In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?


Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple comparison.
I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need it for voltage
and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke with my knowledge
(tho I might dream of having it). Thanks again...you guys are great
help !!!!

Doug wrote:

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple comparison.
I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need it for voltage
and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke with my knowledge
(tho I might dream of having it). Thanks again...you guys are great
help !!!!

Fluke is top of the line, take care of it and it will last you a long
time. I have a Fluke 87 that I got in '88 or so and it still works
great, probably why the 87 is still made last I looked (now series III).

On 2012-01-08, Doug wrote:

starters lets say $100 (estimate).

Fluke! ....nuff said.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

On Jan 8, 2:49*pm, notbob wrote:
On 2012-01-08, Doug wrote:

starters lets say $100 (estimate).

Fluke! ....nuff said.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

I know that I may be laughed off the net, but nevertheless I can
recommend Radio Shack for decent inexpensive digital multimeters. I
have 3 of them: one I use for everyday hacking around on my workbench,
a second one that's a little more sophisticated, and a third even
fancier one that, I admit, I hardly use at all. I've had all 3 for
several years. The first one, on the bench, I have had for many, many
years, and it still functions very well and quite satisfactorily, a
real rugged, sturdy work horse. I don't know what the current Shack
lineup is, but I've been content with the models I have from them.
JimCo

Pete C. wrote:
Doug wrote:

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but
for starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but
it's old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple comparison.
I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need it for voltage
and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke with my knowledge
(tho I might dream of having it). Thanks again...you guys are
great help !!!!

Fluke is top of the line, take care of it and it will last you a long
time. I have a Fluke 87 that I got in '88 or so and it still works
great, probably why the 87 is still made last I looked (now series
III).

Or, for what you say, the $3 one at Harbor Freight.

On Jan 8, 3:15*pm, JimCo wrote:
On Jan 8, 2:49*pm, notbob wrote:

On 2012-01-08, Doug wrote:

starters lets say $100 (estimate).

Fluke! ....nuff said.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

I know that I may be laughed off the net, but nevertheless I can
recommend Radio Shack for decent inexpensive digital multimeters. I
have 3 of them: one I use for everyday hacking around on my workbench,
a second one that's a little more sophisticated, and a third even
fancier one that, I admit, I hardly use at all. I've had all 3 for
several years. The first one, on the bench, I have had for many, many
years, and it still functions very well and quite satisfactorily, a
real rugged, sturdy work horse. I don't know what the current Shack
lineup is, but I've been content with the models I have from them.
JimCo

I vote for buying or getting free with a coupon the Harbor Freight
digital meters. They are cheap, yes, but work fine and if you should
drop it you don't have many $$ to lose. I have used everything from
$500 instruments to my free HF, and the HF is just fine for everyday
use around the house. In a scientific laboratory, no, but the OP is
looking to learn and free beats the heck out of $100 or higher.

On 1/8/2012 4:17 PM, Bob F wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Doug wrote:

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600,
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but
for starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but
it's old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple comparison.
I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need it for voltage
and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke with my knowledge
(tho I might dream of having it). Thanks again...you guys are
great help !!!!

Fluke is top of the line, take care of it and it will last you a long
time. I have a Fluke 87 that I got in '88 or so and it still works
great, probably why the 87 is still made last I looked (now series
III).

Or, for what you say, the $3 one at Harbor Freight.


The $5.00 one at harbor freight had a faulty display and then a lead not
property secured to the probe ... result, blown breaker.

On Jan 8, 2:03*pm, "Doug" wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? *I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). * I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? * Not sure what this means? * You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Use Flukes at work and no doubt they are a great relaible and accurate
meter. I have a $30 meter at home, dont know the name but I have had
it for about 20 years. It still works great too. I prefer meters that
will measure capacitance because you can tell which end of a cable has
a broken wire.if it can measure wire to wire capacitance otherwise all
you can tell is that the wire is open.

Jimmie

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:29:21 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?


Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple comparison.
I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need it for voltage
and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke with my knowledge
(tho I might dream of having it). Thanks again...you guys are great
help !!!!
Buy a simple $30 (or less) multimeter from your local haredware,
radio shack, or harbour freight style shop. Anything more, for your
purposes and use, will be a total waste.

I have a $200 bench tester and a handfull of lesser units - a $10 one
travels with me in each vehicle, and another in my tool ox.

On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 13:48:36 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 8, 3:15*pm, JimCo wrote:
On Jan 8, 2:49*pm, notbob wrote:

On 2012-01-08, Doug wrote:

starters lets say $100 (estimate).

Fluke! ....nuff said.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

I know that I may be laughed off the net, but nevertheless I can
recommend Radio Shack for decent inexpensive digital multimeters. I
have 3 of them: one I use for everyday hacking around on my workbench,
a second one that's a little more sophisticated, and a third even
fancier one that, I admit, I hardly use at all. I've had all 3 for
several years. The first one, on the bench, I have had for many, many
years, and it still functions very well and quite satisfactorily, a
real rugged, sturdy work horse. I don't know what the current Shack
lineup is, but I've been content with the models I have from them.
JimCo

I vote for buying or getting free with a coupon the Harbor Freight
digital meters. They are cheap, yes, but work fine and if you should
drop it you don't have many $$ to lose. I have used everything from
$500 instruments to my free HF, and the HF is just fine for everyday
use around the house. In a scientific laboratory, no, but the OP is
looking to learn and free beats the heck out of $100 or higher.

I think there is something to be said for starting off with a cheap
meter. For one thing, most people connnect them wrong a few times
before leaning to be more careful, so they'll only be burning out (one
range of a) cheap meter. (There is overvoltage protection on a lot
of meters, especially expensive ones, but I odn't know who well it
works.) One can burn out a part of a meter by setting it to too low a
range, and even on self-ranging, can't one damage the meter by trying
to measure resistance when there is 20 vdc or 110 vac present?

Then there is the meter I left in the engine compartment connected to
the battery. I didn't remember it until I checked the oil in
Missouri.

For another, very few uses of a beginner require precise measurement.
Plus or minus 20% is good enough, because in most cases, if the value
is within 30% of what it's supposed to be, it will be just what it's
supposed to be. For voltage and resistance. Most people don't
measure current very often, but it's even more true for current, which
usually isn't rated, so any reasonable value is thought to be correct
and is probably accurate enough.

When most electric things** break they break completely. Yes, there
are times when that's not true, and times when a tenth of a volt
matters, but then after using his head to reach conclusions, the OP
can buy another, better meter. **I guess semiconductors are named
after semi-conductinng, but the OP won't be working on them this year.
Maybe the power suppoly or the speakers but not the internal circuits.

Finally, the only big problem with the 4 dollar HF meters is that they
don't have an audible continuity tester. But it took me a year or two
to notcie that. A 20 dollar rado shack meter is okay too, or the 24
dollar at Lowes or HD.

Whenever I'm down in the dumps I buy musyelf another screwdriver.
Sometimes a meter. My most expensive is about 60.

When he has bigger uses, he'll know what he wants and how much it is
worth it.

Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Harbor Freight sells one for about a buck-ninety-eight. It's more than
adequate to determine if a wire is hot, open windings in a motor, and other
simple inquiries.

If you need to determine the voltage drop across an inductor under load so
you can compute the reactive capacitance of fluxations in the galactic core,
the HF model is probably not the instrument of choice.

On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 18:19:04 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Harbor Freight sells one for about a buck-ninety-eight. It's more than
adequate to determine if a wire is hot, open windings in a motor, and other
simple inquiries.

If you need to determine the voltage drop across an inductor under load so
you can compute the reactive capacitance of fluxations in the galactic core,
the HF model is probably not the instrument of choice.


There is it, Doug. Do you want to determine the voltage drop across
an inductor under load so you can compute the reactive capacitance of
fluxations in the galactic core?

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, Doug wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of electricity
(tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital multimeter and where to
buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for starters lets say $100
(estimate). I had a old analog one but it's old and right now I can't
find it so I'm willing to buy new.

I've got an Amprobe digital one - 33XR-A I think (without going to go and
find it, but having done a quick google). I think it was about 80 bucks.

It handles capacitance, frequency and temperature along with all the
usual things you'd expect a meter to do. It's not auto-ranging (for some
reason I've always preferred meters that aren't).

It comes with self-tangling leads, just as all multimeters do. ;-)

cheers

Jules

Doug wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy?

Doug, you're going to get lots of answers.

But the only real useful answer is this:

Asking for recommendations for digital multimeters is like asking for
recommendations for calculators. The meters available at retail in your
area are going to be different than the ones available in my area and
different for someone else's area.

There's no magic meters here. You can buy a meter for a few bucks, to
over $100.

Yes, I'm sure Radio Shaft has an acceptible line-up of meters. Might
even be consistent across the same region - or even across the whole
country.

If you're in California (and maybe Arizona) then have a look at Fry's
and see what they have.

Any $10 or $15 meter will be fine for the average home owner. If you
want to get fancy, buy one that comes with a temperature probe and use
it to impress your guests when you're having a barbecue.

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The boys and I were doing that at NASSA just this week.

At this web page, is a link to a Youtube video. Some of the language
(briefly so) is R-rated. But, unkown to me, people in the USA had been doing
moon shots before NASA got there. These hard working and courageous people
had been ignored because of prejudice and racism. Here, you can see some
long forgotten heros of the USA history. Long forgotten, until now.

http://www.negrospaceprogram.com/


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"micky" wrote in message
...


Harbor Freight sells one for about a buck-ninety-eight. It's more than
adequate to determine if a wire is hot, open windings in a motor, and other
simple inquiries.

If you need to determine the voltage drop across an inductor under load so
you can compute the reactive capacitance of fluxations in the galactic
core,
the HF model is probably not the instrument of choice.


There is it, Doug. Do you want to determine the voltage drop across
an inductor under load so you can compute the reactive capacitance of
fluxations in the galactic core?

On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. It's that
simple. You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 19:24:43 -0500, micky
wrote:

On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 18:19:04 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Harbor Freight sells one for about a buck-ninety-eight. It's more than
adequate to determine if a wire is hot, open windings in a motor, and other
simple inquiries.

If you need to determine the voltage drop across an inductor under load so
you can compute the reactive capacitance of fluxations in the galactic core,
the HF model is probably not the instrument of choice.


There is it, Doug. Do you want to determine the voltage drop across
an inductor under load so you can compute the reactive capacitance of
fluxations in the galactic core?


If I could understand this .... well then yes grin but...
right now NO.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, "Doug"
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but for
starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but it's
old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?



As to not prolong this thread any more, I think you guys have more
than answered it enough ... at least to my expectation. Thanks all
( too many to individually name !!! )

On 9 Jan 2012 01:18:37 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. It's that
simple. You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb
I've got 2 Eicos and another cheap one I've owned and used for over
25 years that are still just fine. Been through about 6 sets of leads
between them - but other than that they are fine.
I've got a cheap chinese clampon (AC) meter the daughters got me for
christmas a few years ago, as well as a DC clamp-on Hastings DE1000 -
the most expensive and least reliable/accurate one I've got.

My "bench" meter is a Micronta 22-195A AUTORANGING with nin-max
memory etc. Bought it in '86.
I hace a "power fist" DT9208 - Princess Auto special - similar to
Harbor Freight - Paid about $30 on sale - reads thermocouples,
measures capacitors, up to 20 amps, frequency and transistor hFE, as
well as acting as a logic probe.
About half a dozen Princess Auto / discount electronics store meters
purchaced for between $4.99 and $19.00. Only one "dud" over the years.

Pointer wrote:
On 1/8/2012 4:17 PM, Bob F wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Doug wrote:

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600,
wrote:

In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but
for starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one
but it's old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy
new. Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't
need to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You still
need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in
question, right, so the meter can read the differences?

Doing some quick research what do you think of
a) Fluke 115 Compact True-RMS Digital Multimeter or
b) RSR Environmental Tester + Multi Function DMM

These are not priced the same so maybe not apple to apple
comparison. I'm not going to use it a lot and I really just need
it for voltage and continuity checking. Don't need a $400 Fluke
with my knowledge (tho I might dream of having it). Thanks
again...you guys are great help !!!!

Fluke is top of the line, take care of it and it will last you a
long time. I have a Fluke 87 that I got in '88 or so and it still
works great, probably why the 87 is still made last I looked (now
series III).

Or, for what you say, the $3 one at Harbor Freight.


The $5.00 one at harbor freight had a faulty display and then a lead
not property secured to the probe ... result, blown breaker.

Every one I've used has worked fine. But they were the $3 ones, so I guess price
matters.

wrote:
I have a $200 bench tester and a handfull of lesser units - a $10 one
travels with me in each vehicle, and another in my tool ox.

I could use a tool ox for some of my heavier tools.

On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 18:47:43 -0500, wrote Re
recommended digital multimeter:

Buy a simple $30 (or less) multimeter from your local haredware,
radio shack, or harbour freight style shop. Anything more, for your
purposes and use, will be a total waste.

Good advice.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 13:17:58 -0800, Bob F wrote:
Fluke is top of the line, take care of it and it will last you a long
time.

I have a Fluke 75 that must have been bought in the middle to late 80s and,
other than replacing the button battery at about every ten years, it has
been working fine.

Just get the protective rubber bumper and the all the (very expensive) test
leads you can find (you'll wish over the next 30 years that you had done
so) and a case.

On Jan 8, 6:33*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of electricity
(tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital multimeter and where to
buy? *I have no idea what my budget is but for starters lets say $100
(estimate). * I had a old analog one but it's old and right now I can't
find it so I'm willing to buy new.

I've got an Amprobe digital one - 33XR-A I think (without going to go and
find it, but having done a quick google). I think it was about 80 bucks.

It handles capacitance, frequency and temperature along with all the
usual things you'd expect a meter to do. It's not auto-ranging (for some
reason I've always preferred meters that aren't).

It comes with self-tangling leads, just as all multimeters do. ;-)

cheers

Jules

It usually takes my meters a couple of uses before the self-tangling
feature is activatedG.

On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 11:55:34 -0800 (PST), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Jan 8, 6:33Â*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Sun, 08 Jan 2012 13:03:42 -0600, Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of electricity
(tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital multimeter and where to
buy? Â*I have no idea what my budget is but for starters lets say $100
(estimate). Â* I had a old analog one but it's old and right now I can't
find it so I'm willing to buy new.

I've got an Amprobe digital one - 33XR-A I think (without going to go and
find it, but having done a quick google). I think it was about 80 bucks.

It handles capacitance, frequency and temperature along with all the
usual things you'd expect a meter to do. It's not auto-ranging (for some
reason I've always preferred meters that aren't).

It comes with self-tangling leads, just as all multimeters do. ;-)

cheers

Jules

It usually takes my meters a couple of uses before the self-tangling
feature is activatedG.
Mine activates just about as soon as it is put in my toolbox.

"HeyBub" wrote in
:

Doug wrote:
In view of my infrequent repairs and my limited knowledge of
electricity (tho I can learn), what is a recommended digital
multimeter and where to buy? I have no idea what my budget is but
for starters lets say $100 (estimate). I had a old analog one but
it's old and right now I can't find it so I'm willing to buy new.

Also, when I read one ad, it said the digital multimeter didn't need
to make contact with the diode? Not sure what this means? You
still need to have I assume 2 wires to touch the things in question,
right, so the meter can read the differences?

Harbor Freight sells one for about a buck-ninety-eight. It's more than
adequate to determine if a wire is hot, open windings in a motor, and
other simple inquiries.

If you need to determine the voltage drop across an inductor under
load so you can compute the reactive capacitance of fluxations in the
galactic core, the HF model is probably not the instrument of choice.


Second that. For general-purpose handyman use, those Harbor Freight cheapies are hard to beat.
Since they're so cheap, I bought about half a dozen. One in the garage, one in the workshop, one in
my toolbox, gave one to each of my sons...

On Jan 8, 9:10*pm, wrote:
On 9 Jan 2012 01:18:37 GMT, notbob wrote:





On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. *If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. *The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. *I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. *It's that
simple. *You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

*I've got 2 Eicos and another cheap one I've owned and used for over
25 years that are still just fine. Been through about 6 sets of leads
between them - but other than that they are fine.
I've got a cheap chinese clampon (AC) meter the daughters got me for
christmas a few years ago, as well as a DC clamp-on Hastings DE1000 -
the most expensive and least reliable/accurate one I've got.

*My "bench" meter is a Micronta *22-195A AUTORANGING *with nin-max
memory etc. Bought it in '86.
I hace a "power fist" DT9208 - Princess Auto special - similar to
Harbor Freight - Paid about $30 on sale - reads *thermocouples,
measures capacitors, up to 20 amps, frequency and transistor hFE, as
well as acting as a logic probe.
*About half a dozen *Princess Auto / discount electronics store meters
purchaced for between $4.99 and $19.00. Only one "dud" over the years.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm glad you mentioned Micronta as your bench meter. In my original
post I said Radio Shack meters, but in fact mine are also Micronta
meters that I bought from Radio Shack many years ago. I guess that
Micronta was a trade name Radio Shack used at the time. At any rate,
I think that I'll have to withdraw my nomination for the shack's
CURRENT lineup of meters. I looked thm up on their website, and they
no longer mention Micronta. In fact, all their current meters have
received truly miserable reviews from customers. So I know that I
wouldn't be tempted to buy them anymore. They're considerably cheaper
in price than the Micronta ones I bought years ago. Those were in the
range of 80 to $100 at that time.
JimCo

On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 19:13:22 -0800 (PST), JimCo
wrote:

On Jan 8, 9:10Â*pm, wrote:
On 9 Jan 2012 01:18:37 GMT, notbob wrote:





On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. Â*If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. Â*The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. Â*I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. Â*It's that
simple. Â*You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

Â*I've got 2 Eicos and another cheap one I've owned and used for over
25 years that are still just fine. Been through about 6 sets of leads
between them - but other than that they are fine.
I've got a cheap chinese clampon (AC) meter the daughters got me for
christmas a few years ago, as well as a DC clamp-on Hastings DE1000 -
the most expensive and least reliable/accurate one I've got.

Â*My "bench" meter is a Micronta Â*22-195A AUTORANGING Â*with nin-max
memory etc. Bought it in '86.
I hace a "power fist" DT9208 - Princess Auto special - similar to
Harbor Freight - Paid about $30 on sale - reads Â*thermocouples,
measures capacitors, up to 20 amps, frequency and transistor hFE, as
well as acting as a logic probe.
Â*About half a dozen Â*Princess Auto / discount electronics store meters
purchaced for between $4.99 and $19.00. Only one "dud" over the years.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm glad you mentioned Micronta as your bench meter. In my original
post I said Radio Shack meters, but in fact mine are also Micronta
meters that I bought from Radio Shack many years ago. I guess that
Micronta was a trade name Radio Shack used at the time. At any rate,
I think that I'll have to withdraw my nomination for the shack's
CURRENT lineup of meters. I looked thm up on their website, and they
no longer mention Micronta. In fact, all their current meters have
received truly miserable reviews from customers. So I know that I
wouldn't be tempted to buy them anymore. They're considerably cheaper
in price than the Micronta ones I bought years ago. Those were in the
range of 80 to $100 at that time.
JimCo
I think I paid $89 for mine.

Forgot another one I've got sitting around. Non functional at this
time - A heathkit IM-11 VTVM.

On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 20:21:09 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

wrote:
I have a $200 bench tester and a handfull of lesser units - a $10 one
travels with me in each vehicle, and another in my tool ox.

I could use a tool ox for some of my heavier tools.

I got one a couple years ago, but I if I don't drive very slow, he
can't keep up.

On Jan 9, 9:38*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 19:13:22 -0800 (PST), JimCo
wrote:





On Jan 8, 9:10*pm, wrote:
On 9 Jan 2012 01:18:37 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. *If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. *The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. *I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. *It's that
simple. *You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

*I've got 2 Eicos and another cheap one I've owned and used for over
25 years that are still just fine. Been through about 6 sets of leads
between them - but other than that they are fine.
I've got a cheap chinese clampon (AC) meter the daughters got me for
christmas a few years ago, as well as a DC clamp-on Hastings DE1000 -
the most expensive and least reliable/accurate one I've got.

*My "bench" meter is a Micronta *22-195A AUTORANGING *with nin-max
memory etc. Bought it in '86.
I hace a "power fist" DT9208 - Princess Auto special - similar to
Harbor Freight - Paid about $30 on sale - reads *thermocouples,
measures capacitors, up to 20 amps, frequency and transistor hFE, as
well as acting as a logic probe.
*About half a dozen *Princess Auto / discount electronics store meters
purchaced for between $4.99 and $19.00. Only one "dud" over the years.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm glad you mentioned Micronta as your bench meter. In my original
post I said Radio Shack meters, but in fact mine are also Micronta
meters that I bought from Radio Shack many years ago. I guess that
Micronta was *a trade name Radio Shack used at the time. At any rate,
I think that I'll have to withdraw my nomination for the shack's
CURRENT lineup of meters. I looked thm up on their website, and they
no longer mention Micronta. In fact, all their current meters have
received truly miserable reviews from customers. So I know that I
wouldn't be tempted to buy them anymore. They're considerably cheaper
in price than the Micronta ones I bought years ago. Those were in the
range of 80 to $100 at that time.
JimCo

*I think I paid $89 for mine.

Forgot another one I've got sitting around. Non functional at this
time - A heathkit IM-11 VTVM.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, but that is an analog meter. I had one a long time ago, and it
didn't last very long. The probe broke, and the range switches soon
got to the point where their contacts were so poor that you had to
jiggle the daylights out of them to make contact.
JimCo

notbob wrote:
On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. It's that
simple. You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

Cheaper are easier to replace, but if your in the field, you need
reliability.

I did one of those things once where you go to a place to have a discussion
group, and you get paid for participating. Easy money. It was all about
discussing multimeters. Big table in room with chairs around, some
moderator, and a glass window with secret people behind. I was not suppose
to tell, but it's been some time, it was fluke behind the window. I think I
was the only electronic technician. They were wanting to know what
technicians wanted and how they used the meters. I think the biggest point
was meters and leads. Wanted more automatic setups.

Greg

wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jan 2012 19:13:22 -0800 (PST), JimCo
wrote:

On Jan 8, 9:10 pm, wrote:
On 9 Jan 2012 01:18:37 GMT, notbob wrote:





On 2012-01-09, Home Guy wrote:

A $40 or $50 meter will be fine for a moderately advanced home engineer
/ hobbyist.

The botton line is regularity of use and ruggedness of construction.
If you're only gonna use it a few times per year, get a cheapo at
Radio Shack. If you are going to start building electical kits or
trouble shooting your car/motorcycle, house wiring, etc, and end up
using it every day or several times per week, spend the money on one
that can take the repeated use/abuse.

It's not about accuracy or the most features, it's about reliability.
Cheapo meters will not last. The connectors will fail, the switches
will short out, the display will become iffy. I know, as I used to
maintain production floor tools, including multi-meters, at two high
tech mfg companies.

Cheap meters fall apart sooner than more expensive meters. It's that
simple. You decide which is most suited to your application and
wallet.

nb

I've got 2 Eicos and another cheap one I've owned and used for over
25 years that are still just fine. Been through about 6 sets of leads
between them - but other than that they are fine.
I've got a cheap chinese clampon (AC) meter the daughters got me for
christmas a few years ago, as well as a DC clamp-on Hastings DE1000 -
the most expensive and least reliable/accurate one I've got.

My "bench" meter is a Micronta 22-195A AUTORANGING with nin-max
memory etc. Bought it in '86.
I hace a "power fist" DT9208 - Princess Auto special - similar to
Harbor Freight - Paid about $30 on sale - reads thermocouples,
measures capacitors, up to 20 amps, frequency and transistor hFE, as
well as acting as a logic probe.
About half a dozen Princess Auto / discount electronics store meters
purchaced for between $4.99 and $19.00. Only one "dud" over the years.-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm glad you mentioned Micronta as your bench meter. In my original
post I said Radio Shack meters, but in fact mine are also Micronta
meters that I bought from Radio Shack many years ago. I guess that
Micronta was a trade name Radio Shack used at the time. At any rate,
I think that I'll have to withdraw my nomination for the shack's
CURRENT lineup of meters. I looked thm up on their website, and they
no longer mention Micronta. In fact, all their current meters have
received truly miserable reviews from customers. So I know that I
wouldn't be tempted to buy them anymore. They're considerably cheaper
in price than the Micronta ones I bought years ago. Those were in the
range of 80 to $100 at that time.
JimCo
I think I paid $89 for mine.

Forgot another one I've got sitting around. Non functional at this
time - A heathkit IM-11 VTVM.

I got a b&k bench, actually a tripplet meter. It has all the bells and
whistles, but I got to fix one of the 30 some push buttons. Got a Heath
vtvm. My first vtvm, an EICO. Got two of the famous radio shack range
doublers, analog. An early micronta digital meter, with manual range.
Sometimes you need manual range.
I got a triplet analog workhorse. I got a micronta pen. Got off brand LC
meter, and others. Not sure, but I think I may have a RCA senior
voltohmest.
My heavy duty prize is an amprobe analog clamp meter with voltage jacks,
found inside a piece of equipment I was working on.

Greg

"hr(bob) " wrote:
On Jan 8, 3:15 pm, JimCo wrote:
On Jan 8, 2:49 pm, notbob wrote:

On 2012-01-08, Doug wrote:

starters lets say $100 (estimate).

Fluke! ....nuff said.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

I know that I may be laughed off the net, but nevertheless I can
recommend Radio Shack for decent inexpensive digital multimeters. I
have 3 of them: one I use for everyday hacking around on my workbench,
a second one that's a little more sophisticated, and a third even
fancier one that, I admit, I hardly use at all. I've had all 3 for
several years. The first one, on the bench, I have had for many, many
years, and it still functions very well and quite satisfactorily, a
real rugged, sturdy work horse. I don't know what the current Shack
lineup is, but I've been content with the models I have from them.
JimCo

I vote for buying or getting free with a coupon the Harbor Freight
digital meters. They are cheap, yes, but work fine and if you should
drop it you don't have many $$ to lose. I have used everything from
$500 instruments to my free HF, and the HF is just fine for everyday
use around the house. In a scientific laboratory, no, but the OP is
looking to learn and free beats the heck out of $100 or higher.

How many meter have I used and or bought? Many. Sure I really like the one
at work, fluke $300-400. Have a couple of the cheap HF meters. Sometimes I
prefer to use an analog meter, especially measuring over 1 kv. Sometimes a
vtvm to measure 1 g ohm. My favorite toy right now is a HF meter, about
$40.
I think it has rpm and or frequency measurement. Also a light meter. Also
built in temperature and humidity. Also built in sound meter. The lead
connectors light up to indicate proper jacks. It also tells when to take a
coffee break!!!!

Greg

On 2012-01-10, gregz wrote:

I did one of those things once where you go to a place to have a discussion
group, and you get paid for participating. Easy money. It was all about
discussing multimeters. Big table in room with chairs around, some
moderator, and a glass window with secret people behind. I was not suppose
to tell, but it's been some time, it was fluke behind the window. I think I
was the only electronic technician. They were wanting to know what
technicians wanted and how they used the meters. I think the biggest point
was meters and leads. Wanted more automatic setups.

Not surprising. Flukes are pretty much bullet proof.

The first company I worked for, a small one, had about a dozen
multimeters, all different brands. They were used by everyone from
assemblers to engineers, from a big double tool box. They were
heavily used/abused. B*Ks, Simpsons, etc. Most of the meters were
iffy with bad connectors. Workbench drawers were littered with dead
meters of many brands, from expensive to cheap. None were Flukes.

The next company was a major Silicon Valley player. Our division
alone musta had about 70 meters, all Flukes, which I eventually became
responsible for, making sure everyone had a good one with good leads
and they were all current in their calibration. Out of all those
Flukes, also heavily used/abused, only one failed in the 4 yrs I was
there. I had one manual button Fluke that was so old, the frosting on
the display had wore out and you could see all the traces in the LC
display, which was still working and perfectly readable. Never once
encountered iffy connector sockets on a Fluke.

My own meter is a Fluke 8020B, no longer made, which I picked up used
at a pawn shop. Works perfectly.

http://www.teknetelectronics.com/Sea...262&pDo=DETAIL

No doubt, I'll pass it on to my grandkids.

BTW, Fluke did go pretty much all auto-ranging. I don't think they
even make a manual button model, anymore. I know Fluke is pretty
expensive, most of their stuff outta my price range, but you can get a
used one on ebay fer under $100 and you'll have a meter for life.

nb

--
vi --the root of evil

gregz wrote in

g:


How many meter have I used and or bought? Many. Sure I really like the
one at work, fluke $300-400. Have a couple of the cheap HF meters.
Sometimes I prefer to use an analog meter, especially measuring over 1
kv. Sometimes a vtvm to measure 1 g ohm. My favorite toy right now is
a HF meter, about $40.
I think it has rpm and or frequency measurement. Also a light meter.
Also built in temperature and humidity. Also built in sound meter. The
lead connectors light up to indicate proper jacks. It also tells when
to take a coffee break!!!!

Greg


the first $3 HF DMM I bought was WAY off in voltage reading.
I took it back and the replacement was a bit more accurate.

BTW,it's input-Z is only 1 MegR.
most DMMs are 10MegR or better,less circuit loading.

and it's input jacks are prone to cracked solder joints.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

"JimCo" wrote in message news:cac04a68-90d9-461a-88ed-

I know that I may be laughed off the net, but nevertheless I can
recommend Radio Shack for decent inexpensive digital multimeters. I
have 3 of them: one I use for everyday hacking around on my workbench,
a second one that's a little more sophisticated, and a third even
fancier one that, I admit, I hardly use at all. I've had all 3 for
several years. The first one, on the bench, I have had for many, many
years, and it still functions very well and quite satisfactorily, a
real rugged, sturdy work horse. I don't know what the current Shack
lineup is, but I've been content with the models I have from them.
JimCo

I won't laugh. I have two 25-year-old Radio Shack PC interface models that
having been running trouble-free for years. They came with RS232 cables and
a simple logging program that has been incredibly useful. They were made by
Metex. I recently bought two more of the newer Ratshack PC interface units
from Ebay and they seem to be nice, sturdy units with easy-to-read displays,
lots of extra features like capacitor and transistor checkers, audible
continuity, auto-shutoff, frequency counters, up to 10A current readings,
etc.

--
Bobby G.