Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll take
what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It will of
course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there a
generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll
take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It
will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there
a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA


Abatron makes architectural a wood rot some of which is intended for
outdoor use. A bit on the expensive side but it works very well. Rot
Doctor is another brand but Abatron seems to be the more recommended brand.

Short of that, I have used epoxy thinned with acetone to soak into a
rotted spot with good results although I have not used it for outdoor
problems.

Good Luck.

"Baron" wrote in message
om...
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll
take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It
will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there
a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA


Abatron makes architectural a wood rot some of which is intended for
outdoor use. A bit on the expensive side but it works very well. Rot
Doctor is another brand but Abatron seems to be the more recommended
brand.

Short of that, I have used epoxy thinned with acetone to soak into a
rotted spot with good results although I have not used it for outdoor
problems.

The biggest trick outdoors is to get the rotten wood totally dry and to keep
it dry at least until the epoxy material is hardened.

On Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:01:49 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll take
what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It will of
course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there a
generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?

From what I've seen-- and I haven't see it all, I'm sure;
fillers, fill[but don't bond well]; putties stay softish; epoxies bind
to the wood and get rock hard.

Structural epoxies? Haven't heard the term.

Someone will recommend a popular auto body filler. That company
makes a wood filler. The advantage is that the wood filler isn't a
sponge that rots out all the surrounding wood.

I like Rot Doctor. it is damned expensive. But it works. You only
need to do the job once on a lifetime.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/

I've used it on a 50 yr old wooden boat and on a 30 year old garage
door. Worked great in both places.

Jim

On 8/9/2011 3:46 PM, EXT wrote:

"Baron" wrote in message
om...
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --
I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood)
and would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with
some mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc),
but I'll take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole
boards, etc. It will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is
there a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA


Abatron makes architectural a wood rot some of which is intended for
outdoor use. A bit on the expensive side but it works very well. Rot
Doctor is another brand but Abatron seems to be the more recommended
brand.

Short of that, I have used epoxy thinned with acetone to soak into a
rotted spot with good results although I have not used it for outdoor
problems.

The biggest trick outdoors is to get the rotten wood totally dry and to
keep it dry at least until the epoxy material is hardened.

I agree and think epoxy is over kill. You can probably use something
much cheaper akin to auto-body filler which is polyester.

Existential Angst wrote:

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood)
and would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with
some mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc)

PL Premium:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/p...a_prem_adv.png

It's a polyurethane based adhesive manufactured for the construction
industry.

Apparently Loctite claims it's their product, but I've also seen it
badged as "LePage".

I've used it on exterior wood (fence posts, etc) and it's the best
non-marine wood adhesive there is. Because it comes in a caulking-gun
cartridge (both the small and large size) it will fill any voids you can
force it into.

It has the look and consistency of hot caramel or thick pudding. It
LIKES to be applied to wet wood - it hardens because of the presence of
water. (ie - a wet or damp surface, not soaking wet). It will expand
as it cures - I think it forms small air cells or voids if it's used as
a void filler.

If possible, use clamps on what-ever you're filling so that it doesn't
force it open or distort it as it cures.

Word of warning: Try not to get this on your skin. I don't find it
irritating, but it's a bitch to get off. I use lacquer thinner soaked
into a small rag or paper towel to clean it off my hands and anything
else that it gets on, and I do it immediately after I'm done working
with it. Gasoline will also work as a cleaning solvent.

It will of course be painted.

I don't know about painting - I think I've painted over it with
oil-based paint in the past. It sets in about 2 to 4 hours at room
temp, and it's practically fully cured after 24 hours - although if
applied as a large gap-filler (more than 1/4" thick) then the center
will take more time to cure.

It can be sanded after it's cured, but you may not get a smooth surface
on account of the air bubbles that form inside it. But that's solved by
applying a fresh (thin) coating of it to the exposed irregular surface
and give it another sanding when that cures.

On Aug 9, 7:04*pm, Home Guy wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:
I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood)
and would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with
some mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc)

PL Premium:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/img/p...a_prem_adv.png

It's a polyurethane based adhesive manufactured for the construction
industry.

Apparently Loctite claims it's their product, but I've also seen it
badged as "LePage".

I've used it on exterior wood (fence posts, etc) and it's the best
non-marine wood adhesive there is. *Because it comes in a caulking-gun
cartridge (both the small and large size) it will fill any voids you can
force it into.

It has the look and consistency of hot caramel or thick pudding. *It
LIKES to be applied to wet wood - it hardens because of the presence of
water. *(ie - a wet or damp surface, not soaking wet). *It will expand
as it cures - I think it forms small air cells or voids if it's used as
a void filler.

If possible, use clamps on what-ever you're filling so that it doesn't
force it open or distort it as it cures.

Word of warning: *Try not to get this on your skin. *I don't find it
irritating, but it's a bitch to get off. *I use lacquer thinner soaked
into a small rag or paper towel to clean it off my hands and anything
else that it gets on, and I do it immediately after I'm done working
with it. *Gasoline will also work as a cleaning solvent.

It will of course be painted.

I don't know about painting - I think I've painted over it with
oil-based paint in the past. *It sets in about 2 to 4 hours at room
temp, and it's practically fully cured after 24 hours - although if
applied as a large gap-filler (more than 1/4" thick) then the center
will take more time to cure. *

It can be sanded after it's cured, but you may not get a smooth surface
on account of the air bubbles that form inside it. *But that's solved by
applying a fresh (thin) coating of it to the exposed irregular surface
and give it another sanding when that cures.

I saw some stuff at Menards the other day, purely by accident. There
was a material to be applied to help dry out the wood, and then a
finishing sort of stuff. It was in the paint and glue and caulking
compund area of the store.

On Aug 9, 3:01*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll take
what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. *It will of
course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. *Is there a
generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? *Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?

Git Rot
&
Bondo or any two part epoxy or polyester resin

R

On Aug 9, 12:01*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll take
what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. *It will of
course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. *Is there a
generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? *Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA

Sure fix: Abatron Wood Epox & Liquid Wood
Cheap fix: Bondo

I've used both Bondo & Abatron...... 25 years ago.

Redwood window sills....Bondo failed in a couple seasons, Abatron
still sound.
Your choice.

Cheers
Bob

On Aug 11, 12:33*am, DD_BobK wrote:
On Aug 9, 12:01*pm, "Existential Angst" wrote:





Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll take
what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. *It will of
course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. *Is there a
generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? *Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?
--
EA

Sure fix: *Abatron Wood Epox & Liquid Wood
Cheap fix: Bondo

I've used both Bondo & Abatron...... 25 years ago.

Redwood window sills....Bondo failed in a couple seasons, Abatron
still sound.
Your choice.

Cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Polyester resin is a pain to work with for my 2c. It fires all at
once or never fires. Epoxy is way more forgiving and will always
eventually harden. Plus you can select a hardener to suit your
working time needs. Only down side is epoxy is more expensive that
polyester.

I buy from US Composites.

For penetration I add about 10% alcohol after mixing the resin and
hardener. Epoxy will still work on wet wood but you get better
penetration if you can dry it. I leave a fan pointed at it for a
couple days.

For filler you can mix just about anything with epoxy. Chopped
fiberglass, micro balloons, talcum powder, sawdust, etc. Again mix
the resin and hardener first then add the filler.

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll
take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It
will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there
a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?

Appreciate all the tips, ideas. Shore beats the putty that assholes have
been using on my house.
In the case of the planking in an englich tudor, the cost/trickiness of a
good epoxy job seems to lower the barrier a bit, to actually replacing the
wood itself, which of course is a pita, but not a hyooge pita.
--
EA


--
EA

On 8/13/2011 10:51 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
"Existential wrote in message
...
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll
take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It
will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is there
a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?

Appreciate all the tips, ideas. Shore beats the putty that assholes have
been using on my house.
In the case of the planking in an englich tudor, the cost/trickiness of a
good epoxy job seems to lower the barrier a bit, to actually replacing the
wood itself, which of course is a pita, but not a hyooge pita.

(Sorry for the direct reply- 4th time today !##$$%% Tbird 5 insisted on
sending directly instead of to group like I told it to do...)

If it is just the usual surface-applied stuff, I wouldn't even be
thinking about a patch job. Set up sawhorses in driveway, pre-stain or
pre-whatever the raw stock, and start rip'n'replace. If you are fussy,
you can dab a little stain on the fresh-cut ends before you nail it up,
without any drip problems. Cedar like used in fences is great for this
application, if you can match the texture and the finish. Don't forget
the caulk the upper edges, to keep rain out of the nail holes.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
On 8/13/2011 10:51 AM, Existential Angst wrote:
"Existential wrote in message
...
Awl --

I got rotted spots, wood joints, etc, (Englich tudor- 5/4 type wood) and
would like to use a weather-proof filler-type epoxy, ideally with some
mechanical strength (which would proly exclude putties, etc), but I'll
take what I can get, so as not to have to replace whole boards, etc. It
will of course be painted.

I'm going to need at least a few cubic inches of this material. Is
there
a generic name for this stuff?

Any suggestions? Hopefully I can get it locally, a HD or sumpn, but
internet is OK.

Is there a kind of hierarchy of exterior fillers, putties, epoxies,
structural epoxies, ito strength?

Appreciate all the tips, ideas. Shore beats the putty that assholes have
been using on my house.
In the case of the planking in an englich tudor, the cost/trickiness of a
good epoxy job seems to lower the barrier a bit, to actually replacing
the
wood itself, which of course is a pita, but not a hyooge pita.

(Sorry for the direct reply- 4th time today !##$$%% Tbird 5 insisted on
sending directly instead of to group like I told it to do...)

No pro'leng..... I'm lonely anyway....



If it is just the usual surface-applied stuff, I wouldn't even be thinking
about a patch job. Set up sawhorses in driveway, pre-stain or pre-whatever
the raw stock, and start rip'n'replace. If you are fussy, you can dab a
little stain on the fresh-cut ends before you nail it up, without any drip
problems. Cedar like used in fences is great for this application, if you
can match the texture and the finish. Don't forget the caulk the upper
edges, to keep rain out of the nail holes.

Yeah, I'm coming to this conclusion. If it were fancier, architectural-ish,
the epoxy would be a no-brainer, but this may be leaning toward
"replacement".

Good info, tho, overall, and good perspectives.
--
EA



--
aem sends...