N8N wrote in
:

On Jan 12, 12:17*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/12/2012 7:12 AM, Nancy Young wrote:





On 1/12/2012 9:49 AM, Pointer wrote:
On 1/12/2012 9:45 AM, Nancy Young wrote:
I'm confused, I hope you can set me straight on something.
Here goes:

But they need to put backer board around the tub area and
it needs to extend past the current tile where there is
now just painted wall, to reach a stud. Check.

This is where I don't follow and I should have gotten him
to explain.

Why can't I (or a sheetrock guy) just tape the seam where the
backer board and the sheetrock meet? Is backer board thicker
or thinner than the green board that's already up?

The joint needs the support of the stud to avoid cracking at the
seam.

I do understand that. I don't understand why they need to tile
up to that seam. I do apologize that I wasn't clear.

He's telling me they would have to tile wherever this backer
board is, and I don't understand why they can't just tile up
to a certain point and I could have the seam covered with tape,
etc, then painted, and you wouldn't see that it was a different
material under the paint job.

nancy

you can do whatever you want. *It's YOUR house. *Just tell them what
you
want done. *Yes, what you propose will work. *The backerboard will ha
ve
to have a skim coat of drywall mud in order to blend in with the
sheetrock. *Shouldn't be any different than any other taped joint for
a
n
experienced drywall person.

And to clarify, cement board comes in different thicknesses for the
exact reason that you can select the CB that you need to butt up
against your existing drywall or cement board nicely.

Half inch Hardie backer (HardieBacker 500) is .42".


Side note: Me personally, I would not use anything but cement board
behind tile in a bathroom, although some people use mold resistant
drywall with success. It is however harder to work with than drywall,
you can't score and snap, you have to cut it with a saw.

nate