[Nancy Young[_4_]]

I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

[Pointer]

On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.

[Nancy Young[_4_]]

On 1/12/2012 9:49 AM, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:


But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

nancy

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Jan 12, 8:49*am, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:



I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the joint is taped with one of the fibreglass mesh tapes, won't
that be sufficient?

[N8N]

On Jan 12, 12:17*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:





On 1/12/2012 9:49 AM, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

nancy

you can do whatever you want. *It's YOUR house. *Just tell them what you
want done. *Yes, what you propose will work. *The backerboard will have
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. *Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an
experienced drywall person.

And to clarify, cement board comes in different thicknesses for the
exact reason that you can select the CB that you need to butt up
against your existing drywall or cement board nicely.

Side note: Me personally, I would not use anything but cement board
behind tile in a bathroom, although some people use mold resistant
drywall with success. It is however harder to work with than drywall,
you can't score and snap, you have to cut it with a saw.

nate

[Nancy Young[_4_]]

On 1/12/2012 12:17 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

you can do whatever you want. It's YOUR house. Just tell them what you
want done.

(laugh) This is true, but I do rely on the professionals to tell
me if something is a bad idea. He was clear on my options and none
of them involved just treating the backer board like it was a
different kind of sheetrock.

Yes, what you propose will work. The backerboard will have to
have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the sheetrock.

Shoot, I did that to a whole room that had sand paint to smooth it
out, I could do a four inch strip of backer board no problem.

Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an experienced
drywall person.

Cool. I was thinking is it 1/4 thicker or something? Thank you
for the help.

nancy

[N8N]

On Jan 12, 10:38*am, Nancy Young replyto@inemail wrote:
On 1/12/2012 12:17 PM, Steve Barker wrote:

On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.
you can do whatever you want. It's YOUR house. Just tell them what you
want done.

(laugh) *This is true, but I do rely on the professionals to tell
me if something is a bad idea. *He was clear on my options and none
of them involved just treating the backer board like it was a
different kind of sheetrock.

* Yes, what you propose will work. The backerboard will have to

have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the sheetrock..

Shoot, I did that to a whole room that had sand paint to smooth it
out, I could do a four inch strip of backer board no problem.

Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an experienced
drywall person.

Cool. *I was thinking is it 1/4 thicker or something? *Thank you
for the help.

just punch a hole in the wall somewhere that is going to be replaced
by the backer board, measure the thickness of the drywall, order
backer board to match. It really is that easy.

nate

[N8N]

On Jan 12, 10:13*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Jan 12, 8:49*am, Pointer wrote:





On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:

I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the joint is taped with one of the fibreglass mesh tapes, won't
that be sufficient?

I'd say no, but if you back the seam with a 1x3 and then screw both
the drywall and the backer board to the 1x3 then it will be.

nate

[Nancy Young[_4_]]

On 1/12/2012 10:31 AM, N8N wrote:
On Jan 12, 12:17 pm, Steve wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

you can do whatever you want. It's YOUR house. Just tell them what you
want done. Yes, what you propose will work. The backerboard will have
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an
experienced drywall person.

And to clarify, cement board comes in different thicknesses for the
exact reason that you can select the CB that you need to butt up
against your existing drywall or cement board nicely.

Interesting. I think because this tile job comes with a 12 year
warranty (for what that's worth), maybe they insist on thicker
board.

Before anyone says it, I know I should be talking to the tile
guy, I really just like to get the scoop from you so I know
what the problem might be. I appreciate the info.

Side note: Me personally, I would not use anything but cement board
behind tile in a bathroom, although some people use mold resistant
drywall with success. It is however harder to work with than drywall,
you can't score and snap, you have to cut it with a saw.

I had the bathroom done some 20 years ago. The guy wanted to just
keep the cruddy drywall that was there from the 50s, hell no. To the
studs. He put green board in the whole room. I haven't had any
problem whatsoever with mold or whatever.

Perhaps if I wind up hiring a guy to oversee all the details that
the tile people don't take care of, it's a consideration to replace
the rest.

nancy

[Limp Arbor]

On Jan 12, 9:45*am, Nancy Young replyto@inemail wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. *The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. *Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? *Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

When you have your bathroom gutted have studs put in where you want
the tile to end. The backer board and tile will both get screwed to
this stud. When the tile is installed it is cemented to the backer
board but the edge of it overlays the drywall. Trying to mud/tape to
the edge of the tile will give whoever is taping the drywall a
difficult task.

When tubs were installed years ago most tile jobs were just installed
on the drywall so it didn't matter where the studs were. In a remodel
adding two studs at the edge of the tub or where ever you want your
tile to end is an insignificant cost.

Just keep in mind that if you decide on a narrow bullnose tile to
terminate the tile run that could make things more difficult.

[Steve Barker[_6_]]

On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:49 AM, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:


But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

nancy

you can do whatever you want. It's YOUR house. Just tell them what you
want done. Yes, what you propose will work. The backerboard will have
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an
experienced drywall person.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

[Joe]

On Jan 12, 8:45*am, Nancy Young replyto@inemail wrote:

snip

Any bathroom CB or drywall is best skim coated with setting type
drywall mud and fiberglass tape. Much more stable in a damp
environment.

Joe

[hr(bob) [email protected]]

On Jan 12, 10:08*am, N8N wrote:
On Jan 12, 10:13*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Jan 12, 8:49*am, Pointer wrote:

On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:

I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the joint is taped with one of the fibreglass mesh tapes, won't
that be sufficient?

I'd say no, but if you back the seam with a 1x3 and then screw both
the drywall and the backer board to the 1x3 then it will be.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Really good point, I should have thought of it as I have done that a
few times on repairs.

[Red Green]

N8N wrote in
:

On Jan 12, 12:17*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:





On 1/12/2012 9:49 AM, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the
seam.

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

nancy

you can do whatever you want. *It's YOUR house. *Just tell them what
you
want done. *Yes, what you propose will work. *The backerboard will ha
ve
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. *Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for
a
n
experienced drywall person.

And to clarify, cement board comes in different thicknesses for the
exact reason that you can select the CB that you need to butt up
against your existing drywall or cement board nicely.

Half inch Hardie backer (HardieBacker 500) is .42".


Side note: Me personally, I would not use anything but cement board
behind tile in a bathroom, although some people use mold resistant
drywall with success. It is however harder to work with than drywall,
you can't score and snap, you have to cut it with a saw.

nate

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 09:45:39 -0500, Nancy Young replyto@inemail
wrote:

I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

Because you NEVER have an unsupported long (vertical) joint between
drywall and drywall, drywall and backer board, or backerboard and
backerboard. Any flex will damage the joint. There IS an option when a
wall is open. Add another stud at the point the 2 panels will join.

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 07:13:32 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 12, 8:49Â*am, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:



I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

I'm finally pulling the trigger on renovating my bathroom.
It's just as much fun as I remember. The previous remodel
has me leery of having a contractor do the tile job, so I
went to a tile place.

The guy is telling me that they are not sheetrock installers.
Check.

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the seam.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the joint is taped with one of the fibreglass mesh tapes, won't
that be sufficient?
Never.

The other solution is backer board to the stud and a good mud job,
with setting type compound, between the tile line and the existing
drywall. A good drywall guy can do it - but as the tile guy said, they
are not drywall guys.
The OP will need both a GOOD tile guy and a GOOD drywall guy /
mudder-taper.

[Robert Neville]

wrote:

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

nancy

Because you NEVER have an unsupported long (vertical) joint between
drywall and drywall, drywall and backer board, or backerboard and
backerboard. Any flex will damage the joint. There IS an option when a
wall is open. Add another stud at the point the 2 panels will join.

What he said. And that you don't tape the seam between sheetrock and
backerboard. Tile should completely cover the backerboard.

[Nancy Young[_4_]]

On 1/12/2012 11:07 PM, Robert Neville wrote:
wrote:

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Because you NEVER have an unsupported long (vertical) joint between
drywall and drywall, drywall and backer board, or backerboard and
backerboard.

I understand that, no problem. It's one of those 'I can show
you better than I can tell you' things. For sure I know that
drywall/etc needs to have the edge land on a stud.

Any flex will damage the joint. There IS an option when a
wall is open. Add another stud at the point the 2 panels will join.

That was one of the three solutions the guy mentioned.

What he said. And that you don't tape the seam between sheetrock and
backerboard. Tile should completely cover the backerboard.

The last sentence is actually what I was asking. I didn't understand
just *why* the backerboard has to be covered by tile and not just
taped/whatever to match the drywall.

I'm just going to live with the tile extending farther by a course
past the shower. Thanks for all the advice.

nancy

[Ron]

Nancy Young wrote:
On 1/12/2012 11:07 PM, Robert Neville wrote:
wrote:

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

Because you NEVER have an unsupported long (vertical) joint between
drywall and drywall, drywall and backer board, or backerboard and
backerboard.

I understand that, no problem. It's one of those 'I can show
you better than I can tell you' things. For sure I know that
drywall/etc needs to have the edge land on a stud.

Any flex will damage the joint. There IS an option when a
wall is open. Add another stud at the point the 2 panels will join.

That was one of the three solutions the guy mentioned.

What he said. And that you don't tape the seam between sheetrock and
backerboard. Tile should completely cover the backerboard.

The last sentence is actually what I was asking. I didn't understand
just *why* the backerboard has to be covered by tile and not just
taped/whatever to match the drywall.

I'm just going to live with the tile extending farther by a course
past the shower. Thanks for all the advice.

nancy

I seems like you received a lot of very good answers, you understood what
each of the answers and options meant, and you came up with a final plan
that works for you.

I just wanted to add that if by, "I'm just going to live with the tile
extending farther by a course past the shower", you mean that there will be
one column of tile that is past the shower and runs down to the floor next
to the tub, I think that may be a good idea anyway.

I have two apartments, almost identical, one directly above the other. I
re-did the bathroom in the 1st floor apartment a year ago, and I am re-doing
the bathroom in the 2nd floor apartment now. When I re-did the bathroom
last year, I did it so the tile came right to the end/edge of the tub --
with no tile coming out past the edge of the tub. This year, before
starting on the 2nd floor bath, I looked at the 1st floor bath and I noticed
a minor problem. Since the tile only runs to the end of the tub, there is
no column of tile along the wall next to the tub running down to the floor.
Due to that, small amounts of water run down over the edge of the tub, and
since there is no tile there, it runs along the sheetrock wall next to the
tub. That causes the paint and sheetrock to peel a little. Not a big deal,
but still an issue.

So, with the 2nd floor bath, I am intentionally adding a column of tile out
past the edge of the tub and down to the floor. That way, any small amounts
of water that run down over the edge of the tub will run down a tiled (not
sheetrock) portion of the wall. That will eliminate the problem I have with
the 1st floor bath.