On 5/29/2013 1:11 PM, Bob wrote:
" wrote in
:

On May 29, 9:22 am, Bob wrote:
" wrote
innews:82e78afc
:





On May 27, 8:38 am, "
wrote:
On May 27, 8:59 am, BM BM2home.com wrote:

nestork wrote
innews:nestork.be8070b@di
ybanter.com:

BM;3068654 Wrote:

its not the timer, it is offf. plus the broiler does not
work

Next step:

0. Check the bake element for any spot that appears to be
damaged. When bake elements burn out, it usually happens in a
relatively short area like an inch or two. Use a flashlight
to check for any anomol
ies
along the length of the bake element of run your fingers over
it feeling for areas that are very rough. If you don't find
anything wrong, go on to Step #1.

1. Pull the fuse holder to the stove out of the fuse box or
trip BOTH of it's circuit breakers off in the breaker panel.
It will have TW
O
50 amp circuit breakers, and both of them need to be off. If
yo
u
h
ave
a fuse box, there will be a fuse holder that contains two 50
amp fuse
s
in it so that you can't remove one fuse without removing both
of them
.
That's done for safety reasons.

2. If the stove has a range cord and receptacle, maybe unplug
the stove as well so that you can move it where you have
unfettered acces
s
to the back panel.

3. Remove the screws holding the rear sheet metal cover on the
stove, and remove that cover.

4. The terminals going to the bake element in the oven should
be visible. Look for a burnt off wire there.

5. It's possible, but not likely, that a wire burned off at
the ov
en
temperature control in the console or at the bake/broil
selector switch. So, basically look around everywhere to find
a wire burned off, but it's most likely one of the wires going
to the bake element terminals.

The elements and wires looked fine so i pulled the circuit board
from the control/clock unit and see a big burn mark. if I
replace that un
it
I should be good to go? I hope- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Maybe. But here is the risk. Without the skills to work on
electrical eqpt, you won't be able to figure out if anything else
is wrong.
The correct procedure is to figure out if
anything else is wrong that caused that board to fail. It
could have failed on it's own. Or it could have failed because
something else failed first somewhere else, ie there is a
short that caused an overload and burned up the board.
And if that other problem exists and is still there, the new
board could burn up too. If it was a $25 part, that wouldn't
be so bad. But when you see what a new board actually
costs, you may want to re-evaluate how to proceed. Hell,
when you see what that board costs and depending on the
age of the stove, it might be time for a new stove.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

Can you take a photo of the board and post it? Also,does the
schematic show the printed board? If you can trace the burned are
a
on the board to the actual wiring, that will give you an idea where
to look for the problem that caused the burn.

here are photos of the control unit.


I don't see any photos. If you tried to post them directly
here, you can;t, because it's not a newsgroup that supports
pics.


is it possible that burnout would kill the oven and broiler heater
but the stove top and clock, timer, and all buttons still work?

Yes



even if something caused the control panel to partly burn out it
still needs to be replaced, correct?- Hide quoted text -


Yes. The only issue is if that "something else" caused it
and still exists and you put in a new control panel, you could burn
out the new one as soon as you turn it on.


where would i post the photos?
is it also possible that the problem is just in the control panel?


We had our control panel replaced a couple of years ago at about half
the cost of a new unit. DYI would be much cheaper but then earlier this
year we had problems like yours with apparently oven shorting out
someplace else so we bought a new one.