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#1
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T-111 siding question
I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s
with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim |
#2
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T-111 siding question
On Dec 19, 10:46*am, "Jim T" wrote:
I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim Probably not a good idea, you might wind up with multiple vapor barriers. Plus how would you accommodate the added wall thickness at the windows, doors, roof & corners of the house? methinks it is not typically done this way because the results are not great. cheers Bob |
#3
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T-111 siding question
On 12/19/2010 12:51 PM, DD_BobK wrote:
On Dec 19, 10:46 am, "Jim wrote: I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim Probably not a good idea, you might wind up with multiple vapor barriers. Plus how would you accommodate the added wall thickness at the windows, doors, roof& corners of the house? methinks it is not typically done this way because the results are not great. cheers Bob I think your vapor barrier response is a good point and probably why I won't do it. Aesthetically there wouldn't be a problem. The eave of the roof box completely covers the top of the trim sufficiently to cover the top of the siding Jim |
#4
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T-111 siding question
"Jim T" wrote in message net... I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim Follow up. A neighbor of mine is some type of building contractor. I'll ask him. He did a stucco covering on his siding. I'll ask how he prepared his siding for the stucco? Anyone done this sort of thing? Stucco for T-111? (or over T-111?) Jim |
#5
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T-111 siding question
"dadiOH" wrote in message ... Jim T wrote: "Jim T" wrote in message net... I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim Follow up. A neighbor of mine is some type of building contractor. I'll ask him. He did a stucco covering on his siding. I'll ask how he prepared his siding for the stucco? Anyone done this sort of thing? Stucco for T-111? (or over T-111?) 1. Nail on metal lath (looks like honey comb) 2. Apply stucco snip Sounds easy :-) I'd be worried about the stucco leatching mostiure into the T-111. Use some sort of moisture barrier? Paint? Remove T-111 and replace with hardie board? (That doesn't sound easy or cheap) Jim |
#6
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T-111 siding question
On Dec 19, 2:36*pm, "Jim T" wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message ... Jim T wrote: "Jim T" wrote in message stnet... I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim Follow up. A neighbor of mine is some type of building contractor. I'll ask him. He did a stucco covering on his siding. I'll ask how he prepared his siding for the stucco? Anyone done this sort of thing? Stucco for T-111? (or over T-111?) 1. Nail on metal lath (looks like honey comb) 2. Apply stucco snip Sounds easy :-) I'd be worried about the stucco leatching mostiure into the T-111. Use some sort of moisture barrier? Paint? Remove T-111 and replace with hardie board? (That doesn't sound easy or cheap) Jim- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - people around here add a layer of hard foam insulation, then cover with vinyl siding, but must re frame around windows, often they replace these windows at the same time.. heat bills down appearance much improved |
#8
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T-111 siding question
Here's a pic of my shop remodel.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733385477/ Cut the T111 at a 30° angle and apply a 1-1/2" drip edge along the new seam. Once you cut the rotten parts off, apply a metal barrier (onto the studs) that extend a bit below where the new T111 will be placed. The bottom edge of the replacement T111 should be beveled also, so that moisture doesn't wick back toward the framing. Prime with oil base primer, not water based, and prime the back side of the replacement T111, at least 6" to 10" up (roller width = 9"). Prime and paint the beveled edges, too, before installation. Screw the replacement T111 in place..... it will be easier to remove, if it ever needs to be removed. My home garage has T111, installed as on the shop. It has remained in good shape for 20 yrs. Sonny |
#9
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T-111 siding question
On Sun, 19 Dec 2010 12:46:10 -0600, "Jim T" wrote:
I've got the typical tract house out here in Central TX. Built in the '80s with T-111 siding. The bottom on T-111 tends to rot where it contacts the bottom moisture. I bought the house 6 years ago with some pretty bad spots so I cut the offending T-111 off and replaced it. The rest looks fine. I wonder how many people replace all the siding when only about 6" is actually bad? Probably lots, but I woudlnt' do it. For me, cutting off 6" would be an excuse to buy new tools. That's not the question. I want to re-do the siding on at least one side of my house to make it better sound and weather insulated. The question is: What about weather resistant sheet insulation and new T-111 siding and going over the existing siding (assuming I weather sealed it of course) and putting on new trim? Anyone ever done this? Why take the old siding/insulation out/ Why not just add to what is there and just putting on another layer? Jim I hate stucco. (not the stucco company that echos this ng, but stucco in general.) But that's personal taste. I have no objection to it otherwise. |
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