Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

"John Doe" wrote in message
b.com...
Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Use it as screwdriver?

On May 5, 12:16*pm, John Doe wrote:
Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Because its durable and holds up when you throw it at a wall because
it stripped your screws and you are ****ed? Because you like the name
panasonic? Because life isnt perfect?

On May 5, 1:58*pm, "Charlie" wrote:
"John Doe" wrote in message

b.com...

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Use it as screwdriver?

Who would want a screw driver that starts at 100 RPM?

John Doe wrote:

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

On 2011-05-05, Pete C. wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

On May 5, 11:16*am, John Doe wrote:
Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

==
They are "variable speed" and can be run at any RPM you select within
the range they are designed for. You can't be very observant or are
totally incompetent or both.
==

On May 5, 8:57*pm, Roy wrote:
On May 5, 11:16*am, John Doe wrote:

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?

==
They are "variable speed" and can be run at any RPM you select within
the range they are designed for. You can't be very observant or are
totally incompetent or both.
==

TELL EM ROY..."ANTICIPATING THE FUTURE"
TGITM

On 5/5/2011 8:29 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-05, Pete wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

IMHO, a cordless is the wrong tool for production use on high-torque
applications. I have a cordless 24v B&D, and love it for small
light-duty jobs, but it doesn't do deck screws and similar chores worth
a damn. It did great with short drywall screws, and when I had to shoot
a couple hundred self-tapping panel screws putting my shed back together
after a tree fell on it, But after about 4 3.5" deck screws when
changing out some rotten boards, I ran out and bought a real corded
drill with a lot more torque. (I had smoked my previous corded drill, an
el cheapo B&D 3/8, drilling wiring holes through 40 year old framing
that was hard as a rock.)

--
aem sends....

notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-05, Pete C. wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

Impact drivers are far far better at the task than a drill/driver. As
for drill RPM, my Makita and Hilti drills both start from near zero RPM
and quite often those low RPMs are needed when getting a bit started
properly on center, getting a screw point started, etc. Again remember
matsu****a and run the other way with any of their brands.

Roy wilagro hotmail.com wrote:

John Doe j... usenetlove.invalid wrote:

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at
no less than 100 or 350 RPM?

=They are "variable speed" and can be run at any RPM you select
within the range they are designed for. You can't be very
observant or are totally incompetent or both.

You appear to be suffering from a reading comprehension problem.
Panasonic cordless drills run at no less than 100 RPM in low gear
and no less than 350 RPM in high gear.

I have nothing against Panasonic, but I keep running into that
stupid attribute of their drills, and it just seems crazy. No
other company in the world designs Their cordless drills to
prevent running at slower than 100 RPM, because it's a stupid
idea. That is just plain stupid, there is no other description.

Only a Panasonic fanboy could love a drill like that.
--










=
See also Google Groups
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From: Roy wilagro hotmail.com
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Subject: Panasonic cordless drills are just dumb?
Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 17:57:01 -0700 (PDT)
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John Doe wrote:
Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at no
less than 100 or 350 RPM?
Hmmm,
That is not a variable speed? Mine is. and reversible direction as well.

Tony Hwang dragon40 shaw.ca wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at
no less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Hmmm, That is not a variable speed? Mine is. and reversible
direction as well.

All of Panasonic's current cordless drills do not allow RPM of
less than 100 (no less than 350 in high gear). It has been that
way for years. And that's the way it is.

In article om,
John Doe wrote:

Tony Hwang dragon40 shaw.ca wrote:

John Doe wrote:

Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at
no less than 100 or 350 RPM?

Hmmm, That is not a variable speed? Mine is. and reversible
direction as well.

All of Panasonic's current cordless drills do not allow RPM of
less than 100 (no less than 350 in high gear). It has been that
way for years. And that's the way it is.

Perhaps Panasonic understands the relationship between torque and RPM,
and the uselessness of a drill that can do no reasonable amount of work.

On May 5, 10:19*pm, John Doe wrote:
Roy wilagro hotmail.com wrote:
John Doe j... usenetlove.invalid wrote:
Why on earth would anybody want a cordless drill that starts at
no less than 100 or 350 RPM?

=They are "variable speed" and can be run at any RPM you select
within the range they are designed for. You can't be very
observant or are totally incompetent or both.

You appear to be suffering from a reading comprehension problem.
Panasonic cordless drills run at no less than 100 RPM in low gear
and no less than 350 RPM in high gear.

I have nothing against Panasonic, but I keep running into that
stupid attribute of their drills, and it just seems crazy. No
other company in the world designs Their cordless drills to
prevent running at slower than 100 RPM, because it's a stupid
idea. That is just plain stupid, there is no other description.

Snipped unnecessary paranoid headers posting /

SO YOU MUST BE THE HEAD GENIUS.....THE MOTOR CAN RUN AT 100 RPMs, IT
IS GEARED DOWN TO A DECENT LEVEL..WHAT IS IMPORTANT IS THE TORQUE
CONSIDERATIONS.

PERSONALLY I THINK PANASONIC SHOULD STICK TO ENTERTAINMENT.

TGITM

On May 6, 5:19*am, wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2011 21:23:18 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:





On 5/5/2011 8:29 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-05, Pete *wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. *At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. *Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

IMHO, a cordless is the wrong tool for production use on high-torque
applications. I have a cordless 24v B&D, and love it for small
light-duty jobs, but it doesn't do deck screws and similar chores worth
a damn. It did great with short drywall screws, and when I had to shoot
a couple hundred self-tapping panel screws putting my shed back together
after a tree fell on it, But after about 4 3.5" deck screws when
changing out some rotten boards, I ran out and bought a real corded
drill with a lot more torque. (I had smoked my previous corded drill, an
el cheapo B&D 3/8, drilling wiring holes through 40 year old framing
that was hard as a rock.)

Why do people use cordless tools on a deck when there is almost alwys
an outlet no more than ten feet away? *Cordless tools are made for
situations where there is no electricity, or in places where the cord
is a big hassle, like on a roof. *And unless you have a top quality
commercial cordless, you're only asking to destroy the drill on 3.5"
deck screws. *Even a cheap corded drill has a tough time with those
screws. *

Last year I bought a small deck from someone who moved their mobile
home, and sold the deck. *It was only a few years old and in good
shape. *It was put together with deck screws. *I tried to dismantle it
using a cordless drill (no power was available). *None of my cordless
drills could remove the 3 to 4 inch deck screws. *Using a screwdriver
was even tough. *I got a trailer and a few friends to come over,
intending to just lift the whole deck on the trailer. *One guy brought
a very costly cordless drill, and I was surprised that it did remove
some of the screws, but his battery went dead at about the 8th screw,
and the battery had been fully charged. *We loaded the whole deck on
the trailer in one piece. *When I got it home, I did some
modifications to it, and had to remove some screws. *Even a small
corded drill had to struggle, but my big corded drill worked fine.
Once those deck screws are in the wood for awhile, they are almost
like someone glued them in. *I guess the wood expands from weather.

One other thing. *Some years ago I was overloading a cordless drill,
and the battery literally exploded. *Apparently it overheated. *My
hands, arms and face were cut when chunks of plastic flew from the
battery. *Someone else nearby also was hit and cut. *No one was
seriously hurt, but it was unexpected and it hurt, and could have been
worse if a piece had gone in someones eye or something.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I have an 18v sears cordless that has a lo/hi gear selector. I use it
pretty regularly to drive screws including deck screws with the low
setting. It does pretty well even on the 3 1/2" and 4" ones. But if
I have a lot to do I will get out the corded drill. I agree that any
situation where you have a lot of repetitions and power available it's
better to use corded tools. But you can't be the convenience of the
battery ones when all you have to do is a few things.

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

On 5/6/2011 8:44 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
....

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Same reason one might buy a railroad locomotive or jet engine from a
company that makes home appliances????

--

In article , dpb wrote:

On 5/6/2011 8:44 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
...

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Same reason one might buy a railroad locomotive or jet engine from a
company that makes home appliances????

--

Kenmore makes jet engines now?

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Because its the best? I have owned or used DeWalt, Bosch, Ryobi, Craftsman,
and Porter Cable cordless drills. My all time favorite is my 15.6V
Panasonic. Nice weight, size, balance.

"John Doe" wrote in message

You appear to be suffering from a reading comprehension problem.
Panasonic cordless drills run at no less than 100 RPM in low gear
and no less than 350 RPM in high gear.

I have nothing against Panasonic, but I keep running into that
stupid attribute of their drills, and it just seems crazy. No
other company in the world designs Their cordless drills to
prevent running at slower than 100 RPM,

Mine will turn much slower. It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

jamesgangnc wrote:
Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Hey! they make great telephones and bathroom exhaust fans.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article , dpb wrote:

On 5/6/2011 8:44 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
...

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Same reason one might buy a railroad locomotive or jet engine from a
company that makes home appliances????

--

Kenmore makes jet engines now?

They don't even make appliances.

In article
,
jamesgangnc wrote:

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

An archetypal true story told in business workshops is used to
illustrate the value and relevance of a mission statement. In the
sixties there were many television manufacturers in the U.S. Only one of
those companies survived: Motorola. Why? Because all the other companies
defined themselves as television manufacturers. Motorola defined
themselves as a consumer electronics company. When TV manufacturing went
to Japan in the seventies, everyone else died, but Motorola only
hiccuped.

In article , "Bob F"
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
In article , dpb wrote:

On 5/6/2011 8:44 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
...

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Same reason one might buy a railroad locomotive or jet engine from a
company that makes home appliances????

--

Kenmore makes jet engines now?

They don't even make appliances.

True, and I expected someone to point that out. I just had an image in
my mind, of a coppertone jet engine with a big "Lady Kenmore" logo on it.

On May 6, 10:02*am, dpb wrote:
On 5/6/2011 8:44 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
...

Better question is why would you buy a power tool from a tv
manufacturer?

Same reason one might buy a railroad locomotive or jet engine from a
company that makes home appliances????

--

Or healthcare equipment from a company that leases airplanes?

(GE)

On May 5, 8:29*pm, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-05, Pete C. wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. *At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. *Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

"Who is so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?"

Anyone who uses a screwdriver for other applications than building
decks.

Of course, that doesn't make the user stupid.

I don't want my screwdriver to *always* be slower than 100RPM, but I
certainly want the option of having it *start* at less than 100 RPM.

On May 6, 5:19*am, wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2011 21:23:18 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:





On 5/5/2011 8:29 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-05, Pete *wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. *At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. *Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

IMHO, a cordless is the wrong tool for production use on high-torque
applications. I have a cordless 24v B&D, and love it for small
light-duty jobs, but it doesn't do deck screws and similar chores worth
a damn. It did great with short drywall screws, and when I had to shoot
a couple hundred self-tapping panel screws putting my shed back together
after a tree fell on it, But after about 4 3.5" deck screws when
changing out some rotten boards, I ran out and bought a real corded
drill with a lot more torque. (I had smoked my previous corded drill, an
el cheapo B&D 3/8, drilling wiring holes through 40 year old framing
that was hard as a rock.)

Why do people use cordless tools on a deck when there is almost alwys
an outlet no more than ten feet away? *Cordless tools are made for
situations where there is no electricity, or in places where the cord
is a big hassle, like on a roof. *And unless you have a top quality
commercial cordless, you're only asking to destroy the drill on 3.5"
deck screws. *Even a cheap corded drill has a tough time with those
screws. *

Last year I bought a small deck from someone who moved their mobile
home, and sold the deck. *It was only a few years old and in good
shape. *It was put together with deck screws. *I tried to dismantle it
using a cordless drill (no power was available). *None of my cordless
drills could remove the 3 to 4 inch deck screws. *Using a screwdriver
was even tough. *I got a trailer and a few friends to come over,
intending to just lift the whole deck on the trailer. *One guy brought
a very costly cordless drill, and I was surprised that it did remove
some of the screws, but his battery went dead at about the 8th screw,
and the battery had been fully charged. *We loaded the whole deck on
the trailer in one piece. *When I got it home, I did some
modifications to it, and had to remove some screws. *Even a small
corded drill had to struggle, but my big corded drill worked fine.
Once those deck screws are in the wood for awhile, they are almost
like someone glued them in. *I guess the wood expands from weather.

One other thing. *Some years ago I was overloading a cordless drill,
and the battery literally exploded. *Apparently it overheated. *My
hands, arms and face were cut when chunks of plastic flew from the
battery. *Someone else nearby also was hit and cut. *No one was
seriously hurt, but it was unexpected and it hurt, and could have been
worse if a piece had gone in someones eye or something.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Cordless tools are made for situations where there is no
electricity, or in places where the cord is a big hassle, like on a
roof."

I can't recall a time where I needed to pull out my corded drill
because my DeWalt cordless coudn't handle the task. I've build/rebuilt
decks, docks, sheds, cabins, and houses.

The only time I use my corded drill is when I need a hammer drill.

"One guy brought a very costly cordless drill, and I was surprised
that it did remove some of the screws, but his battery went dead at
about the 8th screw, and the battery had been fully charged."

That doesn't tell us anything about cordless drills in general. I had
a Dewalt a few years back where the batteries were shot. "Fully
charged" meant nothing from a usage-time perspective. They would die
after a very short time under minimal loads. Of course, they would
charge up again in a very short time so I was never without a battery,
but what a pain.

Unless someone else had a "very costly " (what does that mean?)
cordless drill that also used up a "fully charged" battery after only
8 screws (really?) then it's very possible that the drill/battery was
the problem, not the use of a cordless drill in that situation.

I wonder how many contractors out there still use a corded drill on an
everyday basis, determined by whether electricity is available or not.

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:


for drill RPM, my Makita and Hilti drills both start from near zero RPM

Are you retarded? All drills start from "near zero". In fact, I feel
I can say wihout fear of contradiction they ALL start from EXACTLY zero.

and quite often those low RPMs are needed when getting a bit started
properly on center.....

A bit? As in drill bit? Anyone not properly center punching a
starting point in metal or can't start a drill bit in wood at less
than 2 revolutions per second should put the tool down and go play
with some fuzzy toys in the rubber room.

Are you really this stupid or are you getting shots?

nb

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On May 6, 5:19*am, wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2011 21:23:18 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:





On 5/5/2011 8:29 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-05, Pete *wrote:

Beware of all things mastu****a (parent company of Panasonic and
others)...

Beware of stupid posts!

A coarse thread 3-1/2" deck screw has approx 28-35 threads. *At 100
rpm, that's a minimum of just over 15 secs to drive one screw. *Who is
so stupid as to want a screwdriver slower than that?

nb

IMHO, a cordless is the wrong tool for production use on high-torque
applications. I have a cordless 24v B&D, and love it for small
light-duty jobs, but it doesn't do deck screws and similar chores worth
a damn. It did great with short drywall screws, and when I had to shoot
a couple hundred self-tapping panel screws putting my shed back together
after a tree fell on it, But after about 4 3.5" deck screws when
changing out some rotten boards, I ran out and bought a real corded
drill with a lot more torque. (I had smoked my previous corded drill, an
el cheapo B&D 3/8, drilling wiring holes through 40 year old framing
that was hard as a rock.)

Why do people use cordless tools on a deck when there is almost alwys
an outlet no more than ten feet away? *Cordless tools are made for
situations where there is no electricity, or in places where the cord
is a big hassle, like on a roof. *And unless you have a top quality
commercial cordless, you're only asking to destroy the drill on 3.5"
deck screws. *Even a cheap corded drill has a tough time with those
screws. *

Last year I bought a small deck from someone who moved their mobile
home, and sold the deck. *It was only a few years old and in good
shape. *It was put together with deck screws. *I tried to dismantle it
using a cordless drill (no power was available). *None of my cordless
drills could remove the 3 to 4 inch deck screws. *Using a screwdriver
was even tough. *I got a trailer and a few friends to come over,
intending to just lift the whole deck on the trailer. *One guy brought
a very costly cordless drill, and I was surprised that it did remove
some of the screws, but his battery went dead at about the 8th screw,
and the battery had been fully charged. *We loaded the whole deck on
the trailer in one piece. *When I got it home, I did some
modifications to it, and had to remove some screws. *Even a small
corded drill had to struggle, but my big corded drill worked fine.
Once those deck screws are in the wood for awhile, they are almost
like someone glued them in. *I guess the wood expands from weather.

One other thing. *Some years ago I was overloading a cordless drill,
and the battery literally exploded. *Apparently it overheated. *My
hands, arms and face were cut when chunks of plastic flew from the
battery. *Someone else nearby also was hit and cut. *No one was
seriously hurt, but it was unexpected and it hurt, and could have been
worse if a piece had gone in someones eye or something.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Cordless tools are made for situations where there is no
electricity, or in places where the cord is a big hassle, like on a
roof."

I can't recall a time where I needed to pull out my corded drill
because my DeWalt cordless coudn't handle the task. I've build/rebuilt
decks, docks, sheds, cabins, and houses.

The only time I use my corded drill is when I need a hammer drill.

"One guy brought a very costly cordless drill, and I was surprised
that it did remove some of the screws, but his battery went dead at
about the 8th screw, and the battery had been fully charged."

That doesn't tell us anything about cordless drills in general. I had
a Dewalt a few years back where the batteries were shot. "Fully
charged" meant nothing from a usage-time perspective. They would die
after a very short time under minimal loads. Of course, they would
charge up again in a very short time so I was never without a battery,
but what a pain.

Unless someone else had a "very costly " (what does that mean?)
cordless drill that also used up a "fully charged" battery after only
8 screws (really?) then it's very possible that the drill/battery was
the problem, not the use of a cordless drill in that situation.

I wonder how many contractors out there still use a corded drill on an
everyday basis, determined by whether electricity is available or not.

I'll put you down as one vote in favor of cordless, then.

On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Mine will turn much slower. It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

This is an advantage, how? What point is there in having a drill that
turns slower? Howzabout 50 rpm? One revolution per second slow
enough for you?

Wait! I do have one electrical device that turns at exactly 1 rpm.
It's my friggin' clock!!

nb

In article ,
notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:


for drill RPM, my Makita and Hilti drills both start from near zero RPM

Are you retarded? All drills start from "near zero". In fact, I feel
I can say wihout fear of contradiction they ALL start from EXACTLY zero.

and quite often those low RPMs are needed when getting a bit started
properly on center.....

A bit? As in drill bit? Anyone not properly center punching a
starting point in metal or can't start a drill bit in wood at less
than 2 revolutions per second should put the tool down and go play
with some fuzzy toys in the rubber room.

Are you really this stupid or are you getting shots?

nb

Center punching is for sissies, as is starting a hole with the drill
running slowly. Use a split point drill so it won't walk, pull the damn
trigger and drill the hole. If your hands are shaking so bad that you
can't line up a drill with a mark, then I agree, you shouldn't be using
power tools.

"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Mine will turn much slower. It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

This is an advantage, how? What point is there in having a drill that
turns slower? Howzabout 50 rpm? One revolution per second slow
enough for you?

Wait! I do have one electrical device that turns at exactly 1 rpm.
It's my friggin' clock!!

nb

Very slow can, at times, be a help starting a screw with no pilot hole.
Once you go about 4 turns, it makes no difference at all.

notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:

for drill RPM, my Makita and Hilti drills both start from near zero RPM

Are you retarded? All drills start from "near zero". In fact, I feel
I can say wihout fear of contradiction they ALL start from EXACTLY zero.

The reference is to the lowest driven speed on the variable speed
trigger. Quality drills will start and run at very slow and controlled
RPMs. The noted matsu****a drill jumps from zero to 100 RPM+.


and quite often those low RPMs are needed when getting a bit started
properly on center.....

A bit? As in drill bit? Anyone not properly center punching a
starting point in metal or can't start a drill bit in wood at less
than 2 revolutions per second should put the tool down and go play
with some fuzzy toys in the rubber room.

Low RPM centering is generally required starting the Hilti hammer drill
on concrete. Center punching metal is an extra step that required
significant extra time handling other tools and is entirely unnecessary
in many cases if you have a quality drill and know how to use it.
Starting drill bits in wood is pretty easy, but starting long screws in
hard wood requires low RPM initial drive to keep the drive bit properly
engaged while the screw point is getting started and the screw is
unstable.


Are you really this stupid or are you getting shots?

Im not stupid, but either you are or you're just trolling.

notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Mine will turn much slower. It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

This is an advantage, how? What point is there in having a drill that
turns slower? Howzabout 50 rpm? One revolution per second slow
enough for you?

Wait! I do have one electrical device that turns at exactly 1 rpm.
It's my friggin' clock!!

nb

I guess you don't do any drilling in thick / structural metal, otherwise
you would know that 100 RPM is over the top speed for larger drill bits
like 1/2"+ in thick metal like 1/4"+ steel.

On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Very slow can, at times, be a help starting a screw with no pilot hole.

In my reality, less than 2 revolutions per second IS "very slow" and
I'm so old, I'm almost carbon dateable. I guess as a one-time
machinist and someone who grew up using drill motors before the
apparently now can't-do-without variable speed control, I don't
understand why someone needs speeds slower than the orbit of the moon
around earth to start a drill. Silly me.

No wonder manufacturing has been moved off-shore. Even "semi-skilled"
appears to be an unattainable goal by our younger generations of drug
addled dolts.

nb

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:

....but either you are or you're just trolling.

Funny, I was gonna say the same of you.

You've yet to present a single situation where less than 2 revs per
sec is too fast for anyone with enough skill to hold an electric
handtool w/o maiming themselves or others unless they are crippled,
retarded, or spastic.

nb

In article .com,
"Pete C." wrote:

notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Mine will turn much slower. It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

This is an advantage, how? What point is there in having a drill that
turns slower? Howzabout 50 rpm? One revolution per second slow
enough for you?

Wait! I do have one electrical device that turns at exactly 1 rpm.
It's my friggin' clock!!

nb

I guess you don't do any drilling in thick / structural metal, otherwise
you would know that 100 RPM is over the top speed for larger drill bits
like 1/2"+ in thick metal like 1/4"+ steel.

I'll agree with you there, but would you really use a cordless drill for
that?

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:

I guess you don't do any drilling in thick / structural metal, otherwise
you would know that 100 RPM is over the top speed for larger drill bits
like 1/2"+ in thick metal like 1/4"+ steel.

I'm a machinist. I also have an old all-metal Milwaukee 1/2" hand
drill motor with one speed, 400 rpm. Anyone who uses ANY hand drill,
with or w/o variable speed, to drive a half inch or larger drill bit
in 1/4" steel w/o first driving a pilot hole or using a mag-base is a
complete moron and a hack and deserves the broken wrist/hand/arm they
will eventually sustain.

nb

On May 6, 11:57*am, notbob wrote:
On 2011-05-06, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Mine will turn much slower. *It will barely move at the lowest setting.
Mine is a 15.6V, but perhaps other sizes are different.

This is an advantage, how? *What point is there in having a drill that
turns slower? *Howzabout 50 rpm? *One revolution per second slow
enough for you?


Wait! *I do have one electrical device that turns at exactly 1 rpm.
It's my friggin' clock!!

*Exactly* 1 RPM?

Wow, that must be a really expensive clock!

Cesium beam controlled, perhaps?

No, wait, even the so-called "atomic clocks" need to be adjusted from
time to time (no pun intended)

*Exactly* 1 RPM? That must be some friggin' clock!

notbob wrote:

On 2011-05-06, Pete C. wrote:

....but either you are or you're just trolling.

Funny, I was gonna say the same of you.

You've yet to present a single situation where less than 2 revs per
sec is too fast for anyone with enough skill to hold an electric
handtool w/o maiming themselves or others unless they are crippled,
retarded, or spastic.

nb

I most certainly did, and everyone else read it troll.