i posted a note earlier asking if anyone had the owner's manual for the
cordless drill because the batteries seem to be losing power too quickly and
not recharging sufficiently. i was told to buy a new drill, it would be
cheaper.... i was told how to split the battery paks to get to the nicad
batteries...

i did check into the cost of battery replacements.... yep...they are expensive
and cost nearly as much as if i do go out and buy a new drill. i have a number
of corded drills, but the cordless is handy to have in the shop and to do misc.
household chores.

i am a hobbyist....i don't make my living from construction and furniture
making. so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws.... what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

what is the general consensus of the HF cordless drills....... i have bought a
number of items from HF and have not had any problem with their merchandise...
Drill Master ??? Chicago Electric ??? i am leaning towards the craftsman 12V
cordless...

sorry to be a bother..... but that is the purpose behind this NG, isn't it?

thanx in advance....

Sat, Aug 2, 2003, 9:48pm (EDT+4) (WARRENRN1) wants to
know:
snip exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an
18V snip

What is more power?

JOAT
Everything happens for a reason, except possibly football.
- Lu-Tze

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 23 Jul 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...All/page4.html

On 02 Aug 2003 21:48:49 GMT, (WARRENRN1) wrote:

SNIP

i am a hobbyist....i don't make my living from construction and furniture
making. so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws.... what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

SNIP

The higher voltage drills/drivers make more torque.

I use the 9.6V Makita line because it'll do the job I need done and
it's small enough to get inside the equipment I work on, mostly.
That's not true for the higher voltage units because of the handle
size; the bulge on the bottom can be a show-stopper if you're trying
to get inside an oven or reach-in refrigerator/freezer or ice maker.

I use the Makita every day at work, and write off a couple thousand
dollars in tool purchases each year.

I 'recycle' my older Makitas to the model building shed where they
live on for a few more years; I've got four of the things now, and
they're all 9.6V.

As for Crapsman, I'll never buy another Sears product. Never, ever.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com

"Fred McClellan" wrote in message
...


The higher voltage drills/drivers make more torque.

I use the 9.6V Makita line because it'll do the job I need done and
it's small enough to get inside the equipment I work on, mostly.
That's not true for the higher voltage units because of the handle
size; the bulge on the bottom can be a show-stopper if you're trying
to get inside an oven or reach-in refrigerator/freezer or ice maker.

For those tight spaces where drilling is not involved, a cordless
screwdriver is indispensable. About $20. I have an old Makita set too, the
flashlights still get used but the batteries are dying one by one.

MH

"WARRENRN1" wrote in message to do misc.

Snip

so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V
cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws....
what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i
will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for
that....

The biggest difference between these very similar voiltage drills is that
the higher voltage drills will give you a longer run time between charges.
In addition some higher voltage drills will offer marginally more torque. I
say marginal because that little bit of extra power costs much more than a
9.6 or 12 volt version. If you need the extra power compliment your 9.6 or
12 volt model with a 120 volt model. I personally have 4, 9.6 volt drills
and appreciate the light weight of their batteries. The larger volt models
can get pretty heavy.

And ONE DAY, we will have a 110 volt drill!!! Isn't that exciting??

On Sat, 2 Aug 2003 18:15:36 -0400 (EDT),
(Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT) wrote:

Sat, Aug 2, 2003, 9:48pm (EDT+4) (WARRENRN1) wants to
know:
snip exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an
18V snip

What is more power?

JOAT
Everything happens for a reason, except possibly football.
- Lu-Tze

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 23 Jul 2003. Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...All/page4.html

Check out http://www.primecell.com/ and see if a rebuilt battery might help.
I sent one of mine in (18v Dewalt) and it worked great when I got it back.
Click on "Cordless Power Tools" for a list of batteries, and check out the
FAQ on "When is a Battery Bad".

Preston
"WARRENRN1" wrote in message
...
i posted a note earlier asking if anyone had the owner's manual for the
cordless drill because the batteries seem to be losing power too quickly
and
not recharging sufficiently. i was told to buy a new drill, it would be
cheaper.... i was told how to split the battery paks to get to the nicad
batteries...

i did check into the cost of battery replacements.... yep...they are
expensive
and cost nearly as much as if i do go out and buy a new drill. i have a
number
of corded drills, but the cordless is handy to have in the shop and to do
misc.
household chores.

i am a hobbyist....i don't make my living from construction and furniture
making. so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V
cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws....
what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i
will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for
that....

what is the general consensus of the HF cordless drills....... i have
bought a
number of items from HF and have not had any problem with their
merchandise...
Drill Master ??? Chicago Electric ??? i am leaning towards the craftsman
12V
cordless...

sorry to be a bother..... but that is the purpose behind this NG, isn't
it?

thanx in advance....

Fred McClellan wrote in message . ..
On 02 Aug 2003 21:48:49 GMT, (WARRENRN1) wrote:

SNIP

i am a hobbyist....i don't make my living from construction and furniture
making. so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws.... what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

SNIP

The higher voltage drills/drivers make more torque.

I use the 9.6V Makita line because it'll do the job I need done and
it's small enough to get inside the equipment I work on, mostly.
That's not true for the higher voltage units because of the handle
size; the bulge on the bottom can be a show-stopper if you're trying
to get inside an oven or reach-in refrigerator/freezer or ice maker.

I use the Makita every day at work, and write off a couple thousand
dollars in tool purchases each year.


I'll second the above. In particular the Makita 9.6 angle drill is a
joy to use (as is the 3 1/2" circle saw - minus guard).

"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote in message
....
And ONE DAY, we will have a 110 volt drill!!! Isn't that exciting??

I can't wait. If they come out with one, I'll replace the battery with a
cord and I won't have to worry about recharging it. I bet that will impress
the neighbors.
Ed

bigger isn't always more powerful. Check out an impact driver like the Makita
DWDE9616 (hope I remembered the model number correctly...) 12 volts, small size
and more than 800 " lbs of torque.

dave

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"MSH" mnd@jaacom wrote in message
For those tight spaces where drilling is not involved, a cordless
screwdriver is indispensable. About $20. I have an old Makita set too, the
flashlights still get used but the batteries are dying one by one.

MH

I have one of them. It has a plastic handle that fits in the palm or your
hand. Just give the screw a half turn from the wrist, repeat as necessary!

Seriously, I do have the B&D Versa Pack that bends to an angle. Not as
fast as a drill, but light and simple to use, especially in tight spaces.

I have a 14.4 drill. I set out to buy an 18 volt, but after handling one,
it was just too heavy for my needs. Bigger may be more powerful, but it is
not always better. For the average home handyman, it is more than enough
power and battery life.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

(Jack-of-all-trades - JOAT) wrote:

snip exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an
18V snip

What is more power?

JOAT

And at the 18v level, more weight.

Wes
--
Reply to:
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Gee Tee EYE EYE dot COM
Lycos address is a spam trap.

"WARRENRN1" wrote in message
...
i posted a note earlier asking if anyone had the owner's manual for the
cordless drill because the batteries seem to be losing power too quickly
and
not recharging sufficiently.

Warren, the battery may have setttled into a light recharge condition where
it's not deep charging anymore. Have you tried draining it completely before
recharging? Not just to the point where it won't turn the drill, but
completely, by attaching a light load across the terminals (light bulb,
maybe) and draining it so it doesn't movbe the needle on a voltmeter. I had
a Braun flashgun that would stop holding a charge after a couple of months.
The drain-completely technique always restored it. It doesn't cost anything
to try, either. Good luck.
-- Ernie

On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 23:11:02 -0400, Trent©
wrote:

as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

If you get a good quality drill, you won't need the corded drill.

Hardly. There isn't a cordless drill made that will do as good a job
as a corded one when it comes to heavy duty drilling. You don't see
many plumbers or electricians trying to make holes through framing
lumber with a cordless drill.

Relative to driving screws - we recently had a deck built on the
parsonage by volunteer labor. They put the deck planks down with 3"
square drive deck screws. It seems to me that there were 2 14v drills
and an 18v one involved. Almost none of the screws were driven flush,
let alone countersunk, the drills just didn't have the umph to do it.
When one went dead and I pulled out my Milwaukee hole shooter for them
to finish with they were amazed at how easily it ran the screws in.
Sometimes you just can't get enough from a battery to do the job at
hand.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

Same here Tim. Ther are times (ESPECIALLY when you have electricity
available) that a corded drill is the only way to go. For "most"
projects, a cordless does me well. But for HEAVY DUTY work like you
are talking about, I'd haul out my Milwaukee druills in a heartbeat
and never consider a cordless. But lets face it, how often do we run
into a situation like a deck job? I try to avoid them but am looking
at one right now in my back yard. And it's over 100 degrees. Lets move
on.

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 12:40:51 -0700, Tim Douglass
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 23:11:02 -0400, Trent©
wrote:

as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

If you get a good quality drill, you won't need the corded drill.

Hardly. There isn't a cordless drill made that will do as good a job
as a corded one when it comes to heavy duty drilling. You don't see
many plumbers or electricians trying to make holes through framing
lumber with a cordless drill.

Relative to driving screws - we recently had a deck built on the
parsonage by volunteer labor. They put the deck planks down with 3"
square drive deck screws. It seems to me that there were 2 14v drills
and an 18v one involved. Almost none of the screws were driven flush,
let alone countersunk, the drills just didn't have the umph to do it.
When one went dead and I pulled out my Milwaukee hole shooter for them
to finish with they were amazed at how easily it ran the screws in.
Sometimes you just can't get enough from a battery to do the job at
hand.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

Hardly. There isn't a cordless drill made that will do as good a job
as a corded one when it comes to heavy duty drilling. You don't see
many plumbers or electricians trying to make holes through framing
lumber with a cordless drill.

I ran a good bit of cable, running 6/3 from my main panel to the
garage, then 12/2 all over the garage, with just my lil' ol' cordless, a
Ryobi 14.4 All of the holes were with cheap 3/4" or 1" spade bits. The
battery did eventually die, but (a) it did a LOT before it did, and (b)
that's why you have a second (or third) battery.

Relative to driving screws - we recently had a deck built on the
parsonage by volunteer labor. They put the deck planks down with 3"
square drive deck screws. It seems to me that there were 2 14v drills
and an 18v one involved. Almost none of the screws were driven flush,
let alone countersunk, the drills just didn't have the umph to do it.

My Ryobi, on "high-speed, low-torque" setting has enough oomph to snap
off screw heads from a standstill. Countersinking isn't a problem. I
went over to a friend's house a couple of months ago, and drilled 3"
screws into his kitchen floor joists all night long without a problem.
And I have a hard time believing that any of the other good names wouldn't
do just as well.

steve

Tim,

had they used cordless impact drivers, they could have run the screws all the way
thru the boards. My Makita 12V impact driver has over 800 "/lbs of torque.
That'll drive any deck screw you can throw at it. Otherwise, I agree that a
corded drill has more power than your typical cordless. But there's no clutch OR
electric brake. That makes using the hole shooter a genuine PITA.

dave

Tim Douglass wrote:

On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 23:11:02 -0400, Trent©
wrote:

as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

If you get a good quality drill, you won't need the corded drill.

Hardly. There isn't a cordless drill made that will do as good a job
as a corded one when it comes to heavy duty drilling. You don't see
many plumbers or electricians trying to make holes through framing
lumber with a cordless drill.

Relative to driving screws - we recently had a deck built on the
parsonage by volunteer labor. They put the deck planks down with 3"
square drive deck screws. It seems to me that there were 2 14v drills
and an 18v one involved. Almost none of the screws were driven flush,
let alone countersunk, the drills just didn't have the umph to do it.
When one went dead and I pulled out my Milwaukee hole shooter for them
to finish with they were amazed at how easily it ran the screws in.
Sometimes you just can't get enough from a battery to do the job at
hand.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

"Tim Douglass" wrote in message
Hardly. There isn't a cordless drill made that will do as good a job
as a corded one when it comes to heavy duty drilling. You don't see
many plumbers or electricians trying to make holes through framing
lumber with a cordless drill.

PREsisely...



Relative to driving screws - we recently had a deck built on the
parsonage by volunteer labor. They put the deck planks down with 3"
square drive deck screws. It seems to me that there were 2 14v drills
and an 18v one involved. Almost none of the screws were driven flush,
let alone countersunk, the drills just didn't have the umph to do it.
When one went dead and I pulled out my Milwaukee hole shooter for them
to finish with they were amazed at how easily it ran the screws in.
Sometimes you just can't get enough from a battery to do the job at
hand.

I always use the 120 volt variety drill when building decks. Way faster and
the screws do go in al they way.

You might check to see if there is a Sears Surplus near you.
I was at one near me this week which had 15.7 V units with charger and
two batteries for $60. They had other configurations as well.

I consider myself a hobbyist, but I also figured out that my drill is
the single most used tool in my shop. I don't skimp here.

Mark from Pasadena, MD

WARRENRN1 wrote:
i posted a note earlier asking if anyone had the owner's manual for the
cordless drill because the batteries seem to be losing power too quickly and
not recharging sufficiently. i was told to buy a new drill, it would be
cheaper.... i was told how to split the battery paks to get to the nicad
batteries...

i did check into the cost of battery replacements.... yep...they are expensive
and cost nearly as much as if i do go out and buy a new drill. i have a number
of corded drills, but the cordless is handy to have in the shop and to do misc.
household chores.

i am a hobbyist....i don't make my living from construction and furniture
making. so i ask this question because i do not know the difference.....
exactly what is the difference between a 9.6V, 12V, 14.4V and an 18V cordless
drill, besides, obviously the cost? i drill holes, screw in screws.... what
makes one much better than the others... as for heavy duty drilling, i will
shag an extension cord and bring out the heavy duty corded job for that....

what is the general consensus of the HF cordless drills....... i have bought a
number of items from HF and have not had any problem with their merchandise...
Drill Master ??? Chicago Electric ??? i am leaning towards the craftsman 12V
cordless...

sorry to be a bother..... but that is the purpose behind this NG, isn't it?

thanx in advance....