OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but
a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put
the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating
the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F

In article , "Mr
Fizzion" ne says...
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist
(don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but
a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put
the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating
the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F


Notches are structurally less sound and should really be used as a last
resort IMO.

Can you shorten the (chuck end) of the drill bit if its marginal. I am
guessing the hole needs to be a max of say 3" deep so that's how much is
needed protruding???

Or one of those 3d bits which you can start off at an angle and the
curve in between the joists as the depth of the hole allows might be
another option again if marginal ... not ideal I know, but in a pinch!

HTH,

Alex.

In article , Mr Fizzion
wrote:
I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

[Bosch GWB7.2VE 7.2V Angled Drill / Driver: £94.99]

I would have thought that this is precisely what it's meant to do,
though you're right that it does say drilling capacity in timber 15mm.

Depending on the sort of bit you are using, can you shorten the shank
so it's just long enough to get through the joist and no more?

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 16:13:09 +0100, Mr Fizzion
wrote:

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but
a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put
the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating
the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F

I have a Makita DA 391 angle drill. THis is only a 9.6v model but is
low geared. With a short 25mm auger bit, it will comfortably drill
through joists.

http://www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/webcat...391DWD&ID=2097

There is also a 12v version and both are available without batteries
or charger if you already have Makita tools.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Have to admit that when faced with the same dilemma, I bought a cheap'n
cheerful adaptor like the above off ebay on the basis that nothing
ventured, nothing gained - looks very similar to the above actually. It
did the job perfectly! Think my holes would have been a bit smaller
(for wiring, rather than pipes)

David

"Tony Bryer" wrote in message
...
In article , Mr Fizzion
wrote:
I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

[Bosch GWB7.2VE 7.2V Angled Drill / Driver: £94.99]

I would have thought that this is precisely what it's meant to do,
though you're right that it does say drilling capacity in timber 15mm.

Depending on the sort of bit you are using, can you shorten the shank
so it's just long enough to get through the joist and no more?

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

Ryobi do a battery angle drill. Do a Google on it.

On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 16:19:28 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist
(don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).

Thanks for all who had this idea :-)

I'll try this in a bit. The only problem is that the remaining part of
the shank will be perfectly round and shiny. I just wonder if the
chuck will grip it.

Mr F.

Mr Fizzion wrote:

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On the subject of cut down bits, CPC do short length Auger bits (which
would be a tad harder to cut down than a spade bit!):

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...=TL07075&N=411

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

Almost certainly would IME.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

A friend bought something simmilar (from Axminster) for the same job a
few weeks back. Driven from a cordless Makita (although I expect any
drill would do within reason), it survived the job ok. The job required
a few dozen holes.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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\================================================= ================/

In article , "Mr
Fizzion" ne says...
On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 16:19:28 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist
(don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).

Thanks for all who had this idea :-)

I'll try this in a bit. The only problem is that the remaining part of
the shank will be perfectly round and shiny. I just wonder if the
chuck will grip it.

If you have access to a welder then a blob of weld will give it
something to grip, but don't make it so big that the bit ends up not
sitting straight in the chuck.

Mr Fizzion wrote:
On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 16:19:28 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:


Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist
(don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).


Thanks for all who had this idea :-)

I'll try this in a bit. The only problem is that the remaining part of
the shank will be perfectly round and shiny. I just wonder if the
chuck will grip it.

Mr F.


In practice this doesn't seem to be a problem at high speed with sharp bits.

Dave

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

Drill at an angle. I presume you're installing cables, not pipes?


--
Rich P
Replace .invalid with .com to reply.

Richard Polhill wrote in news:lvu1s2-
:

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

Drill at an angle. I presume you're installing cables, not pipes?



But then I read back and realised it *was* pipework.

Ignore me. People often find it helps.

--
Rich P
Replace .invalid with .com to reply.

On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 16:49:52 +0100, Mr Fizzion
wrote:

On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 16:19:28 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist
(don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).

Thanks for all who had this idea :-)

I'll try this in a bit. The only problem is that the remaining part of
the shank will be perfectly round and shiny. I just wonder if the
chuck will grip it.

Mr F.


That will be a problem I suspect.

Spade bits are difficult to control to get a straight hole and need a
lot of torque.

An auger bit will work a lot better, and you can get short ones for
the job.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Richard Polhill" wrote in
message ...
Richard Polhill wrote in
news:lvu1s2-
:

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists
(between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm
looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

Drill at an angle. I presume you're installing cables, not pipes?



But then I read back and realised it *was* pipework.

Ignore me. People often find it helps.

If he was installing cables it is an advantage for the strength of the
joist to drill at an angle as you suggested.

Roger

"Mr Fizzion" wrote in message
...
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but
a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put
the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating
the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F


This may be a foolish suggestion, but here goes:
CK do a right angle drill adapter. It's small but seems very well made and
robust. Maplin stock it at under £4.00 (if my memory hasn't let me down).

Sylvain. (I'm a fellow).

In article , Roger R
wrote:
If he was installing cables it is an advantage for the strength of the
joist to drill at an angle as you suggested.

Uh? If you drill at an angle you remove more of the joist.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]

"Tony Bryer" wrote in message
...
In article , Roger
R
wrote:
If he was installing cables it is an advantage for the strength of
the
joist to drill at an angle as you suggested.

Uh? If you drill at an angle you remove more of the joist.

Marginally. Under excess load the joist would split along the grain
starting at the hole, but if the hole is at an angle the split could
not extend across the width of the joist because the same fibres are
not cut all the way across.

I cannot remember where I read about cutting at an angle, but when I
came to rewire this house the holes were cut at an angle. Of course
it could be the electrician in 1950 didn't have a drill that could get
between the joists.

Roger

"Mr Fizzion" wrote in message
...
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Paul


(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but
a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put
the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating
the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F

Paul Andrews wrote:

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Cost me about half (third?) the price of hiring a kosher drill to buy
the 90-deg adaptor, which worked fine for the limited use I put it to,
and I still have the adaptor if there's ever a 'next time'.

David

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Paul Andrews wrote:

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Cost me about half (third?) the price of hiring a kosher drill to buy
the 90-deg adaptor, which worked fine for the limited use I put it to,
and I still have the adaptor if there's ever a 'next time'.

David

B&Q sell this angle drill under the PP Pro brand for £50
http://tinyurl.com/2qp66

B&Q sell a cheap Makita angle drill too.
http://tinyurl.com/b2cpg

£80 for a Makita angle drill:
http://tinyurl.com/9wr8m

A beefier Ryobi for £99
http://tinyurl.com/a3fkz

"Paul Andrews" wrote in message
...
"Mr Fizzion" wrote in message
...
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...08869&id=19979

Not cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:
http://www.inest.co.uk/range.asp?typeId=603&id=539

Any other ideas?

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

A good angle drill can be used as a normal frill too. Look at the ryobi:
http://tinyurl.com/a3fkz

Doctor Drivel wrote:

B&Q sell a cheap Makita angle drill too.
http://tinyurl.com/b2cpg

Link does not seem to go anywhere...

£80 for a Makita angle drill:
http://tinyurl.com/9wr8m

That is for a drill only (i.e. no battery)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.

On Mon, 01 Aug 2005 16:13:09 +0100, Mr Fizzion
wrote:

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

Right angle drills are great, but still _very_ expensive. I wonder when
Ferm will do one ?


Cheap fix - get a floorboard ratchet brace - a brace with "half a
handle" so it fits between joists, then use a short screw auger. Slower
than a power drill, but still a quick job.

Even cheaper fix - get a cheap ratchet brace, a hacksaw and either a
welder or a few Jubilee clips. It works fine!


To make a short auger, either cut-and-shut one (more welding) or else
saw one down and forge a new square taper onto the end. You'll need to
re-heat treat the cutting end, but that's easy for something that's only
turned at hand speeds.

wrote:
On 1 Aug,
AlexW wrote:



Notches are structurally less sound and should really be used as a last
resort IMO.


It depends where in the span they are. Near the ends (0.07- 0.25 of span)
they are ok, but can seriously weaken the joist if nearer the middle.


Holes
near the centre line of the joists are ok near the middle(0.25-0.4 of span)
of the span, but not near the ends of the span. The dominant stresses are
different depending on where you are in the span.


Interested to find out more about the science behind this as I would
have thought a notch even quite close to the end would have been worse
than the equivalent size hole as there is support from above the
aperture. Surely only very close to the ends shear stress comes into
play significantly?

AIUI these figures are building regs stuff right?

Alex.

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Doctor Drivel wrote:

B&Q sell a cheap Makita angle drill too.
http://tinyurl.com/b2cpg

http://www.diy.com

and search on "angle drill".

Link does not seem to go anywhere...

£80 for a Makita angle drill:
http://tinyurl.com/9wr8m

That is for a drill only (i.e. no battery)

That is why they sell them that way, so the battery of your drill/driver can
be used.

On 02 Aug 2005 00:08:54 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.


Shouldn't matter - it had a 3 year warranty.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 02 Aug 2005 00:08:54 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.

Shouldn't matter - it had a 3 year warranty.

Just take the shuttle back

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:39:28 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On 02 Aug 2005 00:08:54 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.

Shouldn't matter - it had a 3 year warranty.

Just take the shuttle back


I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/4736941.stm

"The International Space Station's Canadarm2 robotic arm will position
Discovery mission specialist Robinson underneath the shuttle so he can
pull the gap fillers out.

If this doesn't work, he will use a saw to hack them away. "


Let's hope that this is in accordance with the Maker's
recommendations.





--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
On 02 Aug 2005 00:08:54 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.


Shouldn't matter - it had a 3 year warranty.

I wonder if they had their 'consequent losses' paragraph in place. ;-)

--
John Cartmell john@ followed by finnybank.com 0845 006 8822
Qercus magazine FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527 www.finnybank.com
Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Paul Andrews wrote:

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Cost me about half (third?) the price of hiring a kosher drill to
buy
the 90-deg adaptor, which worked fine for the limited use I put it
to,
and I still have the adaptor if there's ever a 'next time'.

David

B&Q sell this angle drill under the PP Pro brand for £50
http://tinyurl.com/2qp66


I bought one of these for holes in joists and it was fine for D-I-Y
use. The drill came in blow moulded case with a set of blade type
wood bits of various sizes, but more importantly with very short
shanks. 500 watts is not too powerful but ok for 1 inch holes in
wood if taken at steady pace, with breaks.

However I bought mine for half price when B&Q finished the range. So
I don't think they are available anymore but I'm willing to be
corrected on that.

Roger

Andy Dingley wrote:

To make a short auger, either cut-and-shut one (more welding) or else
saw one down and forge a new square taper onto the end. You'll need to
re-heat treat the cutting end, but that's easy for something that's only
turned at hand speeds.

You can buy short augers ready made...

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...=TL07075&N=411


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Roger R" wrote in message
...

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
eenews.net...

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Paul Andrews wrote:

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Cost me about half (third?) the price of hiring a kosher drill to
buy
the 90-deg adaptor, which worked fine for the limited use I put it
to,
and I still have the adaptor if there's ever a 'next time'.

David

B&Q sell this angle drill under the PP Pro brand for £50
http://tinyurl.com/2qp66


I bought one of these for holes in joists and it was fine for D-I-Y
use. The drill came in blow moulded case with a set of blade type
wood bits of various sizes, but more importantly with very short
shanks. 500 watts is not too powerful but ok for 1 inch holes in
wood if taken at steady pace, with breaks.

However I bought mine for half price when B&Q finished the range. So
I don't think they are available anymore but I'm willing to be
corrected on that.

Roger

The drill appears top be designed for ordinary use too. Is it easy to use
as normal drill?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 09:39:28 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On 02 Aug 2005 00:08:54 GMT, Ian Stirling
wrote:

Mr Fizzion wrote:
OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists
(between
ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking
for
a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

On a slightly related topic.

Yesterday, the right-angle-adaptor on the drill being used in the
space
shuttle payload bay failed.
I don't think it was PP though.

Shouldn't matter - it had a 3 year warranty.

Just take the shuttle back


I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

I bet they'll screw that up as well.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:17:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

I bet they'll screw that up as well.

I didn't know you'd been doing NASA training....



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:17:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

I bet they'll screw that up as well.

I didn't know you'd been doing NASA training....

I haven't, I would be the one to train them. The sound incompetent.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:16:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:17:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

I bet they'll screw that up as well.

I didn't know you'd been doing NASA training....

I haven't, I would be the one to train them. The sound incompetent.

Should be safe enough, then.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:16:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 14:17:26 +0100, "Doctor Drivel"
wrote:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

I see that there's a possible opportunity for you today. They need
to
remove some straps holding heatshield in place, apparently using a
hacksaw.

I bet they'll screw that up as well.

I didn't know you'd been doing NASA training....

I haven't, I would be the one to train them. They sound incompetent.

Should be safe enough, then.

In my hands they would be very safe.

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
eenews.net...


B&Q sell this angle drill under the PP Pro brand for £50
http://tinyurl.com/2qp66


I bought one of these for holes in joists and it was fine for
D-I-Y
use. The drill came in blow moulded case with a set of blade type
wood bits of various sizes, but more importantly with very short
shanks. 500 watts is not too powerful but ok for 1 inch holes in
wood if taken at steady pace, with breaks.

However I bought mine for half price when B&Q finished the range.
So
I don't think they are available anymore but I'm willing to be
corrected on that.

The drill appears top be designed for ordinary use too. Is it easy
to use
as normal drill?

Apart from not having a side handle for steadier two handed use it was
just as easy to use as an ordinary drill, but I don't use it except
for special purpose applications.

Possibly because my ordinary drill is on top in the tool box, is more
robust, more powerful, has hammer action switch, a 13 mm chuck - takes
almost anything, and has a side handle.

Roger