Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

--
People thought cybersex was a safe alternative,
until patients started presenting with sexually
acquired carpal tunnel syndrome.-Howard Berkowitz

On Jul 26, 11:40*am, Jim T wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

I'd shock the hell out of it. Take it to 40 ppm chlorine using
liquid.
Then I'd get a copper algecide for maintenance.

On 7/26/2011 10:49 AM, wrote:
On Jul 26, 11:40 am, Jim wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
I'd shock the hell out of it. Take it to 40 ppm chlorine using
liquid.
Then I'd get a copper algecide for maintenance.

heh~

i think it was u that suggested the regent. Isn't it nice to be right?

I have to ask. thanks

On 7/26/2011 10:47 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?


No. never needed to but I have use 'black-out" like shock. Got rid of
the black but the grn is back.

On 7/26/2011 10:49 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 10:40:33 -0500, Jim wrote:

Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

Do you shock the pool regularly? What is the stabilizer level (too
much is bad)?

You can get good chlorine numbers and still not have much "free"
chlorine available.
Do you know where the phosphate is coming from?
phosphates must be coming from the atmosphere. rain has been light so
lots of dust, leaves......

I'm going right now to get the test.

Once a week shock if not more.

That's another issue is I need to move my chemicals because it's too hot
to store them outside.

Jim

On Jul 26, 11:40*am, Jim T wrote:

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply

My PhosFree comes with phosphate test kit, big enough to last the
whole summer.

Here in the Ohio River Valley,this year, the heat, sun and rain are
playing hell with my chemistry-especially chlorine and pH.

Rain seems to pick up phosphates from the farm fields in IN, then
dumps it all in our pool. It's been a constant challenge, until I
tried PF.

I dump 1L of PF in the skimmer every month, regardless of what the
test says, if I bother to test it, which I usually don't. I ain't got
no algae.

I can't overemphasize the value of a relationship with good, local
pool store, if you can find one.

Online, these guys seem to provide the best info in my case:
http://www.poolplaza.com/
-----

- gpsman

In article ,
Jim T wrote:

On 7/26/2011 10:47 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?


No. never needed to but I have use 'black-out" like shock. Got rid of
the black but the grn is back.

We put in every couple weeks with the shock. It would seem that if you
have problems with algae, MAYBE, just maybe, you have a need for an
algacide. (grin0

--
People thought cybersex was a safe alternative,
until patients started presenting with sexually
acquired carpal tunnel syndrome.-Howard Berkowitz

On 7/26/2011 11:32 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

On 7/26/2011 10:47 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

No. never needed to but I have use 'black-out" like shock. Got rid of
the black but the grn is back.
We put in every couple weeks with the shock. It would seem that if you
have problems with algae, MAYBE, just maybe, you have a need for an
algacide. (grin0


not necessarily which is the idea behind zero phosphates.

anyway...goota go and get the regent and other stuff

On Jul 26, 12:10*pm, Jim T wrote:
On 7/26/2011 10:49 AM, wrote:





On Jul 26, 11:40 am, Jim *wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
I'd shock the hell out of it. *Take it to 40 ppm chlorine using
liquid.
Then I'd get a copper algecide for maintenance.

heh~

i think it was u that suggested the regent. Isn't it nice to be right?

I have to ask. thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Have no idea what you're talking about. The above advice
is sound. As others have suggested, if trying to limit
phosphates isn't working, then use an agecide.

On 7/26/2011 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Jul 26, 12:10 pm, Jim wrote:
On 7/26/2011 10:49 AM, wrote:





On Jul 26, 11:40 am, Jim wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.
Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.
Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.
My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.
My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.
How do metals play in algae growth?
Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better results?
Comments? Suggestions?
Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.
Sand Filter
Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.
If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks
Jim
I'd shock the hell out of it. Take it to 40 ppm chlorine using
liquid.
Then I'd get a copper algecide for maintenance.
heh~

i think it was u that suggested the regent. Isn't it nice to be right?

I have to ask. thanks- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Have no idea what you're talking about. The above advice
is sound. As others have suggested, if trying to limit
phosphates isn't working, then use an agecide.

must not of been you.

To use algaecide i'd have to grow algae. Do you think it's unavoidable?

jim

On 7/26/2011 11:24 AM, gpsman wrote:
On Jul 26, 11:40 am, Jim wrote:
Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply
My PhosFree comes with phosphate test kit, big enough to last the
whole summer.

Strips or reagent?

Here in the Ohio River Valley,this year, the heat, sun and rain are
playing hell with my chemistry-especially chlorine and pH.

my chlorine is evaporating with the water. ph is about the same

Rain seems to pick up phosphates from the farm fields in IN, then
dumps it all in our pool. It's been a constant challenge, until I
tried PF.

with rain at least you know what it is and can shock accordingly.

I dump 1L of PF in the skimmer every month, regardless of what the
test says, if I bother to test it, which I usually don't. I ain't got
no algae.

that's the test: do you have algae? y/n Yes? You have phosphates.

I can't overemphasize the value of a relationship with good, local
pool store, if you can find one.

our's used to be really good but as with everything time drifts on.

Online, these guys seem to provide the best info in my case:
http://www.poolplaza.com/
-----

- gpsman

i'll check it out.

Wh

On 7/26/2011 11:36 AM, Jim T wrote:
On 7/26/2011 11:32 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

On 7/26/2011 10:47 AM, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are
using
an algacide and if not, why not?

No. never needed to but I have use 'black-out" like shock. Got rid of
the black but the grn is back.
We put in every couple weeks with the shock. It would seem that if you
have problems with algae, MAYBE, just maybe, you have a need for an
algacide. (grin0


not necessarily which is the idea behind zero phosphates.

anyway...goota go and get the regent and other stuff

correction "reagent"

"Jim T" wrote in message
net...
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared it
up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year and
the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

What is your cyanuric acid level? That's the chlorine stabilizer. Without
it, the chlorine you dump in the pool dissipates into the air through the
surface of the water. Buy a stabilizer test kit. I had to adjust mine
every two years or so. You might be missing the easy answer.

Other than that, I NEVER did ph, phosphate, and all that stuff. Just made
sure there was enough stabilizer, and then checked the chlorine level.
Everything else just fell into line after that.

In order for algae to form and grab hold, there has to be a lack of
chlorine. Fergeddabout phosphates, ph, and all that other falderal.

YMMV

Steve

"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

Steve

On 7/26/2011 3:08 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Jim wrote in message
net...
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared it
up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year and
the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.
What is your cyanuric acid level? That's the chlorine stabilizer. Without
it, the chlorine you dump in the pool dissipates into the air through the
surface of the water. Buy a stabilizer test kit. I had to adjust mine
every two years or so. You might be missing the easy answer.

Other than that, I NEVER did ph, phosphate, and all that stuff. Just made
sure there was enough stabilizer, and then checked the chlorine level.
Everything else just fell into line after that.

In order for algae to form and grab hold, there has to be a lack of
chlorine. Fergeddabout phosphates, ph, and all that other falderal.

YMMV

Steve



Thanks steve and looking into to it. I have a free chlorine station set
up and I'm dribbling out free chlorine by the hours now. we'll see.
chlorine was at 3 just about 2 hours ago.

"Steve B" writes:

"Jim T" wrote in message
net...
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared it
up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year and
the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

What is your cyanuric acid level? That's the chlorine stabilizer. Without
it, the chlorine you dump in the pool dissipates into the air through the
surface of the water. Buy a stabilizer test kit. I had to adjust mine
every two years or so. You might be missing the easy answer.

Other than that, I NEVER did ph, phosphate, and all that stuff. Just made
sure there was enough stabilizer, and then checked the chlorine level.
Everything else just fell into line after that.

In order for algae to form and grab hold, there has to be a lack of
chlorine. Fergeddabout phosphates, ph, and all that other falderal.

Exactly my experience.

Pool stores will sell you every thing under the sun to get rid of
algae. But if they sell you something that works, you stop buying.

For 13K gallons, I add 5 gallons of liquid chlorine.
End of algae.

I use Algacide but when I want to get rid of algae,
chlorine is the weapon of choice.

--
Dan Espen

On 7/26/2011 4:29 PM, wrote:
"Steve writes:

"Jim wrote in message
net...
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared it
up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year and
the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.
What is your cyanuric acid level? That's the chlorine stabilizer. Without
it, the chlorine you dump in the pool dissipates into the air through the
surface of the water. Buy a stabilizer test kit. I had to adjust mine
every two years or so. You might be missing the easy answer.

Other than that, I NEVER did ph, phosphate, and all that stuff. Just made
sure there was enough stabilizer, and then checked the chlorine level.
Everything else just fell into line after that.

In order for algae to form and grab hold, there has to be a lack of
chlorine. Fergeddabout phosphates, ph, and all that other falderal.
Exactly my experience.

Pool stores will sell you every thing under the sun to get rid of
algae. But if they sell you something that works, you stop buying.

For 13K gallons, I add 5 gallons of liquid chlorine.
End of algae.

I use Algacide but when I want to get rid of algae,
chlorine is the weapon of choice.


score one for more chlorine (free sounds like)

On 07/26/2011 11:40 AM, Jim T wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

My chlorine level is monitored closely. Yesterday it was 3ppm I just
tested PH and it was 7.4 in a quick test with a calibrated probe that's
pretty accurate. The store said I needed alkaline but only 3.5lbs which
sounds about right for this time of year.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How do metals play in algae growth?

Anyone else use "Phosfree" then "Pool Perfect Phosfree" with better
results?

Comments? Suggestions?

Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.

******************
Sand Filter
******************

Central TX (Hotter than it's ever been ~ 105 today) Damn I want to go
back to NM!
At least 50% shade on pool. (nice!)
10,000 gal pool and spa.

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

*****************
Switching to an earth filter will pay for itself in the long run. Sand
filters are the worst filters for a pool. They get clogged with gunk
very quickly and back flushing them just doesn't remove the gunk.

I had a pool when I was raising my kids and switching from a sand to an
earth filter was the best investment I could have made for that pool. I
only had to run the filter 4 hours a day instead of 8 and just shock the
pool once a week or so, no other chlorine products needed. The savings
in electricity, wear and tear, chemicals and filtering agent (not to
mention no more problems) easily paid for for the cost of a new filter.

John

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.

But it kills both.

Best plan is to not use the pool for a day or 2.
The chlorine levels return to normal pretty quickly.

--
Dan Espen

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 10:40:33 -0500, Jim T wrote:

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

Two weeks ago I had my water tested. She tells Phosphates are at
"1,000" ... no way in my mind or thinking (10K pool had been drained
and refilled a month before). I ignored the sell tactic of Phos Free.
A week later I took a sample in and she tells me the Phonates are at
"300". "Last week you said they were at 1000."

Here reply: "I don't know what you did but it came down."

I'll be buying my own test kit ($82.00) for a pro testing kit. I can
learn to use them, instead of relying on "free testing". I'll also by
phosphates remover from another brand name --- not the diluted
solutions this store sells and hypes.

"Jim T" wrote

Thanks steve and looking into to it. I have a free chlorine station set up
and I'm dribbling out free chlorine by the hours now. we'll see. chlorine
was at 3 just about 2 hours ago.

If you are using a lot of chlorine, and you STILL got algae, I'd say it
probably is your stabilizer. UNLESS, like I had when the pine trees bloomed
and all the gold dust settled on the pool. A mass infusion of some type of
degradable organic gunk.

Cyanuric acid testers are about $20, IIRC, and there is enough to do tests
for about five years, two a year. Simple to use. So simple I did it.

Upon adding a jug of stabilizer, a gallon, IIRC, I cut my chlorine by 75%.
I had a 32,000 gallon pool, and I would put two of those 3" tabs in the
ducky floater, and replace when they got thin, and no algae unless I let the
pool get real dirty, which happened a couple of times when I was traveling,
or had a pump/filter failure for a few days.

Let us know. Even if you do have issues with other things due to the water
in your area, stabilizer is one of the top three things that can cause pool
problems, and one of the top three easiest things to fix. And top three
cheapest.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
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Green yellow algae with spots on plaster that have to be periodically
scrubbed off.

I would power wash mine, BUT BE CAREFUL, AS YOU CAN ALSO TAKE OFF THE
PLASTER!

Steve

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 21:33:07 -0400, wrote:

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.

But it kills both.

Not in the concentrations you want to be swimming in.

Best plan is to not use the pool for a day or 2.
The chlorine levels return to normal pretty quickly.

I didn't say one shouldn't shock the pool. The purpose of shock isn't to kill
algae either.

On Jul 26, 10:03*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 10:40:33 -0500, Jim T wrote:
Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

Two weeks ago I had my water tested. *She tells Phosphates are at
"1,000" ... no way in my *mind or thinking (10K pool had been drained
and refilled a month before). *I ignored the sell tactic of Phos Free.
A week later I took a sample in and she tells me the Phonates are at
"300". *"Last week you said they were at 1000."

Here reply: "I don't know what you did but it came down."

I'll be buying my own test kit ($82.00) for a pro testing kit. I can
learn to use them, instead of relying on "free testing". I'll also by
phosphates remover from another brand name --- not the diluted
solutions this store sells and hypes.

Very good advice about the test kit. I don't trust the kids at the
pool store either. Listening to them you could spend hundreds
of dollars buying their Balance Pak 2000 or whatever instead of
a cheap readily available chemical like baking soda.

I use the Taylor 2006 test kit, which is about $50. It tests for
everything you need to measure including cyanuric acid and
free chlorine. It's probably saved me $1000 compared to
taking water in to the pool store. And the pool has been
trouble free.

I agree with Steve that if he's putting in a lot of chlorine
he may be lacking stabilizer. Key question, what form is
the chlorine that's being used? If it's liquid, there is no
stabilizer. If he's using trichlor, then that includes stabilizer.
You don't want to get too much, because once it's in
the only way to get it out is to drain the water.

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 21:33:07 -0400, wrote:

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.

But it kills both.

Not in the concentrations you want to be swimming in.

I just said that. Don't use the pool if the chlorine scares you.

Best plan is to not use the pool for a day or 2.
The chlorine levels return to normal pretty quickly.

I didn't say one shouldn't shock the pool. The purpose of shock isn't to kill
algae either.

I know shock isn't sold as algae control. I'm just sharing my
experience.

I've been through the pool store test regimen. I've had yellow algae,
black algae, green algae and specific treatments that were supposed to
cure each. None of them ever seemed to work.

But then I figured out that if I over-shock the pool, everything growing
in the pool dies overnight. Typically the green water turns cloudy white and
in a day or 2 the filter removes the white.

--
Dan Espen

On Wed, 27 Jul 2011 10:49:20 -0400, wrote:

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 21:33:07 -0400, wrote:

" writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim T wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim

AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.

No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.

But it kills both.

Not in the concentrations you want to be swimming in.

I just said that. Don't use the pool if the chlorine scares you.

Moron. Don't use so damned much chlorine.

Best plan is to not use the pool for a day or 2.
The chlorine levels return to normal pretty quickly.

I didn't say one shouldn't shock the pool. The purpose of shock isn't to kill
algae either.

I know shock isn't sold as algae control. I'm just sharing my
experience.

Your "experience" isn't worth a damn.

I've been through the pool store test regimen. I've had yellow algae,
black algae, green algae and specific treatments that were supposed to
cure each. None of them ever seemed to work.

You obviously did something very wrong. Algae is trivial to control.

But then I figured out that if I over-shock the pool, everything growing
in the pool dies overnight. Typically the green water turns cloudy white and
in a day or 2 the filter removes the white.

On 7/27/2011 9:49 AM, wrote:
z writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 21:33:07 -0400, wrote:

z writes:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:09:19 -0700, "Steve
wrote:

"Kurt wrote in message
...
In astnet,
Jim wrote:

If your suggestion is to get a phosphate regent test don't waste your
time. I already know that. Thanks

Jim
AT least from experience with our pool, I would wonder if you are using
an algacide and if not, why not?

Algaecides are for people who don't maintain enough chlorine levels.
No, they're for people who don't like blond hair (or burnt hair). It takes a
*lot* if chlorine to kill algae. Chlorine is intended to kill bacteria, not
algae.
But it kills both.
Not in the concentrations you want to be swimming in.
I just said that. Don't use the pool if the chlorine scares you.

Best plan is to not use the pool for a day or 2.
The chlorine levels return to normal pretty quickly.
I didn't say one shouldn't shock the pool. The purpose of shock isn't to kill
algae either.
I know shock isn't sold as algae control. I'm just sharing my
experience.

I've been through the pool store test regimen. I've had yellow algae,
black algae, green algae and specific treatments that were supposed to
cure each. None of them ever seemed to work.

But then I figured out that if I over-shock the pool, everything growing
in the pool dies overnight. Typically the green water turns cloudy white and
in a day or 2 the filter removes the white.


Filter media makes a difference. Sand filters can let tiny dead algae
through unless u use a substance that has to be backwashed.

What I did this time is check the phosphates and they were high so I
used phosfree, chlorine and a floc like chemical then backwashed. The
thing that works is *killing everything*; *let the pool settle 48
hours*. put some floc in the filter ~ vacuum through the floc and
backwash. Works for me everytime. But it can get expensive. Chemicals
and water and all.

On 7/26/2011 8:40 AM, Jim T wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

First, stop using Phosfree. It is _far_ more expensive than other
Phosphate removers. I did a comparison a while back, see it at
http://i52.tinypic.com/34e3mlz.jpg. You may have to order the PR10000
online as few pool stores will stock it (for obvious reasons). You can
go broke buying Phosfree at the local pool supply chain store.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

Yes, test results often vary depending on who's doing the test and what
they want to sell you.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How high is your cyanuric acid level? I had the "chlorine lock" problem
after using tri-chlor tablets for a long period of time, and was getting
a lot of algae. If your cyanuric acid is much over 50ppm you need to
lower it (by draining, there is no neutralizer available).

I have greatly reduced the ongoing cost of chemicals for my pool. I buy
Hasa 12.5% chlorine at $2.50 a gallon (returnable bottles) from a pool
store (not Leslie's) rather than paying $4-4.50 a gallon for 10%
chlorine in those two gallon box packs. I buy the highly concentrated
phosphate remover rather than the insanely priced Phosfree (which is
nearly 8x the cost). The acid I still buy in the two gallon box packs
because I don't use enough to make it worth buying in the returnable
bottles where you have to buy four gallons at a time.

On 7/28/2011 10:46 AM, SMS wrote:
On 7/26/2011 8:40 AM, Jim T wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

First, stop using Phosfree. It is _far_ more expensive than other
Phosphate removers. I did a comparison a while back, see it at
http://i52.tinypic.com/34e3mlz.jpg. You may have to order the
PR10000 online as few pool stores will stock it (for obvious reasons).
You can go broke buying Phosfree at the local pool supply chain store.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in the
low 100s.

Yes, test results often vary depending on who's doing the test and
what they want to sell you.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How high is your cyanuric acid level? I had the "chlorine lock"
problem after using tri-chlor tablets for a long period of time, and
was getting a lot of algae. If your cyanuric acid is much over 50ppm
you need to lower it (by draining, there is no neutralizer available).

I have greatly reduced the ongoing cost of chemicals for my pool. I
buy Hasa 12.5% chlorine at $2.50 a gallon (returnable bottles) from a
pool store (not Leslie's) rather than paying $4-4.50 a gallon for 10%
chlorine in those two gallon box packs. I buy the highly concentrated
phosphate remover rather than the insanely priced Phosfree (which is
nearly 8x the cost). The acid I still buy in the two gallon box packs
because I don't use enough to make it worth buying in the returnable
bottles where you have to buy four gallons at a time.


Thanks....I'll look into it. Lot's to digest.

Jim

On 7/27/2011 7:49 AM, wrote:

But then I figured out that if I over-shock the pool, everything growing
in the pool dies overnight. Typically the green water turns cloudy white and
in a day or 2 the filter removes the white.

Yes, shocking the pool with a high dose of liquid chlorine is usually
the most effective (in terms of cost, time, and effort) of dealing with
an algae bloom.

Keeping algae out of your pool is not difficult or expensive.

1. Use liquid chlorine, not tri-chlor tablets. The latter contain too
much cyanuric acid (stabilizer) which builds up and causes chlorine lock.

2. Keep your cyanuric acid (stabilizer) level below 50 (see #1).

3. Keep the phosphate level close to 0 ppm. Use a highly concentrated
commercial phosphate remover because they are far less expensive than
products like Phosfree (the pool store I go to buys Orenda PR1000 in 55
gallon containers for their pool maintenance business, but don't want to
sell it to their retail customers). See
http://i52.tinypic.com/34e3mlz.jpg for a comparison of phosphate removers.

See
http://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/bestprice/OrendaTechnologiesPhosphateRemoverConcentrate-PR-10000-1GAL4andCS%7CPR-10000-GAL/68257

4. Keep the ph at the low end of the acceptable range, around 7.4.

5. Keep the chlorine at 2-3 ppm. If you are getting algae at those
levels then something else is wrong, and increasing the chlorine level
won't help.

6. Empty the skimmer basket often since the contents will decompose and
raise the phosphate level.

There should be no need for an algaecide if the phosphates, cyanuric
acid, chlorine level, and pH are at proper levels.

On 7/27/2011 1:53 AM, wrote:

I agree with Steve that if he's putting in a lot of chlorine
he may be lacking stabilizer. Key question, what form is
the chlorine that's being used? If it's liquid, there is no
stabilizer. If he's using trichlor, then that includes stabilizer.
You don't want to get too much, because once it's in
the only way to get it out is to drain the water.

Excessive stabilizer is the cause of a lot of pool problems. The use of
tri-chlor tablets is promoted heavily by pool stores, but they don't
make a version to use once your stabilizer is already high enough. I
have often overheard a pool store employee explaining to a disbelieving
customer that they must drain their pool because the cyanuric acid level
is too high and it's interfering with the sanitizer. Yet the cause of
this was the same pool store employee encouraging the use of tablets
versus liquid. There is no cyanuric acid neutralizer presently
available. Apparently there was such a product in the past but the side
effects were unacceptable.

The test for cyanuric acid is very subjective and you can get wildly
different readings depending on who is reading the result.

On 7/28/2011 11:21 AM, Jim T wrote:
On 7/28/2011 10:46 AM, SMS wrote:
On 7/26/2011 8:40 AM, Jim T wrote:
Last year I got hit with algae early so I got "phosfree" and it cleared
it up.

Went to a maintance dose of "pool perfect phosfree" earlier this year
and the algae came this year about two months ago.

First, stop using Phosfree. It is _far_ more expensive than other
Phosphate removers. I did a comparison a while back, see it at
http://i52.tinypic.com/34e3mlz.jpg. You may have to order the
PR10000 online as few pool stores will stock it (for obvious
reasons). You can go broke buying Phosfree at the local pool supply
chain store.

Part of my problem (i think) is I'm getting my phoshates checked at the
pool supply and they have changed help numerous times. I need a good
regent test for phosphates and I've been told that here before. The guy
told me 300ppb yesterday (but I really doubt that number) Usually in
the
low 100s.

Yes, test results often vary depending on who's doing the test and
what they want to sell you.

My knee jerk reaction is to buy more "Phosfree" but I don't know for
sure. *I do know* I'll be getting a phosphate regent test.

How high is your cyanuric acid level? I had the "chlorine lock"
problem after using tri-chlor tablets for a long period of time, and
was getting a lot of algae. If your cyanuric acid is much over 50ppm
you need to lower it (by draining, there is no neutralizer available).

I have greatly reduced the ongoing cost of chemicals for my pool. I
buy Hasa 12.5% chlorine at $2.50 a gallon (returnable bottles) from a
pool store (not Leslie's) rather than paying $4-4.50 a gallon for 10%
chlorine in those two gallon box packs. I buy the highly concentrated
phosphate remover rather than the insanely priced Phosfree (which is
nearly 8x the cost). The acid I still buy in the two gallon box packs
because I don't use enough to make it worth buying in the returnable
bottles where you have to buy four gallons at a time.


Thanks....I'll look into it. Lot's to digest.

Jim
I printed out your chart and ordered a pint of PR10k

Thanks for the tip.