I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

Molly Brown wrote:
I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

I'd submit there's probably more to this choice than HP...

a) What's the definition of "precise"?

b) What's the particular SS alloy?

If you're really talking precision, milling machine may be more apropos
than simply a press...

--

"Molly Brown" wrote in message
...
I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

It depends on the size holes you want to do, but I'd suggest buying
oversize, as you never know what the next project is. Also buy a vise to
hold the work, or good clamps and fences. Those things can throw a piece of
work quickly, and cause some damage to flesh. Vises for them are less than
$20.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

On Aug 16, 9:55*pm, dpb wrote:
Molly Brown wrote:
I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

I'd submit there's probably more to this choice than HP...

a) What's the definition of "precise"?

b) What's the particular SS alloy?

If you're really talking precision, milling machine may be more apropos
than simply a press...

--

It’s 1 ½” stainless steel plumbing pipe. I will need to tap threads to
the holes that I cut.

On Aug 17, 6:45*am, Molly Brown wrote:
On Aug 16, 9:55*pm, dpb wrote:





Molly Brown wrote:
I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

I'd submit there's probably more to this choice than HP...

a) What's the definition of "precise"?

b) What's the particular SS alloy?

If you're really talking precision, milling machine may be more apropos
than simply a press...

--

It’s 1 ½” stainless steel plumbing pipe. I will need to tap threads to
the holes that I cut.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think "plumbing pipe" will be a bit thin metal to tap threads into
even to drill with a conventional drill without distortion. It's
tough stuff. You would definately need high speed steel drills an even
then sharpen after every hole. You would need a good centre pop mark
too and I would say a pilot hole. Lots of cutting fluid or water too.

I think "plumbing pipe" will be a bit thin metal to tap threads into
even to drill with a conventional drill without distortion. It's
tough stuff. You would definately need high speed steel drills an even
then sharpen after every hole. You would need a good centre pop mark
too and I would say a pilot hole. Lots of cutting fluid or water too.


Cobalt "split point" drills and a good cooling type wax and lots of
patience? If you get machine length, they are like half the length of
regular bits, there will be much less distortion.

There may even be a pipe jig or clamp to help out. Depends on what you
wanna spend I guess.

"harry" wrote

It’s 1 ½” stainless steel plumbing pipe. I will need to tap threads to
the holes that I cut.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think "plumbing pipe" will be a bit thin metal to tap threads into
even to drill with a conventional drill without distortion.

Really? Visit or shop one day and I'll show you hundred of drilled and
tapped holes with air fittings. Schedule 40 is plenty thick for that.

Bought my Harbor Freight drill press 4 or 5 years ago, on sale for
$39.95.

They're $89.95 now, and go on sale periodically for $69.95.

Not a 'precision' machine by any means - spindle bearings allow some
play in the chuck, but it's well suited for the home craftsman's needs.

I'd buy it again, even at the now increased price.

Joe

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:00:45 -0400, J O E wrote:

Bought my Harbor Freight drill press 4 or 5 years ago, on sale for
$39.95.

They're $89.95 now, and go on sale periodically for $69.95.

Not a 'precision' machine by any means - spindle bearings allow some
play in the chuck, but it's well suited for the home craftsman's needs.

Yeah, that's what I've found with the cheap ones - there's a bit of slop
in the system which isn't there on the better stuff. I've not found it
really matters for wood, but on harder materials it can sometimes be an
issue.

I wish I'd got a bigger drill, too - not necessarily a floor-standing[1]
one, but at least with a bit more depth than what I have (I don't
remember the numbers - only that sometimes it's not really quite
enough :-)

[1] the temptation's always there to modify the bench-mounted one that I
have... either extend the pillar, or somehow rig it so I can swing it out
over the edge of the bench.

cheers

Jules

"Jules Richardson" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:00:45 -0400, J O E wrote:

Bought my Harbor Freight drill press 4 or 5 years ago, on sale for
$39.95.

They're $89.95 now, and go on sale periodically for $69.95.

Not a 'precision' machine by any means - spindle bearings allow some
play in the chuck, but it's well suited for the home craftsman's needs.

Yeah, that's what I've found with the cheap ones - there's a bit of slop
in the system which isn't there on the better stuff. I've not found it
really matters for wood, but on harder materials it can sometimes be an
issue.

I wish I'd got a bigger drill, too - not necessarily a floor-standing[1]
one, but at least with a bit more depth than what I have (I don't
remember the numbers - only that sometimes it's not really quite
enough :-)

[1] the temptation's always there to modify the bench-mounted one that I
have... either extend the pillar, or somehow rig it so I can swing it out
over the edge of the bench.

cheers

Jules

I bought a floor standing honking 5 foot plus tall 1/2" chuck with moveable
table and something like 128 speeds. I use it on most of my stuff except
for small things, where I use the small one. I like being able to stand up
there, and have the work at a comfortable height, and also that the bed
moves up and down and tilts. The light is nice, too. It's a Chinese one,
but I paid $100 for it. I didn't use it for years, now, use it mostly.
It's overkill most of the time, but with the Drill Doctor 750, it sure makes
drilling those jobs with lots of holes a lot easier.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Molly Brown wrote:
....

It’s 1 ½” stainless steel plumbing pipe. I will need to tap threads to
the holes that I cut.

Tap threads for what? Nothing terribly precise about a standard
threading hole...the biggest problem will likely be in the facilities
for centering and squareness, etc.

Didn't look; not sure what grades/alloys are most common; would still
say much will depend on what the actual SS is that is being used ("s-s
plumbing pipe") doesn't really say much useful in that regard.

I'd suggest rigging up something similar to the shown jig for drilling
as it's quite easy to drill off-center and stainless will be worse by
far than malleable iron for "walking".

http://www.averytools.com/pc-542-28-center-it-pipe-tube-drill-jig.aspx

Also center drills are designed for the purpose of making the starting
hole for drilling and will be much more accurate than you're likely to
be able to do by hand w/ punch/hammer if, indeed, there's some precision
in location and orientation desired.

And, of course, you'll either want a step drill or drill in a couple of
different steps rather than trying the final diameter in one go using
just a small manual press.

Then, you will need a high quality tap for stainless as it is much more
difficult material than malleable steel...

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Molly Brown wrote:
...

It’s 1 ½” stainless steel plumbing pipe. I will need to tap threads to
the holes that I cut.

Tap threads for what? Nothing terribly precise about a standard threading
hole...the biggest problem will likely be in the facilities for centering
and squareness, etc.

Didn't look; not sure what grades/alloys are most common; would still say
much will depend on what the actual SS is that is being used ("s-s
plumbing pipe") doesn't really say much useful in that regard.

I'd suggest rigging up something similar to the shown jig for drilling as
it's quite easy to drill off-center and stainless will be worse by far
than malleable iron for "walking".

http://www.averytools.com/pc-542-28-center-it-pipe-tube-drill-jig.aspx

Also center drills are designed for the purpose of making the starting
hole for drilling and will be much more accurate than you're likely to be
able to do by hand w/ punch/hammer if, indeed, there's some precision in
location and orientation desired.

And, of course, you'll either want a step drill or drill in a couple of
different steps rather than trying the final diameter in one go using just
a small manual press.

Then, you will need a high quality tap for stainless as it is much more
difficult material than malleable steel...

--

I am glad YOU brought this up. I used to use my hands (bad idea) to hold
things (make that hand, you have to use one hand on the down lever) for
drilling. Then I used clamps, but it is difficult to find them with a deep
enough throat to hold things, and the underside of the table is uneven. So,
I bought a vise for $15 or so at the local cheap Chinese tool shop. It was
one of the best tools I ever bought that I didn't know how much I needed.
Then, I got a little smaller one for smaller stuff.

Unless you have a machinist style machine ( I won't display my ignorance
here by naming some machine that might not be the right one ) it is vital to
get the workpiece held tight to avoid movement, and then even runout will
still happen. And it's good to try some test pieces, even if you use a
piece of steel pipe instead of SS, if it is close to the right size.

Since I got my vises, I have made some special pieces for special use that
hang in back of the drill press. Angle iron makes a remarkable number of
jigs.

It's so much better to get repeatable accurate results.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

On Aug 17, 1:32*am, Mat wrote:
$69 *http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

On Aug 17, 4:18*pm, Niner wrote:
On Aug 17, 1:32*am, Mat wrote:

$69 *http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. *I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. *It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. *If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. *Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. *I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

I'm with the guys above. Bought one ten years ago because it was on
sale. Never regretted it. Not much it can't do (I work with aluminum
as well as wood, though I've drilled steel with it already as well).
It won't hold a mortise jig, which annoyed me at one point (imagine
that... had break out the hand chisel!), and the plate doesn't stay
square when adjusting height which can be annoying when working with
jigs that require multiple drill bits. But both of those can be
gotten by very easily. As far as accuracy, I get about 1/64" play,
depending on the bit and height. Best of all, it fits nicely in my
shop.

John

On 08/17/2010 04:18 PM, Niner wrote:
On Aug 17, 1:32 am, wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

yes, and use a 1/8" pilot hole for larger holes. For really big holes,
use 1/8" and then a larger, intermediate size.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Aug 16, 11:28*pm, Molly Brown wrote:
I took on a job to cut some 5/16” precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I don’t know what HP drill press to get. I
won’t be in any hurry to make the holes and I won’t have to make more
than a few of them so I don’t think the HP of the drill press matters
but I’m not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

Assuming you find the right drill press/whatever, don't even think
about starting the drill and tap job without a T-type tap wrench. Go
to www.use-enco and look at the 325-49280 and similar tap wrenches on
page 110. The $66 may give you sticker shock, but it will perform the
job faster than a Bridgeport J2, even with a Harbor Freight drill
press. If you factor in all the time, wasted work pieces, broken taps
and other problems it is a real bargain. Virtually every journeyman
machinist, tool and die maker will have a set of these in his tool
box. In combination with solid fixturing and clamping, the job will go
very well.
And by the way, any 1/3 to 1/2 HP drill press will do just fine. A
floor model with a hefty column would be better, and higher priced
models usually give you less spindle run out.

Joe

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 21:28:46 -0700 (PDT), Molly Brown
wrote:

I took on a job to cut some 5/16€� precision holes in stainless steel
pipe. I never had to be this precise so I never needed a drill press
before but now I do. I did all the research and understand all that I
need except for one thing. I dont know what HP drill press to get. I
wont be in any hurry to make the holes and I wont have to make more
than a few of them so I dont think the HP of the drill press matters
but Im not sure. Can anyone give me some advise on what size HP to
look for to do what I want? Thank you.

Drilling stainless you want more than enough, ather than almost enough
- because you need to keep the bit cutting. Don't consider easing the
bit through - you'll just end up burning the tip off.
If you are using the aircraft type bits just about any half-inch
capacity press will do the job.

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:05:34 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

wrote:
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:05:34 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

You've got a good point. And it won't drill a 22" hole in granite (as in an
oil well).

Shucks, everything has its limits...

On Aug 17, 9:54*pm, John wrote:
On Aug 17, 4:18*pm, Niner wrote:





On Aug 17, 1:32*am, Mat wrote:

$69 *http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. *I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. *It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. *If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. *Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. *I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

I'm with the guys above. *Bought one ten years ago because it was on
sale. *Never regretted it. *Not much it can't do (I work with aluminum
as well as wood, though I've drilled steel with it already as well).
It won't hold a mortise jig, which annoyed me at one point (imagine
that... had break out the hand chisel!), and the plate doesn't stay
square when adjusting height which can be annoying when working with
jigs that require multiple drill bits. *But both of those can be
gotten by very easily. *As far as accuracy, I get about 1/64" play,
depending on the bit and height. *Best of all, it fits nicely in my
shop.

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

On 8/18/2010 12:50 AM, harry wrote:
On Aug 17, 9:54 pm, wrote:
On Aug 17, 4:18 pm, wrote:





On Aug 17, 1:32 am, wrote:

$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

I'm with the guys above. Bought one ten years ago because it was on
sale. Never regretted it. Not much it can't do (I work with aluminum
as well as wood, though I've drilled steel with it already as well).
It won't hold a mortise jig, which annoyed me at one point (imagine
that... had break out the hand chisel!), and the plate doesn't stay
square when adjusting height which can be annoying when working with
jigs that require multiple drill bits. But both of those can be
gotten by very easily. As far as accuracy, I get about 1/64" play,
depending on the bit and height. Best of all, it fits nicely in my
shop.

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

Hell, I EAT Chinese all the time! *snicker*

TDD

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:23:59 -0500, HeyBub wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:05:34 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

You've got a good point. And it won't drill a 22" hole in granite (as in an
oil well).

Shucks, everything has its limits...

lol, Mine was made in Taiwan as is my 30 year old table saw, quite a bit
bigger than the $49 one (40" vs 23") both rugged as hell. Maybe not
finished up to American standards but I have put thousands of hours on
them with no issues. Anyways, what is NOT made in china these days?

"harry" wrote
Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

I saw a Dualit electric mixer in a store a few weeks ago. Even this iconic
British brand is having its stuff made in China. I guess they have no pride
either.

On Aug 18, 10:52*am, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"harry" wrote

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. *The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

I saw a Dualit electric mixer in a *store a few weeks ago. *Even this iconic
British brand is having its stuff made in China. *I guess they have no pride
either.

Nah. Our stuff is made in Eastern Europe!

On Aug 18, 8:16*am, The Daring Dufas
wrote:
On 8/18/2010 12:50 AM, harry wrote:





On Aug 17, 9:54 pm, *wrote:
On Aug 17, 4:18 pm, *wrote:

On Aug 17, 1:32 am, *wrote:

$69 *http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the
same size. *I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. *It
took a little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. *If
anything, what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill
bit - I got a split point bit (dunno if it was cobalt) and it did a
lot better. *Probably did a single hole in a matter of minutes, so not
like rigging it up and walking away, either.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to
put a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking
before it's started to bite into the metal. *I'm bad about that, but
last time I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Henry

I'm with the guys above. *Bought one ten years ago because it was on
sale. *Never regretted it. *Not much it can't do (I work with aluminum
as well as wood, though I've drilled steel with it already as well).
It won't hold a mortise jig, which annoyed me at one point (imagine
that... had break out the hand chisel!), and the plate doesn't stay
square when adjusting height which can be annoying when working with
jigs that require multiple drill bits. *But both of those can be
gotten by very easily. *As far as accuracy, I get about 1/64" play,
depending on the bit and height. *Best of all, it fits nicely in my
shop.

John- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
* Not very patriotic. *The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

Hell, I EAT Chinese all the time! **snicker*

TDD- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Bit tough I hear. I bet you are some's grandad.

harry wrote:

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

Adam Smith settled this hash in the late 18th century with the publication
of "The Wealth of Nations." In it, he showed that when trade is free and
nations do what they do best, everyone benefits.

You really should keep up.

"harry" wrote
Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

And if you would go through your house and possessions, you would find that
half of the stuff came from third world dirt floor shops or China. Why do
you preach to others like you are 100% American? It is because you are
stupid and hold too high of an opinion of yourself. If you took out all the
Chinese parts from your computer, it would be non-functional. But since I
see you are still trolling, pardon me posting, here, I can see that you opt
to use Chinese goods yourself.

Hypocrite.

Hypocrite troll.

Ho wonder you are in my **** file with all the other ****.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

"HeyBub" wrote

Adam Smith settled this hash in the late 18th century with the publication
of "The Wealth of Nations." In it, he showed that when trade is free and
nations do what they do best, everyone benefits.

You really should keep up.

But that would require effort and intelligence, something he lacks.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:54:14 -0400, clare wrote:
As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

I've said it before on here, but a word of advice - don't buy online, and
shop around at a few stores. It's perhaps not the same at the high end of
the market, but lots of low/mid-range presses seem to use the same motors
and headstock, with the manufacturer doing little more than changing the
case and branding. Price can vary quite a lot, but the bits that are
likely to fail or not do a good job are still the same.

cheers

Jules

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 13:18:44 -0700, Niner wrote:
I've got a similar (although possibly not HF) knockoff drill of the same
size. I've used it to cut 9/16" holes in 1/4" plate steel. It took a
little time and plenty of cutting oil, but it did fine. If anything,
what made the biggest difference was getting a good drill bit

Yes, I think that's the key there (that and adjusting the speed for the
job) - the drill bits make the most difference, and having a good drill
with crappy bits is far worse than having a crappy drill with good bits.

My dad always points out I should use a metal punch of some type to put
a little divot in the metal to help keep the bit from walking before
it's started to bite into the metal. I'm bad about that, but last time
I tried it, it did work pretty well.

Yes, good advice. I'm bad about not doing it either ;-) (for small
diameter holes, inserting the drill bit as far as you can is good too, so
it's less likely to bend and go off-center)

cheers

Jules

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?


If it has tits or wheels, sooner or later, you'll have problems.

Most drill presses are used very infrequently by users to make a true hole
every once in a while. For the medium or heavy user, it is easy to use a
drill press until it starts having issues with wear, age, etc.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Aug 18, 1:37*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
harry wrote:

Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
*Not very patriotic. *The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

Adam Smith settled this hash in the late 18th century with the publication
of "The Wealth of Nations." In it, he showed that when trade is free and
nations do what they do best, everyone benefits.

You really should keep up.

That is assuming all things are equal which they aren't. (Near slave
labout in China) Things go on these days Adam Smith never dream't of.
His theories are ******** anyway. His book was written from the
perspective of an Industrialsed Western world and a slave owning
society and a native workforce on starvation wages.
In any case, he was against monopolies which is where we're heading
today.
And it isn't OUR monopoly.

On Aug 18, 3:28*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"harry" wrote
Amazing how many of you guys go out buying Chinese tools. Built by
virtual slave labour.
Not very patriotic. *The Chinks hit your weak spot right on.
Aquisativeness and money.
No wonder America's f****d.
Your grandad would never have bought Chinese.

And if you would go through your house and possessions, you would find that
half of the stuff came from third world dirt floor shops or China. *Why do
you preach to others like you are 100% American? *It is because you are
stupid and hold too high of an opinion of yourself. *If you took out all the
Chinese parts from your computer, it would be non-functional. *But since I
see you are still trolling, pardon me posting, here, I can see that you opt
to use Chinese goods yourself.

Hypocrite.

Hypocrite troll.

Ho wonder you are in my **** file with all the other ****.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com

That's it. You personify the attitude. Stand by and watch your economy
being destroyed while mouthing your platitudes. Your kids will be
eating grass if not **** because of your greed and aquisitiveness.
And you will live to see it.
The Chinese invented nothing. They have stolen Western technology for
the one purpose of destroying the West. They are succeeding where
military force or the threat of it has failed.
Greedy capitalists aid them by exporting jobs. Your society is
doomed. And probably ours.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:05:34 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

My own floor drill press came with the quill on a Morse taper shaft, but no
facility for a draw bolt. Like yours, the quill would occasionally drop
out. I remedied that by giving the female and male parts a squirt of brake
cleaner to remove the shipping oil and any dust. When reinserted and given
a tap, they never came out accidentally again, though inserting the wedge
and tapping freed them when desired.

Nonny

On 2010-08-18, RES wrote:

My own floor drill press came with the quill on a Morse taper shaft, but no
facility for a draw bolt.

Some tapers are self-locking and once you insert them with a solid tap
from a lead hammer, require the same lead hammer, a flat tapered
drift, and pretty hefty whack to drive them back out. My 3/4" 2 HP
drill press had one and it NEVER dropped its chuck. I forget which
taper, though. Look in the Machinery's Handbook.

nb

"harry" wrote
The Chinese invented nothing. They have stolen Western technology for
the one purpose of destroying the West. They are succeeding where
military force or the threat of it has failed.
Greedy capitalists aid them by exporting jobs. Your society is
doomed. And probably ours.

I heard on the radio this morning. 90% of all engineers graduating these
days are in China. Not a question of if they will surpass us, but when.

On 2010-08-18, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

I heard on the radio this morning. 90% of all engineers graduating these
days are in China. Not a question of if they will surpass us, but when.

They're gonna hafta do something drastic, then. I worked in hi-tech
for a couple decades with techs and engineers from all over the World.
I wasn't too impressed with my Chinese cow orkers. They pick things
up fast and have an amazing capacity to remember and use what they've
learned, but seemed rather limited when it comes to critical thinking,
IOW, they are brilliant at utilizing existing knowledge, but aren't
all that when it comes to adding to the base.

nb

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:23:59 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:05:34 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Mat wrote:
$69 http://www.harborfreight.com/5-speed...ess-38119.html

good reviews. Have one like it for 30+ years no problems

Now only $49.00.

I, too, have one - no complaints.

As for quality, what could go wrong with a drill press?

Lots. The chuck kept falling off mine untill I put it on with
"permanent" Lock-tite.
It's a cheap nasty peice of Chinese trash and the only thing it will
drill a half-inch hole in is basswood or lead.

You've got a good point. And it won't drill a 22" hole in granite (as in an
oil well).

Shucks, everything has its limits...

A drill with press with a half inch chuck should be able to drill 1/2"
aluminum or mild steel without any problems, and up to 2 inches of
hardwood with a spade or auger bit.
My useless press didn't handle 3/8" in mild steel - and before
"gluing" the chuck on, it would come apart drilling 5/15" holes in
6061 aluminum.

The limits were (and still are) too low.