I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

Jeff

On Oct 2, 4:29*pm, Jeff Thies wrote:
I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

* What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

* *On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

You could laminate two or three strips of 1/4" ply on the inside back
(or outside back if you want the strips not to show from inside), or
you could use french cleats (either store bought aluminum hardware, or
a 1x4 ripped on a 45 down the middle).

The shelf support holes can go all of the way through as long as the
center support allows both support pins to be fully inserted.

I wouldn't skimp on buying a sheet of 3/4" if that is what you need.

R

On Oct 2, 3:29*pm, Jeff Thies wrote:
I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

* What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

* *On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

* *Jeff

WHy not use 1/2" ?

On 10/2/2010 7:32 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 2, 4:29 pm, Jeff wrote:
I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

You could laminate two or three strips of 1/4" ply on the inside back
(or outside back if you want the strips not to show from inside), or
you could use french cleats (either store bought aluminum hardware, or
a 1x4 ripped on a 45 down the middle).

Ah, I've used french cleats as a cheap way to hang pictures, had no
idea it was called that. I like it!

The shelf support holes can go all of the way through as long as the
center support allows both support pins to be fully inserted.

I wouldn't skimp on buying a sheet of 3/4" if that is what you need.

Hard to put a sheet of plywood in the back of my car. Even harder to
find good plywood. I do have some leftover 1/2", I'll mount the french
cleat on that...

Jeff

R

On 10/3/2010 12:43 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 10/2/2010 7:32 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 2, 4:29 pm, Jeff wrote:
I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

You could laminate two or three strips of 1/4" ply on the inside back
(or outside back if you want the strips not to show from inside), or
you could use french cleats (either store bought aluminum hardware, or
a 1x4 ripped on a 45 down the middle).

Ah, I've used french cleats as a cheap way to hang pictures, had no idea
it was called that. I like it!

The shelf support holes can go all of the way through as long as the
center support allows both support pins to be fully inserted.

I wouldn't skimp on buying a sheet of 3/4" if that is what you need.

Hard to put a sheet of plywood in the back of my car. Even harder to
find good plywood. I do have some leftover 1/2", I'll mount the french
cleat on that...

Jeff

R

Local ma'n'pa yards can still deliver small lots, especially if you can
wait a few days till the truck is on your side of town. Do any of the
Borgs in your town have the 75-minute truck rentals?

If you are into woodworking, you need a vehicle with a tail gate. But
pretty much any car can haul 1-2 sheets of plywood on top. If you don't
have clamp-on roof racks, but do have rain gutters, I'd buy a set. I've
even hauled stuff on slick-top cars using just padding (like pool
noodles and old blankets), and lots of rope. I wouldn't go on the
highway with a setup like that, but local surface streets are no problem.

--
aem sends...

On 10/3/2010 1:00 AM, aemeijers wrote:
On 10/3/2010 12:43 AM, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 10/2/2010 7:32 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 2, 4:29 pm, Jeff wrote:
I've been working on my '29 kitchen...

I'm building some euro cabinets out of maple plywood.

How are these usually attached? I'm trying to decide to make the back
out of 1/4" or 3/4" which is in short supply?

What I had was metal cabinets screwed on a 1x4, so that is no clue!

On another note, I'll be using "shelf pegs" to hold the shelves.
Since I have a divider in the box, with shelves on each side, I could
drill the peg holes all the way through. Is there a reason not to? Or I
could offset them horizontally.

You could laminate two or three strips of 1/4" ply on the inside back
(or outside back if you want the strips not to show from inside), or
you could use french cleats (either store bought aluminum hardware, or
a 1x4 ripped on a 45 down the middle).

Ah, I've used french cleats as a cheap way to hang pictures, had no idea
it was called that. I like it!

The shelf support holes can go all of the way through as long as the
center support allows both support pins to be fully inserted.

I wouldn't skimp on buying a sheet of 3/4" if that is what you need.

Hard to put a sheet of plywood in the back of my car. Even harder to
find good plywood. I do have some leftover 1/2", I'll mount the french
cleat on that...

Jeff

R

Local ma'n'pa yards can still deliver small lots, especially if you can
wait a few days till the truck is on your side of town.

I get a little depressed just thinking of this. I had a great yard
just down the street. The nearest "small" yard is some distance away,
the borgs carry junk. No such thing as AC... I have some 3/8 3 ply
plywood here, the best I could get. If I ever need to make a cylinder it
is perfect. The little "good" stuff is often only sold in half sheets or
less. Go figure.


Do any of the
Borgs in your town have the 75-minute truck rentals?

If you are into woodworking, you need a vehicle with a tail gate. But
pretty much any car can haul 1-2 sheets of plywood on top. If you don't
have clamp-on roof racks, but do have rain gutters, I'd buy a set. I've
even hauled stuff on slick-top cars using just padding (like pool
noodles and old blankets), and lots of rope. I wouldn't go on the
highway with a setup like that, but local surface streets are no problem.

I'm thinking of a trailer, either 4x6 or 5x8. I've been trying to
replace the '88 New Yorker first to tow it. Hadn't thought about a roof
rack...

Jeff