We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

On 2/8/2011 1:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There are commercially available strain reliefs which can be found on
the Internet, depending on the cord size, the cut-out hole size, and the
shape of the cut-out. See, as a single example:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2243855113

A Google search will yield many other options.

The approach you are using with tubing may work perfectly well. Another
approach is to use some RTV / silicone caulk to fill the void,
essentially building your own custom gasket. This would be particularly
useful if the cut-out hole is a "D" shape or some other irregular cut-out.

The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

Go to the electrical section of your local hardware, and ask
for a "Romex connector". Should look like this.
http://www.electrical-forensics.com/...e-1b-Large.jpg
You'll have to enlarge the hole in the back of the
appliance, but it will save you labor in the long run, not
replacing the cord. And much safer.

Any electrician should have them, and will probably give you
one free, if you ask politely. He may also have the
necessary punch, to enlarge the hole in back of your
appliance.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord
with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the
back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty,
but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of
stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the
cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Will an Underwriters Knot help keep the metal case from
wearing through the insullation and shorting out the wires?
Methinks thou hast misunderstood the question.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"deadgoose" wrote in message
...
The early plugs were designed to be used with an
"Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD

On 2/8/2011 12:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Smarty posted a link to something that was probably the original type
strain relief. The part snaps into a squared off hole that usually
rounded at the top and bottom. The flat lamp cord lays in it and the
retainer pushes the cable down into the housing which then snaps into
the hole. It's easily done with slip joint pliers. You may find the
strain reliefs in the parts drawers in the electrical aisle at Home
Depot or in plastic bags hanging with other small electrical parts
there.

TDD

On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 02:47:10 -0500, Smarty wrote:

On 2/8/2011 1:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There are commercially available strain reliefs which can be found on
the Internet, depending on the cord size, the cut-out hole size, and the
shape of the cut-out. See, as a single example:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2243855113

When I did a search, the results were all way too big, like these:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=2330976

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/str...ecatalog/N-8fq

http://www.drillspot.com/products/43...ight_Mesh_Grip

The opening in the housing is just barely larger than the cord and had
no fitting whatsoever right now. That's why I was thinking rubber
tubing that I could squeeze into the opening.

On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 05:25:19 -0800 (PST), deadgoose
wrote:

The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

Yes, that's very handy to know. In this case, the strain is not inside
where it connects, it's right at the opening. The cord gets bent back
and forth and over time the wires inside break, causing a short. I
long ago replaced the bare wires wrapped around the screws with crimp
terminals, so that's working great. Also, there isn't room inside
there for a knot, but this is a nice trick that I'll file away
somewhere for future use.

On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 08:30:56 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Will an Underwriters Knot help keep the metal case from
wearing through the insullation and shorting out the wires?
Methinks thou hast misunderstood the question.

I also didn't say anything about the case wearing through the
insulation. Methinks thou hast spent too much time reading your Book
of Moron and not enough reading posts carefully.

On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 07:44:37 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/8/2011 12:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Smarty posted a link to something that was probably the original type
strain relief. The part snaps into a squared off hole that usually
rounded at the top and bottom. The flat lamp cord lays in it and the
retainer pushes the cable down into the housing which then snaps into
the hole. It's easily done with slip joint pliers. You may find the
strain reliefs in the parts drawers in the electrical aisle at Home
Depot or in plastic bags hanging with other small electrical parts
there.

I'm going to stop by The Borg later today and see what they have. The
opening is very tight. I don't think any of the metal or hard plastic
ones will work.

I tried a Bing search which turned up some nylon versions, which might
work if they come small enough:

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u..._pgnpt_p5.html

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u...edbody_p8.html

They also look nicer.

Then I found these from Heyco, a company that specializes in wire
protection, which look to be exactly what I need:

http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-06-2b.html
http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-17a.html

Not finding a shopping cart, I called to inquire and was directed to
the Sample Request page, where I was able to request 2-3 samples. Very
cool.

On Feb 8, 8:29*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Go to the electrical section of your local hardware, and ask
for a "Romex connector". Should look like this.
* *http://www.electrical-forensics.com/...er-MyHome-1b-L...
You'll have to enlarge the hole in the back of the
appliance, but it will save you labor in the long run, not
replacing the cord. And much safer.

Any electrician should have them, and will probably give you
one free, if you ask politely. He may also have the
necessary punch, to enlarge the hole in back of your
appliance.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message

...
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord
with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the
back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty,
but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of
stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the
cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Automotive stores offer a wide range of rubber plugs and grommets that
may be useful. When I need one I tend to be more interested in finding
a plug that will fit because I can always make a hole in it. Use
these with the Underwriter's knot

Jimmie

On Feb 8, 8:29*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Go to the electrical section of your local hardware, and ask
for a "Romex connector". Should look like this.
* *http://www.electrical-forensics.com/...er-MyHome-1b-L...
You'll have to enlarge the hole in the back of the
appliance, but it will save you labor in the long run, not
replacing the cord. And much safer.

Any electrician should have them, and will probably give you
one free, if you ask politely. He may also have the
necessary punch, to enlarge the hole in back of your
appliance.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message

...
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord
with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the
back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty,
but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of
stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the
cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

On 2/8/2011 8:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

That picture is bothering me. Put more of the dang wire under the
screws!!!!!!!!!!!

Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There is a thing called 'black electrical tape'. Wrap the cord so that
it fits tight in the hole. A knot in the inside will also provide strain
relief. Or buy a plastic cord clamp that fits the hole.

On Feb 8, 1:25*am, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

A strain relief is also suppose to reduce the amount of travel the
cord
bends at any point. Some "strain reliefs" do NOT do this.

I often use multiple heat shrinking on cords. Using a piece of tubing
is also good.
I use a Tywrap to secure, and often use hot melt glue to
stabilize.

greg

On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 12:51:44 -0500, LSMFT wrote:

Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There is a thing called 'black electrical tape'. Wrap the cord so that
it fits tight in the hole. A knot in the inside will also provide strain
relief. Or buy a plastic cord clamp that fits the hole.

Electrical tape is a good idea if I can't find a grommet that will
fit. Thanks.

"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

PW What I use is a coiled spring slide over cord and then twisted into the
opening. The spring is the compression type. This allows the cord to bend in
a larger radius sort of like the cords on a clothes iron. WW

You said "it still shorts out". So, tell me. Aside from the
metal cutting the wire and making connection between, how
would it "still short out"?

Please describe one of the "shorts out" and tell us all how
that happens?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 08:30:56 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Will an Underwriters Knot help keep the metal case from
wearing through the insullation and shorting out the wires?
Methinks thou hast misunderstood the question.

I also didn't say anything about the case wearing through
the
insulation. Methinks thou hast spent too much time reading
your Book
of Moron and not enough reading posts carefully.

Prof Wonmug wonmug moo.gov wrote:

We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back.
I have replaced the original cord with one that it more
heavy-duty, but it still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go
get a piece of stiff tubing about 1" long that will fit into the
hole and run the cord through that. Is there a better idea?

If you're good with hot melt glue, you can make strain relief for
plugs with that. As always, clean the parts and make sure they get
very hot.

On 2/8/2011 10:41 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 07:44:37 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/8/2011 12:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Smarty posted a link to something that was probably the original type
strain relief. The part snaps into a squared off hole that usually
rounded at the top and bottom. The flat lamp cord lays in it and the
retainer pushes the cable down into the housing which then snaps into
the hole. It's easily done with slip joint pliers. You may find the
strain reliefs in the parts drawers in the electrical aisle at Home
Depot or in plastic bags hanging with other small electrical parts
there.

I'm going to stop by The Borg later today and see what they have. The
opening is very tight. I don't think any of the metal or hard plastic
ones will work.

I tried a Bing search which turned up some nylon versions, which might
work if they come small enough:

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u..._pgnpt_p5.html

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u...edbody_p8.html

They also look nicer.

Then I found these from Heyco, a company that specializes in wire
protection, which look to be exactly what I need:

http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-06-2b.html
http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-17a.html

Not finding a shopping cart, I called to inquire and was directed to
the Sample Request page, where I was able to request 2-3 samples. Very
cool.

OK that one is better because it's the same bushing Smarty and me are
referring to but it has the tail which keeps the wire from bending at
a sharp angle. I used to repair a lot of CB radios and I had a stock
of fine wire springs that I slid over the microphone cable and hooked
a bent out section to crimp to the connector to keep the cable from
being bent at a sharp angle which would break the wires inside.

TDD

On 08 Feb 2011 19:51:26 GMT, John Doe wrote:

Prof Wonmug wonmug moo.gov wrote:

We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back.
I have replaced the original cord with one that it more
heavy-duty, but it still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go
get a piece of stiff tubing about 1" long that will fit into the
hole and run the cord through that. Is there a better idea?

If you're good with hot melt glue, you can make strain relief for
plugs with that. As always, clean the parts and make sure they get
very hot.

That's beyond my skill level. ;-)

In article ,
Prof Wonmug wrote:

We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There are hundreds of different sizes and configurations of strain
reliefs, and you may or may not get lucky in finding one that matches
the original closely enough to be serviceable. Put a wire tie on the
wire to keep it from pulling through the hole and go back to watching TV.

On 2/8/2011 10:58 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 02:47:10 -0500, wrote:

On 2/8/2011 1:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?
There are commercially available strain reliefs which can be found on
the Internet, depending on the cord size, the cut-out hole size, and the
shape of the cut-out. See, as a single example:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2243855113
When I did a search, the results were all way too big, like these:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=2330976

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/str...ecatalog/N-8fq

http://www.drillspot.com/products/43...ight_Mesh_Grip

The opening in the housing is just barely larger than the cord and had
no fitting whatsoever right now. That's why I was thinking rubber
tubing that I could squeeze into the opening.
Then the rubber tubing sounds like the better solution. Your original
post / question did not make any reference to "barely larger", which is
why I originally offered the possibility of a commercial strain relief
or RTV.

On Feb 8, 1:25*am, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?


So rather than tell people this idea won't fit or that idea
won't work because you don't know how to work with
that kind of material -- why not post some pictures of
the appliance in question...

At least one showing the cord where it exits the outside
of the case and if you wanted SUPER advice, probably
one of the inside of that point of the machine as well
so that people can actually give you specific gizmos
you could use to solve your problem...

~~ Evan

On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 21:51:55 -0500, Smarty wrote:

On 2/8/2011 10:58 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 02:47:10 -0500, wrote:

On 2/8/2011 1:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?
There are commercially available strain reliefs which can be found on
the Internet, depending on the cord size, the cut-out hole size, and the
shape of the cut-out. See, as a single example:

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...gag=2243855113
When I did a search, the results were all way too big, like these:

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...px?SKU=2330976

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/str...ecatalog/N-8fq

http://www.drillspot.com/products/43...ight_Mesh_Grip

The opening in the housing is just barely larger than the cord and had
no fitting whatsoever right now. That's why I was thinking rubber
tubing that I could squeeze into the opening.
Then the rubber tubing sounds like the better solution. Your original
post / question did not make any reference to "barely larger", which is
why I originally offered the possibility of a commercial strain relief
or RTV.

Yeah, I know. I never know how much information to include. I suppose
I could have uploaded a photo and saved 1,000 words. ;-)

I just heard from Heyco that the strain relief bushings shipped today.
We'll see.

On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 18:49:40 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Prof Wonmug wrote:

We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There are hundreds of different sizes and configurations of strain
reliefs, and you may or may not get lucky in finding one that matches
the original closely enough to be serviceable. Put a wire tie on the
wire to keep it from pulling through the hole and go back to watching TV.

It's not that it pulls through the hole. I didn't make that clear. The
copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the bending back
and forth just beyond the housing.

I think I've found a solution from Heyco.com.

On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 19:41:59 -0800 (PST), Evan
wrote:

On Feb 8, 1:25*am, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?


So rather than tell people this idea won't fit or that idea
won't work because you don't know how to work with
that kind of material -- why not post some pictures of
the appliance in question...

At least one showing the cord where it exits the outside
of the case and if you wanted SUPER advice, probably
one of the inside of that point of the machine as well
so that people can actually give you specific gizmos
you could use to solve your problem...

Yup. I should have done that. I thought this was a simple question, so
I didn't bother. Also, the last time I posted a photo, I used a
photo-sharing site and a couple of people complained that the link
caused problems for their browser.

Anyway, I think I have a solution. Thanks.

So, one of these days. You should tell us some more
information about the wire shorting out. How did it short
out, aside from the case wearing through the insulation?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Prof Wonmug" wrote in message
...

It's not that it pulls through the hole. I didn't make that
clear. The
copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the
bending back
and forth just beyond the housing.

I think I've found a solution from Heyco.com.

On 2/8/2011 8:33 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD


I used to deal a lot with "Antique Electronics Supply" before they were
bought out and went wild with their prices. (about 20? years ago) I did
a search and this place looks very competitive with a great selection!

http://www.sundialwire.com/clothcoveredwire-1.aspx

On 2/8/2011 11:41 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 07:44:37 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

On 2/8/2011 12:25 AM, Prof Wonmug wrote:
We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

Smarty posted a link to something that was probably the original type
strain relief. The part snaps into a squared off hole that usually
rounded at the top and bottom. The flat lamp cord lays in it and the
retainer pushes the cable down into the housing which then snaps into
the hole. It's easily done with slip joint pliers. You may find the
strain reliefs in the parts drawers in the electrical aisle at Home
Depot or in plastic bags hanging with other small electrical parts
there.

I'm going to stop by The Borg later today and see what they have. The
opening is very tight. I don't think any of the metal or hard plastic
ones will work.

I tried a Bing search which turned up some nylon versions, which might
work if they come small enough:

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u..._pgnpt_p5.html

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?u...edbody_p8.html

They also look nicer.

Then I found these from Heyco, a company that specializes in wire
protection, which look to be exactly what I need:

http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-06-2b.html
http://www.heyco.com/products/sec_03/3-17a.html

Not finding a shopping cart, I called to inquire and was directed to
the Sample Request page, where I was able to request 2-3 samples. Very
cool.


Not pretty, but in a pinch I've wrapped a 2" section of cord with
electrical tape fat enough so it just fits through the hole, then put a
cable tie on each side to hold it in place. It's cheap and fast. And
yes someone will probably tell me it's dangerous or not code but it's a
hell of a lot better than what he has now.

On Feb 9, 1:21*am, Prof Wonmug wrote:
On Tue, 08 Feb 2011 18:49:40 -0800, Smitty Two

wrote:
In article ,
Prof Wonmug wrote:

We have a very old appliance that has an electrical cord with no
strain relief. The cord comes out of a square hole in the back. I have
replaced the original cord with one that it more heavy-duty, but it
still eventually shorts out. I'm going to go get a piece of stiff
tubing about 1" long that will fit into the hole and run the cord
through that. Is there a better idea?

There are hundreds of different sizes and configurations of strain
reliefs, and you may or may not get lucky in finding one that matches
the original closely enough to be serviceable. Put a wire tie on the
wire to keep it from pulling through the hole and go back to watching TV..

It's not that it pulls through the hole. I didn't make that clear. The
copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the bending back
and forth just beyond the housing.

I think I've found a solution from Heyco.com.

"The copper wire inside the code eventually breaks from the
bending back and forth just beyond the housing. "

I'll assume you meant inside the "cord" not "code".

Tells us how that causes a short. Broken wires usually cause an open.

I've also asked the same question. He says the wire shorts,
but says the case doesn't wear through the insullation.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


Tells us how that causes a short. Broken wires usually cause
an open.

On 2/9/2011 3:27 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/8/2011 8:33 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD


I used to deal a lot with "Antique Electronics Supply" before they were
bought out and went wild with their prices. (about 20? years ago) I did
a search and this place looks very competitive with a great selection!

http://www.sundialwire.com/clothcoveredwire-1.aspx

COOL! Thanks for that link. I made a new bookmark category "Electrical,
Vintage & Reproduction" There are lots of folks who have old items they
want repaired/restored who have the money to pay for it. :-)

I can't imagine the cost of wiring a theme restaurant or bar with knob
and tube wiring. It would be a very interesting undertaking(no pun). :-)

TDD

On 02/09/2011 09:25 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/9/2011 3:27 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/8/2011 8:33 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD


I used to deal a lot with "Antique Electronics Supply" before they were
bought out and went wild with their prices. (about 20? years ago) I did
a search and this place looks very competitive with a great selection!

http://www.sundialwire.com/clothcoveredwire-1.aspx

COOL! Thanks for that link. I made a new bookmark category "Electrical,
Vintage & Reproduction" There are lots of folks who have old items they
want repaired/restored who have the money to pay for it. :-)

I can't imagine the cost of wiring a theme restaurant or bar with knob
and tube wiring. It would be a very interesting undertaking(no pun). :-)

TDD

I don't think that it would pass inspection today.

but I have found while looking for other old stuff that the old
pushbutton light switches and switch plates are being reproduced... I
remember those from my grandparents' house and always thought they were
kind of cool.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 2/9/2011 8:29 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 02/09/2011 09:25 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/9/2011 3:27 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/8/2011 8:33 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD


I used to deal a lot with "Antique Electronics Supply" before they were
bought out and went wild with their prices. (about 20? years ago) I did
a search and this place looks very competitive with a great selection!

http://www.sundialwire.com/clothcoveredwire-1.aspx

COOL! Thanks for that link. I made a new bookmark category "Electrical,
Vintage & Reproduction" There are lots of folks who have old items they
want repaired/restored who have the money to pay for it. :-)

I can't imagine the cost of wiring a theme restaurant or bar with knob
and tube wiring. It would be a very interesting undertaking(no pun). :-)

TDD

I don't think that it would pass inspection today.

but I have found while looking for other old stuff that the old
pushbutton light switches and switch plates are being reproduced... I
remember those from my grandparents' house and always thought they were
kind of cool.

nate


You don't think a local country club with a membership that includes a
number of politicians couldn't get a waiver? Here's a link to vintage
style switches, plates and vintage look dimmers.

http://preview.tinyurl.com/49nzlja

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:

I can't imagine the cost of wiring a theme restaurant or bar with knob
and tube wiring. It would be a very interesting undertaking(no pun). :-)

TDD

Not obvious where knob & tube came from in this thread.

Knob & tube is, specifically, concealed wiring. Wouldn't be any point in
a theme restaurant if you can't see it. Could always install fake
wiring. There is a restaurant here with a fake elevated train complete
with sparks.

If it is in the open it is "open wiring on insulators". Use in the
current code is limited to "industrial and agricultural establishments".
Maybe if they serve agricultural products....

--
bud--

On 2/9/2011 9:25 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/9/2011 3:27 PM, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 2/8/2011 8:33 AM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 2/8/2011 7:25 AM, deadgoose wrote:
The early plugs were designed to be used with an "Underwriter's Knot"
for strain relief.

Here is a link to a pictu

http://www.robertacory.com/RobertaCo...es/Page412.htm

Handy to know...

/paul W3FIS

I've seen reproduction electrical items from a company that copies
old fixtures for interior decorating and the cost of the reproduction
cloth covered cords is outrageous. Of course, I would expect the new
reproduction wire to be superior to the old cloth and rubber but DANG!

TDD


I used to deal a lot with "Antique Electronics Supply" before they were
bought out and went wild with their prices. (about 20? years ago) I did
a search and this place looks very competitive with a great selection!

http://www.sundialwire.com/clothcoveredwire-1.aspx

COOL! Thanks for that link. I made a new bookmark category "Electrical,
Vintage & Reproduction" There are lots of folks who have old items they
want repaired/restored who have the money to pay for it. :-)

I needed some of the bright red cotton covered wire for inside a 1940's
juke box, but I couldn't find it then. Only part of the juke run,
(certain serial numbers) used that color (inside where no one can see)
so I had to use the gold like most of those jukes had. It seems it was
common to run out of a color wire and use something else. Stamped on a
lot of 60's pinball machine schematics was something like: "Due to wire
shortages wire colors on this schematic may or may not match actual wire
colors in machine." And they had a lot of colors, then with 1 or 2
different color strips also. That sucked when it came down to tracing
wires.

On 2/9/2011 4:58 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've also asked the same question. He says the wire shorts,
but says the case doesn't wear through the insullation.


The average person who knows nothing about electric seldom knows the
difference between a short and an open. You know the type, they ask
were along the wall is a "plug in" for their lamp.

On 2/10/2011 12:33 PM, bud-- wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:

I can't imagine the cost of wiring a theme restaurant or bar with knob
and tube wiring. It would be a very interesting undertaking(no pun). :-)

TDD

Not obvious where knob & tube came from in this thread.

Knob & tube is, specifically, concealed wiring. Wouldn't be any point in
a theme restaurant if you can't see it. Could always install fake
wiring. There is a restaurant here with a fake elevated train complete
with sparks.

If it is in the open it is "open wiring on insulators". Use in the
current code is limited to "industrial and agricultural establishments".
Maybe if they serve agricultural products....


You are obviously not that familiar with knob and tube wiring. The
earliest knob and tube wiring had parts that were exposed in areas
like wall switches. It would be exposed in basements, attics and
garages or anywhere the walls were not covered. I doubt most wiring
was concealed during the rural electrification project in the 1930's. :-)

TDD