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#1
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing
party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid, no cracks, etc. My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. I do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound transmission at least a little. |
#2
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 7, 10:14*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. *I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. *I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. *On top of that is a few coats of latex paint. *The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid, no cracks, etc. My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? *Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? *I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. *Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? *I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. *The reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. *I do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound transmission at least a little. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate |
#3
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
N8N wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. |
#4
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 7, 10:25*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. *That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. *Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going, and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas. http://www.silentsource.com/index.html Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics. R |
#5
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"Jay-T" wrote in message ... N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. I wonder if the sheetrock would absorb moisture if it was glued? We used a plastic laminate in a nursing home kitchen. You can get them textured and they apply directly to the wall. |
#6
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
RicodJour wrote:
On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post): My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. |
#7
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 7, 11:16*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
RicodJour wrote: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post): My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? *Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? *I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. *Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? *I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it). You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting- type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly. R |
#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"RicodJour" wrote in message ... On Jan 7, 11:16 am, "Jay-T" wrote: RicodJour wrote: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post): My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it). You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting- type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly. R Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting Type Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING ready to go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing , help , ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes is enough if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the wait till you can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more ridgid and won't look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it won't make a lick of difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's your baby... |
#9
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
In ,
Jay-T typed: N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. Sheetrock isn't going to help noticeably I don't think. Just work around the interference things, and if it's a closet on the wall, also put foam inside those. It's not that much more work. If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening. Don't forget the ceiling, depending on how things are constructed; especially if it's a hung ceiling - noise will come that way, too. Be meticulous about plugging any holes thru the wall. Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. Twayne -- -- Live in the moment; be open to the possibilities that life has to offer. |
#10
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
In ,
RicodJour typed: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going, and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas. http://www.silentsource.com/index.html Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics. R Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the ferring. Twayne -- -- Live in the moment; be open to the possibilities that life has to offer. |
#11
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
In ,
Jay-T typed: RicodJour wrote: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Here is eaxactly what I am asking (from my original post): My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Glue is good; but sheetrock won't help sound transmission. Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Recommendations are to use ferring strips. You could even make them 2 x if you want room for more insulator material. Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? Braces work better; the glues grab quickly. I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. Go to store; read labels. Seems like Liquid Nails said it's good for concrete and I know there are several others. Read & pick. Twayne -- -- Often you'll find excellent advice on a newsgroup. Before you use that advice though, consider the ramifications of it being wrong or even dangerous; how important IS that to you? It's best to ALWAYS verify and confirm ANY advice from a newsgroup! |
#12
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
In ,
Master Betty typed: "Jay-T" wrote in message ... N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. I wonder if the sheetrock would absorb moisture if it was glued? We used a plastic laminate in a nursing home kitchen. You can get them textured and they apply directly to the wall. It might, along the bottom if not properly prepared; depends. The wall with open space on each side shouldn't in general be a big problem, but ... that's why they always recomment using ferring strips. Always possible to use a vapor barrier too if it's a worry; plastic sheeting is cheap. Twayne -- -- Live in the moment; be open to the possibilities that life has to offer. |
#13
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
Twayne wrote:
In , Jay-T typed: N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. Sheetrock isn't going to help noticeably I don't think. Just work around the interference things, and if it's a closet on the wall, also put foam inside those. It's not that much more work. If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening. Don't forget the ceiling, depending on how things are constructed; especially if it's a hung ceiling - noise will come that way, too. Be meticulous about plugging any holes thru the wall. Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. Twayne My mother once had an apartment that had concrete blocks between her unit and the next unit. The concrete block wall had a thin layer of plaster as the finished surface. I guess this would work if the blocks were straight. This would be the thinest that you could get away with. |
#14
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"benick" wrote in message
. .. "RicodJour" wrote in message ... I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it). You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting- type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly. R ---------------- Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting Type Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING ready to go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing , help , ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes is enough if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the wait till you can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more ridgid and won't look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it won't make a lick of difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's your baby... Interesting. I had never heard of using joint compound for something like this. I have used the 45-minute setting type, which I like, but not for that. I'm assuming some kind of notched thin set type of trowel would work best to create an even coating. |
#15
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"Twayne" wrote in message
... In , Jay-T typed: My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Glue is good; but sheetrock won't help sound transmission. Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? Braces work better; the glues grab quickly. Go to store; read labels. Seems like Liquid Nails said it's good for concrete and I know there are several others. Read & pick. I just found this online: http://www.greengluecompany.com/ . It "only" costs about $15 per tube, and they "only" recommend using 1 to 3 tubes per 4x8 sheet of drywall! :-) |
#16
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"Twayne" wrote in message
... In , ...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening......, Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than just the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is similar but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets. I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there. |
#17
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"Art Todesco" wrote in message
... My mother once had an apartment that had concrete blocks between her unit and the next unit. The concrete block wall had a thin layer of plaster as the finished surface. I guess this would work if the blocks were straight. This would be the thinest that you could get away with. Thanks. The existing party/dividing wall has bricks inside, but a completely smooth, flat, and hard surface of about 1/2 to 1 inches of "mud" (mortar-like material) plus paint. So, it is already surfaced in the same way that plaster serves as the finished surface on some walls. |
#18
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"Jay-T" wrote in message ... "benick" wrote in message . .. "RicodJour" wrote in message ... I don't think the sound reduction will warrant the effort, but, be that as it may, you can use joint compound to glue up the drywall or pretty much any adhesive caulk you want (if you use enough of it). You will need to rig up something to brace the boards against the wall so you won't get any bulging or have a wavy surface. Check out the USG web site for specifics on bonding with joint compound. Setting- type compound will shorten the required bracing time significantly. R ---------------- Ditto to the above...Done it many times..I use USG Durabond 45 Setting Type Joint Compound to glue it on...Just make SURE you have EVERYTHING ready to go as the compound will set in 45 minutes..ie. tools bracing , help , ect..They do have longer times available (90,220) but 45 minutes is enough if your ready and you'll have to do it in steps as well so the wait till you can go again is short....5/8 works better as it is more ridgid and won't look wavy if you don't brace it good...HTH...Oh , it won't make a lick of difference on your sound problem...But heh , it's your baby... Interesting. I had never heard of using joint compound for something like this. I have used the 45-minute setting type, which I like, but not for that. I'm assuming some kind of notched thin set type of trowel would work best to create an even coating. Nah...I mix it to about a medium consistancy and I trowl it on with my 10 inch knife but I can get it pretty good by eye...A knotch trowl would probably work better for a DIYer though...Check the USG website on uses for Durabond setting type compound....It can even be used to patch concrete above grade and as a floor leveler....LOL...HTH... |
#19
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 15:49:29 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote: In , RicodJour typed: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going, and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas. http://www.silentsource.com/index.html Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is readily available and easy to work with. Covering it with fabric or heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics. R Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the ferring. Twayne -- But homasote is less forgiving and more easily damaged than even drywall. |
#20
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 7, 8:26*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 15:49:29 -0500, "Twayne" wrote: , RicodJour typed: On Jan 7, 10:25 am, "Jay-T" wrote: N8N wrote: On Jan 7, 10:14 am, "Jay-T" wrote: I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. Typically what is done is to install 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips to the wall and then to attach the drywall to those. That also would allow you to put some thin foam insulation in the spaces between the furring strips. nate Thanks. Sorry, but I forgot to add that there is no room to do any kind of build-out or to add furring strips, etc. Adding just the sheetrock will already be pushing the limit a little due to doors, trim, kitchen cabinets, etc. that are along or adjacent to the existing wall. So, my only option is to glue or otherwise attach sheetrock directly to the existing wall. If you feel that is your only option, what exactly are you asking? Sound transmission works via a few different mechanisms, so the first thing to do is to determine which direction the sound will be going, and what acoustic frequency you are trying to reduce. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class This site has a number of products which might give you some ideas. http://www.silentsource.com/index.html Homasote is a good and inexpensive acoustical treatment that is readily available and easy to work with. *Covering it with fabric or heavy-bodied wallpaper would take care of the aesthetics. R Forgot all about homasote; good catch if you can only use 1 x for the ferring. Twayne -- But homasote is less forgiving and more easily damaged than even drywall.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Can you do something on the other side of the wall???? |
#22
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 7, 7:48*pm, "Jay-T" wrote:
"Twayne" wrote in message ... , ...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x instead of 1 *x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening......, *Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. *There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. *Adding anything more than just the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the door can't be moved or made smaller. *The front door to the house is similar but with just a little more room. *Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets. I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there. I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's, or from the neighbor's to yours? Those are two very different things and require two different approaches. R |
#23
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
"RicodJour" wrote in message
... On Jan 7, 7:48 pm, "Jay-T" wrote: "Twayne" wrote in message ... , ...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening......, Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than just the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is similar but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets. I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there. I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's, or from the neighbor's to yours? Those are two very different things and require two different approaches. R ------------------- I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. Knowing that the best that I could do is maybe cut down the noise transmission a little, I will only be doing this if it is an easy project -- such as glue up another layer of sheetrock over the existing party wall. |
#24
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
Jay-T wrote:
I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem? I ask because I lived for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured concrete and each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a sound from the neighbors. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#25
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 8, 6:30*am, "Jay-T" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message ... On Jan 7, 7:48 pm, "Jay-T" wrote: "Twayne" wrote in message ... , ...... Just work around the interference things,...., If you use 2 x instead of 1 x you'll be able to use a much more effective (thicker)foam for the sound deadening......, Doors, windows at each end shouldn't be a problem; just work around them. It's hard to describe in a post like this, but there is no way to "work around" what's there and build out a wall that is even 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick. There's a door to the basement that is attached to, and perpendicular to, the party/dividing wall -- and the hinges to that door are no only 1 1/2 inches from the existing wall. Adding anything more than just the 1/2 to 5/8 inches of sheetrock would interfere with that door and the door can't be moved or made smaller. The front door to the house is similar but with just a little more room. Same for the built-in kitchen cabinets. I can't get away with adding more than about 1/2 to 5/8 inches there. I'm still not clear on what you are trying to achieve. *Are you trying to reduce the transmission of sound from your space to the neighbor's, or from the neighbor's to yours? *Those are two very different things and require two different approaches. R ------------------- I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. *I bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. *Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. *Knowing that the best that I could do is maybe cut down the noise transmission a little, I will only be doing this if it is an easy project -- such as glue up another layer of sheetrock over the existing party wall. Now we're finally getting somewhere. If you're looking to make it quieter for the neighbors, you don't need to add mass - the block wall already has a lot of mass. You're looking for an acoustical surface, which is why I mentioned the Homasote panels. There are alternatives, but that method is the best way to save your neighbors tender ears. Which leads to another question - do you find that there is a problem now with you hearing the neighbors activities? If not, and assuming that the construction on the other side of the partition wall is similar (a good bet), you probably don't have to do anything. DadiOH asked if the neighbors have complained, which, even if they haven't would be a good thing to ask them - do you hear me knocking about through the wall? Is there a problem with asking them? R |
#26
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
dadiOH wrote:
Jay-T wrote: I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem? Yes. The neighbor menioned that while I am doing work on the house, if there is anything that could be done to cut down the noise transmission between the two properties, that would be great. He said that it is easy to hear between the two properties -- that the sounds seem to go right through the walls. He's right about that -- it does. He wasn't complaining, and he was completely polite about it. He just said that if while I was doing the work anything along those lines that might help would be great. I said I wasn't sure what could be done, if anything, or what might work. Since it is going to be a rental, I am reluctant to put any soft surface on the walls -- such as acoutic tiles or whatever -- and my reading and experience says that soft surfaces may not do much anyway. Soft surfaces apparently reduce echo/in-room issues but don't do much for transmission issues, contrary to popular opinion. For transmission issues, apparently the best approach is using one of the isolated wall techniques, and the second best option is increasing the density of the walls. You wrote, I ask because I lived for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured concrete and each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a sound from the neighbors. I think that is the density concept at work. In my case, the party wall is an old-time strange type of setup. They seem to have created some kind of stud, lathe, and plaster-like combination wall, and then just filled in the spaces using stacked mostly vertical (and some horizontal) red bricks in between. It's not really a brick wall as in, lay the bricks on top of each other with mortar in between, the way that a typical brick wall is made. Instead, the bricks are just there filling up the space with a few touches of mortar here and there. I never saw construction like that before. I think maybe there was some concept that the bricks served as some kind of fire wall or barrier rather than being a typical structural brick wall. I really don't know what the story was with that, but the space is "mostly" filled with bricks piled on top of each other and also a LOT of gaps between the bricks. |
#27
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
RicodJour wrote:
Now we're finally getting somewhere. If you're looking to make it quieter for the neighbors, you don't need to add mass - the block wall already has a lot of mass. You're looking for an acoustical surface, which is why I mentioned the Homasote panels. There are alternatives, but that method is the best way to save your neighbors tender ears. Which leads to another question - do you find that there is a problem now with you hearing the neighbors activities? Yes. The person next door lives alone, and I am only there sometimes doing work when he is there. But, in some rooms, like the upstairs bathroom in particular, it is almost like he is in the same room that I am in. People who have been doing work there for me have said the same thing -- that you can "hear everything" from next door. The bathroom in particular is something I can fix somewhat, I think. Part of the problem is the old recessed metal medicine cabinet. I took that out and opened up the wall. I took out the goofy loose bricks in that area, and I will be figuring out how to refill that space to cut down on the sound transmission. In that one case, I have access to a fairly large hollow wall area -- maybe 4 feet by 4 feet, above the ceramic wall tile -- it's a small bathroom. I am not sure what will go in that space. Some people have said to stuff fiber glass insulation in there. Maybe that will work -- I don't know. I have also thought of using that spray foam stuff to fill most of the void plus a few other techniques, but I am not sure. But, my original post was about the rest of the party wall between the two living rooms, bedrooms, etc. If not, and assuming that the construction on the other side of the partition wall is similar (a good bet), you probably don't have to do anything. DadiOH asked if the neighbors have complained, which, even if they haven't would be a good thing to ask them - do you hear me knocking about through the wall? Is there a problem with asking them? R |
#28
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Jan 8, 12:08*am, "benick" wrote:
"hr(bob) " wrote in message Can you do something on the other side of the wall???? Did you even bother reading the first senrence in the O P ???? I suppose he could buy the house next door...LOL... He could own the entire building. He may be the landlord. It would be very unusual to buy half a house, and rent it out. Personally, though, he is wasting his time. Unless he adds a thickness of sound-deadening matieral between the masonry and the drywall, all he's doing is giving Home Depot more of his hard earned money. However, if he insists on going forward with this asinine idea, he can just use liquid nails or equivalent construction adhesive. |
#29
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
On Fri, 8 Jan 2010 14:07:32 -0500, "Jay-T"
wrote: dadiOH wrote: Jay-T wrote: I understand the issues about sound reduction and the limited amount that can be achieved without building detached isolated walls or barriers etc. I bought the property as an investment and will be renting it out. Since I am in the process of finishing repairs, I thought maybe I could do "a little" to help make it a little quieter for my next door neighbor by slightly cutting down on noise coming from my future tenants. Do the next door neighbors *say* there is a problem? Yes. The neighbor menioned that while I am doing work on the house, if there is anything that could be done to cut down the noise transmission between the two properties, that would be great. He said that it is easy to hear between the two properties -- that the sounds seem to go right through the walls. He's right about that -- it does. He wasn't complaining, and he was completely polite about it. He just said that if while I was doing the work anything along those lines that might help would be great. I said I wasn't sure what could be done, if anything, or what might work. Since it is going to be a rental, I am reluctant to put any soft surface on the walls -- such as acoutic tiles or whatever -- and my reading and experience says that soft surfaces may not do much anyway. Soft surfaces apparently reduce echo/in-room issues but don't do much for transmission issues, contrary to popular opinion. For transmission issues, apparently the best approach is using one of the isolated wall techniques, and the second best option is increasing the density of the walls. You wrote, I ask because I lived for 16 years in a condo. The walls between units were poured concrete and each side had a layer of 1/2" drywall. I never heard a sound from the neighbors. I think that is the density concept at work. In my case, the party wall is an old-time strange type of setup. They seem to have created some kind of stud, lathe, and plaster-like combination wall, and then just filled in the spaces using stacked mostly vertical (and some horizontal) red bricks in between. It's not really a brick wall as in, lay the bricks on top of each other with mortar in between, the way that a typical brick wall is made. Instead, the bricks are just there filling up the space with a few touches of mortar here and there. I never saw construction like that before. I think maybe there was some concept that the bricks served as some kind of fire wall or barrier rather than being a typical structural brick wall. I really don't know what the story was with that, but the space is "mostly" filled with bricks piled on top of each other and also a LOT of gaps between the bricks. It's like the old post and beam rubble infil houses of the early 18th century. Grandad's house had basically a barn frame with gravel and lime over loose stone and rubble infil, covered in stucco on the outside and plaster on the inside. Colder than a cave in the winter!!! |
#31
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
Thanks. That looks interesting. After seeing what you posted, I copied
this from a different page on the same webiste. The questions are all clickable links. Sound 1. What Johns Manville products provide the best sound control? 2. What is the difference between a thermal fiber glass batt and an acoustic fiber glass batt? 3. Can I use the Blown In Blanket System (BIBS) for sound control applications? 4. Are there advantages to using steel studs vs. wood studs? 5. What are resilient channels and where are they sold? DanG wrote: Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel. http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm "Jay-T" wrote in message ... I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid, no cracks, etc. My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. I do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound transmission at least a little. |
#32
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
Oops. The links were clickable before I posted them. I guess they got
converted to plain text. They were from the following page under the sub-heading "Sound": http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/902.htm Jay-T wrote: Thanks. That looks interesting. After seeing what you posted, I copied this from a different page on the same webiste. The questions are all clickable links. Sound 1. What Johns Manville products provide the best sound control? 2. What is the difference between a thermal fiber glass batt and an acoustic fiber glass batt? 3. Can I use the Blown In Blanket System (BIBS) for sound control applications? 4. Are there advantages to using steel studs vs. wood studs? 5. What are resilient channels and where are they sold? DanG wrote: Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel. http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm "Jay-T" wrote in message ... I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid, no cracks, etc. My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. I do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound transmission at least a little. |
#33
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Glue sheetrock to masonry wall?
Install a resilient channel to the masonry wall with Topcon type
fasteners. Install drywall to the resilient channel. http://www.jm.com/insulation/faqs/996.htm -- ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) "Jay-T" wrote in message ... I am thinking about adding a layer of sheetrock to an existing party/dividing wall that is between my house and the house next door. I am trying to decide what is the best way to attach the sheetrock to the existing wall. The party/dividing wall is above grade in the living area of the house and is made of bricks/masonry covered by what seems like either mortar or the type of "rough coat" material that goes under plaster. I am not sure exactly what it is, but it seems softer than mortar. On top of that is a few coats of latex paint. The existing wall is in excellent shape -- flat, solid, no cracks, etc. My question is, how should I attach the new sheetrock to the existing wall? Can I just glue it to the existing wall or do I need to use some type of fasteners in addition to glue? Maybe just glue it and only use a few screws to hold it in place while the glue dries? I haven't tried seeing if sheetrock screws will go into the wall yet, but I can try that. Or, maybe some kind of Tapcon screws would be needed -- but I'd like to avoid having to do a lot of drilling etc. for a whole wall. Also, what type of glue should I be using? I've seen Liquid Nails, LockTite, etc. but don't know which to choose. The property is a house that I own that will be rented out. The reason that I am thinking of adding a layer of sheetrock to the party/dividing wall is to try to help reduce the sound transmission between the two properties. I do know that just adding sheetrock won't do too much, but I am hoping it will at least add a little more density to the wall to cut down the sound transmission at least a little. |
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