Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

On May 25, 7:30*pm, BM wrote:
Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. *One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. * When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. *What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

BobAds not by this site

Check the oven timer on it is not in the "off" position first job.

On May 25, 2:30*pm, BM wrote:
Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. *One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. * When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. *What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

It sounds like something shorted out, tripped the breaker,
and then went open. Like for example a wire shorting to
the cabinet. It would generate enough heat to melt it so
it goes open and at the same time enough current so
the breaker trips. You can reset the breaker now because
what once caused it has vaporized.

If you have knowledge of electricity, some basic tools, a circuit
schematic and a meter you can figure it out. If
not, time to call a pro.

On 25 May 2013 18:30:38 GMT, BM wrote:

Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

Pull the element (s) and look for scorch / burn marks at the socket.

Might be temporary. Ya gotta look...

Oren wrote:
On 25 May 2013 18:30:38 GMT, BM wrote:

Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

Pull the element (s) and look for scorch / burn marks at the socket.

Might be temporary. Ya gotta look...


It goes without saying that you should turn off the circuit breaker when
you do this. Safety first.

"BM" wrote in message ...

Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

Also when you remove the (calrod) element check if there is a burn through
visible. This is a common failure that trips the breaker. The element
shorts to neutral and of course the element needs replacement. Some ovens
have a pull out element and some do not. these require removing the back
panel to remove the wiring. BE SURE BREAKER IS OFF FIRST FOR SAFETY. WW

BM:

Certainly, check that the oven timer isn't on, or that the timer is stuck so the oven won't heat up until it's time for it to do so, and the timer is stuck so it'll never do so.

I've found that it's fairly common for the terminals going to the oven's bake element to burn off. The reason for this is that the oven element is used a lot more than the broil element, and the continuous heating up and cooling down of the bake element causes the terminals pushed onto the bake element to loosen up with time.

What it sounds like is that the terminal burnt off of the bake element. When the burnt off wire fell off the end of the bake element, it may have contacted the metal chassis of the stove, causing that wire to ground and tripping your breaker. When you tripped the breaker on again, the surface elements would still work but not the oven because the bake element is now disconnected cuz of the burned off wire.

Whenever it comes to making connections with terminals and spade connectors, you want to both crimp the terminal onto the wire TIGHTLY, and ensure the terminal is TIGHT on the blade connector. There's something called the "million dollar crimp" which you should NOT see when hiring a appliance repair man to fix your appliance. (I've also heard it called a "cold" crimp.) That's where he grimaces and lets out an "UGH" noise when crimping the terminal onto a wire, but really doesn't squeeze the crimping tool very hard. The result is that the terminal isn't crimped onto the wire very tightly, and as that terminal heats up and cools down, it'll loosen up and the gap between the wire and the terminal will fill up with metal oxides and will get hot when electricity flows through those resistive oxides. Eventually, that connection will get so hot when electricity flows through it, that it'll burn both off where the wire enters the terminal, and the appliance will malfunction.

The result will be what's left of the terminal will still be on the blade connector, but the wire will be burned off with no terminal on it's end. If you see that, it's due to that million dollar crimp, and it means that someone knowledgeable about appliance repairs is screwing you. They make a loose crimp intentionally so that they know it'll burn off in a matter of a few months; especially high current circuits like those going to the bake element.

If the part of the terminal you crimp onto the wire is still on the wire, then it wasn;t the crimp that got hot, and that means it was just the normal heating up and cooling down of the bake element that caused the connector to loosen up and burn off. That can happen normally, and it's just due to the terminal loosening up over time.

If you're using the services of a local handyman that charges you less than an appliance repair man, and you find that he's continuously replacing burnt off wires, it's because he's cheating you. He's using that million dollar crimp technique to ensure you keep calling him back for repairs. He might be charging you less, but he's screwing you because he's making sure you have to keep calling him back to repair his crimping.

Pull the stove out and remove the back cover. Check the two wires going to the bake element terminals. I suspect one or both of them are burned off. Take careful note as to whether what's left of the terminal is on the wire or on the blade connector of the bake element cuz that will tell you where the heat was, and that will tell you whether it was due to a loose crimp or just the terminal itself loosening up with time.

"nestork" wrote in message ...


BM;3068271 Wrote:
Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. One day when it was on it

tripped the curcut on my circuit board. When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler.
What
could be wrong with it?

thank you

Bob

BM:
I've found that it's fairly common for the terminals going to the oven't
bake element to burn off. The reason for this is that the oven element
is used a lot more than the broil element, and the continuous heating up
and cooling down of the bake element causes the terminals pushed onto
the bake element to loosen up with time.

Whenever it comes to pushing terminals onto blade connectors, you want
to both crimp the terminal onto the wire TIGHTLY, and ensure the
terminal is TIGHT on the blade connector. There's something called the
"million dollar crimp" which you should NOT see when hiring a appliance
repair man to fix your appliance. That's where he grimaces and lets out
an "UUGH" noise when crimping the terminal onto a wire, but really
doesn't squeeze the crimping tool very hard. The result is a terminal
that's not crimped onto the wire very tightly, and as that terminal
loosens up, the gap between the wire and the terminal will fill up with
metal oxides, and will get hot when electricity flows through that gap.
Eventually, that connection will get so hot when electricity flows
through it, that it'll burn both off where the wire going into the
terminal, and the appliance will malfunction.

If you're using the services of a local handyman that charges you less
than an appliance repair man, and you find that he's continuously
replacing burnt off terminals, it's because he's cheating you. He's
using that million dollar crimp technique to ensure your appliances are
always on the blink cuz of burnt off terminals.

Pull the stove out and remove the back cover. Check the two wires going
to the bake element terminals. I suspect one or both of them are burned
off.




--
nestork


The years I spent as an appliance repairman, on the spade connectors I used
were heavier than the manufacture used, Hard to push on. Also after crimping
the wire I soldered the crimp. Never had a recall on these. WW

Kudos for a job well done, WW.

In my case, I have to maintain 21 fridges, 21 stoves, 3 washers and 3 dryers, and my two sister's appliances. I find that if you crimp a terminal on properly, you really don't need to solder it. A decent crimp will last longer than grandma, so it's hard to justify the extra time and labour of soldering those crimps.

I just wanted to let people know that if they're often finding wires burning off in their appliances, and the same person is maintaining those appliances, they might be the target of a scam. I figured I'd explain it, and what to look for so they'd know if their being scammed.

Thank you. I'd not heard of that scam, but I'll watch for it, now that I've been informed. You are very kind to warn others.
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..
..
"nestork" wrote in message ...


I just wanted to let people know that if they're often finding wires
burning off in their appliances, and the same person is maintaining
those appliances, they might be the target of a scam. I figured I'd
explain it, and what to look for so they'd know if their being scammed.




--
nestork

harry wrote in news:6bb1eb4a-d20f-4ef6-a5a1-
:

On May 25, 7:30*pm, BM wrote:
Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301. *One day when it was on it
tripped the curcut on my circuit board. * When I flipped the circuit
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler. *W
hat
could be wrong with it?

thank you

BobAds not by this site

Check the oven timer on it is not in the "off" position first job.




its not the timer, it is offf. plus the broiler does not work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a relatively short area like an inch or two. Use a flashlight to check for any anomolies along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it feeling for areas that are very rough. If you don't find anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. It will have TWO 50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. If you have a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp fuses in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of them. That's done for safety reasons.

2. If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug the stove as well so that you can move it where you have unfettered access to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be visible. Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the oven temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the bake element terminals.

That's what these forums are supposed to be about.
Each of us share what we know, and we all learn from each other.

nestork wrote in
:


BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. plus the broiler does not work


Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be damaged.
When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a relatively short
area like an inch or two. Use a flashlight to check for any anomolies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it
feeling for areas that are very rough. If you don't find anything
wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip BOTH
of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. It will have TWO
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. If you have
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp fuses
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of them.
That's done for safety reasons.

2. If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug the
stove as well so that you can move it where you have unfettered access
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the stove,
and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be
visible. Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the oven
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector
switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire burned
off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the bake element
terminals.





The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board from
the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. if I replace that unit
I should be good to go? I hope

On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:
nestork wrote :







BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be damaged.
When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a relatively short
area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight to check for any anomolies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it
feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find anything
wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip BOTH
of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. *It will have TWO
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If you have
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp fuses
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of them.
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug the
stove as well so that you can move it where you have unfettered access
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the stove,
and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be
visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the oven
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector
switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire burned
off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the bake element
terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board from
the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I replace that unit
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Maybe. But here is the risk. Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else is
wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. It
could have failed on it's own. Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.

wrote in message
...
board could burn up too. If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.

It seems that is the way it is for many things. The replacement parts cost
a big percentage of just replacing the whole unit.

I still think of the deal that the Commodor computer company had years ago.
They wold fix any computer for about $ 75. When it got the the repair
place, they would open it up and replace the whole insides with a board that
cost them about $ 50. I just don't remember what the computer cost back
then.

On May 27, 10:08*am, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:
wrote in message

...

board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.

It seems that is the way it is for many things. *The replacement parts cost
a big percentage of just replacing the whole unit.

I still think of the deal that the Commodor computer company had years ago.
They wold fix *any computer for about $ 75. *When it got the the repair
place, they would open it up and replace the whole insides with a board that
cost them about $ 50. *I just don't remember what the computer cost back
then.

I don;t know how it works right now, but about 10 years
ago I had my Tivo replaced. They charged a flat $100.
I sent my old one in and they sent me a refurbished one.
I thought that was a fair deal.

If it was me, I would phone the stove manufacturer's 1-800 customer service number and find out who does warranty work on your stove. Tell them what you saw and find out of that's a common problem on your stove. Often, appliances will all have the same problem because of a poorly manufactured or designed part. Ask them if it's possible to test the circuit board, or if what happened to your board is a common problem with these stoves.

But, beyond that, Trader4 is right. Appliance timers and circuit boards control what the appliance does, and so whenever ANYTHING goes wrong, the timer or circuit board is always suspect. So, you need to check everything else (like continuity through the bake and broil elements to make sure they're working) before you spend the money on a new circuit board.

But, a scorched area on a circuit board is NOT normal, and I suspect the problem is with that circuit board.

On May 27, 8:38*am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:





nestork wrote :

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be damaged.
When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a relatively short
area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight to check for any anomolies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it
feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find anything
wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip BOTH
of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. *It will have TWO
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If you have
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp fuses
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of them..
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug the
stove as well so that you can move it where you have unfettered access
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the stove,
and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be
visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the oven
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector
switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire burned
off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the bake element
terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board from
the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I replace that unit
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. *But here is the risk. *Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else is
wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. *It
could have failed on it's own. *Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? Also,does the
schematic show the printed board? If you can trace the burned area
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where to
look for the problem that caused the burn.

I would maybe find out what the part number of the board is and Google it.

If you buy it from the factory authorized repair depot, it's going to cost an arm and a leg.

If you buy it from any appliance parts shop, it's going to be expensive.

If you buy it online, you might get it pretty cheap.

That's because a lot of these electronic components are made in China and Singapore and Malaysia, and some online vendors buy those same parts from the manufacturers and sell them online here in North America for much less.

I paid $60 for a heater relay for a Maytag front loading dryer at my local Reliable Part store cuz the Maytag factory authorized service depot wanted over $100 for it. Then I bought two more just like it online for $12 each. They both even had the Maytag logo printed on them. I fully expect they came from the same factory in Asia that makes them for Maytag.

" wrote in
:

On May 27, 8:38*am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:





nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight to
check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it
feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip
BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. *It will
have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If you
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp
fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of
them
.
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be
visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the
ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector
switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire
burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the
bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I replace
that un
it
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. *But here is the risk. *Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else is
wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. *It
could have failed on it's own. *Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted text
-

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? Also,does the
schematic show the printed board? If you can trace the burned area
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where to
look for the problem that caused the burn.


here are photos of the control unit.
is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater but
the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?
even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it still
needs to be replaced, correct?

On May 29, 9:22*am, Bob wrote:
" wrote :





On May 27, 8:38*am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight to
check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over it
feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or trip
BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel. *It will
have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If you
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50 amp
fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both of
them
.
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should be
visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at the
ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil selector
switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find a wire
burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going to the
bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I replace
that un
it
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. *But here is the risk. *Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else is
wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. *It
could have failed on it's own. *Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted text
-

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? *Also,does the
schematic *show the printed board? *If you can trace the burned area
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where to
look for the problem that caused the burn.

here are photos of the control unit.


I don't see any photos. If you tried to post them directly
here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports
pics.


is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater but
the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?

Yes



even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it still
needs to be replaced, correct?- Hide quoted text -


Yes. The only issue is if that "something else" caused it
and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn
out the new one as soon as you turn it on.

" wrote in
:

On May 29, 9:22*am, Bob wrote:
" wrote
innews:82e78afc
:





On May 27, 8:38*am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not
work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight
to check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over
it feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or
trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel.
*It will have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If
yo
u
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50
amp fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both
of them
.
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should
be visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at
the ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil
selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find
a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going
to the bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I
replace that un
it
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. *But here is the risk. *Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else
is wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. *It
could have failed on it's own. *Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? *Also,does the
schematic *show the printed board? *If you can trace the burned are
a
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where
to look for the problem that caused the burn.

here are photos of the control unit.


I don't see any photos. If you tried to post them directly
here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports
pics.


is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater
but the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?

Yes



even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it
still needs to be replaced, correct?- Hide quoted text -


Yes. The only issue is if that "something else" caused it
and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn
out the new one as soon as you turn it on.


where would i post the photos?
is it also possible that the problem is just in the control panel?

On May 29, 1:11*pm, Bob wrote:
" wrote :





On May 29, 9:22*am, Bob wrote:
" wrote
innews:82e78afc
:

On May 27, 8:38*am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59*am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. *plus the broiler does not
work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. *Use a flashlight
to check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over
it feeling for areas that are very rough. *If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or
trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel.
*It will have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. *If
yo
u
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50
amp fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both
of them
.
*That's done for safety reasons.

2. *If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should
be visible. *Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. *It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at
the ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil
selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find
a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going
to the bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. *if I
replace that un
it
I should be good to go? * I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. *But here is the risk. *Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else
is wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. *It
could have failed on it's own. *Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. *If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. *But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. *Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? *Also,does the
schematic *show the printed board? *If you can trace the burned are
a
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where
to look for the problem that caused the burn.

here are photos of the control unit.

I don't see any photos. *If you tried to post them directly
here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports
pics.

is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater
but the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?

Yes

even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it
still needs to be replaced, correct?- Hide quoted text -

Yes. *The only issue is if that "something else" caused it
and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn
out the new one as soon as you turn it on.

where would i post the photos?

IDK, but I'm sure others will give suggestions. Or you
could google for "free picture hosting" etc


is it also possible that the problem is just in the control panel?- Hide quoted text -


Sure it could be just the panel. I'd say it's 50-50.

On 5/29/2013 1:11 PM, Bob wrote:
" wrote in
:

On May 29, 9:22 am, Bob wrote:
" wrote
innews:82e78afc
:





On May 27, 8:38 am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59 am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. plus the broiler does not
work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. Use a flashlight
to check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over
it feeling for areas that are very rough. If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or
trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel.
It will have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. If
yo
u
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50
amp fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both
of them
.
That's done for safety reasons.

2. If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should
be visible. Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at
the ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil
selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find
a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going
to the bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. if I
replace that un
it
I should be good to go? I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. But here is the risk. Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else
is wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. It
could have failed on it's own. Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? Also,does the
schematic show the printed board? If you can trace the burned are
a
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where
to look for the problem that caused the burn.

here are photos of the control unit.


I don't see any photos. If you tried to post them directly
here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports
pics.


is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater
but the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?

Yes



even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it
still needs to be replaced, correct?- Hide quoted text -


Yes. The only issue is if that "something else" caused it
and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn
out the new one as soon as you turn it on.


where would i post the photos?
is it also possible that the problem is just in the control panel?


We had our control panel replaced a couple of years ago at about half
the cost of a new unit. DYI would be much cheaper but then earlier this
year we had problems like yours with apparently oven shorting out
someplace else so we bought a new one.