On 1/12/2012 10:31 AM, N8N wrote:
On Jan 12, 12:17 pm, Steve wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

you can do whatever you want. It's YOUR house. Just tell them what you
want done. Yes, what you propose will work. The backerboard will have
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for an
experienced drywall person.

And to clarify, cement board comes in different thicknesses for the
exact reason that you can select the CB that you need to butt up
against your existing drywall or cement board nicely.

Interesting. I think because this tile job comes with a 12 year
warranty (for what that's worth), maybe they insist on thicker
board.

Before anyone says it, I know I should be talking to the tile
guy, I really just like to get the scoop from you so I know
what the problem might be. I appreciate the info.

Side note: Me personally, I would not use anything but cement board
behind tile in a bathroom, although some people use mold resistant
drywall with success. It is however harder to work with than drywall,
you can't score and snap, you have to cut it with a saw.

I had the bathroom done some 20 years ago. The guy wanted to just
keep the cruddy drywall that was there from the 50s, hell no. To the
studs. He put green board in the whole room. I haven't had any
problem whatsoever with mold or whatever.

Perhaps if I wind up hiring a guy to oversee all the details that
the tile people don't take care of, it's a consideration to replace
the rest.

nancy