Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? Looks like you just pop it open from the top and lean it out, but before I break something, I thought I'd ask. The GE tech support folks can't tell me anything except to point at this diagram. Thanks in advance. -- Bob

http://imageshack.us/f/836/cabineti.jpg

373 - Locking clip
383 - Alignment pin

Below is a list of all the parts on the diagram sorted by part number:

Description Diagram Ref. # Part # Price
KIT - FUSE HARNESS 20 WH49X10055 $14.00

BUMPER LID 198 WH1X2722 $2.75

FUNNEL BLEACH 200 WH01X10057 $4.00

BUSHING HINGE (SINGLE) 204 WH1X2741 $3.00

BUSHING HINGE-FRONT OPEN 205 WH01X10025 $7.50

WIREFORM HINGE 206 WH1X2740 $4.50

WIREFORM HINGE 207 WH1X2743 $6.00

BUMPER HINGE 208 WH1X2742 $1.50

SCREW 209 WH2X1211 $1.75

MAGNET ASM 215 WH12X10276 $6.50

SCR 8-16 B FLP .625 ZN 216 WH02X10217 $1.25

WIRE TIE 218 WH01X10217 $1.00

CHRISTMAS TREE WIRE CLIP 362 WH02X10263 $1.25

PLUG PINETREE 363 WH02X10258 $1.25

BRACKET APRON LEFT 364 WH16X10101 $14.75

BRACKET APRON RIGHT 365 WH16X10102 $14.75

BRACKET APRON FRONT 366 WH16X10117 $29.75

SCR 8-18 AB IHW 7/16 SN 369 WH2X1217 $1.75

STRAP DAMPING 370 WH1X2727 $6.00

RETAINER STRAP 371 WH1X2726 $4.75

CLIP LOCKING 373 WH02X10279 $1.25

PANEL & BRACE ASM WH 375 WH46X10109 $123.00

SHIPPING BAR ASM 377 WH46X344 $17.00

BUTTON PLUG 378 WH1X2745 $1.25

CLIP GROUND 380 WH2X1207 $1.50

STUD GROUNDING 381 WH2X1190 $1.75

PIN ALIGNMENT 383 WH2X1189 $1.50

SCR 6-20 B TRT 3/8 S 384 WH01X10423 $0.75

SCR 8-15 A 3/4 SP HXW 384 WH01X10109 $1.50

COVER CLIP 385 WH01X10422 $2.00

BAR SELF LEVELING 386 WH46X10094 $31.75

CONDUIT 387 WH41X10161 $3.25

LID SWITCH ASM 388 WH12X10334 $24.75

COVER ASM FINISHED WH 391 WH44X10027 $154.25

LID ASM FINISHED WH 394 WH44X10209 $71.25

SCR 10-12 A HX 1/2 S 417 WH2X694D $4.75

SCR 8-18 B IHW 1 S 418 WH02X10282 $0.75

BASE ASM 421 WH46X10145 $200.75

LEG LEVELING 431 WH2X1187 $8.25

PIN ROLL 432 WH2X1188 $1.75

SCREW 8-32X3/8 GRD SCR 461 WZ5X158D $12.75

HOUSING TERMINAL 559 WH12X538 $15.00

CLIP ANTI-SIPHON 820 WH1X2725 $2.75

HOSE DRAIN EXTERNAL 825 WH41X10096 $16.00

RETAINER HOSE 834 WH16X513 $2.00

STRAP 835 WH1X2594 $4.75

SCR 8-18 AB IHWP 7/8 S 836 WH02X10002 $1.75

On 7/12/2012 1:07 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? Looks
like you just pop it open from the top and lean it out...anything
except topoint at this diagram. Thanks in advance. -- Bob

http://imageshack.us/f/836/cabineti.jpg

373 - Locking clip

....

Generally you need to slide a thin piece in to lift the clip on every GE
I've ever had (altho I've not pulled the new one apart yet--and it had
better be quite a long time before I have to).

You should be able w/ a light to see the fastener itself enough to tell
which way it springs and whether it's lifting w/ some pressure or has to
be sprung out of the way first.

--

On 7/12/2012 2:55 PM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 14:21:46 -0500, wrote:
....

OBTW, if (as I presume) the top overlays the front, I strongly suspect
the disassembly order is that top snaps free w/ those spring clips at
the front, it lays up/back and then the front has a few screws from the
inside that hold it in place---I'd guess that would be several of No 383
on the diagram but you didn't put the corresponding numbers on the list
and I didn't go try to find it...

+1

The top of my Matag top has to be lifted first. The fasteners removed
from inside of the front panel. It was when a had it serviced,
anyway.

The GEs have and every one I've had previously all look the same from
the case construction and are that way going back 40+ years. The brand
new washer/dryer look identical from the outside case construction altho
I've not had them apart I doubt there's anything different except
probably only one screw/side instead of two or similar...

I suspect virtually all makes are very similar although all I've ever
actually worked on were GE (or the equivalent Hotpoint that were the
alternate branded GE-made).

--

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
Guv Bob wrote:

Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? Looks like =
you just pop it open from the top and lean it out, but before I break =
something, I thought I'd ask. The GE tech support folks can't tell me
anything except to point at this diagram. Thanks in advance. -- Bob

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off first -
it's held by retaining clips at the top. When you get the front off, it
will expose two front screws that hold the top, and there are three more
screws holding the top on the back. I'm not sure what you're opening it
for, but you can do plenty of dama.., I mean, fixing, just through the
front, so may not even need to remove the top.

You'll need a small metal putty knife to disengage the clips. There's a
Youtube video by Hugh Barlow that shows the very procedure. Let me see if
I can post this link directly to the fragment 2 minutes into the video. If
my screwing with the Youtube options does not work, just open the video
and fast forward to the 2:00 mark, you'll see how he opens your washer.


http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s


-------------------------------------
/_/
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

On Jul 12, 3:17*pm, DA wrote:
responding tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/opening-cabinet-of-ge-washer...

DA wrote:
Guv Bob *wrote:
Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? *Looks like =
you just pop it open from the top and lean it out, but before I break =
something, I thought I'd ask. * The GE tech support folks can't tell me
anything except to point at this diagram. *Thanks in advance. *-- Bob

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off first -
it's held by retaining clips at the top. When you get the front off, it
will expose two front screws that hold the top, and there are three more
screws holding the top on the back. I'm not sure what you're opening it
for, but you can do plenty of dama.., I mean, fixing, just through the
front, so may not even need to remove the top.

You'll need a small metal putty knife to disengage the clips. There's a
Youtube video by Hugh Barlow that shows the very procedure. Let me see if
I can post this link directly to the fragment 2 minutes into the video. If
my screwing with the Youtube options does not work, just open the video
and fast forward to the 2:00 mark, you'll see how he opens your washer.

http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s

-------------------------------------
*/_/
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) *OWL
*VV-VV

OK - On some models like Sears Kenmore, the clips are in the same
location, but when you push in on the clips, the top lifts up rather
than the front moving forward.

DA wrote:
Guv Bob wrote:

Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? Looks
like = you just pop it open from the top and lean it out, but before
I break = something, I thought I'd ask. The GE tech support folks
can't tell me anything except to point at this diagram. Thanks in
advance. -- Bob

You'll need a small metal putty knife to disengage the clips. There's
a Youtube video by Hugh Barlow that shows the very procedure. Let me
see if I can post this link directly to the fragment 2 minutes into
the video. If my screwing with the Youtube options does not work,
just open the video and fast forward to the 2:00 mark, you'll see how
he opens your washer.

http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s

Hey, that was an excellent answer to the OP's question and shows exactly how
it's done.

Now, my question is, "How were you able to modify the YouTube options to
create a link that goes directly to the 2-minute mark on the video?"

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
TomR wrote:

Now, my question is, "How were you able to modify the YouTube
options to
create a link that goes directly to the 2-minute mark on the
video?"

On the Youtube page, under the video, there's that "Share" link. You click
on it and a small panel opens up with the address and right below that a
small "Options" link with a down facing arrow. You click on that, and yet
another small window opens up where you can check the "Start at X:XX"
option. When you do, the address of the video in the "Share" field changes
automatically. You can just copy it from there and paste in a post.

Looking at the address, all this option does is add ?t=2m1s to the end of
the video address which translates to 2:01. Knowing that, I guess you
don't even need to mess with Youtube options, just add a properly formed
t=XmYs to the end of the address and the right moment in the video should
open up.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

On 7/12/2012 3:17 PM, DA wrote:
....

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off first -
it's held by retaining clips at the top....

Hmmm...any idea when that change occurred? I've had nothing but GE
since the 60s and that's the first time I've seen one that the top
didn't lift up w/ the snappy clips and then the front came off w/ screws
from the inside....dryers as well.

I suppose the new one we just got(+) will be that way (new way, that is)
but I'm hoping its long enough I'll have forgotten this long before
then...

(+) Of course, by model on the one it replaced, it was a mid-80s, so
they could have changed quite a while ago and I'd not know about it...
I've never been known for updating until it virtually was mandatory.

--

"DA" wrote in message
roups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
TomR wrote:

Now, my question is, "How were you able to modify the YouTube
options to
create a link that goes directly to the 2-minute mark on the
video?"

On the Youtube page, under the video, there's that "Share" link. You click
on it and a small panel opens up with the address and right below that a
small "Options" link with a down facing arrow. You click on that, and yet
another small window opens up where you can check the "Start at X:XX"
option. When you do, the address of the video in the "Share" field changes
automatically. You can just copy it from there and paste in a post.

Looking at the address, all this option does is add ?t=2m1s to the end of
the video address which translates to 2:01. Knowing that, I guess you
don't even need to mess with Youtube options, just add a properly formed
t=XmYs to the end of the address and the right moment in the video should
open up.

Very cool. Thanks.

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
dpb wrote:

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off
first - it's held by retaining clips at the top....

Hmmm...any idea when that change occurred? I've had nothing but GE
since the 60s and that's the first time I've seen one that the top
didn't lift up w/ the snappy clips and then the front came off w/ screws
from the inside....dryers as well.

I believe they've changed the drum, suspension and cabinet design roughly
around the same time in mid-90s. Was Profile 2000 the first to get the new
cabinet? I'm not too sure, but it's been like that for more than a decade
for certain. It's not a bad cabinet design - you can do quite a few things
in there by taking just the front off.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

"DA" wrote in message oups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
dpb wrote:

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off
first - it's held by retaining clips at the top....

Hmmm...any idea when that change occurred? I've had nothing but GE
since the 60s and that's the first time I've seen one that the top
didn't lift up w/ the snappy clips and then the front came off w/ screws
from the inside....dryers as well.

I believe they've changed the drum, suspension and cabinet design roughly
around the same time in mid-90s. Was Profile 2000 the first to get the new
cabinet? I'm not too sure, but it's been like that for more than a decade
for certain. It's not a bad cabinet design - you can do quite a few things
in there by taking just the front off.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

Thanks a million, DA! That video from Hugh takes all the guess work out.
http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s

I'll tackle this now and post what I have fixed and/or messed up. LOL!!

Full URL just in case...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeAOm...outu.be&t=2m1s

Bob

Sketch showing how to spring the latches and remove the front cabinet panel.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/front01.gif/

Photo showing where latch is. Two places on top. None on sides.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/gedc0702.jpg/

Inside of door
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/gedc0697.jpg/

Lower right side. Hose between pump and outlet on back is restricted near the right side. Looks like it is made that way. This could be the reason the pump runs for 5 sections, then shut off for 5 section, over and over when draining. That could be the design, but normally you would put restrictions on the inlet if that is the reason for the design. Will call GE in the morning.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/gedc0683.jpg/

Motor and bottom of tub
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/gedc0693.jpg/




"Guv Bob" wrote in message ...
"DA" wrote in message oups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
dpb wrote:

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off
first - it's held by retaining clips at the top....

Hmmm...any idea when that change occurred? I've had nothing but GE
since the 60s and that's the first time I've seen one that the top
didn't lift up w/ the snappy clips and then the front came off w/ screws
from the inside....dryers as well.

I believe they've changed the drum, suspension and cabinet design roughly
around the same time in mid-90s. Was Profile 2000 the first to get the new
cabinet? I'm not too sure, but it's been like that for more than a decade
for certain. It's not a bad cabinet design - you can do quite a few things
in there by taking just the front off.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

Thanks a million, DA! That video from Hugh takes all the guess work out.
http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s

I'll tackle this now and post what I have fixed and/or messed up. LOL!!

Full URL just in case...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeAOm...outu.be&t=2m1s

Bob

Ran several loads by now and smell is coming back. Any ideas fellers?

"Guv Bob" wrote in message m...
FYI, I ran 3 cycles with tablet of Affresh in each and it got rid of the sour smell. i wanted to be sure there was no problem elsewhere first. Hopefully that's the end of this project for awhile.

"Guv Bob" wrote in message ...
Sketch showing how to spring the latches and remove the front cabinet panel.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/88/front01.gif/

Photo showing where latch is. Two places on top. None on sides.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/gedc0702.jpg/

Inside of door
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/593/gedc0697.jpg/

Lower right side. Hose between pump and outlet on back is restricted near the right side. Looks like it is made that way. This could be the reason the pump runs for 5 sections, then shut off for 5 section, over and over when draining. That could be the design, but normally you would put restrictions on the inlet if that is the reason for the design. Will call GE in the morning.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/194/gedc0683.jpg/

Motor and bottom of tub
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/gedc0693.jpg/




"Guv Bob" wrote in message ...
"DA" wrote in message oups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ww-704322-.htm
DA wrote:
dpb wrote:

In most of these top loaders (not only GE) the front comes off
first - it's held by retaining clips at the top....

Hmmm...any idea when that change occurred? I've had nothing but GE
since the 60s and that's the first time I've seen one that the top
didn't lift up w/ the snappy clips and then the front came off w/ screws
from the inside....dryers as well.

I believe they've changed the drum, suspension and cabinet design roughly
around the same time in mid-90s. Was Profile 2000 the first to get the new
cabinet? I'm not too sure, but it's been like that for more than a decade
for certain. It's not a bad cabinet design - you can do quite a few things
in there by taking just the front off.

-------------------------------------
/\_/\
((@v@)) NIGHT
()::) OWL
VV-VV

Thanks a million, DA! That video from Hugh takes all the guess work out.
http://youtu.be/VeAOmQ2JisU?t=2m1s

I'll tackle this now and post what I have fixed and/or messed up. LOL!!

Full URL just in case...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeAOm...outu.be&t=2m1s

Bob

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
news
Ran several loads by now and smell is coming back. Any ideas fellers?


When your washer is not in use, is the lid open or closed ?
Most washers get stinky if kept closed when not in use.

Try running a couple of rinse cycles and no clothes with some bleach.
Use the small load setting with a half-cup of bleach.

"Atila Iskander" wrote in message ...

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
news
Ran several loads by now and smell is coming back. Any ideas fellers?


When your washer is not in use, is the lid open or closed ?
Most washers get stinky if kept closed when not in use.

Try running a couple of rinse cycles and no clothes with some bleach.
Use the small load setting with a half-cup of bleach.

Thanks, will give it a try. We always leave the lid open - we're in a very dry climate and any water evaporates quickly.

By the way, there's no smell inside the cabinet, around the outside of washer or around the drain. It's coming from inside. If this doesn't cure it, I'll take the hoses to the pump loose and root around in there.

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
m...
"Atila Iskander" wrote in message
...

"Guv Bob" wrote in message
news
Ran several loads by now and smell is coming back. Any ideas fellers?


When your washer is not in use, is the lid open or closed ?
Most washers get stinky if kept closed when not in use.

Try running a couple of rinse cycles and no clothes with some bleach.
Use the small load setting with a half-cup of bleach.

Thanks, will give it a try. We always leave the lid open - we're in a very
dry climate and any water evaporates quickly.

By the way, there's no smell inside the cabinet, around the outside of
washer or around the drain. It's coming from inside. If this doesn't cure
it, I'll take the hoses to the pump loose and root around in there.

{{

Haven't looked up the model but I do know that some of the high effect
models will produce those problems if there is too much soap used. (too
much is a very little amount).

Somewhere around here I have a white paper that addresses both the direct
cause of the problem and a fix. If I can find it I'll post a link.

On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 11:11:44 -0700, "Guv Bob"
wrote:


When your washer is not in use, is the lid open or closed ?
Most washers get stinky if kept closed when not in use.

Try running a couple of rinse cycles and no clothes with some bleach.
Use the small load setting with a half-cup of bleach.

Thanks, will give it a try. We always leave the lid open - we're in a very dry climate and any water evaporates quickly.

By the way, there's no smell inside the cabinet, around the outside of washer or around the drain. It's coming from inside. If this doesn't cure it, I'll take the hoses to the pump loose and root around in there.


Before removing parts, etc., try a tablespoon or two of TSP run
through a wash cycle (no clothes). _Use hot water_.

You can find the red box in the paint section of the borg, if not find
it online. An all-purpose heavy duty cleaner.

Trisodium Phosphate:

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-TSP/dp/B0001GOGQW

Same for a dishwasher.....

"Oren" wrote in message ...
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 11:11:44 -0700, "Guv Bob"
wrote:


When your washer is not in use, is the lid open or closed ?
Most washers get stinky if kept closed when not in use.

Try running a couple of rinse cycles and no clothes with some bleach.
Use the small load setting with a half-cup of bleach.

Thanks, will give it a try. We always leave the lid open - we're in a very dry climate and any water evaporates quickly.

By the way, there's no smell inside the cabinet, around the outside of washer or around the drain. It's coming from inside. If this doesn't cure it, I'll take the hoses to the pump loose and root around in there.


Before removing parts, etc., try a tablespoon or two of TSP run
through a wash cycle (no clothes). _Use hot water_.

You can find the red box in the paint section of the borg, if not find
it online. An all-purpose heavy duty cleaner.

Trisodium Phosphate:

http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10621-Trisodium-Phosphate-TSP/dp/B0001GOGQW

Same for a dishwasher.....

Thanks Oren. I'll give it a try.

Continuing my original posting.... running cleaning solution through the washer fixed the original problem, but has to be repeated every couple of months when the the sour smell comes back.

I have to say... this washer is really bad. Here are some good videos about repairing this exact model. Thanks Hugh for posting these!!!

http://www.veengle.com/s/Basket+Drive/9.html
First video is also he
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeAOmQ2JisU

Water, drain and soap are all fine - the problem is definitely the washer. I have carefully followed the mfr's instructions and gone through everything with more than one GE customer service person on the phone. They won't send out a service tech to check it without me paying a service call.

Other problems with this unit:

1. It never fills up enough to get the top of the clothes wet.

2. I spins so fast that it creates permanent wrinkles in some clothes.

3. There is no lint filter which periodically leads to plugging the drain or stays in the clothes and then loading up the link filter, which means longer drying time.



"Guv Bob" wrote in message m...
Anyone know how to get the front door off of this cabinet? Looks like you just pop it open from the top and lean it out, but before I break something, I thought I'd ask. The GE tech support folks can't tell me anything except to point at this diagram. Thanks in advance. -- Bob

http://imageshack.us/f/836/cabineti.jpg

373 - Locking clip
383 - Alignment pin

Below is a list of all the parts on the diagram sorted by part number:

Description Diagram Ref. # Part # Price
KIT - FUSE HARNESS 20 WH49X10055 $14.00

BUMPER LID 198 WH1X2722 $2.75

FUNNEL BLEACH 200 WH01X10057 $4.00

BUSHING HINGE (SINGLE) 204 WH1X2741 $3.00

BUSHING HINGE-FRONT OPEN 205 WH01X10025 $7.50

WIREFORM HINGE 206 WH1X2740 $4.50

WIREFORM HINGE 207 WH1X2743 $6.00

BUMPER HINGE 208 WH1X2742 $1.50

SCREW 209 WH2X1211 $1.75

MAGNET ASM 215 WH12X10276 $6.50

SCR 8-16 B FLP .625 ZN 216 WH02X10217 $1.25

WIRE TIE 218 WH01X10217 $1.00

CHRISTMAS TREE WIRE CLIP 362 WH02X10263 $1.25

PLUG PINETREE 363 WH02X10258 $1.25

BRACKET APRON LEFT 364 WH16X10101 $14.75

BRACKET APRON RIGHT 365 WH16X10102 $14.75

BRACKET APRON FRONT 366 WH16X10117 $29.75

SCR 8-18 AB IHW 7/16 SN 369 WH2X1217 $1.75

STRAP DAMPING 370 WH1X2727 $6.00

RETAINER STRAP 371 WH1X2726 $4.75

CLIP LOCKING 373 WH02X10279 $1.25

PANEL & BRACE ASM WH 375 WH46X10109 $123.00

SHIPPING BAR ASM 377 WH46X344 $17.00

BUTTON PLUG 378 WH1X2745 $1.25

CLIP GROUND 380 WH2X1207 $1.50

STUD GROUNDING 381 WH2X1190 $1.75

PIN ALIGNMENT 383 WH2X1189 $1.50

SCR 6-20 B TRT 3/8 S 384 WH01X10423 $0.75

SCR 8-15 A 3/4 SP HXW 384 WH01X10109 $1.50

COVER CLIP 385 WH01X10422 $2.00

BAR SELF LEVELING 386 WH46X10094 $31.75

CONDUIT 387 WH41X10161 $3.25

LID SWITCH ASM 388 WH12X10334 $24.75

COVER ASM FINISHED WH 391 WH44X10027 $154.25

LID ASM FINISHED WH 394 WH44X10209 $71.25

SCR 10-12 A HX 1/2 S 417 WH2X694D $4.75

SCR 8-18 B IHW 1 S 418 WH02X10282 $0.75

BASE ASM 421 WH46X10145 $200.75

LEG LEVELING 431 WH2X1187 $8.25

PIN ROLL 432 WH2X1188 $1.75

SCREW 8-32X3/8 GRD SCR 461 WZ5X158D $12.75

HOUSING TERMINAL 559 WH12X538 $15.00

CLIP ANTI-SIPHON 820 WH1X2725 $2.75

HOSE DRAIN EXTERNAL 825 WH41X10096 $16.00

RETAINER HOSE 834 WH16X513 $2.00

STRAP 835 WH1X2594 $4.75

SCR 8-18 AB IHWP 7/8 S 836 WH02X10002 $1.75