the stream, just 20 feet from my property. (New
construction had been put on hold until the sewer was completed, but
aiui, my own house and those near it were built illegally in violation
of the hold.) Over the next few years, several trees died because
digging the trench cut too many of their roots. At the same time
grasses and bushes were growing, and then new trees. These new
trees, especially those growing on the slope of the stream bed, are
30+ years old now, and they are either dying or falling down. Most
die, but this one is still alive just about everywhere. The trunk is
not split either. But if you look at the trunk where it goes into the
ground, it used to be vertical, then a 45^ angle, and now about a 30^
angle. I think if my bushes weren't holding it up, it would be my 4o
inch fence, and if not that, the tree would be lying on the ground.
If not now, in 2 or 3 months. (It rained a lot the days before it
fell down from 45 to 30.) If the property owners knew about it,
they'd just call it gone, and wait to see what else grows.

Between me and the street on the other side of the stream, there seems
not to be enough dry land to legally build anything, so I'm hoping
they never do.

On Saturday, June 8, 2013 6:49:26 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?



A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard

for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit

lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to

40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to

18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'

high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots

too.



What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That

is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off

at the base.)



Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -

7" thick.



I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way

to get them up that high**.



They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I

think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is

this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain

is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?



Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I

can find for rent if I look long enough?



**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own

telescoping pole



Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric

motor) is what helps the saw to cut.





***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then

it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning

red, and on my fence.



Thanks.

In NC once the tree falls on your property it's your problem. And your insurance will pay if it lands on something of yours. The one exception to that is if you see a damaged tree on adjacent property that you believe is endangering your property and you notify the owner of the property where the tree is in writing then it becomes that persons responsibility if the tree falls on your property and damages something. It's still their choice as to doing something about it or just accepting the liability though.

If you have a tree you can't just cut down while you stay on the ground I would suggest getting a professional. Chains saws don't mix well with ladders or climbing in trees. Leave that to the pro.

On Saturday, June 8, 2013 6:49:26 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

For what it will cost you for a day's rent on the pruner, why not get it and give it a whirl?

Probably a good idea to rent a 10' ladder too. Standing 5' up a 6' ladder doesn't leave you much stability, and you will probably lose your balance and fall with the heavy pruner.

I have been able to easily cut off branches up to 8" in diameter using a cheap Poulan power pruner. A professional unit should do at least as well.

On 6/8/2013 3:49 PM, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

On Sat, 08 Jun 2013 22:47:55 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:

micky wrote:
On Sat, 8 Jun 2013 15:58:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jun 8, 5:49 pm, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is the base of the tree on your property, or who does it belong to??

No, it's on never inspected, mostly neglected wild land behind my
house, owned probably by Warren Buffet's company. I don't want its
agents getting in the habit of walking behind my house, on my land,
since their land is full of bushes, vines, and trees.

That will affect somewhat what you do.

Why? Once a tree falls on a person's land, he has the right to cut
it up. Even if they are willing, I don't want them messing with
this. I don't want them coming on my property, and I think it
unlikely they will hire outside contractors who will take adequate
care of my cherry tree, or anything else for that matter (but even if
they would, I don't want them.)

I took care of the previous tree that fell down, and there won't be
any more after this one for 10 or 20 years.

What has the ownership of the base of the tree have to do with the
power of a gas tree pruner, or any of my other questions?


Hi,
Get ready with a small chain saw you can handle with one hand, long
ladder, helmet, goggles. Prune all the branches and then cut down the

This advice is even more appropriate today, The trunk and all its
limbs went down another 4 feet sometime last night (It's still
raining, lightly). Now I can definitely reach a lot of it with a 6'
ladder and a little chain saw, especially the part above the cherry
tree.

main trunk making sure let it fall where you want it. Safety is priority
one. I even cut down ~100 year old spruce tree at the cabin myself.

Cool.

On Sat, 08 Jun 2013 18:49:26 -0400, micky
wrote:

Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.


***I can't cut it off at the base in order to lower it, because then
it will fall on my new cherry tree, whose cherries are just turning
red, and on my fence.

Thanks.

Is it a Box Elder? They have very shallow rots and are notorious for
just tipping over. I have too many of them on my farm. Do you have
access to a tractor? Can you drive on that other land? Toss a LONG
chain around it about 8 ft from the ground, hook to tractor, and pull it
onto that land. But be sure the chain is long enough or it will fall on
you. That's what I'd do, but I own a farm tractor. Then I'd just cut it
up.

You could also connect a long chain to a tractor, pull it toward the
other land, and make the chain tight. Then saw it from your side of the
land about 8 feet from the ground. When it's cut most of the way thru,
give a good pull with the tractor. A pickup truck would work too on a
smallish tree like that. But once again, make sure the chain is long,
or you'll drop the tree on yout truck.

One other option is to use a long chain and a come-along. Connect the
come along to the base of a larger tree and start ratcheting it toward
the neighbors land as someone cuts the tree. I've done all of these
things, they all work, but always be very careful. Trees can be
unpredictable when they snap off. Once I underestimated the height of a
tree and the chain was too short. I got the tips of the branches on my
head. Luckily I was not hurt, but it didn't feel too good.

I've seen those gas operated long pole chainsaws. I've considered
getting one of them for trimming. They look handy. But I'd prefer an
electric one. Any of those 2 cycle small gas engines tend to need too
much repair if they are not used often. The gas gums them up, even if
it's drained, there is still a little in the carburetor and lines. I
dont even own a regular gas chainsaw anymore. My electric one is great,
and if I'm too far from an outlet, I have a generator. The generator is
4 cycle and is used fairly often. Never had any problems with that.

Another thing, those pole type saws are not something you can just lay
down while it's running. So you will have to restart it for every
branch you cut. That would **** me off in no time. An electric one
seems so much handier. Just hit the switch. But I have not seen
electric models sold.

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:33:16 -0700, sms
wrote:

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

So they do sell electric ones. That's what I need. But I wont buy it
from Harbor Freight. The thing would probably be dead after 4 hours of
use or less. HF sells junk. And that pole is too short for my needs
too. I took a 20ft wooden pole and attached a hand operated bow saw to
it. It's heavy and clumbsy, but it does do the job after a lot of
sweat. A 20ft pole would be more my style!

On Tuesday, June 11, 2013 7:45:40 AM UTC-4, wrote:
So they do sell electric ones.

5 seconds on google would've answered that question for you.

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 06:45:40 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:33:16 -0700, sms
wrote:

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

So they do sell electric ones. That's what I need. But I wont buy it
from Harbor Freight. The thing would probably be dead after 4 hours of
use or less. HF sells junk. And that pole is too short for my needs

I'ts 8'10" but the pro ones are 12 feet.

too. I took a 20ft wooden pole and attached a hand operated bow saw to
it. It's heavy and clumbsy, but it does do the job after a lot of
sweat. A 20ft pole would be more my style!

I also need to do some trimming on a 25 foot fir tree.

I have a telescoping aluminum pole meant to hold a paint roller. I
even used it to paint the peak of my gable (right word?) I somehow
thought small chain saws were also threaded like a paint roller and I
could just screw my small one or my medium small one (3.25 HP, 12", is
that medium small?), but neither had threads, so then I spend some
time trying to think how to attach with rope and bungee cords. No
good answer yet.

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:33:16 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 6/8/2013 3:49 PM, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

A tree about 10 feet outside my yard was at a 45^ angle over my yard
for the last 6 months, and yesterday some time, it went down a bit
lower, not it's maybe a 30^ angle with the ground. The tree is 35 to
40 feet tall, if it were upright, and now its trunk and branches 12 to
18 feet above the ground. The tree branches are resting on some 20'
high bushes in my yard, and I think it's still held up by the roots
too.

What is a good way to cut it up, while it is still up there?*** That
is, cut off ends, working back to my fence (and then it can be cut off
at the base.)

Branches are 2 - 4" thick and the trunk where I want to cut it is 3 -
7" thick.

I have a couple small and medium-small electric chain saws, but no way
to get them up that high**.

They rent gas driven tree pruners, with telescoping poles, which I
think will reach high enough if I'm 5 feet up a 6 foot ladder. Is
this job too big for them. The engine is at the bottom and the chain
is at the top. Maybe it will stall or won't cut for some reason?

Are there electric tree pruners that might be lighter, that maybe I
can find for rent if I look long enough?

**Or could I tie one of my small electric chain saws to my own
telescoping pole

Gas or electric, I guess the weight of the bar and blade (and electric
motor) is what helps the saw to cut.

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

Wow, you're right, I do want that. Even though the tree fell lower
and I'm 2/3rds done, I want it for next time.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

Wow. And yet they put them on sale.



I think I saw one of those house brands of bicycle for sale for $100,
10-speeds, hand brakes etc. Now I'm pretty sure it won't last as
long** as a Schwinn would but I remember in 1965, a new Schwinn
3-speed cost 65 dollars. So the price for A bicycle has gone up only
55 percent or so in almost 50 years. While everything we don't buy
from Asia is probably 10x what it used to be.

**Not sure. When I have things they seem to last forever. In fact I
still have a Schwinn from 1965 or earlier (although I don't ride it.)

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:05:23 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, June 8, 2013 6:49:26 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

For what it will cost you for a day's rent on the pruner, why not get it and give it a whirl?

It turns out that Saturday night it rained and the whole tree sagged
another 2 or 4 feet (If I said something different in an earlier post,
go with that instead) Anyhow, I could reach things by being up 3
feet on a ladder.

Probably a good idea to rent a 10' ladder too.

That is a good idea. I'm supposed to have a ladder rack that fits on
my trailer hitch. I got a newer car that takes a 3/4? draw bar
(instead of the rectangular draw bar the LeBaron took, back in '88)
and I haven't got all the accessories for it yet, but I could have
done that. (I use a big piece of foarm rubber on top of the windshield
molding to hold the front end of the ladder (It's a convertible.)

Standing 5' up a 6' ladder doesn't leave you much stability, and you will probably lose your balance and fall with the heavy pruner.

Yeah, I was standing 3 feet up on a 6 foot ladder and it wasn't that
stable.

I have been able to easily cut off branches up to 8" in diameter using a cheap Poulan power pruner.

Wow. I had no idea.

Can you give me more details, electric or gas?

So far I've only found th is one
Poulan 1.5 HP Electric Pole Pruner $98.99
http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/poul...Fcye4AodOFMArw
If this electric one is the one you mean, it costs less than two days
rental of the gasoline unit.
Rental for one day of the pro item, gas-powered, at one place was $65,
and at HD less but they may not have listed all the charges (CDW, and
a couple other things)

A professional unit should do at least as well.

Yeah, but now I want my own!


BTW, for the record

Poulan Pro® Pole Saw/Trimmer — 8in. Bar, 33cc Engine, Model# PP388PT
(56) Only $229 They call it Pro, but maybe it's not what you meant
by pro.

Husqvarna Pole Pruner — 12in. Bar, 24.5cc Engine, Model# 327P5X
(2) Only $569

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 06:23:54 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 08 Jun 2013 18:49:26 -0400, micky
wrote:

Is this job too big for a gas tree pruner?

......
Is it a Box Elder?

No, I just looked that up in wikip and they have the helicopter seeds
I used to see all the time when I was little.

(Some tree near the front of my house has a small version of those
seeds, but I don't know what that tree is called.)

The tree in question was about 50 feet high. Its "fruit" looks like
long strings of green grapes, 4 or 5 inches long, 2 at each level,
except they are less than half the size of actual grapes, they are
hard, pointy at the unattached end, with a tiny bit of red-colored
stuff at that end.

When they split open, they let out stuff that's lighter and finer than
cotton, looks a bit like cotton, but they float. It looks even more
like milkweed seeds when they are floating along, except milkweed has
a big seed. This has a really small one.

Any guess what this is?

They have very shallow rots and are notorious for
just tipping over. I have too many of them on my farm. Do you have
access to a tractor? Can you drive on that other land? Toss a LONG

No it's a stream bed with little access. It's probably all mud now,
and I don't have a tractor (not even a lawn tractor.)

chain around it about 8 ft from the ground, hook to tractor, and pull it
onto that land. But be sure the chain is long enough or it will fall on
you. That's what I'd do, but I own a farm tractor. Then I'd just cut it
up.

You could also connect a long chain to a tractor, pull it toward the
other land, and make the chain tight. Then saw it from your side of the
land about 8 feet from the ground. When it's cut most of the way thru,
give a good pull with the tractor. A pickup truck would work too on a
smallish tree like that. But once again, make sure the chain is long,
or you'll drop the tree on yout truck.

One other option is to use a long chain and a come-along. Connect the
come along to the base of a larger tree and start ratcheting it toward
the neighbors land as someone cuts the tree. I've done all of these
things, they all work, but always be very careful. Trees can be
unpredictable when they snap off. Once I underestimated the height of a
tree and the chain was too short. I got the tips of the branches on my
head. Luckily I was not hurt, but it didn't feel too good.

I've seen those gas operated long pole chainsaws. I've considered
getting one of them for trimming. They look handy. But I'd prefer an
electric one.

I figured electric ones could barely cut.

Any of those 2 cycle small gas engines tend to need too
much repair if they are not used often.

And that's the problem with gas. (I eventually got an electric lawn
mower for my 1/20th of an acre, including where the house is. )

The gas gums them up, even if
it's drained, there is still a little in the carburetor and lines. I
dont even own a regular gas chainsaw anymore. My electric one is great,
and if I'm too far from an outlet, I have a generator. The generator is
4 cycle and is used fairly often. Never had any problems with that.

Another thing, those pole type saws are not something you can just lay
down while it's running. So you will have to restart it for every
branch you cut.

Dang.

That would **** me off in no time.

Me too.

An electric one
seems so much handier. Just hit the switch. But I have not seen
electric models sold.

There are other posts about it in this thread, including some info
from me.

micky wrote:

-snip-

The tree in question was about 50 feet high. Its "fruit" looks like
long strings of green grapes, 4 or 5 inches long, 2 at each level,
except they are less than half the size of actual grapes, they are
hard, pointy at the unattached end, with a tiny bit of red-colored
stuff at that end.

When they split open, they let out stuff that's lighter and finer than
cotton, looks a bit like cotton, but they float. It looks even more
like milkweed seeds when they are floating along, except milkweed has
a big seed. This has a really small one.

Any guess what this is?


Here's my guess--
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ts_2009_G1.jpg

That photo is 'next week' for those 'bunches of grapes'.

Soft wood- good for lumber, and turning- but not much else.

Jim

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:46:33 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

micky wrote:

-snip-

The tree in question was about 50 feet high. Its "fruit" looks like
long strings of green grapes, 4 or 5 inches long, 2 at each level,
except they are less than half the size of actual grapes, they are
hard, pointy at the unattached end, with a tiny bit of red-colored
stuff at that end.

When they split open, they let out stuff that's lighter and finer than
cotton, looks a bit like cotton, but they float. It looks even more
like milkweed seeds when they are floating along, except milkweed has
a big seed. This has a really small one.

Any guess what this is?


Here's my guess--
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ts_2009_G1.jpg

That photo is 'next week' for those 'bunches of grapes'.

Didn't understand this at first. Yes, the picture is after all the
grapes have burst, which has pretty much happened in the last two
days. Maybe cutting the branches from the trunk sped it up.

It's a cottonwood tree, which is a kind of poplar.

Soft wood- good for lumber, and turning- but not much else.

One page said it was hard wood but a soft kind. !!

Jim

micky wrote:

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:46:33 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

-snip-

Here's my guess--
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ts_2009_G1.jpg

That photo is 'next week' for those 'bunches of grapes'.

Didn't understand this at first. Yes, the picture is after all the
grapes have burst, which has pretty much happened in the last two
days. Maybe cutting the branches from the trunk sped it up.

It's a cottonwood tree, which is a kind of poplar.

Soft wood- good for lumber, and turning- but not much else.

One page said it was hard wood but a soft kind. !!

Yup-- I'd say that too, though I don't remember the specifics of
*why*. In woodworking terms, yellow pine is soft-wood, though it is
harder than poplar which is hard-wood.

It has been explained to me in the past-- but those brain cells seem
to have disappeared.

Jim

On Thursday, June 13, 2013 8:37:05 AM UTC-4, elbrecht wrote:
micky wrote:



On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:46:33 -0400, Jim Elbrecht

wrote:



-snip-



Here's my guess--

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ts_2009_G1.jpg



That photo is 'next week' for those 'bunches of grapes'.



Didn't understand this at first. Yes, the picture is after all the

grapes have burst, which has pretty much happened in the last two

days. Maybe cutting the branches from the trunk sped it up.



It's a cottonwood tree, which is a kind of poplar.



Soft wood- good for lumber, and turning- but not much else.



One page said it was hard wood but a soft kind. !!



Yup-- I'd say that too, though I don't remember the specifics of

*why*. In woodworking terms, yellow pine is soft-wood, though it is

harder than poplar which is hard-wood.



It has been explained to me in the past-- but those brain cells seem

to have disappeared.



Jim

For what it's worth I have one of those little pruning chainsaws on a stick that attaches to the "universal" trimmer gas tools. Even came with a extension stick to make it longer. I've been satisfied with it.

On Thu, 13 Jun 2013 08:37:05 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

micky wrote:

On Wed, 12 Jun 2013 07:46:33 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

-snip-

Here's my guess--
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...ts_2009_G1.jpg

That photo is 'next week' for those 'bunches of grapes'.

Didn't understand this at first. Yes, the picture is after all the
grapes have burst, which has pretty much happened in the last two
days. Maybe cutting the branches from the trunk sped it up.

It's a cottonwood tree, which is a kind of poplar.

Soft wood- good for lumber, and turning- but not much else.

One page said it was hard wood but a soft kind. !!

Yup-- I'd say that too, though I don't remember the specifics of
*why*. In woodworking terms, yellow pine is soft-wood, though it is
harder than poplar which is hard-wood.

It has been explained to me in the past-- but those brain cells seem
to have disappeared.

Jim

Yes, in the last few years, I now understand the expresson "I've
forgotten more than you'll ever know."

Do you need a power tool?

I've cut up a lot of small trees with just a hand saw, especially when they're green and soft.

Now that you can reach most of it, just get a ladder and a saw and start trimming.

It takes a long time and your time may be worth something. But on the other hand you're unlikely to hurt yourself with a handsaw, and that may not be true with a chain saw.

Oh, and really pay attention to that spring back thing. A friend of mine broke his back when he sawed off a limb end, and the rest of it jumped up when it was freed of the weight. Hit his ladder and knocked him off.

On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 12:45:28 -0700 (PDT), TimR
wrote:

Do you need a power tool?

I've cut up a lot of small trees with just a hand saw, especially when they're green and soft.

Now that you can reach most of it, just get a ladder and a saw and start trimming.

It takes a long time and your time may be worth something. But on the other hand you're unlikely to hurt yourself with a handsaw, and that may not be true with a chain saw.

Oh, and really pay attention to that spring back thing. A friend of mine broke his back when he sawed off a limb end, and the rest of it jumped up when it was freed of the weight. Hit his ladder and knocked him off.

Thanks. Because of your warning and others', I spent a lot of time
picking which branches to cut off first, etc. and thinking about the
position of the ladder,

A lot of it was 6 to 10" thick. I never would have finished with a
hand saw.

P&M

On 6/11/2013 4:45 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:33:16 -0700, sms
wrote:

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

So they do sell electric ones. That's what I need. But I wont buy it
from Harbor Freight. The thing would probably be dead after 4 hours of
use or less.

LOL, some HF stuff does fail quickly though I have never had one of
their power tools or air tools fail. I have not seen an electric pruner
anywhere else. It prevents me from doing crazy things with a chain saw
on an unstable ladder.

You can always buy the extended warranty that the desperately try to
sell you.

On Fri, 14 Jun 2013 23:31:06 -0700, SMS
wrote:

On 6/11/2013 4:45 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 13:33:16 -0700, sms
wrote:

What you probably want is this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html.

These are in very short supply. I finally got one after about six months
of waiting for the store to get some. They got two of them and they sold
them within minutes of each other (I saw the guy in line with the other
one).

So they do sell electric ones. That's what I need. But I wont buy it
from Harbor Freight. The thing would probably be dead after 4 hours of
use or less.

LOL, some HF stuff does fail quickly though I have never had one of
their power tools or air tools fail. I have not seen an electric pruner
anywhere else. It prevents me from doing crazy things with a chain saw
on an unstable ladder.

You can always buy the extended warranty that the desperately try to
sell you.

I bought my 12" Remington pole saw from HF for about $70 several years
ago. Lowes has a 10" for $100. Advantage is that it is a saw
that detaches from the pole in a minute and can be used independent of
the pole.

Jim