On Wed, 25 Aug 2010 21:01:39 -0700, Uno wrote:

I bought a piece of 6/4 red oak that I'll use for a threshold. I'm
matching to wood that has recently been treated with Thompson's water seal.

Do I go with Thompson's on the threshold, or do you want to finish it
off differently as it's going to be the thing that everyone steps on.

Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Thanks for your comment, and cheers,

Uno wrote:
I bought a piece of 6/4 red oak that I'll use for a threshold. I'm
matching to wood that has recently been treated with Thompson's water seal.

Do I go with Thompson's on the threshold, or do you want to finish it
off differently as it's going to be the thing that everyone steps on.

Finish it same as if it were a wood floor -- it is.

Red oak in particular being so porous needs a paste filler/sanding
sealer before staining and finishing to fill the open pores.

Use a good quality floor varnish of your choice; polyurethane or no.

--

I bought a piece of 6/4 red oak that I'll use for a threshold. I'm
matching to wood that has recently been treated with Thompson's water seal.

Do I go with Thompson's on the threshold, or do you want to finish it
off differently as it's going to be the thing that everyone steps on.

Thanks for your comment, and cheers,
--
Uno

zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?
--
Uno

dpb wrote:

Finish it same as if it were a wood floor -- it is.

Right. (It sometimes takes me a bit to get my head screwed on the right
way.)

Red oak in particular being so porous needs a paste filler/sanding
sealer before staining and finishing to fill the open pores.

What kind of paste filler? Are you my english friend from
comp.lang.fortran? If so, you might not know what Lowe's and Home Depot
are and might not know our brands.

I shaped it roughly tonight. Gave it a cursory sanding on all visible
surfaces. I chucked up the bit for the router and thought i might forge
ahead, but I thought/think I want to take some time before I do that.

These clients are out of town now, so I can experiment a little to find
best methods before needing to execute.

Use a good quality floor varnish of your choice; polyurethane or no.

I'm trained as a union carpenter who now needs to scab because he can't
lift a ton of rock every day any more and needs to keep a roof over his
head, so they didn't ever teach us anything about paint. I have a
simple question.

What makes stain, varnish, and polyurethane different? Which can you
mix? What do you have to apply first?
--
Uno

"Uno" wrote in message
...
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?
--
Uno

Most of us that have ever used their products think they are crap

On Aug 27, 4:41*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Uno" wrote in message

...

wrote:

Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?
--
Uno

Most of us that have ever used their products think they are crap

Actually, crap has a purpose.

On Aug 26, 10:51*pm, Uno wrote:
wrote:
Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?

It doesn't last a year and you can't put anything over it with
anything else without a *lot* of work. It's active ingredient is
essentially wax. Would you wax exterior wood to protect it?

On 8/26/2010 11:51 PM, Uno wrote:
zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?

Its a poor performing product but has tremendous name recognition
because the company has spent a fortune telling everyone how great it is
(instead of actually making a good product). Lots of folks need to be
told what to buy. Big companies/big box stores have the warchest to do it.

I like Sikkens this product has worked well for me.


--
Airport Shuttle
Message origin: TRAVEL.com

Uno wrote:
dpb wrote:
....

What kind of paste filler? Are you my english friend from
comp.lang.fortran? If so, you might not know what Lowe's and Home Depot
are and might not know our brands.

I'm the same dpb but I've no clew why you'd think I'm a Brit...but, I'm
in farm country in SW KS far removed from places largest enough to have
the Borg's so I've no clue what brands they carry, sorry...

I'd guess anything they have of a recognized manufacturer will be
perfectly adequate.

Here's a link that has a decent discussion of the ideas in what you're
after...

http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/filpore.htm
....

What makes stain, varnish, and polyurethane different? Which can you
mix? What do you have to apply first?

See above article for an adequate description of process.

Stains or dyes are precisely that; colorants for the purpose of adding
color. They're not finishes at all. They will be marked as to which
topcoatings are compatible over them.

Here's an article on various finishes -- primarily from a woodworkers'
viewpoint but the basics of the finishes themselves is no different.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00060.asp

For a threshold, if it's exterior door, I'd use an exterior hard poly
varnish that contains UV-resistant agents; for interior I'd use an
interior floor varnish.

--

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 12:47:24 -0700, Uno wrote:

On 8/27/2010 10:10 AM, Joe wrote:
On Aug 26, 10:51 pm, wrote:
wrote:
Don't use Thompson's at all, ever. ...for *anything*.

Why do you say that?
--
Uno

Years ago Consumer Reports tested the stuff and gave it a 'Not
Recommended'. The company never changed anything, just kept bluffing
their way through the market; one can only guess why they weren't sued
for fraud. But the product containers are very well done.
You can likely make an equivalent product yourself with a couple bars
of paraffin wax dissolved in a whole lot of paint thinner. Can't
imagine why you would want to use it on anything important, though.

Crap ... I usually know to steer my clients in a better direction.

Sometimes I don't know more than they do on certain topics. If anyone
has suggestions for alternatives, I'm all ears.

Any *good* preservative, exterior stain, etc. I've heard the $10/yr/gallon
number used for deck preservative.

Uno wrote:
....

I'm glad to have another kansan to chat with. I also believe you're
approximately 73 year old. Am I close on that one?

OK, so what part of KS are you either in or from?

As to the latter, subtracting about 10 would be closer to the mark...

....

I have found that the best thing is to use the finish itself to fill the
pores. Take some of the finish you are going to use and reduce it about
25 percent with the proper solvent. If you are using oil based varn. or
oil based poly, use mineral spirits.

For red oak I'd vehemently disagree w/ that as "best". It's doable but
the paste filler will do a better job far quicker followed up by the
sanding sealer.

--

On 8/27/2010 2:06 PM, dpb wrote:
Uno wrote:
dpb wrote:
...

What kind of paste filler? Are you my english friend from
comp.lang.fortran? If so, you might not know what Lowe's and Home
Depot are and might not know our brands.

I'm the same dpb but I've no clew why you'd think I'm a Brit...but, I'm
in farm country in SW KS far removed from places largest enough to have
the Borg's so I've no clue what brands they carry, sorry...

I'm glad to have another kansan to chat with. I also believe you're
approximately 73 year old. Am I close on that one?

I'd guess anything they have of a recognized manufacturer will be
perfectly adequate.

Here's a link that has a decent discussion of the ideas in what you're
after...

http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/filpore.htm

I'm gonna go with mineral spirits:

I have found that the best thing is to use the finish itself to fill the
pores. Take some of the finish you are going to use and reduce it about
25 percent with the proper solvent. If you are using oil based varn. or
oil based poly, use mineral spirits.

--
Uno

On 8/28/2010 1:22 PM, dpb wrote:
Uno wrote:
...

I'm glad to have another kansan to chat with. I also believe you're
approximately 73 year old. Am I close on that one?

OK, so what part of KS are you either in or from?

You have to go through kansas to get from utah to ohio or vice versa.
You can go through wyoming, but I decided that was a little too "alpine"
for my tastes, with a female co-ed possibly at the wheel.

I treat kansas like iowa: I'm always looking for the best route no one's
ever heard of.

As to the latter, subtracting about 10 would be closer to the mark...

ok. they did a stat in c.l.f. about that. I think I was Lane Straatman
and 41 years old. You must be approximately 19 years my senior.

...

I have found that the best thing is to use the finish itself to fill
the pores. Take some of the finish you are going to use and reduce it
about 25 percent with the proper solvent. If you are using oil based
varn. or oil based poly, use mineral spirits.

For red oak I'd vehemently disagree w/ that as "best". It's doable but
the paste filler will do a better job far quicker followed up by the
sanding sealer.

I was able to get the surface I needed through routing sanding. Applied
"natural" stain. Light sanding and exterior on monday.

Have a nice sabbath.

(Thank God we don't have to work all the time.)
--
Uno

Uno wrote:
....

I treat kansas like iowa: I'm always looking for the best route no one's
ever heard of.
....

If you're not in a rush to get anywhere, take US 177 from about
Manhattan south through the Flint Hills including Cottonwood Falls on to
the follow US 160 west along the southern edge that will lead you to the
Red Hill country in Barber and Commanche counties...

Particularly recommended in late spring after the burns when the new
grass is simply gorgeous...

--

dpb wrote:

If you're not in a rush to get anywhere, take US 177 from about
Manhattan south through the Flint Hills including Cottonwood Falls on to
the follow US 160 west along the southern edge that will lead you to the
Red Hill country in Barber and Commanche counties...

Particularly recommended in late spring after the burns when the new
grass is simply gorgeous...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:KS...cDivisions.png

I can picture some of this. That's the big reason I stay off the
super-dupers--you miss too much.
--
Uno