I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

On 7/7/2010 11:42 PM Ziggs spake thus:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I like masonite. You can get it in 1/8" or 1/4" thicknesses Almost
Anywhere, possibly even cut to size (for that I'd go to a real lumber
yard instead of the Big Orange Store). Glue it on with ordinary white
glue, using lots of weights (heavy books, bricks, etc.). Should hold up
better than particle board.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 7/7/2010 11:42 PM Ziggs spake thus:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I like masonite. You can get it in 1/8" or 1/4" thicknesses Almost
Anywhere, possibly even cut to size (for that I'd go to a real lumber yard
instead of the Big Orange Store). Glue it on with ordinary white glue,
using lots of weights (heavy books, bricks, etc.). Should hold up better
than particle board.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)


The 1/4" would be a good choice. The 1/8" is very hard to force flat after
the glue is applied.

Colbyt

On Jul 8, 2:42*am, Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. *Any Suggestions? *If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? *Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I just use plywood. Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. After it gets too beat up replace it.

On 7/8/2010 6:13 AM, Colbyt wrote:
"David wrote in message
.com...
On 7/7/2010 11:42 PM Ziggs spake thus:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I like masonite. You can get it in 1/8" or 1/4" thicknesses Almost
Anywhere, possibly even cut to size (for that I'd go to a real lumber yard
instead of the Big Orange Store). Glue it on with ordinary white glue,
using lots of weights (heavy books, bricks, etc.). Should hold up better
than particle board.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)


The 1/4" would be a good choice. The 1/8" is very hard to force flat after
the glue is applied.

Colbyt

I just built workbench in my new house.
I used OSB for the top structure and
then used laminate flooring for the top.
I checked around and bought the
cheapest stuff I could find (special at
Lowe's). The boards were snapped
together, but then glued with liquid
nails to the OSB. An oak nosing
finished the edges. The stuff is pretty
tough, but I'm sure you don't want to
beat it with a hammer; I have a big old
stage counter weight for that purpose.
Check out
http://picasaweb.google.com/actodesc...34300469639906
and the next few pics. BTW, there is
now a vice on that left corner ... too
lazy to take more pics.

On 7/8/2010 5:15 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 8, 2:42 am, wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I just use plywood. Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. After it gets too beat up replace it.

That's what I used when I built my work bench. Same rationale.

Bill

Bill Gill wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have
a smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I just use plywood. Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. After it gets too beat up replace it.

That's what I used when I built my work bench. Same rationale.

Yep, plywood here too. Fastened it on with screws, then brushed on a few
coats of polyurethane to finish the job.

Jon

Ziggs,

One more vote for masonite. You can get it in 2'x4', 4'x4' or 4'x8'
sheets. It has one rough side so I don't even fasten it to my particle
board top.

dss

"Ziggs" wrote in message
...
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I use TEMPERED masonite 1/4 inch smooth on both sides. Mounted with counter
sunk screws. When shows a lot of wear I turn it over and remount. So get
twice the use at one time price. WW

"Ziggs" wrote in message
...
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I bought an old solid core door for $15 from a local door shop. Except for
the hole, which I plugged, it was perfect. Even had hanger hinges.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book

On Jul 8, 8:22*am, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have
a smoother surface. *Any Suggestions? *If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? *Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I just use plywood. *Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. *After it gets too beat up replace it.

That's what I used when I built my work bench. *Same rationale.

Yep, plywood here too. *Fastened it on with screws, then brushed on a few
coats of polyurethane to finish the job.

Jon

Exactly what I did 25 years ago. Sanded the top down once since then
to clean up the appearance and then re-varnished. May have to do it
again in a couple of years.

On Wed, 07 Jul 2010 23:42:48 -0700, Ziggs wrote:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I have
cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)? Nail it
in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I keep thinking about getting hold of a broken chest freezer, purely for
the metal panels that I could use from the lid and front to use as tops
for the workbench. Just one of those jobs that I haven't got around to
yet :-)

"Colbyt" wrote in
:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 7/7/2010 11:42 PM Ziggs spake thus:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have
a smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I like masonite. You can get it in 1/8" or 1/4" thicknesses Almost
Anywhere, possibly even cut to size (for that I'd go to a real lumber
yard instead of the Big Orange Store). Glue it on with ordinary white
glue, using lots of weights (heavy books, bricks, etc.). Should hold
up better than particle board.


--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)


The 1/4" would be a good choice. The 1/8" is very hard to force flat
after the glue is applied.

Colbyt




masonite scratches and then makes lots of dust,and quickly looks like crap.
I'd glue a 1/4" or 3/8" layer of MDF over the old top.
Then seal it with polyurethane.

an aside;I did not know there's a nuclear-resistant version of MDF. Yikes!

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Jul 8, 1:14*pm, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 07 Jul 2010 23:42:48 -0700, Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. *Any Suggestions? *If so, what material should I have
cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)? Nail it
in? *Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I keep thinking about getting hold of a broken chest freezer, purely for
the metal panels that I could use from the lid and front to use as tops
for the workbench. Just one of those jobs that I haven't got around to
yet :-)

After some 35 years recovered top of bench (itself built from scrapped
shipping pallets in the 1970s) with some scrapped 3/8ths plywood.

Then painted it with some leftover paint. Works as well as it ever did.

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
...
On Jul 8, 2:42 am, Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

I just use plywood. Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. After it gets too beat up replace it.

Mine is an 8 foot section of a bowling alley reduced down to about 24" of
width. If it looks bad enough I can just sand it. Haven't really felt the
need the need in the last 20 years.

It was fun to watch when the movers grabbed a hold of it to move.

Colbyt

"Ziggs" wrote

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

If you were happy with the particle board for 15 years, then plywood is
best. Just use nails.

Jon Danniken wrote:
Bill Gill wrote:
jamesgangnc wrote:
Ziggs wrote:
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have
a smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?
I just use plywood. Then I don't wory about acidentally drilling or
cutting into it. After it gets too beat up replace it.
That's what I used when I built my work bench. Same rationale.

Yep, plywood here too. Fastened it on with screws, then brushed on a few
coats of polyurethane to finish the job.

Jon



I've always preferred a 2-layer top, with 2x4 edges and a 'drop in' top
layer (no fasteners needed) that could be flipped over or replaced as
needed. A lip is nice, to keep stuff from rolling onto the floor.

--
aem sends....

Years ago I went to our local Lowes store and purchased one of their counter
tops and used it for a work bench, used 4 X 4s for legs and I love it.
Serving me well, very cleanable...and looks great
"Ziggs" wrote in message
...
I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

In article ,
Ziggs wrote:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

Butcher block is fine stuff for a bench, and stunningly inexpensive for
what you get. McMaster sells it. I've got a half dozen from them; most
are 30" x 120" but I've got a couple of smaller ones also. Rip the
particle board off first.

On Sun, 11 Jul 2010 14:09:16 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Ziggs wrote:

I have a 15 year old particle board workbench. The top is worn and I
would like to put some type of material over the top so that I have a
smoother surface. Any Suggestions? If so, what material should I
have cut to specs and what's the best way to place it (thickness)?
Nail it in? Sand top, apply adhesive, press new top on?

Solid core interior doors make good work bench tops. They're pretty cheap.

Butcher block is fine stuff for a bench, and stunningly inexpensive for
what you get. McMaster sells it. I've got a half dozen from them; most
are 30" x 120" but I've got a couple of smaller ones also. Rip the
particle board off first.

Ikea is a great place to buy butcher block slabs. I picked up a Beach butcher
block top for about half what I could find similar stuff anywhere else. The
stuff is *expensive* to ship, so saved that too. Did have to pay GA sales
tax, though.