My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

"Uno" wrote in message
...
My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away on
this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with the
rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. I was thinking the bits
that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. Instead of trying to
throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my own
screws. Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno


I'd use 3/16 carbide bit and plastic anchors. I'd also use SS screws. Hold
the non hammer drill real steady on the tile, the glaze is very slippery.
Once through the glaze, use the hammer, but only press lightly so the tile
doesn't chip, and before you even start, do the tile prayer.

Do NOT go into the grout.

I've had good results with carbide tipped bits, meaning that I've not
cracked any tiles.

I start with the smallest carbide drill I can find, which is 1/8", then
enlarge that hole with a 3/16" or 1/4" carbide, depending on the anchor
size I'm using.

Put a piece of masking tape over the hole target - drill through that,
and don't be too aggressive when drilling.

I use plastic anchors - they're very forgiving in this sort of
application, and use stainless steel screws to fasten the brackets.

On Jul 30, 3:17*am, Uno wrote:
My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. *I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. *Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. *Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

How about Velcro or glue it down, a sheet metal screw with phillips
head or one for a socket is better than a wood screw, the right
screwdriver or socket will hold the the screw and no need to predrill
the wood.

On Jul 30, 6:32*am, ransley wrote:
On Jul 30, 3:17*am, Uno wrote:





My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. *I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. *Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. *Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

How about Velcro or glue it down, a sheet metal screw with phillips
head or one for a socket is better than a wood screw, the right
screwdriver or socket will hold the the screw and no need to predrill
the wood.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This response was posted to the other thread about the pencil can, I
dont know how it happened.

Uno wrote:

My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

I've never had any problem hammer drilling tile. I've anchored a few
bath cabinets and a full shower door in tile, in all cases hammer
drilling through the tile with a 1/4" carbide tip bit in my hammer
drill. The key I find is the manually hold the bit in place and start
the drill very slow while it makes it's way through the glaze layer.
Once past the glaze you have a decent divot to keep you centered and you
can take your hand away from the bit and move up to normal speed. I used
normal plastic anchors and screws for these applications, not ones
supplied with the items being mounted, but quality ones from an
electrical supply house. None of the tiles ever cracked.

On Jul 30, 3:17*am, Uno wrote:
My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. *I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. *Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. *Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

On Jul 30, 7:20*am, Bob Villa wrote:
On Jul 30, 3:17*am, Uno wrote:



My client has prospective in-laws coming in on Saturday, and I've got a
hot date by 6 pm Friday at the latest, so I've got to get squared away
on this within 12 hours or so.

I have to drill through bathroom tile so as to be able to fasten one of
those crescent shower curtain deals.

I was thinking I would drill a small pilot hole, then come after with
the rotary drill and a hammer drill bit sans hammer. *I was thinking the
bits that I tend to have around would be perfect forthis, as they would
otherwise be used for tap-cons.

My client has said that there is backerboard behind. *Instead of trying
to throw in an anchor, I would bring on a 3/32, and **** on it, use my
own screws. *Their's aren't even ferromagnetic.

All I gotta do is get two screws fastened level--up and down, one inch
apart, on either side.

How about going into the grout instead?

Anyways, your experience and comments are appreciated.
--
Uno

Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. We have a winner! Wall tile is very soft. Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.

keith wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:

Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. We have a winner! Wall tile is very soft. Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.


Alright, thx all for replies.

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze
3) 1/4" carbide tip with hammer drill sans hammer
4) insert plastic anchor
5) fasten with stainless steel screws
6) prayer of thanksgiving
7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log.
--
Uno

On Jul 30, 3:38*pm, Uno wrote:
keith wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. *We have a winner! *Wall tile is very soft. *Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. *There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.

Alright, thx all for replies.

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze
3) 1/4" carbide tip with hammer drill sans hammer
4) insert plastic anchor
5) fasten with stainless steel screws
6) prayer of thanksgiving
7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log.
--
Uno

"7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log."

umm...errr...nevermind.

"Uno" wrote

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze

#1 is good.

#2 I prefer using an abrasive rather than a punch to remove the glaze. Just
a touch with a grinding/sharpening stone will do and not crack.

On Jul 30, 5:20*am, Bob Villa wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the

Center punch on tile? What could possibly go wrong?

On Jul 30, 2:38*pm, Uno wrote:
keith wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. *We have a winner! *Wall tile is very soft. *Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. *There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.

Alright, thx all for replies.

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze
3) 1/4" carbide tip with hammer drill sans hammer
4) insert plastic anchor
5) fasten with stainless steel screws
6) prayer of thanksgiving
7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log.
--
Uno

Perfect! I have used this method many, many times (except no.7) and
have not broken a tile.

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:31:31 -0700 (PDT), mike
wrote:

On Jul 30, 5:20*am, Bob Villa wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the

Center punch on tile? What could possibly go wrong?

Replace the tile? I've drilled porcelain tile to mount a bi-fold door
pin mount.

Just a variable speed drill, and a good bit. The bit tried to walk and
dance for a moment, but I handled that.

I've _never_ heard of using a ""center punch". Crack!

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:31:31 -0700 (PDT), mike
wrote:

On Jul 30, 5:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
Center punch on tile? What could possibly go wrong?

Replace the tile? I've drilled porcelain tile to mount a bi-fold door
pin mount.

Just a variable speed drill, and a good bit. The bit tried to walk and
dance for a moment, but I handled that.

I've _never_ heard of using a ""center punch". Crack!


Yeah I couldn't hit the tile with the center punch. The carbide tip was
all I needed.

6) There's a lot to be thankful for. A day without disasters.
Friends, family, the enchanting land I live in.

7) Woo-hoo.

See ya
--
Uno

Rodman brand masonry carbide drill. High speed. Yer welcome.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:28:56 -0600, Uno wrote:

the enchanting land I live in

New Mexico?!

Uno wrote:

keith wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:

Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. We have a winner! Wall tile is very soft. Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.

Alright, thx all for replies.

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze
3) 1/4" carbide tip with hammer drill sans hammer
4) insert plastic anchor
5) fasten with stainless steel screws
6) prayer of thanksgiving
7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log.

I'm sure you've already fixed the problem but just for the futu

Don't you people know that there's a special bit to drill tile? Looks
a little like a teardrop on the end of a round shaft. Chuck it in a
battery-powered drill; push against wall at point where you want the
hole (hard); start drill very slowly and it'll cut you hole like
magic. No center punch (good way to ruin tile). Comes in appropriate
sizes to fasten shower and bathroom fittings generally. See HD or
Lowes in the tool department.

On 7/30/2010 5:31 PM, mike wrote:
On Jul 30, 5:20 am, Bob wrote:
Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the

Center punch on tile? What could possibly go wrong?

I've used a small automatic center punch and my Bosch hammer
drill for many years to drill anchor holes in tile walls. The
drill I own has a very high cyclic rate and I've had no problems
with any of the tiles breaking or cracking.

TDD

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 22:43:56 -0400, wrote:

Uno wrote:

keith wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:20 am, Bob Villa wrote:

Use a center punch 1st...it will make a small chip to remove the
glazing. Then a carbide bit will go through like butter.

Bingo. We have a winner! Wall tile is very soft. Nicking the
glazing will stabilize the bit until the hole gets started and then
it'll go right though.
Do *not* hammer drill tile. There is no need and a lot of downside
potential.

Alright, thx all for replies.

My method will be
1) prayer of supplication
2) use center punch to chip the glaze
3) 1/4" carbide tip with hammer drill sans hammer
4) insert plastic anchor
5) fasten with stainless steel screws
6) prayer of thanksgiving
7) hot date with jenny

This will be like falling off a log.

I'm sure you've already fixed the problem but just for the futu

Don't you people know that there's a special bit to drill tile? Looks
a little like a teardrop on the end of a round shaft. Chuck it in a
battery-powered drill; push against wall at point where you want the
hole (hard); start drill very slowly and it'll cut you hole like
magic. No center punch (good way to ruin tile). Comes in appropriate
sizes to fasten shower and bathroom fittings generally. See HD or
Lowes in the tool department.

Special bits aren't needed for wall tile (floor tile is a whole different
kettle). All that's needed is a nick in the glaze. A nick, smaller than the
drill bit, even, isn't going to "ruin" the tile.