On 07/03/2013 21:46, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


This is a piece of Pee.....

I was drilling stainless steel today. 20 holes exactly in 3mm think 304
Stainless steel.

You need cobalt drills. Screwfix do a set for 35 quid upwards

You *MUST* use a slow speed

You *MUST* use a cutting fluid

If you don't drill slow and use cutting fluid, the drill bit glows red
hot at the tip and the stianless steel literally hardens under the drill
bit.

On 06/03/2013 21:07, Stephen H wrote:
On 07/03/2013 21:46, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


This is a piece of Pee.....

I was drilling stainless steel today. 20 holes exactly in 3mm think 304
Stainless steel.

You need cobalt drills. Screwfix do a set for 35 quid upwards

You *MUST* use a slow speed

You *MUST* use a cutting fluid

If you don't drill slow and use cutting fluid, the drill bit glows red
hot at the tip and the stianless steel literally hardens under the drill
bit.

and the drill bit will go blunt when trying to drill through the work
hardened stainless steel.....

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

On 3/7/2013 2:46 PM, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


1st, you don't have a Ti drill bit. you may have a TiN coated drill bit.
the TiN isn't to make it stronger or sharper, it's to make it look
better, for the most part.

you probably want a cobalt drill bit.

2nd, you probably want to google this question. there are plenty of
resources on the net on how to do this.

On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface. Use the right cutting fluid and a slow-ish drill
speed.

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 16:58:09 -0500, Rich Webb wrote:

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface.

I didn't get any further than the punch mark with the titanium
coated drill bit, even after 10 minutes of trying:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362162.jpg

I'm certainly not an expert. Looks like you're using a drill press, and
small vise, which is good. I wonder, if you rough up the area with a corner
of a bench grinder wheel, that might help. Might not.

You might have better luck with a clamp, or some heat shrink tubing to
attach the loop.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 17:16:32 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You might have better luck with a clamp, or some heat shrink
tubing to attach the loop.

Indeed. If there was some other way to hang it by the tail,
I would.

On Mar 7, 4:46*pm, "Danny D." wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Aren't you worried about voiding the warranty?

In sci.electronics.repair Danny D. wrote:
On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 16:58:09 -0500, Rich Webb wrote:

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface.

I didn't get any further than the punch mark with the titanium
coated drill bit, even after 10 minutes of trying:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362162.jpg

I'd love to see what's left of that drill bit.

You might be able to make a loop shaped like a U. Make the long part of the
U, a couple inches long. Slip that over the shaft, and heat shrink tubing
over the U and the shaft. The Home Depot near me has heat shrink tubing in
the electrical section near wire nuts. Harbor Freight has it, in the box
parts section, along with screws, cotter pins, and such.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 17:16:32 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You might have better luck with a clamp, or some heat shrink
tubing to attach the loop.

Indeed. If there was some other way to hang it by the tail,
I would.

Wonder if a welding shop can weld it? Probably for more than the item costs.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Danny D." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 17:16:32 -0500, Stormin Mormon wrote:

You might have better luck with a clamp, or some heat shrink
tubing to attach the loop.

Indeed. If there was some other way to hang it by the tail,
I would.

On 3/7/2013 3:46 PM, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


I had to drill some stainless steel so I purchased a small set of Cobalt
Silver & Deming Drill Bits and used Tap Magic cutting fluid.
I've had to drill all sorts of stainless steel when servicing restaurant
equipment. ^_^

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Cobalt-Si.../dp/B000IEXA8W

http://www.tapmagic.com/

TDD

"Danny D."

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface.

I didn't get any further than the punch mark


** Using a punch work hardens the metal.

Maybe file a flat instead, then fit the drill bit way up in the chuck and
try again.

Slowly and with some oil.


.... Phil

On Thursday, March 7, 2013 1:46:00 PM UTC-8, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?



From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.



So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can

opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).



Nope!



I can't make a dent!

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg



What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Experience....

Opener already has a hole in it...use it.

Rich Webb Inscribed thus:

On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless
steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface. Use the right cutting fluid and a slow-ish drill
speed.

And a carbide drill ! You can buy ones specifically ground for
stainless and other hard to machine materials.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

"Danny D." wrote in news:khb1qo$tao$4
@news.albasani.net:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?



Industrial quality drill. The consumer ones are all a piece of sh*t.

On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 11:14:23 +1100, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


"Danny D."

Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface.

I didn't get any further than the punch mark


** Using a punch work hardens the metal.

Maybe file a flat instead, then fit the drill bit way up in the chuck and
try again.

Good point there. I too often myself default to chucking the bit at
the end of the flutes rather than down towards the work.

Slowly and with some oil.

Machinery's Handbook recommends "Stainless Steel: ... Broaching,
threading, drilling, and reaming produce best results using a
sulfochlorinated mineral-fatty oil" which, unfortunately, exceeds my
knowledge of the subject.

Just thinking out loud, could you anneal it with a torch before drilling?

On Thursday, March 7, 2013 4:46:00 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?



From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.



So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can

opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).



Nope!



I can't make a dent!

http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg



What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Since it's steel, could you mount a magnet somewhere and just stick it to the magnet?

On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?
From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

Titanium is nice, but it's the steel under it that makes the
difference. Use cheaper cobalt drill bits instead. Be prepared to
re-sharpen the drill quite often. You can also use a carbide tip bit,
which is even harder than cobalt steel. A concrete drill with carbide
inserts might work if you keep it cool. Unless you're really careful,
and have the parts bolted down very well, the slightest bit of side
play will break the carbide drill.

Feeds and speeds:
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drills-speeds.htm

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

It's probably work hardened stainless 300 series stainless. Find a
magnet and see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will
be slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1140

The last time I had to drill through work hardened stainless, I
destroyed two small drills getting a start. So, I took a piece of
hard steel drill rod, with a squared off end, dumped some carborundum
abrasive compound into the hole, and intermittently ground my way
through the hardened stainless. You can go through glass with that
technique. I don't recommend doing this as it took forever and I had
to grind flat and reharden the drill rod every time it got hot, but
eventually, I had a hole.

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg
What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Ummm... this doesn't really belong in sci.electronics.repair.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?
Greetings Danny,
For the best outcome you need to use the best drill bits available to
you, cutting oil, low RPM, and high pressure. If you can get cobalt
drills then get them. I noticed that my local hardware store is now
selling split point drills. If your store carries these then use one.
They also probably sell "Threading Oil". Get a small can of that. If
the store cuts to length and threads pipe then maybe you can talk them
out of a couple ounces of the oil they use in their threading machine.
Get the dark threading/cutting oil. It will have sulfur in it which is
a good high pressure additive. Don't make the mistake of using motor
oil. A good cutting speed for a 1/8 drill is about 700 RPM. Keep the
pressure on the drill so that it is constantly making a chip. If the
drill stops cutting the SS will work harden which just makes it that
much harder to drill. When you feel the drill start to break out of
the back side of the part ease up on the pressure so that the drill
bit doesn't break. It would be good if you can back up the part with a
piece of mild steel or aluminum. This will help by keeping the drill
bit from feeding too fast and breaking when it exits the back side of
the work.
Eric

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?
From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

Titanium is nice, but it's the steel under it that makes the
difference. Use cheaper cobalt drill bits instead. Be prepared to
re-sharpen the drill quite often. You can also use a carbide tip bit,
which is even harder than cobalt steel. A concrete drill with carbide
inserts might work if you keep it cool. Unless you're really careful,
and have the parts bolted down very well, the slightest bit of side
play will break the carbide drill.

Feeds and speeds:
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drills-speeds.htm

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

It's probably work hardened stainless 300 series stainless. Find a
magnet and see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will
be slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).

http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=1140

The last time I had to drill through work hardened stainless, I
destroyed two small drills getting a start. So, I took a piece of
hard steel drill rod, with a squared off end, dumped some carborundum
abrasive compound into the hole, and intermittently ground my way
through the hardened stainless. You can go through glass with that
technique. I don't recommend doing this as it took forever and I had
to grind flat and reharden the drill rod every time it got hot, but
eventually, I had a hole.

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg
What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Ummm... this doesn't really belong in sci.electronics.repair.


Rodman drill bits was showing at a convention I was at. Some pretty
incredible claims, but he was doing some incredible demonstrating over there
just poking goodly sized holes in a variety of metals.

Anyone heard of/used Rodman stuff? Are they even in business?

Steve

"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

On 2013-03-07, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal working
group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or lawmower.
Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that drill bit
WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill bit cool as
it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the material and
drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter and drill size,
the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/ht...speedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in, constant
presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's can be a
good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should see chips
ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are not
cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the hole/drill
while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add fluid with
left hand while right hand works the drill press handle. Light
colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure. VERY
DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed too
fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER stop
the drill motor with drill in the hole or while drilling/cutting. It
will break that carbide bit instantly, gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched!

nb

" one big boob"

A lotta bad advice from this group.


** Nope - just from you ****head.,


As an ex machinist,


** Got fired for incompetence did you ?


And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS.

** Fraid it almost certainly will.


Work hardening is caused by the heat...


** ROTFL

Work hardening = hardening by "cold working".

Something most of the stainless steels are FAMOUS for.

******.



.... Phil

On 2013-03-08, Steve B wrote:

Anyone heard of/used Rodman stuff? Are they even in business?

JUNK!

http://www.rodmanandcoinc.com/rodman...2.html?UCIDs=1

First, they are what we called "brass bits". This is cuz they are
ground with a reverse relief angle on the cutting edge. Rodman
calls it "special negative back grinding". Bottom line, it purposely
dulls the drill bit by preventing a good sharp cutting action, which
is how a drill bit works. But, on some metals and plastics, a sharp
cutting edge is not good. It can violently grab the material and rip
it out of yer hands or a not-so-secure clamp and/or sometimes breaks
or crack the material. Brass and plexiglass are good examples.
Gotta use brass bits, or yer gonna bleed. Rodman bits might be good
for those two materials and probably wood. Useless for drilling steel
or alum.

The other giveaway? "Chrome Vanadium Steel" Any metal drill bit made
of CVS is a piece of crap. Probably great on wood, but will be dull
junk before it drills its 2nd metal hole. You want HSS (high speed
steel) drill bits. Nothing less for metal work.

nb

On 3/8/2013 5:48 AM, notbob wrote:
On 2013-03-07, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless
steel?

A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal
working group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or
lawmower. Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that
drill bit WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill
bit cool as it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the
material and drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter
and drill size, the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/ht...speedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in,
constant presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's
can be a good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should
see chips ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are
not cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the
hole/drill while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add
fluid with left hand while right hand works the drill press handle.
Light colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure.
VERY DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed
too fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER
stop the drill motor with drill in the hole or while
drilling/cutting. It will break that carbide bit instantly,
gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched!

nb



I use Tap Magic cutting fluid. I bought a a couple of small cans of two
different formulas which served me for years before I needed to buy
more. The great thing about their product is the fact that it clings to
the bit and will stay put so using a lot is not necessary. I've used it
when cutting/drilling in different metals including stainless steel. Oh
yea, it makes cutting threads into metal a lot easier too. ^_^

http://www.tapmagic.com/

http://www.tapmagic.com/TMthick.htm

TDD

On Mar 7, 10:08*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Greetings Danny,
For the best outcome you need to use the best drill bits available to
you, cutting oil, low RPM, and high pressure. If you can get cobalt
drills then get them. I noticed that my local hardware store is now
selling split point drills. If your store carries these then use one.
They also probably sell "Threading Oil". Get a small can of that. If
the store cuts to length and threads pipe then maybe you can talk them
out of a couple ounces of the oil they use in their threading machine.
Get the dark threading/cutting oil. It will have sulfur in it which is
a good high pressure additive. Don't make the mistake of using motor
oil. A good cutting speed for a 1/8 drill is about 700 RPM. Keep the
pressure on the drill so that it is constantly making a chip. If the
drill stops cutting the SS will work harden which just makes it that
much harder to drill.

Yes, That's my experience, slow and steady and make sure the bit is
always cutting!

George H.

When you feel the drill start to break out of
the back side of the part ease up on the pressure so that the drill
bit doesn't break. It would be good if you can back up the part with a
piece of mild steel or aluminum. This will help by keeping the drill
bit from feeding too fast and breaking when it exits the back side of
the work.
Eric

On Mar 8, 1:30*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

* *news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.

Stan

On Mar 8, 2:30*am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
*http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

* *news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.

On 3/8/2013 7:50 AM, Denis G. wrote:
On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.

I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the ****er.

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 17:03:12 -0800, DD_BobK wrote:

Opener already has a hole in it...use it.

The hole is in the business end, so you can't use it.

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 18:33:43 -0800, Pavel314 wrote:

Since it's steel, could you mount a magnet somewhere and just stick it
to the magnet?

Is stainless steel magnetic?

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 19:08:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will be
slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).

Hi Jeff,
Interesting diagnostics. The flat part (where I don't want to
attach a cord) is slightly magnetic. The cylindrical handle
(where I do want to drill) is not magnetic at all.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12366090.jpg

I had not realized how hard stainless steel is!

"Charles LeMaire" wrote in message
. ..
On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 18:33:43 -0800, Pavel314 wrote:

Since it's steel, could you mount a magnet somewhere and just stick it
to the magnet?

Is stainless steel magnetic?


Some is , some is not.

"Denis G." wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless
steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill
bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel
can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

-I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
-drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
-can remove any discoloration with polishing.

Can openers are hard enough to keep their edge while puncturing steel
cans, such as tomato juice comes in..
http://www.metalsuppliersonline.com/...ypages/302.asp
"Cold working will dramatically increase the hardness of this
material,"

I've seen tensile strength listed as high as 200,000 PSI for Type 302
used for pallet strapping.

You could hang the can opener by a Prusik loop of fancy boot lacing
etc around the middle:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik

This knot survives handling better than a square knot:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisherman's_knot

If you use braided Nylon cord you can melt and fuse the ends of the
loop and roll the warm joint flush so it nearly disappears.
jsw

"Delvin Benet" ýt wrote in message
.. .

I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the ****er.

You just don't understand the self-reliant philosophy of R.C.M., do
you?

On Fri, 08 Mar 2013 07:27:30 -0800, Stanley Schaefer wrote:

That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.

Yeah, it's a doozie (for a can opener)!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12366196.jpg

I bought it at Bed Bath & Beyond for $4, hoping to lanyard it
outside. It's too smooth to just tie a cord around the handle.

And, it's not magnetic & therefore very hard to drill with
my vanadium-coated (brass color) steel drill bits:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12366090.jpg

On 3/8/2013 3:30 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)



Persoanlly, I drill small holes first. Then I enlarge the holes to the
proper size with a larger "bit".

I simply put some motor oil on the area to keep the tooling cool (mega
important) and if I'm using my at home drill press, I follow this chart
for RPM rates:

http://www.drill-hq.com/?page_id=785 or
http://www.multi-drill.com/drill-speed-chart.htm

#1 important thing to do is use oil or something similar to lubricate
and cool the tooling. Otherwise you run into all types of issues.

Much success.

--
http://tinyurl.com/My-Official-Response

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
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