Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

--
/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
No Good Deed -
Goes Unpunished

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least two
phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here months ago
with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that a diode be
added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention the diode, but
none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

"John Grabowski" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

Neon ?

I've modified buttons putting LEDs in. So far the new ones fail because the
plastics breaks apart cheap junk. Need to find some better buttons. It
might take a bit of talent to find a small led and figure out what size
resistor to use, and cram everything in there. These plastic models I used
had sun uv damage. Obviously need transparent buttons or housings. I don't
even remember what voltage, 24 vac ? I'll do the math later.

Greg

On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce

On Apr 23, 7:55*pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:





Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon..

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He said LED, not neon!!!!

On 4/23/2013 8:18 PM, wrote:
On Apr 23, 7:55 pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
(snipped)

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He said LED, not neon!!!!


I think that he was referring to what John said.

On Apr 23, 9:29*pm, IGot2P wrote:
On 4/23/2013 8:18 PM, wrote:





On Apr 23, 7:55 pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
(snipped)

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He said LED, not neon!!!!

I think that he was referring to what John said.

rather than light the button why not light the area around the button
area? say build it so it lights the lock too.....

use the power of the bell circuit, and diodes are cheap, under a buck
or two and available at radio shack.

one of my favorite purchases is a touch pad door lock, push any button
turns the lights for the buttons, push my choosen code and the door
unlocks. It has a key too, although I havent used it in over a year.

Best 100 buck purchase in years, no fumbling for keys:

On Apr 23, 5:35*pm, "ps56k" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.


geezI never had a liighted buttons bulb burn out.

Your transformer voltage may be too high

On 4/23/2013 7:55 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce


The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch
contacts and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and
the solenoid coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed.
When the button is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD

bob haller wrote:
On Apr 23, 9:29 pm, IGot2P wrote:
On 4/23/2013 8:18 PM, wrote:





On Apr 23, 7:55 pm, "Percival P. Cassidy" wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
(snipped)

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He said LED, not neon!!!!

I think that he was referring to what John said.

rather than light the button why not light the area around the button
area? say build it so it lights the lock too.....

use the power of the bell circuit, and diodes are cheap, under a buck
or two and available at radio shack.

one of my favorite purchases is a touch pad door lock, push any button
turns the lights for the buttons, push my choosen code and the door
unlocks. It has a key too, although I havent used it in over a year.

Best 100 buck purchase in years, no fumbling for keys:

Your using way too much common sense.

I never thought of using a side light, but since I have problems, might
give it a try.
You can put a diode in series with an led to limit dissipation. A value of
1 k to 5k ohms is also needed in series, but needs to be pretty big as it
gets hot. I got long led strip, and each led has it's own resistor, but
very small in physical size. I want to check temperatures. It designed for
12 volts dc. One led at 5-10 ma is plenty bright.

I need to get a touch lock.

Greg

bob haller wrote:
On Apr 23, 5:35 pm, "ps56k" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.


geezI never had a liighted buttons bulb burn out.

Your transformer voltage may be too high

I think you just have good luck or a well designed unit.

Greg

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 4/23/2013 7:55 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce


The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch
contacts and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and
the solenoid coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed.
When the button is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD

90 volts dc. 63 vac will fire the lamp. Temperature and external light
probably affect voltages. Trouble with most indicators, including led, they
try to get too much brightness, shortening life.

Greg

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 02:49:29 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

bob haller wrote:
On Apr 23, 5:35 pm, "ps56k" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.


geezI never had a liighted buttons bulb burn out.

Your transformer voltage may be too high

I think you just have good luck or a well designed unit.

Greg

I don't think I've ever had a button burn out either. I'm on my
second button and the house is 34 years old, but I think the house
came with an unlighted button, so I changed that almost right away,
and after 15 or 20 years, the new button got so weathered the light
didn't show through. (Or maybe it burnt out but it was still after 15
or 20 years.)

I bought the 2nd button at Home Depot. It's just like the first one,
pretty much the cheapest lit button that they sell, other than the
round one that goes almost entirely in the hole. (This is a black
plastic rectangle which sits on top of the wood, with a metal cover
that wraps around the top, front, and bottom, with a white or cream
colored plastic button in the middle**.) . When I put in a doorbell
in the basement, in parallel, I had to put in a bigger transformer, so
I got either 16 or 18v (whichever the bigger doorbell transformer is)
from Home Depot. In other words nothing special.

The OP's voltage may be too high. Maybe the previous owner didn't use
a standard doorbell transformer. Or maybe it's broken.


**Actually all the buttons by the same maker are probably of the same
quality, just the cases are different. I know in 1967 when my car
compass didn't work, I wrote to Airguide, I think the name is, and
asked if I bought a more expensive compass would it work better? And
they wrote back, "No. All the compasses are the same. Only the cases
are different."

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce


The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch contacts
and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and the solenoid
coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed. When the button
is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD


*Thanks TDD. I keep thinking those small bulbs in the buttons are neon.

On 04/23/13 09:29 pm, IGot2P wrote:

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with
neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He said LED, not neon!!!!


I think that he was referring to what John said.

Precisely.

Perce

On Apr 24, 6:28*am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce

The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch contacts
and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and the solenoid
coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed. When the button
is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD

*Thanks TDD. *I keep thinking those small bulbs in the buttons are neon..

neon bulbs even in continious service last nearly forever....

On Wed, 24 Apr 2013 03:16:38 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 4/23/2013 7:55 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 04/23/13 07:48 pm, John Grabowski wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?


*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce


The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch
contacts and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and
the solenoid coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed.
When the button is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD

90 volts dc. 63 vac will fire the lamp. Temperature and external light
probably affect voltages. Trouble with most indicators, including led, they
try to get too much brightness, shortening life.

Um, 63VAC has ~90V peaks. He was right, NE-2s "take at least 90 volts
to fire". Yes, you are also right, in that it is temperature and
(interestingly) external light dependant. The problem is that to save
a fraction of a cent, they're built like crap. I've never had a bulb
fail before the switch, though. I just had one go after less than a
year (plastic button broke, exposing the bulb).

On 4/24/2013 7:26 AM, bob haller wrote:
On Apr 24, 6:28 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular
"illuminated" button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

*They are available, but I would avoid them. I have received at least
two phone calls about problems with them and someone posted on here
months ago with a similar issue. Evidently some door bells require that
a diode be added to the circuit. The button instructions even mention
the diode, but none are offered as an accessory to buy. Stick with neon.

AFAIR, the lowest voltage on which neon lamps will work is 70 or
thereabouts. Door bells typically operate on a far lower voltage.

Perce

The standard NE-2 neon lamp takes at least 90 volts to fire and most
doorbells operate on 16 volts AC. The standard lighted doorbell button
has a simple low voltage incandescent lamp parallel to the switch contacts
and it lights due to the small current flowing through it and the solenoid
coil of the doorbell as long as the button is not pressed. When the button
is pushed, the full current goes to the doorbell making
it ring. ^_^

TDD

*Thanks TDD. I keep thinking those small bulbs in the buttons are neon.

neon bulbs even in continious service last nearly forever....


I see gear older than me with a sad little neon pilot light barely
flickering but it's lit. ^_^

TDD

On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg

I didn't know that. I thought it was needed on AC power.
Now that you mention it, I worked on a set of xmas LED lights and never
saw a diode either.

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg

I didn't know that. I thought it was needed on AC power.
Now that you mention it, I worked on a set of xmas LED lights and never
saw a diode either.

The Xmas lights might not ever go reverse current because I'm pretty sure
it's higher than forward voltage to conduct. I don't like the look of
blinkys. A bridge rectifier would double the frequency.

Greg

gregz wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg

I didn't know that. I thought it was needed on AC power.
Now that you mention it, I worked on a set of xmas LED lights and never
saw a diode either.

The Xmas lights might not ever go reverse current because I'm pretty sure
it's higher than forward voltage to conduct. I don't like the look of
blinkys. A bridge rectifier would double the frequency.

Greg

I would not just add a bridge without testing. The LEDs might get too hot.

Greg

On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast. They won't take more than five or ten volts
reverse.

On 4/24/2013 10:07 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast. They won't take more than five or ten volts
reverse.


I thought a regular 5mm red LED used 2 volts DC at around 30ma. A small
switching diode rated at around 50 volts DC and a suitable resistor to
limit the current with everything in series with the LED should work
across the doorbell button since it's working as a simple continuity
indicator across an open switch but in series with the doorbell and
power transformer. ^_^

TDD

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast. They won't take more than five or ten volts
reverse.

A diode prevents the reverse entirely. I should have said limits to only
forward direction.

Going into reverse could be fatal IF current was not limited. There is
usually a current limiting resistor in series.

Greg

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 4/24/2013 10:07 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast. They won't take more than five or ten volts
reverse.


I thought a regular 5mm red LED used 2 volts DC at around 30ma. A small
switching diode rated at around 50 volts DC and a suitable resistor to
limit the current with everything in series with the LED should work
across the doorbell button since it's working as a simple continuity
indicator across an open switch but in series with the doorbell and power transformer. ^_^

TDD

Right, but 30 ma can be too bright with current LEDs. The very large LEDs
which can take amps, are surprisingly bright at less than 50 ma. These have
higher forward voltage levels,2-4 volts.

Greg

On 4/23/2013 5:35 PM, ps56k wrote:


Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?



Go to Amazon.com and search for led doorbell button

On 4/24/2013 11:38 PM, gregz wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 4/24/2013 10:07 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). 3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast. They won't take more than five or ten volts
reverse.


I thought a regular 5mm red LED used 2 volts DC at around 30ma. A small
switching diode rated at around 50 volts DC and a suitable resistor to
limit the current with everything in series with the LED should work
across the doorbell button since it's working as a simple continuity
indicator across an open switch but in series with the doorbell and power transformer. ^_^

TDD

Right, but 30 ma can be too bright with current LEDs. The very large LEDs
which can take amps, are surprisingly bright at less than 50 ma. These have
higher forward voltage levels,2-4 volts.

Greg


Years ago I was building remote trouble annunciators for the Generac
power systems I was installing and I was using the new (back then) 10mm
super bright LED's I picked up from Radio Shack. I put the big LED in
series with a 5 volt DC 5mm red blinking LED and in series, the current
draw was within limits at 12 volts DC. You can see the light from the
big red LED flashing on the opposite wall of a garage. The annunciator
goes off when the genset trouble output goes active. You can push the
silence button to stop the noise but the big red flashing LED is
obnoxious enough that you don't forget to call for service. I actually
got a call a few years ago from a service guy who was working on one I
installed 15 years earlier. ^_^

TDD

On 04/24/2013 06:06 PM, wrote:

[snip]

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. Wiring
a LED would be simple. Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC,

LEDs are diodes. Why do you need another? If you're thinking of the LED
reverse breakdown voltage, the LED won't be damaged unless there's too
much current through it (the resistor prevents that).

then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size),

It should be safe to design for 20mA current through the LED. A 1K (or a
little lower) .5W resistor should work. Current also needs to be too low
to operate the bell.

and of course the LED itself (probably
white).

BTW, there are no REAL white LEDs (there's no single "white" frequency).
What's there is often a combination of blue and yellow (the combination
looks white).

3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

off-topic:

Did you ever see a LED light that worked without a series resistor?
There's one is some very small flashlights. It just has a LED and a
coin-cell. The "switch" pushes the LED leads together over the battery.
The battery's "resistance" limits current.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 04/24/2013 07:35 PM, gregz wrote:

[snip]

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg


Nice for what? The resistor limits current in both directions, to a safe
level.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 04/24/2013 08:37 PM, wrote:

I didn't know that. I thought it was needed on AC power.
Now that you mention it, I worked on a set of xmas LED lights and never
saw a diode either.


For xmas LED lights, the series I've seen have 25, 30, or 35 LEDs.
Longer strings have multiple series, in different polarities. These have
diodes. That's what LEDs are.

However, some LED strings seem to have full-wave rectifiers (4 diodes)
in them, in addition to the LEDs.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 04/24/2013 09:38 PM, gregz wrote:

[snip]

The Xmas lights might not ever go reverse current because I'm pretty sure
it's higher than forward voltage to conduct. I don't like the look of
blinkys. A bridge rectifier would double the frequency.

Greg



Maybe not.

AFAIK, the reverse threshold (voltage that must be reached for a diode
to conduct) is usually higher (AFAIK) than the forward voltage.

If there is ever any reverse current, it'll be too small to be concerned
about.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 04/24/2013 09:42 PM, gregz wrote:

I would not just add a bridge without testing.

A bridge would increase the efficiency a little. Probable too little to
be concerned about here. If you do use one, consider that it adds an
about 1.4V voltage drop.

I wouldn't use a bridge here, because of the increased complexity and
reduced reliability.

The LEDs might get too hot.


Unlikely unless current was excessive (resistor too small).

BTW, I have (accidentally) connected 12V (1.5A supply) to a LED without
a resistor. It popped and split in half immediately.

Greg



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 4/25/2013 1:46 PM, Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 04/24/2013 09:42 PM, gregz wrote:

I would not just add a bridge without testing.

A bridge would increase the efficiency a little. Probable too little to
be concerned about here. If you do use one, consider that it adds an
about 1.4V voltage drop.

I wouldn't use a bridge here, because of the increased complexity and
reduced reliability.

The LEDs might get too hot.


Unlikely unless current was excessive (resistor too small).

BTW, I have (accidentally) connected 12V (1.5A supply) to a LED without
a resistor. It popped and split in half immediately.


Terrorist! LED's everywhere are in fear for their lives. ^_^

TDD

On 04/24/2013 10:07 PM, wrote:

[snip]

How does a diode "limit current"? Without an anti-parallel diode, an
LED will be toast.

IIRC, I made that assumption once. That's when I knew very little about
diodes. A diode (and LEDs are diodes) is a voltage regulator. The
voltage across a diode will never be higher than its threshold voltage.
This is true both in the forward and reverse directions. It would try to
draw infinite current without a series resistor. As long as you use a
suitable resistor, it WON'T be toast.

For one LED I have:

forward voltage: 2V
reverse voltage: 4V
maximum current: 30mA

I have this on a 16V supply (doorbell), with a 500-ohm resistor.

When LED is forward-biased, current is 28mA (16V - 2V / 500 ohm). It lights.
When LED is reverse-biased, current is 24mA (16V - 4V / 500 ohm). No
light this way.


The anti-parallel diode actually does (minor) harm here by causing the
circuit to draw even more current when the LED is off (by replacing the
4V LED voltage with the .7V drop of an ordinary diode).

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

On 04/24/2013 11:34 PM, gregz wrote:

[snip]


Going into reverse could be fatal IF current was not limited. There is
usually a current limiting resistor in series.

Greg


Of course thats just as true for forward. A diode is like a resistor
that's infinite at voltages below the threshold, and 0 at the threshold
(there's no above, since the diode is a voltage regulator).

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"Jesus loves the little zygotes All the zygotes in the world Jesus gives
them birth defects Missing fingers, crooked necks Jesus loves the little
zygotes of the world" [Frank Zindler]

Mark Lloyd wrote:
On 04/24/2013 07:35 PM, gregz wrote:

[snip]

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg


Nice for what? The resistor limits current in both directions, to a safe level.


So you can get maximum brightness without overheating. Eliminating reverse
current. When the led pulses, there is a new maximum current capability,
instead of average capability.

Greg

On 4/23/2013 5:35 PM, ps56k wrote:
Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

http://www.craftmade.com/sound/group/25

On Apr 24, 8:37*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2013 00:35:46 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:





wrote:
On Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:35:10 -0500, "ps56k"
wrote:

Our doorbell is the standard one with the small rectangular "illuminated"
button,
that is screwed to the door frame.
Every so often, usually just prior to Halloween
I go out and replace the button - as the tiny bulb has burned out.

Wonder if there are any LED style replacements ?
I had seen some comments on an electronics forum
about how you might contruct one -
but was curious if any retail versions existed ?

If they dont sell them, find one where you can access the bulb. *Wiring
a LED would be simple. *Your doorbells are usually running off a 24v AC
transformer. *So, you'd need a diode to convert to DC, then a suitable
resistor (someone on one of the electronics newsgroups could help with
selecting the right size), and of course the LED itself (probably
white). *3 parts, and a little solder, and you'll have a LED lighted
doorbell.

To wire it, one power lead goes to the diode, then to the resistor, and
to the LED. *The other lead on the LED goes right to the power wire.
Polarity of the LED and diode are important. *There are likely lots of
simple circuits for them on the web. *Or buy it at Radio Shack and there
will be a wiring diagram on the package.

It's nice to include a diode, which limits current in one direction, and
also stops reverse current, but it will work without diode. Done it many
times.

Greg

I didn't know that. *I thought it was needed on AC power.
Now that you mention it, I worked on a set of xmas LED lights and never
saw a diode either.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

They put a diode and/or a resistor in a little lump somewhere in the
power cord or in the string of lites itself.