Hello:

Saw a house we might be interested in purchasing, and was told
that it has T1-11 siding. These are vertical board siding, and understand
that it is a "type" of plywood siding. True ?

Anyway, it looks as if several are damaged due to water seepage
at the board ends, and will need replacement.

Is T1-11 still made and available ?
By who ?

Are there different types and grades ?

Might someone please tell me something more about
this type of siding ? Good, pros and cons, etc. ?

Much thanks,
Bob

In article , Robert11 wrote:
Hello:

Saw a house we might be interested in purchasing, and was told
that it has T1-11 siding. These are vertical board siding, and understand
that it is a "type" of plywood siding. True ?

Anyway, it looks as if several are damaged due to water seepage
at the board ends, and will need replacement.

Is T1-11 still made and available ?
By who ?

Are there different types and grades ?

Might someone please tell me something more about
this type of siding ? Good, pros and cons, etc. ?

Do a google search for T1-11 Siding. Here's one answer:

http://www.acutabovesiding.com/faq.htm#1
http://www.acutabovesiding.com/siding-issues.htm#alert

Sounds like crap that you don't want to get involved with.

--
"De inimico non loquaris sed cogites."

T1-11 siding has been around for years and years. It is just a piece of
exterior plywood dressed up to look good. It is used a lot in spec houses
because it very cost effective. It is cheap to buy and cheap to install.
The material itself is very durable. It is nothing more than exterior
plywood. You should be able to find something to closely match it at any
good lumber yard.


"Robert11" wrote in message
...
Hello:

Saw a house we might be interested in purchasing, and was told
that it has T1-11 siding. These are vertical board siding, and understand
that it is a "type" of plywood siding. True ?

Anyway, it looks as if several are damaged due to water seepage
at the board ends, and will need replacement.

Is T1-11 still made and available ?
By who ?

Are there different types and grades ?

Might someone please tell me something more about
this type of siding ? Good, pros and cons, etc. ?

Much thanks,
Bob

"Ed Clarke" wrote in message
Might someone please tell me something more about
this type of siding ? Good, pros and cons, etc. ?

Do a google search for T1-11 Siding. Here's one answer:

http://www.acutabovesiding.com/faq.htm#1
http://www.acutabovesiding.com/siding-issues.htm#alert

Sounds like crap that you don't want to get involved with.

My garage was built in 1978 and is sided with T1-11. It has been painted a
few times but still looks as good as new. I'm going to add a shed on the
back and use it there because it hold up so well with minimal care.
Improperly installed and not maintained, ANY wood or composite siding can go
bad. In the case of the OP, it can be removed and replaced.

T1-11 is basically exterior grade plywood. If you can keep the water out of it
you should be fine forever. Keep a good coat of paint on the surface and be
sure the seams are sealed so water can't wick up into the edges.
Don't get it down to grade and use "Z" flashing on horizontal seams

On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 16:06:21 -0500, "Robert11"
wrote:

Saw a house we might be interested in purchasing, and was told
that it has T1-11 siding. These are vertical board siding, and understand
that it is a "type" of plywood siding. True ?

It *is* plywood siding.

Anyway, it looks as if several are damaged due to water seepage
at the board ends, and will need replacement.

Is T1-11 still made and available ?

Yes.

By who ?

Now by several manufacturers, but your local lumber supplier will have
it.

Are there different types and grades ?

Different styles, and now there's pressure treated as well.

Might someone please tell me something more about
this type of siding ? Good, pros and cons, etc. ?

It's plywood. With all the pros and cons of plywood. Keep in painted
and sealed, and keep it away from termites. It also makes an okay
base for installing concrete lap siding or vinyl siding if you prefer
that look. Even a base for stucco.

Jeff

It also makes an okay
base for installing concrete lap siding or vinyl siding if you prefer
that look. Even a base for stucco.

Jeff

Good point. I have sided (with both vinyl and cedar beveled) over T-111
sided homes. It is a great base for siding. Just cover with tyvex and go at
it.

Just a few points I didn't notice from others.

T-111 stands for Texture 111 which is what it was called when
it was first made.

It is 5/8" exterior grade plywood which is commonly made out
of southern yellow pine (less expensive) or Douglas fir. It has
vertical grooves spaced 8" (I think) and the ends are lapped.

It was originally designed to replace the sheathing on a
house. The idea was that it could be nicely stained and would look
decent for a couple of years until the owner put real siding over it.

In our part of the country (northern NH), it was introduced in
the early 70's. Some folks have left it exposed for 30 years and so
long as it's kept painted or stained it seems to hold up ok.

FWIW,
--

Larry
Email to rapp at lmr dot com

Is is always necessary to replace the a section of t1-11 if just the
bottom gets wet?

Is there a way to splice a section in?

"biscuit" wrote in message
...
Is is always necessary to replace the a section of t1-11 if just the
bottom gets wet?

Is there a way to splice a section in?

Last year a carpenter cut off the bottom 2" of my siding and put in a
plastic product. I don't recommend that approach. It was expensive and has
started to pull out.

lid (biscuit) wrote in news:12hoqcjncnkqhb0
@news.supernews.com:

Is is always necessary to replace the a section of t1-11 if just the
bottom gets wet?

Is there a way to splice a section in?



You can cut off like the bottom foot of it. Seal that cut off end with
primer. Then, where the foot was cut off put Hardi Plank. Careful not to
cut off a foot and you can only get say 7" Hardi Plank! Where the joint
between the new and old is put a 1x4. Prime the 1x4 on all surfaces after
cutting and fitting then install with galvanized nails. Use a good
Permanently Flexible" caulk where the new trim board meets the upper
siding. Caulk the bottom of the new trim board to Hardi Plank to keep
bugs and moisture out.

There are many homes where I am that have done this. It looks fine if a
nice job is done.

If you want to do a bang up job on the trim board, bevel the edge so
water can't sit there.

Endview of 1x4
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Al Bundy wrote:
lid (biscuit) wrote in news:12hoqcjncnkqhb0
@news.supernews.com:


Is is always necessary to replace the a section of t1-11 if just the
bottom gets wet?

Is there a way to splice a section in?




You can cut off like the bottom foot of it. Seal that cut off end with
primer. Then, where the foot was cut off put Hardi Plank. Careful not to
cut off a foot and you can only get say 7" Hardi Plank! Where the joint
between the new and old is put a 1x4. Prime the 1x4 on all surfaces after
cutting and fitting then install with galvanized nails. Use a good
Permanently Flexible" caulk where the new trim board meets the upper
siding. Caulk the bottom of the new trim board to Hardi Plank to keep
bugs and moisture out.

There are many homes where I am that have done this. It looks fine if a
nice job is done.

If you want to do a bang up job on the trim board, bevel the edge so
water can't sit there.

Endview of 1x4
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you should use flashing, they make such for t111 or for windows etc

yourname wrote in news:XxeTg.27$fI1.17@trndny04:

Al Bundy wrote:
lid (biscuit) wrote in news:12hoqcjncnkqhb0
@news.supernews.com:


Is is always necessary to replace the a section of t1-11 if just the
bottom gets wet?

Is there a way to splice a section in?




You can cut off like the bottom foot of it. Seal that cut off end
with primer. Then, where the foot was cut off put Hardi Plank.
Careful not to cut off a foot and you can only get say 7" Hardi
Plank! Where the joint between the new and old is put a 1x4. Prime
the 1x4 on all surfaces after cutting and fitting then install with
galvanized nails. Use a good Permanently Flexible" caulk where the
new trim board meets the upper siding. Caulk the bottom of the new
trim board to Hardi Plank to keep bugs and moisture out.

There are many homes where I am that have done this. It looks fine if
a nice job is done.

If you want to do a bang up job on the trim board, bevel the edge so
water can't sit there.

Endview of 1x4
|~\
| \
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|---|
you should use flashing, they make such for t111 or for windows etc


I've heard of it and seen it but never used it since anything I ever did
was a only at the bottom with rot/moisture problems. I believe it's
called Z-flashing for horizontal joints.

Not sure how it would work joining t1-111 with another material, Hardi
Plank. I suggested Hardi Plank since it will not rot. If you replace the
T1-111 with more, the original moisture problem will work at it as well.

I think the common t1-111 rot near the ground is generally because when
it is put up the ends are not primed and painted. And when house
repainting happens, those ends are surely almost never painted.

The method I posted seems to work OK with normal home care of painting
and caulking/recaulking (not Walmart Mainstays 80% water caulk). Doesn't
look bad either:

http://makeashorterlink.com/?E352168DD

-or-

http://www.konicaminoltaonline.com/k...ew.ScreenHome?