This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Hi,
You can't regulate pressure to a specific number at all times.
Our house pressure is fluctuating from 50 to 70 psi or so depending on
what is going on in and around the house. Bathing, Laundry, sprinkler,
etc. We have a afjustable pressue regulator.

?
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?


Not a big difference. If they stated a particular setting, people would go
nuts trying to achieve 50 psi and complain if it dropped to 48 psi or went
up to 52 psi. Saves a lot of phone calls to the water department that way.

On 1/4/2011 10:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?


Every Watts water pressure regulator I've installed was factory set
to 50psi. I imagine water saving plumbing fixtures use 50psi as a
standard for calculating water flow. If you want a bit more water out
of your nanny state shower head, I suppose adjusting the water pressure
higher could help. :-)

TDD

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

On 1/4/2011 10:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 1/4/2011 10:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?


Every Watts water pressure regulator I've installed was factory set
to 50psi. I imagine water saving plumbing fixtures use 50psi as a
standard for calculating water flow. If you want a bit more water out
of your nanny state shower head, I suppose adjusting the water pressure
higher could help. :-)

TDD

or drilling out that little plastic washer in there..... whoops, did i
say that?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 1/4/2011 10:56 PM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/4/2011 10:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 1/4/2011 10:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?


Every Watts water pressure regulator I've installed was factory set
to 50psi. I imagine water saving plumbing fixtures use 50psi as a
standard for calculating water flow. If you want a bit more water out
of your nanny state shower head, I suppose adjusting the water pressure
higher could help. :-)

TDD

or drilling out that little plastic washer in there..... whoops, did i
say that?


When I've traveled, I have a shower head and tools in my luggage. Not
air travel mind you but road travel for service calls and installations.
I was usually able to change the shower head in a motel room to my pre-
drilled unfettered shower head without much trouble. I don't like
running around inside a shower trying to get wet from the little
sprinkle. :-)

TDD

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.

On Jan 5, 4:56*am, Steve Barker wrote:
On 1/4/2011 10:32 PM, The Daring Dufas wrote:





On 1/4/2011 10:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Every Watts water pressure regulator I've installed was factory set
to 50psi. I imagine water saving plumbing fixtures use 50psi as a
standard for calculating water flow. If you want a bit more water out
of your nanny state shower head, I suppose adjusting the water pressure
higher could help. :-)

TDD

or drilling out that little plastic washer in there..... * whoops, did i
say that?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That is flow restrictor. Does not effect static pressure.

On Jan 5, 4:01*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. *If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

If you have any pressure vessels in your house they will have a
pressure rating not to be exceeded, they may have their own pressure
reducing valve.
Very high pressured can cause water to splash in the sink when a
faucet is opened.
There are two basic PRV technologies, the cheaper ones are not that
accurate but in many situations this doesn't matter.

On Jan 4, 11:22*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
?"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...





This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. *If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Not a big difference. *If they stated a particular *setting, people would go
nuts trying to achieve 50 psi and complain if it dropped to 48 psi or went
up to 52 psi. *Saves a lot of phone calls to the water department that way.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I seriously doubt that all of the various websites that state a
"range" are concerned with limiting the phone calls to the water
authorities.

In other words, I don't think that that is the *reason* they use a
range instead of a hard number.

On Jan 4, 11:18*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. *If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Hi,
You can't regulate pressure to a specific number at all times.
Our house pressure is fluctuating from 50 to 70 psi or so depending on
what is going on in and around the house. Bathing, Laundry, sprinkler,
etc. We have a afjustable pressue regulator.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"You can't regulate pressure to a specific number at all times."

But I can regulate *static* pressure to a specific number, therefore
if a specific number were stated for the maximum recommended pressure
after the PRV, it would only go down from there when fixtures are in
use (dynamic pressure) except for the occasional rise when water
heater cycles, etc.

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K

On Jan 5, 11:32*am, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How can static pressure be immaterial if problems caused high static
pressure is the reason PRV's are recommended if the street pressure is
above 70 PSI?

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Jan 4, 11:22*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
?"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...





This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. *If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Not a big difference. *If they stated a particular *setting, people would
go
nuts trying to achieve 50 psi and complain if it dropped to 48 psi or went
up to 52 psi. *Saves a lot of phone calls to the water department that
way.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I seriously doubt that all of the various websites that state a
"range" are concerned with limiting the phone calls to the water
authorities.

In other words, I don't think that that is the *reason* they use a
range instead of a hard number.

I agree 100% with what Ed said, and had started to peck out a similar
response to your OP. Limiting actual phone calls, maybe not, but
certainly letting the customer know that + / - 20% or whatever is fine.
As he said, some people would get OCD on trying to keep it right on the
number.

On Jan 5, 12:26*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,





*DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 4, 11:22 pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
?"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

....

This is more of a discussion starter than a real "I need an answer"
question.

If you Google around, you'll find that many sites list "normal"
residential water pressure as a range, mostly 40 - 60 PSI.

For example, this is typical:

"Water pressure in the District typically ranges from 45 - 125 psi;
however, typical residential systems are designed to function best
under a pressure of 40 - 60 psi. If the water pressure entering your
home exceeds this level, you should install a pressure regulator in
the line to reduce the pressure to an acceptable range.

Why say reduce it to a "range"? Why not say "Adjust the PRV to reading
of 55 PSI" or "60 PSI".

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

Not a big difference. If they stated a particular setting, people would
go
nuts trying to achieve 50 psi and complain if it dropped to 48 psi or went
up to 52 psi. Saves a lot of phone calls to the water department that
way.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I seriously doubt that all of the various websites that state a
"range" are concerned with limiting the phone calls to the water
authorities.

In other words, I don't think that that is the *reason* they use a
range instead of a hard number.


I agree 100% with what Ed said, and had started to peck out a similar
response to your OP. Limiting actual phone calls, maybe not,

Well, then you don't agree *100%*, now do you? ;-)

but certainly letting the customer know that + / - 20% or whatever is fine..

Except that 60 is 50% higher than 40, so that's quite a difference.

As he said, some people would get OCD on trying to keep it right on the
number.

You mean like me? ;-)

I hope you have a couple barrels of water in the cellar. For
the day when the pump breaks, or the water tubing leaks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Robert Neville" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and
60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located
about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to
output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the
first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor
and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that
would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump
or installing a
second booster at the house.

Don't tell me. You also removed the tag from your matress,
under penalty of law?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

standard for calculating water flow. If you want a bit
more water out
of your nanny state shower head, I suppose adjusting the
water pressure
higher could help. :-)

TDD

or drilling out that little plastic washer in there.....
whoops, did i
say that?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You're a real American. Me, too, I seldom travel. But when I
do, a channelock and shower head are in my bag.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas"
wrote in message
...


or drilling out that little plastic washer in there.....
whoops, did i
say that?


When I've traveled, I have a shower head and tools in my
luggage. Not
air travel mind you but road travel for service calls and
installations.
I was usually able to change the shower head in a motel room
to my pre-
drilled unfettered shower head without much trouble. I don't
like
running around inside a shower trying to get wet from the
little
sprinkle. :-)

TDD

In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Except that 60 is 50% higher than 40, so that's quite a difference.

Pest. If the range is "40 to 60," then nominal is 50, and it's "50, +/-
20%."

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

I hope you have a couple barrels of water in the cellar. For
the day when the pump breaks, or the water tubing leaks.

60 psi is hardly stressing the plumbing. The booster pumps we use (Goulds
Aquaboost IIs) are rated to output up to 100 PSI as are the water system service
lines. And because we live in an area where power can go out for extended
periods of time, we do keep a 50 gallon gravity feed tank of emergency water in
the garage along with two 5 gallon jerry cans. Have used them more than once!

I hate low flow / low pressure showers and have been known to modify the
showerheads accordingly.

On Jan 5, 7:41*pm, Robert Neville wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I hope you have a couple barrels of water in the cellar. For
the day when the pump breaks, or the water tubing leaks.

60 psi is hardly stressing the plumbing.

Yep. Normal recommedned range for residential is low of 40psi to high
of 60. They figure anything above 60 is both not needed and does
stress fittings.

Where pressure regulators are required they will usually be set around
50. Well systems witll be set cut on/off 40/60 or 30/50. I am at
30/50 and find that some impulse sprinklers do not operate well at the
30psi end. Too lazy to adjust it.


The booster pumps we use (Goulds
Aquaboost IIs) are rated to output up to 100 PSI as are the water system service
lines. And because we live in an area where power can go out for extended
periods of time, we do keep a 50 gallon gravity feed tank of emergency water in
the garage along with two 5 gallon jerry cans. Have used them more than once!

Heh! Just went through most of a day with power outage. Very high
wind storm - even had gusts into hurricane range - started in the
evening. I _knew_ the power would go out sometime so I went around
and got out flashlights, candles, etc. Did I remember to draw some 5
gal buckets of water to at least flush toilets with? Nope. Had to
run to town the next morning to even have water to make coffee with
(wood stove).


Harry K


I hate low flow / low pressure showers and have been known to modify the
showerheads accordingly.

On Jan 5, 8:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jan 5, 11:32*am, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How can static pressure be immaterial if problems caused high static
pressure is the reason PRV's are recommended if the street pressure is
above 70 PSI?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I assumed (I know) that that would be read as "after" a PRV is set
up.

Harry K

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? To make
it clear. I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless in the operation of
a water system. It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. Static (30/50) was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K

On 1/5/2011 10:41 PM, Robert Neville wrote:
"Stormin wrote:

I hope you have a couple barrels of water in the cellar. For
the day when the pump breaks, or the water tubing leaks.

60 psi is hardly stressing the plumbing. The booster pumps we use (Goulds
Aquaboost IIs) are rated to output up to 100 PSI as are the water system service
lines. And because we live in an area where power can go out for extended
periods of time, we do keep a 50 gallon gravity feed tank of emergency water in
the garage along with two 5 gallon jerry cans. Have used them more than once!

I don't think Stormin Mormon meant you are stressing the system, just
that your system is complex, so it would be a good idea to have some
extra water on hand. That's how I read it anyway.

Thanks, Tony. That's what I meant. I wasn't quite organized
enough that moment, to clarify what I mumbled. You're both
kind, and correct. Glad you were able to fumpah flabble un
mumffunner.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony Miklos" wrote in message
...
On 1/5/2011 10:41 PM, Robert Neville wrote:
"Stormin
wrote:

I hope you have a couple barrels of water in the cellar.
For
the day when the pump breaks, or the water tubing leaks.

60 psi is hardly stressing the plumbing. The booster pumps
we use (Goulds
Aquaboost IIs) are rated to output up to 100 PSI as are
the water system service
lines. And because we live in an area where power can go
out for extended
periods of time, we do keep a 50 gallon gravity feed tank
of emergency water in
the garage along with two 5 gallon jerry cans. Have used
them more than once!

I don't think Stormin Mormon meant you are stressing the
system, just
that your system is complex, so it would be a good idea to
have some
extra water on hand. That's how I read it anyway.

Tony Miklos wrote:

I don't think Stormin Mormon meant you are stressing the system, just
that your system is complex, so it would be a good idea to have some
extra water on hand. That's how I read it anyway.

That's definitely true. I manage the water system for a 28 home mountain
subdivision. It consist of 8 wells, storeage tanks and booster pumps. Most of
the properties get a pretty good service, but we have a few that need some
tweaking. Every year we put a notice in the newsletter that reminds people they
need an emergency backup for water.

On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..

I havn't kept any good records, but the trailer park where I
live has the water off, at least a half dozen times a year.
Most recent was a couple days ago. I've got several jugs and
bottles of water for that reason.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Robert Neville" wrote in message
...

That's definitely true. I manage the water system for a 28
home mountain
subdivision. It consist of 8 wells, storeage tanks and
booster pumps. Most of
the properties get a pretty good service, but we have a few
that need some
tweaking. Every year we put a notice in the newsletter that
reminds people they
need an emergency backup for water.

On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

WTH is that mish mash supposed to mean?

Simple. Pump fills pressure tank no matter where it is. Pump shuts
off at cut-off pressure. That is the STATIC pressure. Open valve
and water flows with DYNAMIC pressure dropping. It does that whether
it is a pumped sytem or feeding from a reservoir. What the DYNAMIC
pressure is determines hwo well the system works.

You are talking to a peson who has fooled with and cussed these
systems for 60 years including being the unpaid maintenance man for
our community well. No longer, I had a well drilled here to get off
that community one because I wanted otu of the maintenance bit AND
WANTED A DYNAMIC PRESSURE tha would run a sprinkler.

You keep coming up with weird posts that really say nothing.

I repeat again: Static pressure is not the criteria for system
operation. It is a beginning point and that is all.

If you care to refute it go ahead but all you are doing is dancing
around it.
Harry K

On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K

On Jan 7, 4:56*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. *I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The pressure tank stops the pump from "hunting". It is in fact a
reservoir,
It is in fact the reason for this question. It is the cheap
alternative to the elevated reservoir
The pump starts when the pressure falls to (say) 40psi. And it stops
when the pressure rises to (say) 60 psi.
The alternative would be to have the pump constantly running. If no
water was flowing, this would lead to the water heating up, cavitation
and damage to the pump. Not to mention increased electricity costs.

Like many Yanks, I can see you have no concept of theory/science.

If I have a water system fed from a tank at the top of a hill 100'
high, the static pressure would be 43.36psi.

If I wanted any more pressure. I could add a pump. The pressure added
by the pump would be dynamic pressure.

If water was to be taken from the system, the pressure would fall due
to frictional losses in the pipework. Also measured in psi (or feet
head or bars,)
All this can be calculated out.

I can't make it any simpler than that for you. If you still can't
understand, you'll have to continue in your ignorance.

On Jan 8, 6:47*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 7, 4:56*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it..
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. *I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The pressure tank stops the pump from "hunting". It is in fact a
reservoir,
It is in fact the reason for this question. *It is the cheap
alternative to the elevated reservoir
The pump starts when the pressure falls to (say) 40psi. And it stops
when the pressure rises to (say) 60 psi.
The alternative would be to have the pump constantly running. If no
water was flowing, this would lead to the water heating up, cavitation
and damage to the pump. Not to mention increased electricity costs.

Like many Yanks, I can see you have no concept of theory/science.

If I have a water system fed from a tank at the top of a hill 100'
high, the static pressure would be 43.36psi.

No ****? Odd, that figure has been known for hundreds of years or
more. Did you just find it out?


If I wanted any more pressure. I could add a pump. The pressure added
by the pump would be dynamic pressure.

Well, no **** Dick Tracy. The Russians have a saying for such "Look,
he just discovered America" which is about a sarcastic as it can get.

If water was to be taken from the system, the pressure would fall due
to frictional losses in the pipework. Also measured in psi (or feet
head or bars,)
All this can be calculated out.

Which I pointed out in my first post. Which you somehow either missed
or decided to argue about.


I can't make it any simpler than that for you. If you still can't
understand, you'll have to continue in your ignorance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Since you just repeated what I have been saying since the beginning of
this idiotic diversion... Did I perhaps educate you to the point you
can regurgitate it? My whole point in this is that you keep saying
things that everyone already knows and adding zilch to the thread.

If there is any misunderstanding it is on your part. My posts were
clear to anyone older than 9.

I see you didn't address your error in saying that no electricity
results in instant no water.

Now if you can go back through the thread and quote _anything_ that
shows I don't understand what I am talking about feel free. I won't
hold my breath.

Harry K

On Jan 8, 6:37*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 8, 6:47*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 7, 4:56*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. *I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The pressure tank stops the pump from "hunting". It is in fact a
reservoir,
It is in fact the reason for this question. *It is the cheap
alternative to the elevated reservoir
The pump starts when the pressure falls to (say) 40psi. And it stops
when the pressure rises to (say) 60 psi.
The alternative would be to have the pump constantly running. If no
water was flowing, this would lead to the water heating up, cavitation
and damage to the pump. Not to mention increased electricity costs.

Like many Yanks, I can see you have no concept of theory/science.
If I have a water system fed from a tank at the top of a hill 100'
high, the static pressure would be 43.36psi.

No ****? *Odd, that figure has been known for hundreds of years or
more. *Did you just find it out?



If I wanted any more pressure. I could add a pump. The pressure added
by the pump would be dynamic pressure.

Well, no **** Dick Tracy. *The Russians have a saying for such "Look,
he just discovered America" which is about a sarcastic as it can get.

If water was to be taken from the system, the pressure would fall due
to frictional losses in the pipework. Also measured in psi (or feet
head or bars,)
All this can be calculated out.

Which I pointed out in my first post. *Which you somehow either missed
or decided to argue about.



I can't make it any simpler than that for you. If you still can't
understand, you'll have to continue in your ignorance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Since you just repeated what I have been saying since the beginning of
this idiotic diversion... *Did I perhaps educate you to the point you
can regurgitate it? *My whole point in this is that you keep saying
things that everyone already knows and adding zilch to the thread.

If there is any misunderstanding it is on your part. My posts were
clear to anyone older than 9.

I see you didn't address your error in saying that no electricity
results in instant no water.

Now if you can go back through the thread and quote _anything_ that
shows I don't understand what I am talking about feel free. *I won't
hold my breath.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Simple. Pump fills pressure tank no matter where it is. Pump shuts
off at cut-off pressure. That is the STATIC pressure. Open valve
and water flows with DYNAMIC pressure dropping. It does that whether
it is a pumped sytem or feeding from a reservoir. What the DYNAMIC
pressure is determines hwo well the system works".

It is not the static pressure. The pump is stopped or static, but
that's something else.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_s...tatic_pressure

On Jan 9, 1:27*am, harry wrote:
On Jan 8, 6:37*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Jan 8, 6:47*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 7, 4:56*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_.. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts..

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. *I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The pressure tank stops the pump from "hunting". It is in fact a
reservoir,
It is in fact the reason for this question. *It is the cheap
alternative to the elevated reservoir
The pump starts when the pressure falls to (say) 40psi. And it stops
when the pressure rises to (say) 60 psi.
The alternative would be to have the pump constantly running. If no
water was flowing, this would lead to the water heating up, cavitation
and damage to the pump. Not to mention increased electricity costs.

Like many Yanks, I can see you have no concept of theory/science.
If I have a water system fed from a tank at the top of a hill 100'
high, the static pressure would be 43.36psi.

No ****? *Odd, that figure has been known for hundreds of years or
more. *Did you just find it out?

If I wanted any more pressure. I could add a pump. The pressure added
by the pump would be dynamic pressure.

Well, no **** Dick Tracy. *The Russians have a saying for such "Look,
he just discovered America" which is about a sarcastic as it can get.

If water was to be taken from the system, the pressure would fall due
to frictional losses in the pipework. Also measured in psi (or feet
head or bars,)
All this can be calculated out.

Which I pointed out in my first post. *Which you somehow either missed
or decided to argue about.

I can't make it any simpler than that for you. If you still can't
understand, you'll have to continue in your ignorance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Since you just repeated what I have been saying since the beginning of
this idiotic diversion... *Did I perhaps educate you to the point you
can regurgitate it? *My whole point in this is that you keep saying
things that everyone already knows and adding zilch to the thread.

If there is any misunderstanding it is on your part. My posts were
clear to anyone older than 9.

I see you didn't address your error in saying that no electricity
results in instant no water.

Now if you can go back through the thread and quote _anything_ that
shows I don't understand what I am talking about feel free. *I won't
hold my breath.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Simple. *Pump fills pressure tank no matter where it is. *Pump shuts
off at cut-off pressure. *That is the STATIC pressure. * Open valve
and water flows with DYNAMIC pressure dropping. *It does that whether
it is a pumped sytem or feeding from a reservoir. *What the DYNAMIC
pressure is determines hwo well the system works".

It is not the static pressure. The pump is stopped or static, but
that's something else.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_s...atic_pressure- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So the pumps shuts off at say 50psi. Gauge on system with no flow
says 50 psi. That is the static pressure. I read, rather scanned,
the article. Nice PhD dissertation...has very little practical
application in plumbing systems. Now if you can explain how the 50psi
on the gueage with no flow is _not_ the static, hydyrostatic or
whatever pressure, have at it.

You still haven't explained your "no electricity means intant no
water" - it doesn't if there is a pressure tank in the system.

Harry K

On Jan 9, 8:50*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Jan 9, 1:27*am, harry wrote:





On Jan 8, 6:37*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 8, 6:47*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 7, 4:56*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 7, 12:30*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 6, 4:47*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 6, 12:57*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:32*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 5, 12:17*am, harry wrote:

On Jan 5, 4:52*am, Harry K wrote:

On Jan 4, 8:17*pm, Robert Neville wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is there really no noticeable difference between 40 PSI and 60 PSI?

There is for me. We're on a well with a storage tank located about 250' away and
100' below the house grade. A 5 stage booster pump set to output 65 psi at the
tank level results in about 40 psi at the entrance to the first floor of the
house, less after distribution throughout the first floor and even less on the
second floor.

Would love to have 60psi at the house entrance, but that would involve replacing
the booster pump with a very expensive 8 stage booster pump or installing a
second booster at the house.

Something does not compute. *Psi of 65 should only be 22 psi at 100'
rise...some less than that after the loss through 250' of pipe.

Harry K

0.4336 psi in a foot head as I remember. We are on "bars" now in
Europe.
Frictional pipe losses depend on flow on any particular system.
No flow=no loss.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And no flow=no water being used so your point is? *Static pressure is
pretty immaterial in a water system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Static pressure is that due to the hieght of the reservoir above your
house. It runs the whole system. *Pressure drop is due to the
frictional losses in the pipework due to water flowing through it.
The point is that a restrictor creates a pressure drop that depends on
the volume of water going through it.
It is an additional frictional loss, not a pressure reducer per se.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

??? Do you have a point that is unknown to everyone already? *To make
it clear. *I know what a PRV vavle is and what it does.

BTW the PRV does reduce pressure even at static. *Case in point was my
town down in a canyon. *They built a new reservoir up on the rim.
Blew fittings all over town _even when no water was being used_. *Also
my mothers house when I installed the PRV there. *Reduced pressure to
55 psi _static_.

I repeat - static pressure is pretty meaningless *in the operation of
a water system. *It is what it does _dynamically_ that counts.

My original system here was from a commuity well over a 1/4 mile
away. *Static (30/50) *was just fine, dynamic wouldn't run an impulse
sprinkler.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you need to go an read a few books. You are in cloud cuckoo
land and in need of education.
If your system was from a well, there would be
*(a) Elevated storage tanks filled by pumps down/adjacent to the
wells. Giving static pressure. I assume water runs downhill even in
America. Or maybe you don't know this.
Or
(b) A pumped pressure system. Less likely as no electricity instantly
means no water..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

BTW no power on a pumped system does _not_ mean mean instantly no
water. *I suggest you discover what the pressure tank is for.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The pressure tank stops the pump from "hunting". It is in fact a
reservoir,
It is in fact the reason for this question. *It is the cheap
alternative to the elevated reservoir
The pump starts when the pressure falls to (say) 40psi. And it stops
when the pressure rises to (say) 60 psi.
The alternative would be to have the pump constantly running. If no
water was flowing, this would lead to the water heating up, cavitation
and damage to the pump. Not to mention increased electricity costs.

Like many Yanks, I can see you have no concept of theory/science.
If I have a water system fed from a tank at the top of a hill 100'
high, the static pressure would be 43.36psi.

No ****? *Odd, that figure has been known for hundreds of years or
more. *Did you just find it out?

If I wanted any more pressure. I could add a pump. The pressure added
by the pump would be dynamic pressure.

Well, no **** Dick Tracy. *The Russians have a saying for such "Look,
he just discovered America" which is about a sarcastic as it can get.

If water was to be taken from the system, the pressure would fall due
to frictional losses in the pipework. Also measured in psi (or feet
head or bars,)
All this can be calculated out.

Which I pointed out in my first post. *Which you somehow either missed
or decided to argue about.

I can't make it any simpler than that for you. If you still can't
understand, you'll have to continue in your ignorance.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Since you just repeated what I have been saying since the beginning of
this idiotic diversion... *Did I perhaps educate you to the point you
can regurgitate it? *My whole point in this is that you keep saying
things that everyone already knows and adding zilch to the thread.

If there is any misunderstanding it is on your part. My posts were
clear to anyone older than 9.

I see you didn't address your error in saying that no electricity
results in instant no water.

Now if you can go back through the thread and quote _anything_ that
shows I don't understand what I am talking about feel free. *I won't
hold my breath.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Simple. *Pump fills pressure tank no matter where it is. *Pump shuts
off at cut-off pressure. *That is the STATIC pressure. * Open valve
and water flows with DYNAMIC pressure dropping. *It does that whether
it is a pumped sytem or feeding from a reservoir. *What the DYNAMIC
pressure is determines hwo well the system works".

It is not the static pressure. The pump is stopped or static, but
that's something else.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_s..._pressure-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So the pumps shuts off at say 50psi. *Gauge on system with no flow
says 50 psi. *That is the static pressure. *I read, rather scanned,
the article. *Nice PhD dissertation...has very little practical
application in plumbing systems. *Now if you can explain how the 50psi
on the gueage with no flow is _not_ the static, hydyrostatic or
whatever pressure, have at it.

You still haven't explained your "no electricity means intant no
water" - it doesn't if there is a pressure tank in the system.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Static pressure is due purely to gravitation. Didn't you look at my
link?
We are not talking rocket science here.

The pressure tank has virtually no capacity, it's just there to stop
the pumps going on and off frequently. Water is incompressible for
practical purposes, you do know that don't you?