OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open.
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid: http://paleo.org

OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light
with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open.
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous
pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the
construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it
has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch
wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?


*Many years ago I house I worked on in Beverly Hills had custom made
skylights installed. The designer specified the glass to be brass wire mesh
reinforced. I don't know who did the fabrication or who manufactured the
glass, but they came out very nice. Of course money was not a concern for
that job. So I would think that you can have whatever you want. Try some
metal fabrication places.

On Sat, 22 May 2010 15:08:32 -0400, Edward Reid
wrote:

OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open.
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?

Edward



Have a look at Solatube®

" The dome is made from high quality acrylic resin that is
specifically formulated for increased impact strength, chemical,
weather resistance and high clarity. For High Velocity Hurricane Zone
areas we have available the Shock Inner Dome for the Brighten Up®
Series. For the SolaMaster® Series we offer a Polycarbonate inner
dome. The tubing is made from puncture proof aluminum sheet with a UV
protective covering."

http://www.solatube.com/residential/...ries/index.php

* * Solatube® eChoice™ Products Eligible for
30% Federal Tax Credit
* Eco-friendly Product
* Patented High Performance Technology
* Cost Effective Way to Brighten Every Room
* Leak Proof Design
* ENERGY STAR® Rated

On Sat, 22 May 2010 13:11:13 -0700, Oren wrote:
http://www.solatube.com/residential/...ries/index.php

Thanks. I should have added that I expect exposed decking and rafters over
the porch, or at least a ceiling directly on the underside of the rafters.
So no need for a tube, though of course I wouldn't mind buying from
Solatube if they have the right product. But I was thinking more like 10 to
20 sq ft of effective skylight, and it looks like the Solatube products are
just over 1 or 2 sq ft, depending on the model.

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid: http://paleo.org

On Sat, 22 May 2010 16:41:39 -0400, Edward Reid
wrote:

On Sat, 22 May 2010 13:11:13 -0700, Oren wrote:
http://www.solatube.com/residential/...ries/index.php

Thanks. I should have added that I expect exposed decking and rafters over
the porch, or at least a ceiling directly on the underside of the rafters.
So no need for a tube, though of course I wouldn't mind buying from
Solatube if they have the right product. But I was thinking more like 10 to
20 sq ft of effective skylight, and it looks like the Solatube products are
just over 1 or 2 sq ft, depending on the model.

Edward

Maybe some product from a company that makes greehouse panels?

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 22 May 2010 16:41:39 -0400, Edward Reid
wrote:

On Sat, 22 May 2010 13:11:13 -0700, Oren wrote:
http://www.solatube.com/residential/...ries/index.php
Thanks. I should have added that I expect exposed decking and rafters over
the porch, or at least a ceiling directly on the underside of the rafters.
So no need for a tube, though of course I wouldn't mind buying from
Solatube if they have the right product. But I was thinking more like 10 to
20 sq ft of effective skylight, and it looks like the Solatube products are
just over 1 or 2 sq ft, depending on the model.

Edward

Maybe some product from a company that makes greehouse panels?

Don't forget Solatubes ain't just tubes. I don't remember if the optics
are at top or bottom, but they pump a lot more light than a simple 12"
pipe would.

But to answer OP's original question- as roof is being redone, frame in
a curb around the opening, and just have the roofers treat it like any
other vertical joint, with flashing folded over top of the curb. If the
weatherstripping for whatever you put up there isn't sitting in standing
in water, it won't have to work very hard.

--
aem sends...

On Sat, 22 May 2010 20:00:25 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

Don't forget Solatubes ain't just tubes. I don't remember if the optics
are at top or bottom, but they pump a lot more light than a simple 12"
pipe would.

Top, I say.

A local fire captain built his house several years ago. He put in 3
Solatubes. Amazing in a long hall, it brought in the light so bright.

He had one in the master BR closet. At least twice I walked out and
found myself trying to find the light switch...laughed at myself.

Even he experienced the brightness ..

wrote in message
...

Ditto the above. I'd had Velux for 15 years that include electric
motors and I have large oak trees that are nearby. Not a single
problem. I'm sure if you Google this group you will find many similar
comments about Velux. I can't recall anyone here complaining about
them.

I think you would be asking for lots of problems trying to make your
own instead of using a proven solution. And I think you are focused
too much on the polycarbonate vs glass issue. The solar tube idea
could be OK, but I would go with the true skylights for the
application as I think they are a lot more visually appealing.

Lexan is a proven solution. What is wrong with using it?

Here is what I would do if you can't find a prefab solution that meet's your
needs.

Talk to your builder and ask him to give you a set of spec's that he would
feel comfortable in installing in your roof.

Now talk to a local metal fabricator and show him the spec's and ask him for
a solution.

Seems to me a skylight is just a window frame that is horizontal, so the
design needs to have provisions to: attach it to the roof,
stay water tight
have provisions to remove and replace the glazing material
resist corrosion.

I suspect a sheet metal shop could cut, fold and weld some stainless steel
up that would do the trick.

What would be really slick is if a "cricket" was included into the design to
deflect the water on the up side of the skylight frame.

The cheapest way to get the plastic sheet would be in regular flat sheets,
but some provision should be made to support the center so the plastic does
not sag over time. On pre fab units they seem to form a bubble shape to
prevent the sag, but if the athletics permit, a support mullion or two that
would allow any ordinary flat piece of plastic or glass to be used as
replacement glazing.

Plastic is great stuff, but over time the UV will kill it, so provisions for
replacement should allow an easy and cheap DIY solution when the need
arises.

Fabing it out of stainless will be more costly than building it out of wood,
but you will never have to paint it or worry about it rotting away.

--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.

"Edward Reid" wrote in message
...
OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light
with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open.
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous
pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the
construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it
has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch
wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid: http://paleo.org

"Edward Reid" wrote in message
...
OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light
with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open.
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous
pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the
construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it
has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch
wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid: http://paleo.org

You've got a special consideration because you're using a metal roof.
Before you get too involved, make sure you see skylights that have been
installed in other, similar roofs, because I think you'll find the
construction is different from what you'd expect.

We also have a metal roof and installed a skylight in the MBR and solatubes
in a couple of other places. The contractor and roofer constructed a metal
box for each that was mounted into the roof, then put the skylight atop the
metal box. The skylight is NOT mounted flush with the rest of the roof.
From the outside it looks like an oversized shoebox has been attached to the
roof, with the skylight atop the shoebox. This wouldn't be attractive if
the roof was visible from the front of the house. But this is a
configuration that the roofer insisted on, and he has a long reputation for
quality. 10 years and five hurricanes, and it's never leaked or been a
problem. The box does tend to collect needles on it's top side when the
cypress lose their leaves in the fall, but I go up a couple of times a year
and blow it clear.

JimR wrote:
(snip)

We also have a metal roof and installed a skylight in the MBR and solatubes
in a couple of other places. The contractor and roofer constructed a metal
box for each that was mounted into the roof, then put the skylight atop the
metal box. The skylight is NOT mounted flush with the rest of the roof.
From the outside it looks like an oversized shoebox has been attached to the
roof, with the skylight atop the shoebox. This wouldn't be attractive if
the roof was visible from the front of the house. But this is a
configuration that the roofer insisted on, and he has a long reputation for
quality. 10 years and five hurricanes, and it's never leaked or been a
problem. The box does tend to collect needles on it's top side when the
cypress lose their leaves in the fall, but I go up a couple of times a year
and blow it clear.



Your roofer did it the correct way- skylights should always be on a box
above the roof deck plane. Only way I have ever seen it done, starting
40+ years ago.

--
aem sends...

On May 23, 10:48*am, "MIB" wrote:
wrote in message

...

Ditto the above. *I'd had Velux for 15 years that include electric
motors and I have large oak trees that are nearby. *Not a single
problem. *I'm sure if you Google this group you will find many similar
comments about Velux. *I can't recall anyone here complaining about
them.

I think you would be asking for lots of problems trying to make your
own instead of using a proven solution. *And I think you are focused
too much on the polycarbonate vs glass issue. *The solar tube idea
could be OK, but I would go with the true skylights for the
application as I think they are a lot more visually appealing.

Lexan is a proven solution. *What is wrong with using it?

Lexan is a material, not a complete solution. It's like saying you
can use glass for a window. But how it's mounted, sealed, made
weatherproof for the particular application is still a major factor in
whether it's a viable solution.

On May 23, 10:41*pm, aemeijers wrote:
JimR wrote:

(snip)



We also have a metal roof and installed a skylight in the MBR and solatubes
in a couple of other places. *The contractor and roofer constructed a metal
box for each that was mounted into the roof, then put the skylight atop the
metal box. *The skylight is NOT mounted flush with the rest of the roof.
From the outside it looks like an oversized shoebox has been attached to the
roof, with the skylight atop the shoebox. *This wouldn't be attractive if
the roof was visible from the front of the house. *But this is a
configuration that the roofer insisted on, and he has a long reputation for
quality. *10 years and five hurricanes, and it's never leaked or been a
problem. *The box does tend to collect needles on it's top side when the
cypress lose their leaves in the fall, but I go up a couple of times a year
and blow it clear.

Your roofer did it the correct way- skylights should always be on a box
above the roof deck plane. Only way I have ever seen it done, starting
40+ years ago.

--
aem sends...

May be true in the case of metal roofs, but that is NOT how you
install most skylights on a standard pitched shingle roof. Velux
skylights get mounted directly to the roof.

On May 22, 3:08*pm, Edward Reid
wrote:
OK, the subject is going to make everyone say "no way". But wait ...

We are having part of our roof reframed because it's a mess, repairing the
rest and putting metal on the whole thing. It's all 3/12 slope. The metal
will be Berridge Zee-lock, which is 24-gauge with a 1" standing seam, 16"
wide panels which will be formed and cut to the specified lengths by a
local company.

The newly framed part is going to cover a small screened porch which
previously had a mostly fiberglass roof (which was part of the problem).
There's heavy shade around it, so there's going to be a lot less light with
the metal roof. So we want to add skylights. Since it's a porch, I don't
need energy saving features like double glass and it doesn't need to open..
I would however prefer polycarbonate glazing -- statistically it may be
rare for a glass skylight to break, but such an event is in my experience,
and there's a large oak tree overhead. This is in north Florida, so no
worry about snow, and although wind is an issue, it's far enough inland
that thunderstorms are a greater concern than hurricanes.

Velux has a choice of sizes, but only glass, and double glass at that.
Others I've found online are glass or acrylic or "fiberglass" of
unspecified plastic composition. Won't be able to check the local
non-big-box stores until next week. The prices for the Velux aren't awful,
but I'm sure I'd be paying a good bit for the double glazing that I don't
need and I wouldn't get polycarb. They do at least offer tempered glass
which is like windshield glass in that it breaks into non-dangerous pieces.
(And I haven't figured out whether I'll need their flashing kit with a
metal roof, or how much that will cost.)

So do I have any options for making it myself? (I refer to myself but it
would actually be a master carpenter working for me doing the construction,
and I could find a local sheet metal shop if needed.) I can of course get
polycarbonate cut locally, so the frame is the biggie. And of course it has
to pass inspection.

And obviously it mustn't leak. Even though some drops on the porch wouldn't
matter, a leak would destroy the integrity of the decking just as quickly
on a porch as elsewhere.

Or should I give up on polycarb and eat the cost of features I don't need?

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid:http://paleo.org

You'll end up spending as much as you would on the velux.

On Sat, 22 May 2010 20:00:25 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 22 May 2010 16:41:39 -0400, Edward Reid
wrote:

On Sat, 22 May 2010 13:11:13 -0700, Oren wrote:
http://www.solatube.com/residential/...ries/index.php
Thanks. I should have added that I expect exposed decking and rafters over
the porch, or at least a ceiling directly on the underside of the rafters.
So no need for a tube, though of course I wouldn't mind buying from
Solatube if they have the right product. But I was thinking more like 10 to
20 sq ft of effective skylight, and it looks like the Solatube products are
just over 1 or 2 sq ft, depending on the model.

Edward

Maybe some product from a company that makes greehouse panels?

Don't forget Solatubes ain't just tubes. I don't remember if the optics
are at top or bottom, but they pump a lot more light than a simple 12"
pipe would.

But to answer OP's original question- as roof is being redone, frame in
a curb around the opening, and just have the roofers treat it like any
other vertical joint, with flashing folded over top of the curb. If the
weatherstripping for whatever you put up there isn't sitting in standing
in water, it won't have to work very hard.


And Solatubes are EXTREMELY pricey, compared to a standard sky-light.

OK, I think everyone's convinced me not to try custom construction --
thanks.

What's the reputation of Sun Tek? I have not yet consulted local dealers,
but I see those as an option on the big box web sites. Somewhat cheaper
than Velux though not dramatically so, actually seem to have more useful
info on their web site. And they offer a number of models in polycarbonate,
as well as tempered glass.

I know that whatever I use, it will have to be curb mounted. AFAIK, this is
required for all skylights on metal roofs.

Solatubes would be great for interior lighting. But no matter what optics
they use, they can't pass through more light than they collect, and the
main models collect from one or two square feet of roof. This is plenty for
inside, but since I'm talking porch, I'm interested in more like 20 square
feet. Velux and Sun Tek both make skylights in nominal 2'x'4 sizes ...
well, two of those would be only about 15 sq ft, that might be enough, or
add a third. (And my roof is mostly shaded.)

I also need to call the fabricator to see what they recommend. The
responders on the forums at metalroofing.com always harp on "consult the
manufacturer".

Thanks,

Edward
--
Art Works by Melynda Reid: http://paleo.org

On Tue, 25 May 2010 12:46:50 -0400, Edward Reid
wrote:

OK, I think everyone's convinced me not to try custom construction --
thanks.

What's the reputation of Sun Tek? I have not yet consulted local dealers,
but I see those as an option on the big box web sites. Somewhat cheaper
than Velux though not dramatically so, actually seem to have more useful
info on their web site. And they offer a number of models in polycarbonate,
as well as tempered glass.

I know that whatever I use, it will have to be curb mounted. AFAIK, this is
required for all skylights on metal roofs.

You KNOW Velux's reputation for quality. You know what you are getting
with Velux. Sun Tek is an unknown. For the small difference in price,
go with what you know. Velux, all the way.

Solatubes would be great for interior lighting. But no matter what optics
they use, they can't pass through more light than they collect, and the
main models collect from one or two square feet of roof. This is plenty for
inside, but since I'm talking porch, I'm interested in more like 20 square
feet. Velux and Sun Tek both make skylights in nominal 2'x'4 sizes ...
well, two of those would be only about 15 sq ft, that might be enough, or
add a third. (And my roof is mostly shaded.)

I also need to call the fabricator to see what they recommend. The
responders on the forums at metalroofing.com always harp on "consult the
manufacturer".

Thanks,

Edward