Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. (Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?



Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

"David Combs" wrote in message
...
Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. (Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?



Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

You can buy shims that are not made of wood and will not rot.

R

On 10 Mar 2012 22:45:38 -0500, (David Combs) wrote:


Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?

Look at "furniture floor cups". Various styles and colors at your
local store.

Sample:

http://www.lulusoso.com/upload/20110824/caster_cups.jpg

Why can't they adjust the legs further?

"David Combs" wrote in message
...
Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. (Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?


Tilt the fringe up in front. Screw the feet UP about a quarter inch. Measure
distance to floor. Then add something solid such as metal washer or tempered
Masonite that almost fits tight. Then you have space too work with to get
level. Normal is to have fringe tilt back a small amount so door will swing
shut on it's own. WW



Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

On 10 Mar 2012 22:45:38 -0500, (David Combs) wrote:

Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

Yes, I fix mine to shut by itself. I wonder why so few people do.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Pretty small.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in.

Into what? What's your floor made of?

(Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.
And how many coats?

Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for

Shims are good, but they needn't be wood. An old piece of asphalt or
vinyl (if it's not cushioned) floor tile, might work. Even a 12x12"
piece won't be seen unless you're on the floor, and it won't wiggle
out. A scrap of masonite. I save litttle scraps of everything, but
most people don't. When I'm away, I usually just look on the ground
or in a waste basket for what I need. Or if I see what I want, I
ask a contractor to give me his left overs or what he rips out.

maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

On Mar 10, 10:16*pm, micky wrote:
On 10 Mar 2012 22:45:38 -0500, (David Combs) wrote:

Bought this new refrigerator. *Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

Yes, I fix mine to shut by itself. I wonder why so few people do.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Pretty small.



Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in.

Into what? *What's your floor made of?

*(Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.
And how many coats?

Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. *Or for

Shims are good, but they needn't be wood. * An old piece of asphalt or
vinyl (if it's not cushioned) floor tile, might work. * Even a 12x12"
piece won't be seen unless you're on the floor, and it won't wiggle
out. * A scrap of masonite. * I save litttle scraps of everything, but
most people don't. * When I'm away, I usually just look on the ground
or in a waste basket for what I need. * Or if I see what I want, *I
ask a contractor to give me his left overs or what he rips out.



maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?

THANKS MUCH!

David- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I've even used heavy cereal box cardboard folded back and forth
multiple times and then trimmed to the size of the adjustable feet so
it doesn't even show.

(David Combs) wrote:

Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

I'd call the manufacturer and ask them if they have front castors with
a longer reach. If they do [or they point out what the installers
were doing wrong] I'd ask for a freebie- either the part, or the
'installers' come out and do what they should have done.

I can't imagine a kitchen floor being too far out of level for
refrigerator legs-- but I guess it can happen.

-snip-

Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?

If you end up with shims get the not-wood ones. [plastic, rubber?]

Jim

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 07:14:57 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

(David Combs) wrote:

Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

I'd call the manufacturer and ask them if they have front castors with
a longer reach. If they do [or they point out what the installers
were doing wrong] I'd ask for a freebie- either the part, or the
'installers' come out and do what they should have done.

I can't imagine a kitchen floor being too far out of level for
refrigerator legs-- but I guess it can happen.

Perhaps he should be in the basement or crawlspace jacking up the
sagging floor.

I've used the square plastic things, designed to put under the feet of
furniture. Had good results with that.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"David Combs" wrote in message
...
Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. (Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?



Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

On Mar 10, 8:45*pm, (David Combs) wrote:
Bought this new refrigerator. *Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. *(Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?

Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. *Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?

THANKS MUCH!

David

NO!!! use plastic shim.

just get a plasitc disk about the size of the foot and adjust like
you're supposed to. Whoever has to clean around those feet will be
MUCH happier.

I can't imagine a kitchen floor being too far out of level for
refrigerator legs-- but I guess it can happen.

Perhaps he should be in the basement or crawlspace jacking up the
sagging floor.

Exactly. At least explore the option of leveling some of the floor,
if convenient. Chances are the floor is bouncy, also, so that issue
could possibly be resolved, also.

Treat the root problem, not a symptom, if you can.

On Sat, 10 Mar 2012 21:14:31 -0700, "WW"
wrote:


"David Combs" wrote in message
...
Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

So, I got a package of shims, maybe 1/3 inch at one end, triangles
down to a point (of course) at the other end.

Looks like cheap pine.

Which will deteriorate, get dirty, absorb spills, plus having
a weak (easily indented) surface.

So I guess it'd be best if I paint them first, with some HARD
finish (transparent?) paint.

Of course we'll probably tilt the refrigerator back so the
front feet come off the floor, and slide in the shims.

BUT, I'd like it a hard-enough surface that if necessary
we *could* pound (hammer) them in. (Maybe that's asking
a bit much?)

Anyway, suggestions as to what to paint them with.

And how many coats?


Tilt the fringe up in front. Screw the feet UP about a quarter inch. Measure
distance to floor. Then add something solid such as metal washer or tempered
Masonite that almost fits tight. Then you have space too work with to get
level.

Good point.

Normal is to have fringe tilt back a small amount so door will swing
shut on it's own. WW



Or, ideas for other means than via shims at all. Or for
maybe laminating with some plastic stuff?


THANKS MUCH!

David

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 07:46:37 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 07:14:57 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

(David Combs) wrote:

Bought this new refrigerator. Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.

I'd call the manufacturer and ask them if they have front castors with
a longer reach. If they do [or they point out what the installers
were doing wrong] I'd ask for a freebie- either the part, or the
'installers' come out and do what they should have done.

I can't imagine a kitchen floor being too far out of level for
refrigerator legs-- but I guess it can happen.

Perhaps he should be in the basement or crawlspace jacking up the
sagging floor.

Good point. OP, move the refirgerator before you try this.

On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 07:02:31 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 10, 8:45*pm, (David Combs) wrote:
Bought this new refrigerator. *Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.
.....
NO!!! use plastic shim.

just get a plasitc disk about the size of the foot and adjust like
you're supposed to. Whoever has to clean around those feet will be
MUCH happier.

You're supposed to clean around the feet?

On Mar 11, 10:37*pm, micky wrote:
On Sun, 11 Mar 2012 07:02:31 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy



wrote:
On Mar 10, 8:45*pm, (David Combs) wrote:
Bought this new refrigerator. *Installers couldn't crank the front
up enough so that the door would swing closed; instead, wants
to swing farther open.
....
NO!!! use plastic shim.

just get a plasitc disk about the size of the foot and adjust like
you're supposed to. Whoever has to clean around those feet will be
MUCH happier.

You're supposed to clean around the feet?

LOL! Remind me NOT to accept any invitation to dinner.

On Mar 13, 12:34*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 17:30:30 +0000 (UTC), (David

Combs) wrote:

THANKS MUCH!

LOTS OF GOOD IDEAS!

(never knew there *were* plastic shims)

The plumbing section of the BORG has plastic shims, used for toilets.



Floor *is* level, so I better check out the current feet, see
why they don't screw out any more.

David

Check the back legs. *Turn them up / in and the front legs down / out.
That will get the tilt you need so the door shuts.

Something is odd. *I've never needed to use shims....

New fridges have fixed back legs and adjustable front only, yes?

And old buildings the floor may be level but at the edges it's more
like a hammock.

On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 14:24:35 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Mar 13, 12:34*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 17:30:30 +0000 (UTC), (David

Combs) wrote:

THANKS MUCH!

LOTS OF GOOD IDEAS!

(never knew there *were* plastic shims)

The plumbing section of the BORG has plastic shims, used for toilets.



Floor *is* level, so I better check out the current feet, see
why they don't screw out any more.

David

Check the back legs. *Turn them up / in and the front legs down / out.
That will get the tilt you need so the door shuts.

Something is odd. *I've never needed to use shims....

New fridges have fixed back legs and adjustable front only, yes?

And old buildings the floor may be level but at the edges it's more
like a hammock.

If he has wheels or rollers in the back, many of them can also be
adjusted.

OP -- tell us exactly what you have....

In article ,
Sonny wrote:
I can't imagine a kitchen floor being too far out of level for
refrigerator legs-- but I guess it can happen.

Perhaps he should be in the basement or crawlspace jacking up the
sagging floor.

Exactly. At least explore the option of leveling some of the floor,
if convenient. Chances are the floor is bouncy, also, so that issue
could possibly be resolved, also.

Treat the root problem, not a symptom, if you can.


The floor is flat.

I guess I'll just have to play with the screw-feet.

David