I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20


I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and
drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.
Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the
extensions.

BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;
perfect for wiring.

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:



I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):



http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html



or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.



http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20





I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.



BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

On Feb 23, 9:09*pm, wrote:
On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...nch-right-angl....

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. *My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.

BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-28-4011

wrote in
:

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud,

Operator error

spade bits brake after two or three studs

You *break* spade bits?? Yeah, right. Either you buy the crappiest bits in the known universe,
or -- more likely IMHO -- you're just lying.

metal twist bits work but I
can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit
has.

So use a 1" spade bit.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:



I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):



http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html



or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.



http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20





I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.



BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

I've *never* had an auger get stuck. I have had to reverse the bit if
the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded
drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). No big
deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.

You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.

On Feb 23, 8:57*pm, wrote:
I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...nch-right-angl...

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

Take a look at Rockwell's 3rill.
3R62HARD3P 62pc 3RILL
with lifetime batteries.
Came with two batteries, I swap while working and could never run out
of battery during heavy work load, the batteries just recharge too
fast.
It came with a right angle widget, which has around 1 inch 'overhead'
You can drill in some really tight spaces with it. Has extensions, too
so you can reach through multiple studs/joists. The 1 inch blade I've
used several times on studs even almost on a knot with little chatter
just required a bit of patience going through the hard area.

My wife got it for me as a birthday present for using on drywall
screws, but the thing works so well I keep expanding where I use it.

On Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:14:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST),

wrote:



On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),



wrote:







I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):







http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html







or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I canï¿ 1/2 t make-up my mind.







http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20











I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and



drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.



Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the



extensions.







BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;



perfect for wiring.



Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can t find a bit extension for a 1/2 shank which is what a 1 bit has.



I've *never* had an auger get stuck. I have had to reverse the bit if

the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded

drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). No big

deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.



You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

On Feb 24, 9:28*am, wrote:
On Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:14:15 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...nch-right-angl...

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I canï¿ 1/2 t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. *My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.

BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can t find a bit extension for a 1/2 *shank which is what a 1 *bit has.

I've *never* had an auger get stuck. *I have had to reverse the bit if

the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded

drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). *No big

deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.

You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

I lived and worked on our home built circa 1906 from hand cut lumber
and true 2 x 4's. I never ran across wood that 'petrified' I did run
across finishes that defied removal! Not sandpaper, not chemicals,
NOTHING touched it! Well a gallon of stripper per 5 ft square kind of
touched it.

However, be EXTREMELY careful. That old wood burns like gunpowder.

PS: My 'trick' is to rock the blade drill around so it can easily cut
smaller areas of wood. The hole won't be seen so the weird shape
doesn't matter much.

wrote in news:7ae2e8d7-a233-4d0a-b5b9-
:


I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.

There is no such thing. Redwood is one of the *least* dense woods in North America.

It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Yeah, sure. You're breaking spade bits in redwood. GMAFB.

On 2/24/2013 10:14 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:



I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html
or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20


I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.



BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.
Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.
I've *never* had an auger get stuck. I have had to reverse the bit if
the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded
drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). No big
deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.

You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.
I've gotten them stuck. If it's a really thick beam, the worm pulls the
bit in to a point where it gets stuck, generally from lack of power in
the right angle drill, then I can't back it out because too much
material is behind the bit. I prefer to use a sharp spade bit. Dewalt
makes some really heavy duty ones, unlike Irwin. This way I can take
smaller bites and pull the material out of the hole. He could also use a
Forstner bit.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 16:14:26 -0500, RBM wrote:

On 2/24/2013 10:14 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 21:09:22 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:



I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):
http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html
or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20


I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.



BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.
Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.
I've *never* had an auger get stuck. I have had to reverse the bit if
the drill I was using didn't have enough power (I rarely use a corded
drill and my smaller drills don't have all that much torque). No big
deal, just back it off a little and start at it again.

You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.
I've gotten them stuck. If it's a really thick beam, the worm pulls the
bit in to a point where it gets stuck, generally from lack of power in
the right angle drill, then I can't back it out because too much
material is behind the bit. I prefer to use a sharp spade bit. Dewalt
makes some really heavy duty ones, unlike Irwin. This way I can take
smaller bites and pull the material out of the hole. He could also use a
Forstner bit.

Since I got the Irwin Speedbors I haven't used a spade bit (though I
have many)[*]. They dull too quickly and are a PITA when working at
odd angles. I've never gotten one *stuck*, as in permanently. Sure
they get chips wedged behind them, if you're not careful. Sometimes
it may take 30 seconds to get one out. I don't call that "stuck".
It's worth it for the ease of drilling. The extensions make it an
even better solution (thought spades would work the same).

I don't see how a Forstner bit won't clear any better than an
auger/speedbor.
[*]I loaned my set to the guy installing our satellite system and he
was duly impressed. He said he was stopping by the Borg on the way
home to buy a set.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 08:28:56 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Gosh. You must be special. My bed is solid California Redwood. Now
how did they get all the intricate details; acorns, leaves and
clusters in the wood?

A router bit for petrified wood?

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:46:08 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 08:28:56 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Gosh. You must be special. My bed is solid California Redwood. Now
how did they get all the intricate details; acorns, leaves and
clusters in the wood?


er, California Red Oak...

A router bit for petrified wood?

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:46:08 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 08:28:56 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Gosh. You must be special. My bed is solid California Redwood. Now
how did they get all the intricate details; acorns, leaves and
clusters in the wood?

A router bit for petrified wood?

You've never seen a grave marker? ;-)

http://www.vermonter.com/hopecemetery-photos.asp

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 18:25:21 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:46:08 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 08:28:56 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Gosh. You must be special. My bed is solid California Redwood. Now
how did they get all the intricate details; acorns, leaves and
clusters in the wood?

A router bit for petrified wood?

You've never seen a grave marker? ;-)

http://www.vermonter.com/hopecemetery-photos.asp

Benjamin Franklin would be proud to have one that fancy. Today one can
hardly read his grave stone. ...just sayin'

I'd be thinking high speed, very low feed pressure. And pull the drill out
frequently to clear the flutes, and keep the bit from over heating. Maybe
compressor and air blow gun to clear the holes every few seconds as you go.

If it's a one house project, buy the HF cheapie drill. If you will use the
same drill for several years, get the more expensive one.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...


You must be some animal if you're breaking bits.

I have to work with very old, very dry,
very dense California Redwood.
It's almost like drilling through petrified wood.

Rocking a hole saw also makes a wider
groove. Which makes removing the plug
from the hole saw a lot easier. BTDT.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...

PS: My 'trick' is to rock the blade drill around so it can easily cut
smaller areas of wood. The hole won't be seen so the weird shape
doesn't matter much.

DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 23, 9:09 pm, wrote:
On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...nch-right-angl...

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity.

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.

BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-28-4011


Uh, those all seem to be made to fit a 7/16" inch shank.

You're going to need a lot of KY Jelly to force the 1/2" shank the OP
says he has into one of those. G

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Feb 25, 7:06*am, jeff_wisnia wrote:
DD_BobK wrote:
On Feb 23, 9:09 pm, wrote:
On Saturday, February 23, 2013 8:40:16 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 19:57:19 -0800 (PST),

wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...nch-right-angl....

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can�t make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I found that a regular drill and extensions work well. *My bits and

drill will easily fit between the studs of a normal 14.5" wall cavity..

Where it's closer, I drill from the next one over and use the

extensions.

BTW, Irwin makes some really nice auger bits with fairly short shanks;

perfect for wiring.

Auger or speedbor bits bind and get stuck in the stud, spade bits brake after two or three studs, metal twist bits work but I can’t find a bit extension for a ½” shank which is what a 1” bit has.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-28-4011

Uh, those all seem to be made to fit a 7/16" inch shank.

You're going to need a lot of KY Jelly to force the 1/2" shank the OP
says he has into one of those. G

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Jeff-

Unless Milwaukee has changed the geometry of their drill extensions
over the last 25 years.......
I happen to have a couple of these drill extensions & they work just
fine with large diameter twist drills with 1/2" turned down round
shanks.

The description in the Milwaukee online catalog is less than 100%
clear but my extensions have 7/16" hex on the input end and a ~1/2"
diameter hole on the end that accepts the drill bits...

The reason (I believe) that Milwaukee fixates on 7/16" dimension is
because their auger bits & hole saw arbors are 7/16" hex.
Some mfrs of turned down drill bits make 1/2" diameter round shanks,
some 7/16 hex, some a hybrid.

A 7/16" hex is ~1/2" over the hex points......

Unless my style of extension has been obsoleted, these should work
just fine.

check my work?


cheers
Bob

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:57:19 PM UTC-8, wrote:
I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2" Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00 (more if I get the extended warranty):



http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html



or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00. Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.



http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I bought the Milwaukee.
It went through the studs like butter.
I also bought the three year extended warranty for $60.00.
I didn’t trust the Chinese to do a proper job.
Now I have a eight year warranty which lets me sleep at night.
I figured $349.00 + $60.00 + $31.41 tax = $440.41 / 8 years = $55.05 a year

writes:

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:57:19 PM UTC-8, wrote:
I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2"
Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00
(more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00.
Since they are now both made in China I cant make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I bought the Milwaukee.
It went through the studs like butter.
I also bought the three year extended warranty for $60.00.

You bought insurance to protect yourself from a $349 loss?

I didnt trust the Chinese to do a proper job.
Now I have a eight year warranty which lets me sleep at night.

You can't sleep at night because you might have an unplanned $349 loss?

I figured $349.00 + $60.00 + $31.41 tax = $440.41 / 8 years = $55.05 a year

Extended warranties are calculated by insurance companies to make a
profit - for the insurance company.

When I worked at an insurance company they explained that insurance is
not gambling. Don't buy it expecting to make a profit. Buy insurance
when you can't afford the loss.

--
Dan Espen

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:28:18 AM UTC-8, net cop wrote:
writes:



On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:57:19 PM UTC-8, wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2"

Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00

(more if I get the extended warranty):



http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html



or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00.

Since they are now both made in China I can’t make-up my mind.



http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20



I bought the Milwaukee.

It went through the studs like butter.

I also bought the three year extended warranty for $60.00.



You bought insurance to protect yourself from a $349 loss?



I didn’t trust the Chinese to do a proper job.

Now I have a eight year warranty which lets me sleep at night.



You can't sleep at night because you might have an unplanned $349 loss?



I figured $349.00 + $60.00 + $31.41 tax = $440.41 / 8 years = $55.05 a year



Extended warranties are calculated by insurance companies to make a

profit - for the insurance company.



When I worked at an insurance company they explained that insurance is

not gambling. Don't buy it expecting to make a profit. Buy insurance

when you can't afford the loss.



--

Dan Espen

The last extended warranty that I bought was for my laptop.
Since Moore’s law has stalled it has paid me three times
the cost of the original computer so far
and I still have two more years to go.
This "Made in China" for Milwaukee is a new development.
I expect the worst.

writes:

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 9:28:18 AM UTC-8, net cop wrote:
writes:



On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:57:19 PM UTC-8, wrote:

I am trying to decide between the Harbor Freight 1/2"
Compact 2-Speed Right Angle Drill for $124.00
(more if I get the extended warranty):

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact...ill-97622.html

or the Milwaukee 1/2" Super Hawg for $349.00.
Since they are now both made in China I cant make-up my mind.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/1680-20

I bought the Milwaukee.
It went through the studs like butter.
I also bought the three year extended warranty for $60.00.

You bought insurance to protect yourself from a $349 loss?

I didnt trust the Chinese to do a proper job.
Now I have a eight year warranty which lets me sleep at night.

You can't sleep at night because you might have an unplanned $349 loss?

I figured $349.00 + $60.00 + $31.41 tax = $440.41 / 8 years = $55.05 a year

Extended warranties are calculated by insurance companies to make a
profit - for the insurance company.

When I worked at an insurance company they explained that insurance is
not gambling. Don't buy it expecting to make a profit. Buy insurance
when you can't afford the loss.

The last extended warranty that I bought was for my laptop.
Since Moores law has stalled it has paid me three times
the cost of the original computer so far
and I still have two more years to go.

They say the plural of anecdote is not data.

A laptop might go for 2K.
Something a lot of people might want to insure.

This "Made in China" for Milwaukee is a new development.
I expect the worst.

Well, good luck with the tool.
Not sure if you'll be happier if it breaks or not,
but good luck.

--
Dan Espen