"simon beer" wrote in message
...
Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the
past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks

--

take off your trousers to e-mail me



I had just this problem and didn't trust the 10mm plasterboard, but I found
that I couldn't use expanding toggle-type wall plugs anyway as the
plasterboard was held up by dot-and-dab, and there wasn't enough space
behind the plasterboard for the expanding toggle-thingies to be inserted.
Faced with this problem, I hacked out 3" x 3" holes in the plasterboard
where the fixings needed to go, and inserted wooden blocks of an appropriate
thickness in the holes. I then fixed these to the wall by rawlplugs and the
units to the wall through the wooden blocks too.

Sometime later, I cornered my rother who was arund when the kitchen was
installed and asked him how the other units were held up. He said that as
far as he knew they were secured only to the plasterboard, so in this case
it seems to have been strong enough. I did read in another thread that if
you have dot-and-dab then if a lump of it happens to be in the right place
then drill through that, the plasterboard will be strengthened in that area.
Use you knuckles and ears to find where the dabs are!

Andy.

Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks

--

take off your trousers to e-mail me

"simon beer" wrote in message
...
Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards

No


or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use.

n/a

On 18 Nov 2004, simon beer wrote

Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only
appropriate to find the studs and fix to these. Any
recommendations on the best heavy duty PBoard plugs to use. Only
ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the past so bit nervous
about putting a couple up for someone else. many thanks

I'm sure I hung some of the supplied brackets for my sister-in-law with
hollow wall plugs, on the assumption that most of the force was
downwards rather than outwards. I seem to recall using the largest-
gauge round-headed screws that would fit through the bracket holes.

It's a few years ago -- so I'm not positive about this -- but I may
have added a batten underneath in case anything slipped.

Last time I looked, nothing's shifted at all.

--
Cheers,
Harvey

er, not recommended.
Best to hack off the plasterboard which will be behind the units, and fit 2
x 2 , or larger, noggins between the timbers. Use a utility knife and cut
square - makes it easy to make good with a new piece of plasterboard, and
won't need plastering etc. as hidden by the units - except perhaps at the
ends.
Alternatively, you could use a batten secured at the correct height, but
this might cause the units to not seat properly against the wall.


--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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"simon beer" wrote in message
...
Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the
past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks

--

take off your trousers to e-mail me

"simon beer" wrote in message
...
Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the
past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks


In my last house's kitchen refit. The joiner who was doing the job secured a
horizontal batten to the plasterboard wall screwed through to the stud work.
He then notched out the top rear of the wall units, so that they fitted over
the batten and snugly to the wall. They were then simply screwed in place
onto the batten. As the backboard in the cupboards in not right at the back
the batten was out of sight.

He also had not need to use those adjustable brackets which the cupboards
came with and the job was done pretty quickly and was very secure.

Ash

Ash wrote:

"simon beer" wrote in message
...

Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the
past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks



In my last house's kitchen refit. The joiner who was doing the job secured a
horizontal batten to the plasterboard wall screwed through to the stud work.
He then notched out the top rear of the wall units, so that they fitted over
the batten and snugly to the wall. They were then simply screwed in place
onto the batten. As the backboard in the cupboards in not right at the back
the batten was out of sight.

He also had not need to use those adjustable brackets which the cupboards
came with and the job was done pretty quickly and was very secure.

This is pretty nuch what I ended up doing at the unit tops anyway - thin
batten that fits betwen the unit rear and the wall, screwed to studs.

I uses platsrboard atrtachments and bits of car body filler to hld teh
bases from flapping, screwed through some spacers made of batten.

The tiles bertween the worktop and cupboards act as support anway
ultimately.


In my bathroom, I had a similar problem bulding a vanity unit and bath
surround. I superglued a batten to the (bare plaster) wall. I could
stand on it.

I also used epoxy and car body filler to attach battens to an acrylic
bath to fix a custom made bath panel. Its absolutely perfect.

The range and quality of adhesives available today should not be
overlooked: a glued joint that spreads loads to a wide erea of
plasterboard is extremely sound, if you use the right glue, and there
isn't e.g. a peelable paint surface in between.

Glues I have used recently are

5 minute epoxy (fast, but not as tring or as flexible as..
1 hour epoxy - but its a pain to wait for it to fully cure - several
days sometimes.
- car body filler. Cheap for gapfilling joints, and the muckite sticks
to almost everythig well
- superglue- fast, and works extremely well on bare plaster, since it
likes alkali and damp to go off, but has almost no gapfilling potential.
- mirror glue, whih is a solvent adhesive like /no more nails etc, and
ends up hard rubbery.

Even silicone sealer is useful for glueing bog pans to tiles, and
acrylic decorators caulk is a fair cheap mans no more nails if used
correctly.








Ash

Will plasterboard take kitchen wall cupboards or is it only appropriate
to
find the studs and fix to these. Any recommendations on the best heavy
duty
PBoard plugs to use. Only ever fixed them to solid walls myself in the
past
so bit nervous about putting a couple up for someone else.
many thanks


I had just this problem and didn't trust the 10mm plasterboard, but I
found
that I couldn't use expanding toggle-type wall plugs anyway as the
plasterboard was held up by dot-and-dab, and there wasn't enough space
behind the plasterboard for the expanding toggle-thingies to be inserted.
Faced with this problem, I hacked out 3" x 3" holes in the plasterboard
where the fixings needed to go, and inserted wooden blocks of an
appropriate
thickness in the holes. I then fixed these to the wall by rawlplugs and
the
units to the wall through the wooden blocks too.


gonna have to do this myself on dot and dabbed plasterboard walls in the
next week or two. I was thinking of drilling through into the brick behind
the plasterboard and using loooong screws (oush the plug into the hole with
the screw) so there would be no horizontal force on the board (and in fact
the brackets screwed to the brick would be gripping pressing the board
towards the wall). Any reason not to do it this way? (the units have
adjustable brackets which hook onto metal plate brackets on the wall)

cheers

dave