.... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it didn't
run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass. Next, I
replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and hosed the dude
down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent), so any
helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was worth it.

In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
.... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it didn't
run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass. Next, I
replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and hosed the dude
down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

This is significant. It indicates that the ratio of air to fuel in the mix is
too high; this can be caused by too much air, or too little fuel.

One possibility is that there's a major air leak somewhe at anything less
than full choke, there's too much air in the mixture to support combustion.

The very first thing I'd check is the bolts or screws that hold the carburetor
to the engine; I'll bet they're loose.

If that's not the case, then there's probably a small bit of gunk lodged in
a passage in the carburetor, or in the jet, and the next thing to do is to
remove and dismantle the carburetor, and do what you should have done the
first time you had it apart: blow everything clean with compressed air.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent), so any
helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was worth it.

Heck, yes. I'd have done the same thing.

On Sep 26, 2:05*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it didn't
run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass. Next, I
replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and hosed the dude
down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent), so any
helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was worth it..

Sounds like blocked jet(s) in the carb. Or blocked fuel filter.
Often on or in the fuel tank.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "HeyBub"
wrote:
.... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said
it didn't run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass.
Next, I replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and
hosed the dude down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

This is significant. It indicates that the ratio of air to fuel in
the mix is
too high; this can be caused by too much air, or too little fuel.

One possibility is that there's a major air leak somewhe at
anything less
than full choke, there's too much air in the mixture to support
combustion.

The very first thing I'd check is the bolts or screws that hold the
carburetor
to the engine; I'll bet they're loose.

If that's not the case, then there's probably a small bit of gunk
lodged in
a passage in the carburetor, or in the jet, and the next thing to do
is to
remove and dismantle the carburetor, and do what you should have done
the
first time you had it apart: blow everything clean with compressed
air.


The bolts are tight - I've removed the carb several times, but I'll bet the
gasket between the carb and the engine is kerplunked allowing air
infiltration. I have some gasket material from which I'll make a new one and
give it a try. On a similar quest, this Tecumseh engine has two adjustable
needle valves. I adjusted these both to 1-1/2 turns from fully closed. Is
that right.

Thanks for the tip.

At the garage sale, I bought a B&D electric edger for $15 and the owner
threw in the gas one for another ten.

Even at reduced power - with the choke fully on - this sucker edges like a
sumbitch!

On Sep 26, 8:07*am, "HeyBub" wrote:


The bolts are tight - I've removed the carb several times, but I'll bet the
gasket between the carb and the engine is kerplunked allowing air
infiltration. I have some gasket material from which I'll make a new one and
give it a try. On a similar quest, this Tecumseh engine has two adjustable
needle valves. I adjusted these both to 1-1/2 turns from fully closed. Is
that right.

Thanks for the tip.

At the garage sale, I bought a B&D electric edger for $15 and the owner
threw in the gas one for another ten.

1-1/2 turns is the starting point and should run pretty good there.

First, are you sure both screws are for needle valves? Could one be
for the idle? Usually there is only one needle to adjust.

Second, if the carb sits on top of the tank, be sure the screen
(filter) at the bottom of the pick-up tube is not blocked. Also check
to see that water or debris isn't laying on the bottom of the tank.
Cleaning just the carb and not cleaning the entire fuel system isn't
doing much good.

Hank ~~~assuming it is a 4 stroke engine

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 02:05:25 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

If that's not the case, then there's probably a small bit of gunk lodged in
a passage in the carburetor, or in the jet, and the next thing to do is to
remove and dismantle the carburetor, and do what you should have done the
first time you had it apart: blow everything clean with compressed air.

I use a stainless steel (SS) wire, plucked from a wire brush (held
with a pair of needle nosed pliers) to clean and clear the passages
(Venturi ?) in the carb. Look in the throat of the carb for them.

Perhaps even a wire cut from a guitar string might work. A carb
cleaner can then be used to blow the passages out.

Hank wrote:
On Sep 26, 8:07 am, "HeyBub" wrote:


The bolts are tight - I've removed the carb several times, but I'll
bet the gasket between the carb and the engine is kerplunked
allowing air infiltration. I have some gasket material from which
I'll make a new one and give it a try. On a similar quest, this
Tecumseh engine has two adjustable needle valves. I adjusted these
both to 1-1/2 turns from fully closed. Is that right.

Thanks for the tip.

At the garage sale, I bought a B&D electric edger for $15 and the
owner threw in the gas one for another ten.

1-1/2 turns is the starting point and should run pretty good there.

First, are you sure both screws are for needle valves? Could one be
for the idle? Usually there is only one needle to adjust.

Second, if the carb sits on top of the tank, be sure the screen
(filter) at the bottom of the pick-up tube is not blocked. Also check
to see that water or debris isn't laying on the bottom of the tank.
Cleaning just the carb and not cleaning the entire fuel system isn't
doing much good.


I got a freebie chipper with a tecumseh engine that would not run right. I
finally figuered out that someone had reversed the needles in the jets. I
swapped the low speed and high speed needles and everything worked great.

The 1 1/2 turn adjustment is a starting point only.

http://www.google.com/search?q=tecum...x=&startPage=1

The carb setting sounds right. "turn" is 360 degrees, in this case.

Sounds like you have air leak from the carb gasket, as you said. Take
the carb gasket back out. Give it a thin layer of Permatex IIB non
hardening gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. Then, reassemble.
It's OK to wear disposable gloves. Alcohol removes any mess. Auto
drygas is good. The stuff doesn't want to come off skin, clothes, etc.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...

The bolts are tight - I've removed the carb several times, but I'll
bet the
gasket between the carb and the engine is kerplunked allowing air
infiltration. I have some gasket material from which I'll make a new
one and
give it a try. On a similar quest, this Tecumseh engine has two
adjustable
needle valves. I adjusted these both to 1-1/2 turns from fully closed.
Is
that right.

Thanks for the tip.

At the garage sale, I bought a B&D electric edger for $15 and the
owner
threw in the gas one for another ten.

Even at reduced power - with the choke fully on - this sucker edges
like a
sumbitch!

Hank wrote:

1-1/2 turns is the starting point and should run pretty good there.

First, are you sure both screws are for needle valves? Could one be
for the idle? Usually there is only one needle to adjust.


Actually, it has THREE needle valves. One, non-adjustable, inside the carb
to govern fuel flow to the diaphragm - this is a no-float model - and two on
the outside - which I presume are low-speed and high-speed adjustments.


Second, if the carb sits on top of the tank, be sure the screen
(filter) at the bottom of the pick-up tube is not blocked. Also check
to see that water or debris isn't laying on the bottom of the tank.
Cleaning just the carb and not cleaning the entire fuel system isn't
doing much good.

Nah, tank is above the carb and there is no fuel filter.


Hank ~~~assuming it is a 4 stroke engine

It is.

On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:17:45 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Hank wrote:

1-1/2 turns is the starting point and should run pretty good there.

First, are you sure both screws are for needle valves? Could one be
for the idle? Usually there is only one needle to adjust.


Actually, it has THREE needle valves. One, non-adjustable, inside the carb
to govern fuel flow to the diaphragm - this is a no-float model - and two on
the outside - which I presume are low-speed and high-speed adjustments.


I found once, when installing a diaphragm, that it can be installed
wrong... upside down it would not function as intended. They do need
to be installed in the proper orientation. Seems silly but it is true.
I put one in upside down and later had to change it (flipped it over)
and it worked fine.


Second, if the carb sits on top of the tank, be sure the screen
(filter) at the bottom of the pick-up tube is not blocked. Also check
to see that water or debris isn't laying on the bottom of the tank.
Cleaning just the carb and not cleaning the entire fuel system isn't
doing much good.

Nah, tank is above the carb and there is no fuel filter.


Hank ~~~assuming it is a 4 stroke engine

It is.

On Sep 26, 7:14*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 26 Sep 2010 16:17:45 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Hank wrote:

1-1/2 turns is the starting point and should run pretty good there.

First, are you sure both screws are for needle valves? Could one be
for the idle? Usually there is only one needle to adjust.

Actually, it has THREE needle valves. One, non-adjustable, inside the carb
to govern fuel flow to the diaphragm - this is a no-float model - and two on
the outside - which I presume are *low-speed and high-speed adjustments.

I found once, when installing a diaphragm, that it can be installed
wrong... upside down it would not function as intended. They do need
to be installed in the proper orientation. Seems silly but it is true.
I put one in upside down and later had to change it (flipped it over)
and it worked fine.





Second, if the carb sits on top of the tank, be sure the screen
(filter) at the bottom of the pick-up tube is not blocked. Also check
to see that water or debris isn't laying on the bottom of the tank.
Cleaning just the carb and not cleaning the entire fuel system isn't
doing much good.

Nah, tank is above the carb and there is no fuel filter.

Hank ~~~assuming it is a 4 stroke engine

It is.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The easy way to check for leaks around the gsaket is to spray a little
wd40 or something similar around the gasket edges. If there is a leak
the rpm will change.

HeyBub wrote:
... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it
didn't run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass.
Next, I replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and
hosed the dude down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent),
so any helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was
worth it.

Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions. As each was implemented, the
edger got closer and closer to working.

My last removal and cleaning of the carb was followed by replacing the hose
from the gas tank to the carburetor. Inspection of the 3" hose revealed
itty-bitty bits of it were flaking off, no doubt entering the carburetor and
jamming up something.

Edger now runs like a scalded cat. I would have no problem using it as a
six-inch Ditch Witch!

Once again, thanks to all for the enlightened advice.

On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 15:48:05 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

HeyBub wrote:
... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it
didn't run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass.
Next, I replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and
hosed the dude down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent),
so any helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was
worth it.

Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions. As each was implemented, the
edger got closer and closer to working.

My last removal and cleaning of the carb was followed by replacing the hose
from the gas tank to the carburetor. Inspection of the 3" hose revealed
itty-bitty bits of it were flaking off, no doubt entering the carburetor and
jamming up something.

Edger now runs like a scalded cat. I would have no problem using it as a
six-inch Ditch Witch!

Once again, thanks to all for the enlightened advice.


Good for you and glad you got the contraption running. I was wondering
about it and your earlier post.

Just today (Wednesday) I finally decided to start my 5 HP power
washer. It sat through winter and all summer, so I knew it might be
difficult to start. I helped a neighbor a couple months ago start his
PW. I advised him to buy some starting fluid. I removed his air
filter, shot some in the carb, choked it and had him pull the cord. It
took just a few minutes to get him going strong.

Mine sat so long I borrowed his can of starting fluid, hoping that
would get me going. I could get the 30 year old engine to fire with
the fluid, but it would only run for seconds..

Finally I removed the float bowl, sprayed it down -- all looked well
for the moment. The bowl, float and all looked and operated well as I
sprayed them down.

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up (from the bowl
bottom) through the center of the bolt. The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Like you say a "scalded cat".

Now I have work to do ... shame on me!

Oren wrote:
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 15:48:05 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

HeyBub wrote:
... from Craigslist ad*. It's a 3HP Craftsman and the seller said it
didn't run.

First I pressure-washed the device, to remove the gunk and grass.
Next, I replaced the carb's diaphragm and carb's needle-valve and
hosed the dude down with carb cleaner.

The machine will now run, BUT

If other than full choke, the engine dies.

My skills at small engine repair are at zero (or closely adjacent),
so any helpful hints would be appreciated.

Thanks

------------
* The owner only wanted ten dollars, so I thought the gamble was
worth it.

Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions. As each was
implemented, the edger got closer and closer to working.

My last removal and cleaning of the carb was followed by replacing
the hose from the gas tank to the carburetor. Inspection of the 3"
hose revealed itty-bitty bits of it were flaking off, no doubt
entering the carburetor and jamming up something.

Edger now runs like a scalded cat. I would have no problem using it
as a six-inch Ditch Witch!

Once again, thanks to all for the enlightened advice.


Good for you and glad you got the contraption running. I was wondering
about it and your earlier post.

Just today (Wednesday) I finally decided to start my 5 HP power
washer. It sat through winter and all summer, so I knew it might be
difficult to start. I helped a neighbor a couple months ago start his
PW. I advised him to buy some starting fluid. I removed his air
filter, shot some in the carb, choked it and had him pull the cord. It
took just a few minutes to get him going strong.

Mine sat so long I borrowed his can of starting fluid, hoping that
would get me going. I could get the 30 year old engine to fire with
the fluid, but it would only run for seconds..

Finally I removed the float bowl, sprayed it down -- all looked well
for the moment. The bowl, float and all looked and operated well as I
sprayed them down.

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up (from the bowl
bottom) through the center of the bolt. The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Like you say a "scalded cat".

Now I have work to do ... shame on me!

There's the cartoon of a mechanic showing a part to the doctor who owns the
striken Mercedes:

"There is much science still doesn't know about carburetors."

With ether, if you spray it into the spark plug hole. The cylinder
wall dries out, and turns a $500 generator into a $75 Ebay item. A
"helpful" neighbor did this to my Dad.

Spray ether onto the air filter instead.

Oven cleaner like "Easy Off" is excellent for cleaning carbs. Put all
the parts into something like a spaghetti strainer, in the sink.
Spray. Wait about a minute, and rinse with water. Sloughs off grease,
and varnish very nicely. Dry with a paper towel or two, and
reassemble.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren"
wrote in message ...

Just today (Wednesday) I finally decided to start my 5 HP power
washer. It sat through winter and all summer, so I knew it might be
difficult to start. I helped a neighbor a couple months ago start his
PW. I advised him to buy some starting fluid. I removed his air
filter, shot some in the carb, choked it and had him pull the cord. It
took just a few minutes to get him going strong.

Mine sat so long I borrowed his can of starting fluid, hoping that
would get me going. I could get the 30 year old engine to fire with
the fluid, but it would only run for seconds..

Finally I removed the float bowl, sprayed it down -- all looked well
for the moment. The bowl, float and all looked and operated well as I
sprayed them down.

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up (from the bowl
bottom) through the center of the bolt. The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Like you say a "scalded cat".

Now I have work to do ... shame on me!

I like it! Simple, elegant, and cute.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
...

There's the cartoon of a mechanic showing a part to the doctor who
owns the
striken Mercedes:

"There is much science still doesn't know about carburetors."

On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:15:56 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

With ether, if you spray it into the spark plug hole. The cylinder
wall dries out, and turns a $500 generator into a $75 Ebay item. A
"helpful" neighbor did this to my Dad.

Spray ether onto the air filter instead.

Oven cleaner like "Easy Off" is excellent for cleaning carbs. Put all
the parts into something like a spaghetti strainer, in the sink.
Spray. Wait about a minute, and rinse with water. Sloughs off grease,
and varnish very nicely. Dry with a paper towel or two, and
reassemble.

The starting fluid product I borrowed from my neighbor has a
"lubricant" in it and can be used in the engine cylinders, so the can
states.

Valvoline® Extra Strength Starting Fluid

Provides faster, smoother starting

* For faster, smoother starting of gasoline and diesel engines in
any weather
* Starts engines quickly and reduces drain on batteries
* Compatible with gasoline or diesel engines
* Contains upper cylinder lubricant
* For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws,
marine engines and motorcycles

* Download Product Info PDF
* MSDS

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57

On Sep 30, 9:15*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:


What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up *(from the bowl
bottom) *through the center of the bolt. *The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.


Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I have a guitar string ( High E, smallest one) in my tool box for such
things. They are long and sturdy. They fit the smallest of jets. If
you know someone who plays guitar, get one from them when they break
one or replace their strings, which they do both often.

Hank

Hank wrote:

Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I have a guitar string ( High E, smallest one) in my tool box for such
things. They are long and sturdy. They fit the smallest of jets. If
you know someone who plays guitar, get one from them when they break
one or replace their strings, which they do both often.


Good suggestion. Regrettably, I don't know anyone who plays a guitar, even
when I slept on top of Janis Joplin back at the University of Texas, she
played an autoharp.

Maybe a hippie store will sell a guitar string to a straight dude?

On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:55:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

(Correcting the incorrect attribution)

Oren wrote:


What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up *(from the bowl
bottom) *through the center of the bolt. *The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.



Hank wrote:

Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.


I used a "starting fluid" , and not a "cleaning fluid". One or two
shots of "starting fluid" and she fired a bit. Then I cleared the bowl
bolt jet with a SS wire. No need for a complete disassemble.

I have a guitar string ( High E, smallest one) in my tool box for such
things. They are long and sturdy. They fit the smallest of jets. If
you know someone who plays guitar, get one from them when they break
one or replace their strings, which they do both often.

Hank

Just don't break it off (or any small wire) in a passage / venturi.

Between a google poster and a top poster the thread got munged.

On Oct 1, 3:09*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Hank wrote:

Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I have a guitar string ( High E, smallest one) in my tool box for such
things. They are long and sturdy. They fit the smallest of jets. If
you know someone who plays guitar, get one from them when they break
one or replace their strings, which they do both often.

Good suggestion. Regrettably, I don't know anyone who plays a guitar,

You can buy a whole set of 6 strings ( different sizes) at any music
store for less than $5.

Hank

On Oct 1, 5:38*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:55:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

(Correcting the incorrect attribution)





Oren wrote:

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up *(from the bowl
bottom) *through the center of the bolt. *The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Hank wrote:
Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I used a "starting fluid" , and not a "cleaning fluid". One or two
shots of "starting fluid" and she fired a bit. Then I cleared the bowl
bolt jet with a SS wire. *No need for a complete disassemble.


You got lucky. Also, where did the sludge come from? Is there more
somewhere else in the fuel system?

Hank

On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 14:53:48 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Oct 1, 5:38*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:55:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

(Correcting the incorrect attribution)





Oren wrote:

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up *(from the bowl
bottom) *through the center of the bolt. *The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Hank wrote:
Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I used a "starting fluid" , and not a "cleaning fluid". One or two
shots of "starting fluid" and she fired a bit. Then I cleared the bowl
bolt jet with a SS wire. *No need for a complete disassemble.


You got lucky. Also, where did the sludge come from? Is there more
somewhere else in the fuel system?

Hank

Sitting for ten or eleven months through last winter and all summer.
I'm certain there may be more "sludge", but nothing stopping the
engine from running. It runs fine. Maybe one year in the future I'll
tear it down and soak all the carb parts in a "cleaner", just for
giggles.

Not so much luck , as experience and trouble shooting.

Gentlemen -- start you snow blowers! It is that time of year.

Buy online, where everyone is anonymous. I doubt guitar stores will
sell to anyone straight.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...

Good suggestion. Regrettably, I don't know anyone who plays a guitar,
even
when I slept on top of Janis Joplin back at the University of Texas,
she
played an autoharp.

Maybe a hippie store will sell a guitar string to a straight dude?

YEars ago, I bought a used snow blower. Two stroke Tecumseh engine,
powering a Toro. The unit didn't run. Cleaned the black stuff out of
the carb. And then it ran for a few seconds. Same deal. Finally, I cut
the fuel line and spliced in a fuel filter. Runs much better.

Good reminder. Time to get the snow blower running. And the generator.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...

Gentlemen -- start you snow blowers! It is that time of year.

The OP sprayed with ether. The "couple seconds of run" helps to
diagnose. Rule out ignition problems and compression. Helps rule it
down to the carb. I can't remember how he cleaned. Oh, yah. Thin wire
from a wire brush. Me, I use oven cleaner spray to clean out the ports
and jets of carbs.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Hank" wrote in message
...

Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I have a guitar string ( High E, smallest one) in my tool box for such
things. They are long and sturdy. They fit the smallest of jets. If
you know someone who plays guitar, get one from them when they break
one or replace their strings, which they do both often.

Hank

On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 09:07:43 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:15:56 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

With ether, if you spray it into the spark plug hole. The cylinder
wall dries out, and turns a $500 generator into a $75 Ebay item. A
"helpful" neighbor did this to my Dad.

Spray ether onto the air filter instead.

Oven cleaner like "Easy Off" is excellent for cleaning carbs. Put all
the parts into something like a spaghetti strainer, in the sink.
Spray. Wait about a minute, and rinse with water. Sloughs off grease,
and varnish very nicely. Dry with a paper towel or two, and
reassemble.

The starting fluid product I borrowed from my neighbor has a
"lubricant" in it and can be used in the engine cylinders, so the can
states.

Valvoline® Extra Strength Starting Fluid

Provides faster, smoother starting

* For faster, smoother starting of gasoline and diesel engines in
any weather
* Starts engines quickly and reduces drain on batteries
* Compatible with gasoline or diesel engines
* Contains upper cylinder lubricant
* For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws,
marine engines and motorcycles

* Download Product Info PDF
* MSDS

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57
That's the "good stuff" - only 20-30% ether - the rest is basically
naptha and light oil.

Some other brands are 20% ether, 70% propane or butane, and 10% light
oil. These are also safe. Anything over 50% ether is suspect.

On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 15:11:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 14:53:48 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

On Oct 1, 5:38Â*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:55:07 -0700 (PDT), Hank
wrote:

(Correcting the incorrect attribution)





Oren wrote:

What I found: The bolt for the float bowl has passages. My summation
was the bolt siphoned fuel from each side and up Â*(from the bowl
bottom) Â*through the center of the bolt. Â*The center vertical passage
was clogged with some goo. Using a SS wire, plucked from a wire brush
I cleared the center (vertical) passage. Put the bowl and bolt back
on.

One choke and two pulls, she fired up.

Hank wrote:
Spraying a carb with cleaner ( even as you did) is mostly useless. A
carb has to be COMPLETELY dis-assembled and all passages must be free
of debris.

I used a "starting fluid" , and not a "cleaning fluid". One or two
shots of "starting fluid" and she fired a bit. Then I cleared the bowl
bolt jet with a SS wire. Â*No need for a complete disassemble.


You got lucky. Also, where did the sludge come from? Is there more
somewhere else in the fuel system?

Hank

Sitting for ten or eleven months through last winter and all summer.
I'm certain there may be more "sludge", but nothing stopping the
engine from running. It runs fine. Maybe one year in the future I'll
tear it down and soak all the carb parts in a "cleaner", just for
giggles.

Not so much luck , as experience and trouble shooting.

Gentlemen -- start you snow blowers! It is that time of year.
Just put some "sea foam" in the gas and all the gunge will be gonzo.

Oh, the modern generation. And the new terms they use. Sea foam?
Gunge? Gonzo?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...


Gentlemen -- start you snow blowers! It is that time of year.

Just put some "sea foam" in the gas and all the gunge will be gonzo.

On Sat, 2 Oct 2010 09:05:15 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Oh, the modern generation. And the new terms they use. Sea foam?
Gunge? Gonzo?


"Sea Foam" is a brand name of a very excellent fuel additive - and I
suspect we are of the same generation.

On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 22:04:55 -0400, wrote:

Just put some "sea foam" in the gas and all the gunge will be gonzo.

Thanks for that. I went to read about the Sea Foam product. Next time
I'm at the auto parts store I'll pick some up.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/tech-info-gas-engines/