I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

Poke some small holes in the wall to see what in there. Typically masonry
will have furring strips, not full studs

Anthony, I think you might mean "plaster". A masonry wall is made
of brick or CMU. Many plaster walls were done on wood studs with
wood lath/metal lath/rock lath; many were also done on top of
brick, CMU, gypsolite block, terra cotta block. The wood framed
walls should have studs, the others will not. I would expect that
you should see studs with your stud sensor. Make sure you are
following the directions completely.

If you still do not get a consistent indication of a stud, it is
time for the time honored method of probing the wall with a drill
bit. If you do the drilling just at the top of the baseboard or
some other system, it will be fairly easy to fill the holes
without showing.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .


"Anthony" wrote in message
...
I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on
an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide
slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I
did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same
results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid
installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud
behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer
walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also,
that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

On Sep 5, 4:42*pm, "DanG" wrote:
Anthony, I think you might mean "plaster". *A masonry wall is made
of brick or CMU. *Many plaster walls were done on wood studs with
wood lath/metal lath/rock lath; many were also done on top of
brick, CMU, gypsolite block, terra cotta block. *The wood framed
walls should have studs, the others will not. *I would expect that
you should see studs with your stud sensor. *Make sure you are
following the directions completely.

If you still do not get a consistent indication of a stud, it is
time for the time honored method of probing the wall with a drill
bit. *If you do the drilling just at the top of the baseboard or
some other system, it will be fairly easy to fill the holes
without showing.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .

"Anthony" wrote in message

...

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on
an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide
slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I
did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same
results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid
installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud
behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer
walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also,
that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

Thank you, I stand corrected...oops. I cannot do the baseboard method,
cause it has ceramic tiles...its the bathroom wall.

On 9/5/2010 6:17 PM, Anthony wrote:
On Sep 5, 4:42 pm, wrote:
Anthony, I think you might mean "plaster". A masonry wall is made
of brick or CMU. Many plaster walls were done on wood studs with
wood lath/metal lath/rock lath; many were also done on top of
brick, CMU, gypsolite block, terra cotta block. The wood framed
walls should have studs, the others will not. I would expect that
you should see studs with your stud sensor. Make sure you are
following the directions completely.

If you still do not get a consistent indication of a stud, it is
time for the time honored method of probing the wall with a drill
bit. If you do the drilling just at the top of the baseboard or
some other system, it will be fairly easy to fill the holes
without showing.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .

wrote in message

...

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on
an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide
slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I
did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same
results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid
installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud
behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer
walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also,
that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

Thank you, I stand corrected...oops. I cannot do the baseboard method,
cause it has ceramic tiles...its the bathroom wall.

I might try a strong magnet. Find a nail and you've found a stud.

On Sep 5, 6:30*pm, Frank wrote:
On 9/5/2010 6:17 PM, Anthony wrote:



On Sep 5, 4:42 pm, *wrote:
Anthony, I think you might mean "plaster". *A masonry wall is made
of brick or CMU. *Many plaster walls were done on wood studs with
wood lath/metal lath/rock lath; many were also done on top of
brick, CMU, gypsolite block, terra cotta block. *The wood framed
walls should have studs, the others will not. *I would expect that
you should see studs with your stud sensor. *Make sure you are
following the directions completely.

If you still do not get a consistent indication of a stud, it is
time for the time honored method of probing the wall with a drill
bit. *If you do the drilling just at the top of the baseboard or
some other system, it will be fairly easy to fill the holes
without showing.

--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
Keep the whole world singing . . .

*wrote in message

....

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on
an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide
slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I
did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same
results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid
installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud
behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer
walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also,
that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

Thank you, I stand corrected...oops. I cannot do the baseboard method,
cause it has ceramic tiles...its the bathroom wall.

I might try a strong magnet. *Find a nail and you've found a stud.

Find a nail you find a stud" is it possible the nail if its there
is into a lath? Laths are pretty thin to enter a screw to hold up a
small cabinet. I prefer a stud.

On Sep 5, 4:09*pm, Anthony wrote:
I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I live in nearly 200-year-old house USA). The one "masonry" wall (9'
high) has NO STUDS whatsoever. I'm confused. Do you mean real
"masonry" or do you mean the modern fake brick/stone facing over wood
frame construction? In my house, you will NEVER find a "stud" on the
masonry wall no matter how long you look.

Why, exactly, do you need to find a stud? What are you planning once
you find one? Might help us offer some advice.

On Sep 5, 7:07*pm, tmclone wrote:
On Sep 5, 4:09*pm, Anthony wrote:

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I live in nearly 200-year-old house USA). The one "masonry" wall (9'
high) has NO STUDS whatsoever. I'm confused. Do you mean real
"masonry" or do you mean the modern fake brick/stone facing over wood
frame construction? In my house, you will NEVER find a "stud" on the
masonry wall no matter how long you look.

Why, exactly, do you need to find a stud? What are you planning once
you find one? Might help us offer some advice.

If you read the thread, i said i need a stud to add screws to hang up
a wooden small storage cabinet. No i was corrected that its not a
masonry wall its plaster wall.

On Sep 6, 1:55*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Sep 6, 6:10*am, Anthony wrote:



On Sep 5, 7:07*pm, tmclone wrote:

On Sep 5, 4:09*pm, Anthony wrote:

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results..
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I live in nearly 200-year-old house USA). The one "masonry" wall (9'
high) has NO STUDS whatsoever. I'm confused. Do you mean real
"masonry" or do you mean the modern fake brick/stone facing over wood
frame construction? In my house, you will NEVER find a "stud" on the
masonry wall no matter how long you look.

Why, exactly, do you need to find a stud? What are you planning once
you find one? Might help us offer some advice.

If you read the thread, i said i need a stud to add screws to hang up
a wooden small storage cabinet. No i was corrected that its not a
masonry wall its plaster wall.

"a small wooden storage cabinet".....

Depending on the cabinet's dimensions & total weight when loaded,
securing it to the wooden lath alone could be an acceptable method.
Using the small drill method in the area to be hidden by the cabinet
is probably the most positive way to verify stud location in your
situation.

cheers
Bob

HI, thanks could you elaborate on the small drill size function to
this naive 'handyman"? LOL

On 9/6/2010 7:08 PM, Anthony wrote:
On Sep 6, 1:55 pm, wrote:
On Sep 6, 6:10 am, wrote:



On Sep 5, 7:07 pm, wrote:

On Sep 5, 4:09 pm, wrote:

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I live in nearly 200-year-old house USA). The one "masonry" wall (9'
high) has NO STUDS whatsoever. I'm confused. Do you mean real
"masonry" or do you mean the modern fake brick/stone facing over wood
frame construction? In my house, you will NEVER find a "stud" on the
masonry wall no matter how long you look.

Why, exactly, do you need to find a stud? What are you planning once
you find one? Might help us offer some advice.

If you read the thread, i said i need a stud to add screws to hang up
a wooden small storage cabinet. No i was corrected that its not a
masonry wall its plaster wall.

"a small wooden storage cabinet".....

Depending on the cabinet's dimensions& total weight when loaded,
securing it to the wooden lath alone could be an acceptable method.
Using the small drill method in the area to be hidden by the cabinet
is probably the most positive way to verify stud location in your
situation.

cheers
Bob

HI, thanks could you elaborate on the small drill size function to
this naive 'handyman"? LOL

With light pencil marks, mark on the wall where you want the cabinet to
go. Within these marks, start drilling a horizontal row of holes, using,
say, a long 3/16" bit. Skinnier would work, but in old hard plaster or
old rock-hard framing, the real skinny ones are easy to snap off. Make
the holes about an inch apart. By the sound of the drill, and by how the
drill suddenly plunges toward the wall when you are NOT on a stud, you
will quickly find your stud. (note well- As Soon As you hit an air
pocket, stop drilling. Drilling into a pipe or a stapled wire can ruin
you whole day.) Move over 16" and try again. Hopefully the next stud
will be there, unless there happens to be a weird framing situation that
required a different spacing. If you decide NOT to put the cabinet
there, or ever need to take it down, the itty-bitty holes are easy to
plug with a finger full of patching compound.

Another trick- any outlets on the wall? If so, pull the cover plate, and
probe outside the box with a skinny screwdriver, or peek in there with a
flashlight. Boxes are usually nailed to a stud, and since most
electricians are right-handed, they are usually on the right side of the
stud. When I am hanging something, that is usually how I begin the
hunt, and it works more often than not.

--
aem sends...

On Sep 6, 4:08*pm, Anthony wrote:
On Sep 6, 1:55*pm, DD_BobK wrote:



On Sep 6, 6:10*am, Anthony wrote:

On Sep 5, 7:07*pm, tmclone wrote:

On Sep 5, 4:09*pm, Anthony wrote:

I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said *....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I live in nearly 200-year-old house USA). The one "masonry" wall (9'
high) has NO STUDS whatsoever. I'm confused. Do you mean real
"masonry" or do you mean the modern fake brick/stone facing over wood
frame construction? In my house, you will NEVER find a "stud" on the
masonry wall no matter how long you look.

Why, exactly, do you need to find a stud? What are you planning once
you find one? Might help us offer some advice.

If you read the thread, i said i need a stud to add screws to hang up
a wooden small storage cabinet. No i was corrected that its not a
masonry wall its plaster wall.

"a small wooden storage cabinet".....

Depending on the cabinet's dimensions & total weight when loaded,
securing it to the wooden lath alone could be an acceptable method.
Using the small drill method in the area to be hidden by the cabinet
is probably the most positive way to verify stud location in your
situation.

cheers
Bob

HI, thanks *could you elaborate on the small drill size function to
this naive 'handyman"? LOL

Anthony-

AEM explains the process well.

I like to use a smaller drill like 1/8" or 3/32" so the holes aren't
so big.
and I drill the holes 1 1/4" apart (the studs in my 1930 house are
never narrower than 1 3/4")

With my slightly different technique a wind up with smaller & fewer
holes.

As I drill I put an "X" above a hole that doesn't hit a stud,
I put a "check mark" above a hole that does hit a stud.

Once I hit a stud I'll still another couple holes to explore the
extent of the stud.
With the first stud localized, I'll start my next exploration 16"
away.

The outlet box trick is a good one, as is imagining how a the rough
framing for the window opening was done.

Also if oyu have a video camera that is somewhat infrared sensitive
you can often spot the studs by the temperature difference they
create.

(Google THERMAL BRIDGING)

cheers
Bob

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

I drill a hole, kinda oversized in the least visible place, then go in with
a coat hanger in a slight curve. You should be within a stud eight inches
either way. Sometimes you have to poke repeatedly to get it through the
insulation, or if you can see or feel, run it over the top of the paper if
the paper is in. Sometimes it helps to bend the tip back over making it
round, sometimes the sharp tip helps you poke. Anyway, that's the way I
find studs sometime.

Steve

"DD_BobK" wrote in message
news:279a77e0-f7c9-471a-a173-

stuff snipped

Also if oyu have a video camera that is somewhat infrared sensitive
you can often spot the studs by the temperature difference they
create.

(Google THERMAL BRIDGING)

Are you sure of this? I could see being able to do it with the laser-aimed
remote infrared thermometers you can get from Harbor Freight or Ebay

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrare...ter-93984.html

but infrared imaging requires expensive, specially designed infrared cameras
(that the last time I looked cost several thousand dollars). I don't know
of any way that any standard video camera would be able to image studs
behind a wall but I'd sure be interested in learning how if I am wrong. I
did Google "Thermal Bridging" and added "video camera" to the search terms
but I found nothing. Perhaps you can give us some better search terms.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

On 9/5/2010 3:09 PM, Anthony wrote:
I bought this Stanley stud finder and trying to locate a stud on an
old masonry wall. I did as the instructions said ....slide slowly in
a horizontal position with the activation button depressed. I did it
on a 8 foot wall and the red light with the sound kept going the
entire length of that wall. I did it vertically also...same results.
Which brings to mind that it probably has a metal grid installation as
they did in the old days. So how can I know if there is a stud behind
such walls with this tool. It seems to work fine on some newer walls
that have dry walls..but my problem is the masonry wall. Also, that
grid might be nailed to thin laths, which is not a stud.

If you could rent or borrow a Milwaukee SUB-SCANNER, I think you could
find what's behind the wall without a problem. I want one of the new
scanners bad, it's on my wish list.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...etection+Tools

http://preview.tinyurl.com/34ba5dx

TDD

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"DD_BobK" wrote in message
news:279a77e0-f7c9-471a-a173-

stuff snipped

Also if oyu have a video camera that is somewhat infrared sensitive
you can often spot the studs by the temperature difference they
create.

(Google THERMAL BRIDGING)

Are you sure of this? I could see being able to do it with the
laser-aimed
remote infrared thermometers you can get from Harbor Freight or Ebay

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrare...ter-93984.html

but infrared imaging requires expensive, specially designed infrared
cameras
(that the last time I looked cost several thousand dollars). I don't
know
of any way that any standard video camera would be able to image studs
behind a wall but I'd sure be interested in learning how if I am wrong.
I
did Google "Thermal Bridging" and added "video camera" to the search
terms
but I found nothing. Perhaps you can give us some better search terms.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

Just went outside with my Cen-Tech $20 thermal IR laser thermometer, and
ran
it over the stucco exterior of my house. There was a +.5 to +1.5 degree
difference at 24", and along the sides of the windows where the post would
be.

Steve

I'd attribute the difference to other, more likely factors. If you didn't
walk the wall exactly parallel to its surface and just stood in one spot
scanning, you were changing the reading angle and the spot size. That can
have quite an effect. I find all sorts of other variations when using my IR
gun thermometer to scan the walls, the floors and now, even a sheet of
plywood for this post. The plywood gave the most variation even though I am
sure it was all one temperature. Why? Different surface reflectivity.
It's the Achille's heel of these IR thermometers. Stucco's pretty
non-uniform. I'll bet you'll find variances just based on slight
differences in surface texture and coloration.

Whether any of the temperature variations you measured indicate a handheld
IR thermometer is capable of mapping out hidden studs is up for debate. It
might work on an outside wall on a really cold day, but when the indoor and
outdoor temperatures are close (as in interior walls), I suspect it would be
useless. I just ran mine along the inside and outside plaster walls to see
if I can tell where the studs are because the outside temps have fallen a
lot in the last day. I found a steady dropoff toward the window, but no
measurable difference when passing over a stud I marked off just the other
day to put up a shelf standard.

There are always reading variations around doors and windows but it's mostly
due to air leakage. If the camera method works, then you could have an
image of exactly where the studs are on the wall, which I think would be a
far better indicator of a stud than a difference in an IR temperature
reading.

While I find that IR thermometers are very useful to find leaks around doors
and to check the bottom of microwaved meals to make sure they're hot enough,
they don't seem to appear anywhere near as useful as a good studfinder.
Scan an inside wall for studs and see if you can see a repeatable spike
every 16". My tests on plaster and lathe are 100% negative.

The most important part of DD's post was the tantalizing item about how to
turn my handicam into a thermal imager like the ones used on police copters
and military gear. I know that the ancient Coolpix 9** series of cameras by
Nikon allow for IR photography by removing the IR cutoff filter but IR
photography is NOT the same as thermal imaging. The first works with
reflected IR light and produces false color images like purple trees and
green flowers. The second transforms IR emissions from warm bodies like
humans and rocket/tank engines into a visible image so you can see a white
human silhoutte running across a dark field at night. Very different
processes. That doesn't necessarily exclude using a camera with IR
capabilities to map studs, but my Google search was unproductive. I am
hoping to learn more.

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"DD_BobK" wrote in message
news:279a77e0-f7c9-471a-a173-

stuff snipped

Also if oyu have a video camera that is somewhat infrared sensitive
you can often spot the studs by the temperature difference they
create.

(Google THERMAL BRIDGING)

Are you sure of this? I could see being able to do it with the
laser-aimed
remote infrared thermometers you can get from Harbor Freight or Ebay

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrare...ter-93984.html

but infrared imaging requires expensive, specially designed infrared
cameras
(that the last time I looked cost several thousand dollars). I don't
know
of any way that any standard video camera would be able to image studs
behind a wall but I'd sure be interested in learning how if I am wrong.
I
did Google "Thermal Bridging" and added "video camera" to the search
terms
but I found nothing. Perhaps you can give us some better search terms.

Thanks!

--
Bobby G.

Just went outside with my Cen-Tech $20 thermal IR laser thermometer, and
ran
it over the stucco exterior of my house. There was a +.5 to +1.5 degree
difference at 24", and along the sides of the windows where the post
would
be.

Steve

I'd attribute the difference to other, more likely factors. If you didn't
walk the wall exactly parallel to its surface and just stood in one spot
scanning, you were changing the reading angle and the spot size. That can
have quite an effect. I find all sorts of other variations when using my
IR
gun thermometer to scan the walls, the floors and now, even a sheet of
plywood for this post. The plywood gave the most variation even though I
am
sure it was all one temperature. Why? Different surface reflectivity.
It's the Achille's heel of these IR thermometers. Stucco's pretty
non-uniform. I'll bet you'll find variances just based on slight
differences in surface texture and coloration.

Whether any of the temperature variations you measured indicate a handheld
IR thermometer is capable of mapping out hidden studs is up for debate.
It
might work on an outside wall on a really cold day, but when the indoor
and
outdoor temperatures are close (as in interior walls), I suspect it would
be
useless. I just ran mine along the inside and outside plaster walls to
see
if I can tell where the studs are because the outside temps have fallen a
lot in the last day. I found a steady dropoff toward the window, but no
measurable difference when passing over a stud I marked off just the other
day to put up a shelf standard.

There are always reading variations around doors and windows but it's
mostly
due to air leakage. If the camera method works, then you could have an
image of exactly where the studs are on the wall, which I think would be a
far better indicator of a stud than a difference in an IR temperature
reading.

While I find that IR thermometers are very useful to find leaks around
doors
and to check the bottom of microwaved meals to make sure they're hot
enough,
they don't seem to appear anywhere near as useful as a good studfinder.
Scan an inside wall for studs and see if you can see a repeatable spike
every 16". My tests on plaster and lathe are 100% negative.

The most important part of DD's post was the tantalizing item about how to
turn my handicam into a thermal imager like the ones used on police
copters
and military gear. I know that the ancient Coolpix 9** series of cameras
by
Nikon allow for IR photography by removing the IR cutoff filter but IR
photography is NOT the same as thermal imaging. The first works with
reflected IR light and produces false color images like purple trees and
green flowers. The second transforms IR emissions from warm bodies like
humans and rocket/tank engines into a visible image so you can see a white
human silhoutte running across a dark field at night. Very different
processes. That doesn't necessarily exclude using a camera with IR
capabilities to map studs, but my Google search was unproductive. I am
hoping to learn more.

--
Bobby G.

You are in error, sir. I conducted the test after dark, on the morning side
of the house, and I DID walk parallel over a level sidewalk instead of
standing in one point, and kept the device the same distances from all
surfaces, and perpendicular to them. You assume too much.

Steve