I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle, close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key, skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time and effort to me
to fix it.

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:00:13 -0500, Zootal
wrote:

I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle, close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key, skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time and effort to me
to fix it.


I would start with the shear key. Sounds like it served its purpose.

Oren wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:00:13 -0500, Zootal
wrote:

-snip-

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start.

-snip-

I would start with the shear key. Sounds like it served its purpose.

Plus one on that--- Also be sure the blade hasn't come loose.
That'll do some odd stuff.

Jim

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:00:13 -0500, Zootal
wrote:

I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle, close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key, skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time and effort to me
to fix it.
Almost definite diagnosis - sheared key. A couple of bucks and half
an hour's work for a half-handy guy with a few tools

Almost definite diagnosis - sheared key. A couple of bucks and half
an hour's work for a half-handy guy with a few tools



So the general consensus is a sheared key - where is this sheared key that
it can be fixed in a half hour? I thought I'd have to take the engine apart
to get to it? I worked as a mechanic, but I retired my tools in 1984, and
haven't been into a lawn mower engine since the early 1970's...(yeah, I
know, I'm dating myself....)...

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 21:10:03 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


Almost definite diagnosis - sheared key. A couple of bucks and half
an hour's work for a half-handy guy with a few tools



So the general consensus is a sheared key - where is this sheared key that
it can be fixed in a half hour? I thought I'd have to take the engine apart
to get to it? I worked as a mechanic, but I retired my tools in 1984, and
haven't been into a lawn mower engine since the early 1970's...(yeah, I
know, I'm dating myself....)...
You pull off the top tin- a 5 minute job for an ex-mechanic with his
eyes closed, and remove the flywheel. The key is right there between
the tapered shaft and the flywheel. An ex-mechanic knows how to remove
the flywheel in about 2 minutes - including finding the hammer.
Puting it back together is the reverse - without needing the hammer.

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 21:10:03 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


Almost definite diagnosis - sheared key. A couple of bucks and half
an hour's work for a half-handy guy with a few tools



So the general consensus is a sheared key - where is this sheared key that
it can be fixed in a half hour? I thought I'd have to take the engine apart
to get to it? I worked as a mechanic, but I retired my tools in 1984, and
haven't been into a lawn mower engine since the early 1970's...(yeah, I
know, I'm dating myself....)...

Under the flywheel. The key sits in a keyway on the shaft. Ensure
you get the proper size or it may fail again. Even if it looks good,
replace it. A small fracture (without complete failure) can still
throw the timing off. I use a tad of bearing grease in the keyway to
hold the new key in place when seating the flywheel. When done
correctly is "just feels right" and seats easily.

Do not damage the flywheel when pulling it off as it is a light metal
and can be warped or bent..

Put your information in the B&S site.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/

A local mower repair shop ought to have what you need.

Let us know if the shear key is the problem, but it is my guess.

wrote:

You pull off the top tin- a 5 minute job for an ex-mechanic with his
eyes closed, and remove the flywheel. The key is right there between
the tapered shaft and the flywheel. An ex-mechanic knows how to remove
the flywheel in about 2 minutes - including finding the hammer.
Puting it back together is the reverse - without needing the hammer.

And here's a picture to prove that there's one under the nut:

http://www.kichline.com/chuck/fixit/mowers/key1.jpg

Jon

On top of the engine is a big flywheel. When you hit a stump
or other hard object, the flywheel turns in relation to the
crank shaft. That shears off the flywheel key. I can walk
you through the repair, if you wish. I also used to have a
bunch of flywheel keys, for B and S. Not sure they use the
same ones, now days.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
7.131...
I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine.
This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle,
close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It
is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in
tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately
stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull
starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and
backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear
(or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I
pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the
rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though
I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if
anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve
timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of
engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts
should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key,
skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find
when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time
and effort to me
to fix it.

Pull off the motor cover, off the top of the engine. Three
bolts, typically 7/16 socket.
Remove the screen from top of flywheel, if there is one. Nut
driver 1/4.
Remove the bolt that holds the flywheel (use your boot to
cross brace the blade, and turn the bolt with a four way lug
wrench)
Stick a pry bar under the fly wheel; pull up good and hard
Pound the center shaft with a brass face hammer, (brass so
you don't peen the center shaft)
Remove the pieces of flywheel key that were sheared.
Replace, reassemble.

Clean the machine with simple green and hot water and a
brush, while you have it apart. Grass and such blocks the
cooling air, and overheats the motor.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...

So the general consensus is a sheared key - where is this
sheared key that
it can be fixed in a half hour? I thought I'd have to take
the engine apart
to get to it? I worked as a mechanic, but I retired my tools
in 1984, and
haven't been into a lawn mower engine since the early
1970's...(yeah, I
know, I'm dating myself....)...

On Jul 28, 7:00*pm, Zootal wrote:
I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle, close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine..
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key, skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time and effort to me
to fix it.

Since you hit a stump, I agree that the flywheel key should be
replaced whether it is bad or not. But! FIRST check the blade to see
if it is bent and also the crankshaft to see if it is bent. If the
crank (shaft) is bent, throw out the mower and go no further.

Hank

They added a lot of plastic and decoration, since I worked
on mowers (about 20 years ago).

This guy looks like he makes sense:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4aFXHwxuhs


--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
7.131...
I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine.
This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle,
close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It
is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in
tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately
stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull
starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and
backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear
(or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I
pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the
rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though
I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if
anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve
timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of
engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts
should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key,
skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find
when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time
and effort to me
to fix it.

Hank wrote:
On Jul 28, 7:00 pm, Zootal wrote:
I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This
engine has always started on the first or second pull. Open
throttle, close the manual choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it
fires right up. It is the easiest starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall
grass, I didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately
stopping the engine. Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over
the pull starter popped off, it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out
the carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or
whatever valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I
pulled the valve cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if
the rockers arms would both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell
they do, though I'm not sure how accurate or reliable of a test that
is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it
turns over easier than it should, which is what made me think the
valve timing was off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to
comment on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts
should I decide to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a
key, skipped a tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll
find when I tear it open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a
bit of time and effort to me to fix it.

Since you hit a stump, I agree that the flywheel key should be
replaced whether it is bad or not. But! FIRST check the blade to see
if it is bent and also the crankshaft to see if it is bent. If the
crank (shaft) is bent, throw out the mower and go no further.


Exactly what I was going to say.

Since you hit a stump, I agree that the flywheel key should be
replaced whether it is bad or not. But! FIRST check the blade to see
if it is bent and also the crankshaft to see if it is bent. If the
crank (shaft) is bent, throw out the mower and go no further.

Hank


I used to have an el-cheapo made-in-China piece-of-crap Wal-Mart lawnmower,
3hp engine. I hit something, and it bent the crank, bad. After pricing
parts and finding that they cost more than the mower did, I tossed the
entire thing in the trash.

As for this mower - it's an old Craftsman, 6hp engine, built a bit more
solid than the made-in-China piece-of-crap mowers Wal-Mart sells.

This picture pretty much says it all:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/2011
_dad_fixes_lawnmower/images/SDC14346.JPG

My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

It was easy to do - remove a couple of bolts, lift off top cover, air
wrench to remove flywheel nut (big old 1/2" impact wrench, never get to use
it anymore, why use hand tools when you have huge impact wrench that yeah
might be a bit overkill but bzzziippp and it's off in two seconds), wheel
puller pulls flywheel right off. Replace key. Clean here and there. Torque
flywheel nut. Put everything back together. Started right up.

Reminded me how much I loved working as a mechanic way back when. Kids
today couldn't set a point gap to set their lives. And time an engine? Set
idle screws? CO2 meter? wtf? I could have a carb off, tanked, cleaned,
reassembled and purring like a kitten in nothing flat. Kids today hardly
know what a carb is.....ask a so-called mechanic today what a dashpot is,
or what a choke pull-off diaphragm is, and watch them give you blank looks.


On top of the engine is a big flywheel. When you hit a stump
or other hard object, the flywheel turns in relation to the
crank shaft. That shears off the flywheel key. I can walk
you through the repair, if you wish. I also used to have a
bunch of flywheel keys, for B and S. Not sure they use the
same ones, now days.

"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...

Reminded me how much I loved working as a mechanic way back when. Kids
today couldn't set a point gap to set their lives. And time an engine? Set
idle screws? CO2 meter? wtf? I could have a carb off, tanked, cleaned,
reassembled and purring like a kitten in nothing flat. Kids today hardly
know what a carb is.....ask a so-called mechanic today what a dashpot is,
or what a choke pull-off diaphragm is, and watch them give you blank
looks.


With fuel injection and electronic ignition, many cars today do not have any
of the above.
Also not much needs ot be done now. I had a 1991 Toyota that had 200,000
miles on it and only changed the plugs once around 100,000. The old stuff
needed them changed about every 20,000. Also the points. I did have to take
it to a place to get the timing belt changed.

Atleast you could find the old stuff under the hood. Now it looks like one
big mass of steel and hoses.

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:30:19 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


It was easy to do - remove a couple of bolts, lift off top cover, air
wrench to remove flywheel nut (big old 1/2" impact wrench, never get to use
it anymore, why use hand tools when you have huge impact wrench that yeah
might be a bit overkill but bzzziippp and it's off in two seconds), wheel
puller pulls flywheel right off. Replace key. Clean here and there. Torque
flywheel nut. Put everything back together. Started right up.

Reminded me how much I loved working as a mechanic way back when. Kids
today couldn't set a point gap to set their lives. And time an engine? Set
idle screws? CO2 meter? wtf? I could have a carb off, tanked, cleaned,
reassembled and purring like a kitten in nothing flat. Kids today hardly
know what a carb is.....ask a so-called mechanic today what a dashpot is,
or what a choke pull-off diaphragm is, and watch them give you blank looks.


On top of the engine is a big flywheel. When you hit a stump
or other hard object, the flywheel turns in relation to the
crank shaft. That shears off the flywheel key. I can walk
you through the repair, if you wish. I also used to have a
bunch of flywheel keys, for B and S. Not sure they use the
same ones, now days.

My oldest daughter - a "poor grad student" at St. Mary's in Halifax,
was "babysitting" a 2001 Sunfire for a classmate who was out of the
country for a few months. The car was not terribly well maintained,
andshe said it "seemed to misfire" and made funny noises - so she
didn't drive it much. 2 weeks ago it almost quit on her - would not do
more than about 30kph, and barely made it into the parking lot, with
check engine and traction control lights on.
She called me, in Waterloo Ontario tosee what was wrong with it.
I had her pull a couple of plug wires and determined the 1-4 coil was
not firing - and told her it needed a new set of plugs and wires and a
new coil. She went to Canadian Tire, bought the parts, and borrowed a
set of cheap tools from a classmate friend. With some help she got the
plugs out, and one bolt out of the coil - but the other one stripped
the head - so she had to take the complete coil pack assembly off and
take it to Canadian tire where a mechanic drilled the head off for
her, and she removed the stuck bolt with her newly purchased
vice-grips.
No-one in Halifax had the required coil bolt - so she got on the
internet and found there was one in Bridgewater - 2 hours away. When I
texted her to tell her where to find one, she had already found it
(the same one, at the same dealership)
She figured out another classmate/friend's parents lived in
Bridgewater and, since this is a long weekend in Canada, he could
bring it back next week if he went home for the weekend - as long as
she could arrange to have it picked up ahead of time. When she called
to make the arrangements to havr it picked up the parts gut said one
of the mechanics was heading into Halifax the next night - and he
dropped it off at her door and she finished putting it back together
on Friday and said it "ran like a dream" She was VERY proud of
herself.

Her Dad was pretty proud of her too - she's generally not the
"handiest" - and had to ask "I know it's right-tighty and lefty loosey
- but thats at the TOP of the swing, right Dad?"
For an International Development major she did pretty darn good!!!

There's some hope yet for the younger generation.

Hmm. If you don't mind my saying, the guy with the male
pattern baldness looks like he needs more sleep? Hope you
cleaned the engine well (you said you did), needs to cool
itself while running.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...


As for this mower - it's an old Craftsman, 6hp engine, built
a bit more
solid than the made-in-China piece-of-crap mowers Wal-Mart
sells.

This picture pretty much says it all:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/2011
_dad_fixes_lawnmower/images/SDC14346.JPG

My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost
180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys
that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it
was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it
together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires
right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel
would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor
down and good
luck finding parts for it.

"Zootal" wrote

Reminded me how much I loved working as a mechanic way back when. Kids
today couldn't set a point gap to set their lives. And time an engine? Set
idle screws? CO2 meter? wtf? I could have a carb off, tanked, cleaned,
reassembled and purring like a kitten in nothing flat. Kids today hardly
know what a carb is.....ask a so-called mechanic today what a dashpot is,
or what a choke pull-off diaphragm is, and watch them give you blank
looks.

Dashpot? I've not heard that term in over 35 years; probably no one under
the age of 40, maybe even 50 knows what it is.. I've cleaned many a choke
pull off to get it working again too.

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:36:21 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.
6HP Briggs in a Craftsman will NOT have points. Briggs stopped using
points long before craftsman started using Briggs instead of "eager 1"
branded Tecumseh engines.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.


I didn't bother with the magnets, and left the gap where it was. Is this
critical? The engine fires up with the first pull and AFAICT runs just
fine.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:01:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:36:21 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.
6HP Briggs in a Craftsman will NOT have points. Briggs stopped using
points long before craftsman started using Briggs instead of "eager 1"
branded Tecumseh engines.

I'm speaking of the gap on the coil (magneto -- my term) aside the
flywheel.

And rust on the flywheel magnets. Cleaning the rust off and setting
the gap works wonders.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 12:11:31 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.


I didn't bother with the magnets, and left the gap where it was. Is this
critical? The engine fires up with the first pull and AFAICT runs just
fine.

Don't fix what ain't broke :-/ I have seen engines run poorly because
of the rust and dirty contacts on the coil or wide gap. Mostly with
mowers kept outside or in an area with high humidity.

I clean them up from habit. Once a magnet fell out the side of a
flywheel (glued it back in).

It doesn't happen *all* the time, but an engine, runs poorly because
of the rust, gap, etc., made the engine misfire.

Next time you hit that hidden stump -- clean it up then :-/

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 10:55:48 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:01:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:36:21 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.
6HP Briggs in a Craftsman will NOT have points. Briggs stopped using
points long before craftsman started using Briggs instead of "eager 1"
branded Tecumseh engines.

I'm speaking of the gap on the coil (magneto -- my term) aside the
flywheel.

And rust on the flywheel magnets. Cleaning the rust off and setting
the gap works wonders.
But if there was a problem there, the OP would have experienced hard
starting before hitting the stump. And "magneto contacts" were
mentioned - which do NOT exist on that engine.

No breaker points now days. It is important to adjust the
gap between the flywheel and the ignition coil.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets?
Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has
a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.

If the gap is off, it sends RF signals to orbiting
satellite, who then know your GPS location, and they send
you a bill for $500,000 for remote echo location. And then,
the Russians drop in parachute troops.

Or, the spark is weak. I can't remember which.

If it works fine, you did good, and stop fussing with it,
you don't want to break something serious.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
7.131...

I didn't bother with the magnets, and left the gap where it
was. Is this
critical? The engine fires up with the first pull and AFAICT
runs just
fine.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:02:50 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 10:55:48 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:01:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:36:21 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.
6HP Briggs in a Craftsman will NOT have points. Briggs stopped using
points long before craftsman started using Briggs instead of "eager 1"
branded Tecumseh engines.

I'm speaking of the gap on the coil (magneto -- my term) aside the
flywheel.

And rust on the flywheel magnets. Cleaning the rust off and setting
the gap works wonders.

But if there was a problem there, the OP would have experienced hard
starting before hitting the stump. And "magneto contacts" were
mentioned - which do NOT exist on that engine.

I was getting myself corrected -- meaning COIL contacts. I see a coil
there on his engine??!

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:42:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

No breaker points now days. It is important to adjust the
gap between the flywheel and the ignition coil.

I keep thinking of a magneto on a Model-A Ford. One day I will call
these Volt producing do-ma-jiggers a coil.

I didn't say anything about "points". I have spoken about the "gap" at
the COIL.

OP is running fine on one pull. Leave well enough alone. Beats his
thoughts of tearing down the engine.

Anyway...

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:42:38 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

No breaker points now days. It is important to adjust the
gap between the flywheel and the ignition coil.
Rephrase that to:" it is important the gap between the flywheel and
ignition coil is correct". If it started and ran properly before the
key was sheared, the adjustment is correct. DON"T SCREW WITH IT.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 16:52:06 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 15:02:50 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 10:55:48 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 13:01:32 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 08:36:21 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 14:23:58 -0500, Zootal
wrote:


My daughter took pics of the entire operation:

http://zootal.no-ip.info/stuff/2011/...xes_lawnmower/

So, yeah, not only did it shear, the flywheel turned almost 180! A quick
trip to Ace Hardware, $2.99 buys a 5-pack of flywheel keys that "fit all
B&S engines". Had to use a wheel puller on the flywheel - it was very
tight. Did a bit of cleaning while I was there. Put it together. Close
manual choke, one lazy pull on starter cord, and it fires right up.

So thanks to everyone here - I had not idea the flywheel would shear the
key and turn, I was thinking I was going to have tear motor down and good
luck finding parts for it.

Did you clean that surface rust off the flywheel magnets? Clean the
magneto contacts and adjust the gap?

I always do so while the flywheel is off, if the engine has a magneto.
Anyway, glad things worked out well for you.
6HP Briggs in a Craftsman will NOT have points. Briggs stopped using
points long before craftsman started using Briggs instead of "eager 1"
branded Tecumseh engines.

I'm speaking of the gap on the coil (magneto -- my term) aside the
flywheel.

And rust on the flywheel magnets. Cleaning the rust off and setting
the gap works wonders.

But if there was a problem there, the OP would have experienced hard
starting before hitting the stump. And "magneto contacts" were
mentioned - which do NOT exist on that engine.

I was getting myself corrected -- meaning COIL contacts. I see a coil
there on his engine??!
You are just digging yourself deeper.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 22:00:31 -0400, wrote:

I was getting myself corrected -- meaning COIL contacts. I see a coil
there on his engine??!

You are just digging yourself deeper.

Okay. You tell me about _this_ GAP adjustment AT the flywheel.

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/223968225/Ignition_coil_and_magneto_flywheel_used_for.jpg

(Ignition_coil_and_magneto_flywheel)

It very much resembles what the OP pictures showed.

This whole debate started when I mentioned adjusting the gap. I also
told the OP if it ain't broke don't worry. Clean up the rust and check
THIS gap _NEXT_ time.

I'm running out of fried green tomatoes.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 19:26:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 22:00:31 -0400, wrote:

I was getting myself corrected -- meaning COIL contacts. I see a coil
there on his engine??!

You are just digging yourself deeper.

Okay. You tell me about _this_ GAP adjustment AT the flywheel.

http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/223968225/Ignition_coil_and_magneto_flywheel_used_for.jpg

(Ignition_coil_and_magneto_flywheel)

It very much resembles what the OP pictures showed.

This whole debate started when I mentioned adjusting the gap. I also
told the OP if it ain't broke don't worry. Clean up the rust and check
THIS gap _NEXT_ time.

I'm running out of fried green tomatoes.
No issue with the gap - and as you and I both said - if it ain't
broke, don't fix it. But you mentioned contacts. If you mean the
bround connections, if it ran before, they are OK - don't touch them.
Loosening the attachment screws, in most cases, means losening the
coil mounts - which can screw up the magnetic air-gap between the coil
and flywheel magnet - which we have pretty well established should not
be screwed around with if the engine was starting and running fine
before. I've seen too many cases where someone played with the
air-gap, without knowing EXACTLY what they were doing, and ended up
with the coil catching the magnet, damaging the flywheel, coil, or
both, within a short time after re-assebming the assembly.

I ran out last week.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...

I'm running out of fried green tomatoes.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:06:27 -0400, clare wrote:
No issue with the gap - and as you and I both said - if it ain't
broke, don't fix it.

Yeah, small engines don't seem too picky about the gap I've always found
- too wide, and the spark tails off quickly (and is obviously wrong), too
close and the flywheel hits the magneto and trashes it, but anything
inbetween gives good results (always rotate the engine by hand after
changing it to test that it's clear).

cheers

Jules

Jules Richardson wrote in
:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:06:27 -0400, clare wrote:
No issue with the gap - and as you and I both said - if it ain't
broke, don't fix it.

Yeah, small engines don't seem too picky about the gap I've always
found - too wide, and the spark tails off quickly (and is obviously
wrong), too close and the flywheel hits the magneto and trashes it,
but anything inbetween gives good results (always rotate the engine by
hand after changing it to test that it's clear).

cheers

Jules

I finished mowing the back yard today - it is a happy mower. If anything,
it runs better now than before, which doesn't really make much sense unless
the flywheel had already rotated just a degree or two...I didn't touch
anything else (knocks on wood...)...

On Mon, 01 Aug 2011 18:18:25 -0500, Zootal
wrote:

Jules Richardson wrote in
:

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 23:06:27 -0400, clare wrote:
No issue with the gap - and as you and I both said - if it ain't
broke, don't fix it.

Yeah, small engines don't seem too picky about the gap I've always
found - too wide, and the spark tails off quickly (and is obviously
wrong), too close and the flywheel hits the magneto and trashes it,
but anything inbetween gives good results (always rotate the engine by
hand after changing it to test that it's clear).

cheers

Jules

I finished mowing the back yard today - it is a happy mower. If anything,
it runs better now than before, which doesn't really make much sense unless
the flywheel had already rotated just a degree or two...I didn't touch
anything else (knocks on wood...)...

Yes, The key and twist a bit and throw the timing off. It won't be
obvious at first glance. This why it is always best to change the key
and not use the old one. BTDT.

On Jul 28, 6:35*pm, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:00:13 -0500, Zootal



wrote:
I have a Craftsman mower, 6hp, B&S overhead valve engine. This engine has
always started on the first or second pull. Open throttle, close the manual
choke, give one or two lazy pulls and it fires right up. It is the easiest
starting mower I have ever had!

I ran over a stump that stuck up a few inches - it was in tall grass, I
didn't see it, and the blade hit it hard, immediately stopping the engine.
Thunk, engine stopped. The plastic cover over the pull starter popped off,
it hit so hard.

Now the engine won't start. It pops and sputters and backfires out the
carb, but absolutely will not start. Thinking a timing gear (or whatever
valve timing mechanism it has) had skipped a gear/notch, I pulled the valve
cover, pulled the spark plug, and watched to see if the rockers arms would
both rock at TDC, and as far as I can tell they do, though I'm not sure how
accurate or reliable of a test that is.

The engine turns over easily, but it always has - if anything it turns over
easier than it should, which is what made me think the valve timing was
off, though it's hard to tell.

Anyone have enough experience with this engine or type of engine to comment
on what might have happened, and availability/cost of parts should I decide
to tear the engine down? I don't know if sheared a key, skipped a
tooth/cog, bent a valve in the process or what I'll find when I tear it
open. It's been a good mower, and it's worth a bit of time and effort to me
to fix it.

I would start with the shear key. Sounds like it served its purpose.

Shear Key is best case scenario and I hope it did fail - fairly easy
fix. After the key you are looking at more unpleasant things like a
bent crankshaft, dropped valve, etc.

RonB

On Jul 29, 7:13*am, Hank wrote:
On Jul 28, 7:00*pm, Zootal wrote:


Since you hit a stump, I agree that the flywheel key should be
replaced whether it is bad or not. But! FIRST check the blade to see
if it is bent and also the crankshaft to see if it is bent. If the
crank (shaft) is bent, throw out the mower and go no further.

Hank

Depends on age of the mower. I bent the shaft on a fairly new 6hp
Snapper a few years ago and got it fixed for less than $200. Beats
2-3 times that for a new replacement.

RonB

On Jul 29, 7:13*am, Hank wrote:
On Jul 28, 7:00*pm, Zootal wrote:


Since you hit a stump, I agree that the flywheel key should be
replaced whether it is bad or not. But! FIRST check the blade to see
if it is bent and also the crankshaft to see if it is bent. If the
crank (shaft) is bent, throw out the mower and go no further.


Not necessarily. How old is the mower? I hit a stump with a 6hp
Snapper about 6 years ago and bent the crank. A local mower shop
fixed it for less than $200. That was a lot better than 2-3 times
that for a new Snapper and we are still using it.