Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Are proposing to heat the air and push it up through both floor
registers, or move it horizontally sucking air in at one floor
register and pushing it out the other floor register??

On 5/2/2010 11:56 PM, hr(bob) wrote:
On May 2, 10:46 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Are proposing to heat the air and push it up through both floor
registers, or move it horizontally sucking air in at one floor
register and pushing it out the other floor register??

The latter: sucking air in away from the window and pushing it out right
under a window.

On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Did you ever hear of Radiant heating, no fan needed and a warm floor
is great, but there are total output of Btu isssues. A fan is also
going to pull alot of electricity, maybe equal to what the whole
boiler uses now and will be noisy. Cast iron radiators put out alot of
Btus and continue to release heat for hours where any fin tube will
cool off in maybe 10% of the time as a cast iron radiator, net result
you will be cold just from the inbalance you have just entered into
the equation, even if your new "experiment" has the same Btu output. A
radiator in a room releases radiant heat and convective heat, how are
you going to rate and make two different sources equal. Something like
that would need a seperate loop , pump, and thermostat to have any
chance of giving you equal heat. I bet the rating of Btus between cast
iron and any fin tube will also vary as the boiler reaches its
operating temp. Bottom line I think it wont make you happy when its
real cold out, you might get it to work at maybe 40f outside but not
on the coldest days.

On May 2, 11:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

On 5/3/2010 8:06 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.
I wonder about that. Around here, in
NC, most of the builders run a feed duct
right under a kitchen or bathroom vanity
cabinet and let the warm air just fill
the cabinet base. A register is mounted
on the kick plate of the cabinet. I
wondered about fire safety.

On May 3, 9:05*am, Art Todesco wrote:
On 5/3/2010 8:06 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:



On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I wonder about that. *Around here, in
NC, most of the builders run a feed duct
right under a kitchen or bathroom vanity
cabinet and let the warm air just fill
the cabinet base. *A register is mounted
on the kick plate of the cabinet. *I
wondered about fire safety.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the heated air that causes the requirement. It's the fan
motor.

On May 2, 11:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

A small low voltage computer fan could be built right into the
register and powered with a wall wart , cheap and quiet.
Can't speak about code issues.

On May 3, 11:56*am, beecrofter wrote:
On May 2, 11:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:





Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

A small low voltage computer fan could be built right into the
register and powered with a wall wart , cheap and quiet.
Can't speak about code issues.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Any fan built into the house should be enclosed in a fire proof
housing of some sort. A 5 inch computer fan could be adapted to work
but generally your talking about a 1 to 1.5 amps for one of those big
enough. And I'd be tempted to go with two fans of those sort myself.
Either way that's a fairly big wall wart.

On 5/3/2010 10:10 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 3, 9:05 am, Art wrote:
On 5/3/2010 8:06 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I wonder about that. Around here, in
NC, most of the builders run a feed duct
right under a kitchen or bathroom vanity
cabinet and let the warm air just fill
the cabinet base. A register is mounted
on the kick plate of the cabinet. I
wondered about fire safety.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the heated air that causes the requirement. It's the fan
motor.
Thanks, that makes sense and makes me
feel better about that situation.

On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

I forgot to mention we have a room where the radiators were removed
and two fan unit heaters with copper radiators were tied in, it was
junk, when the boiler stopped firirng the heat stopped because the fan
units cooled in 2 minutes but the cast iron radiators in the rest of
the house radiated out heat for hours longer, a few years ago I junked
the fan units and put back in the radiators. Its not going to work
unless you zone it with a pump and its own thermostat, you just cant
mix radiators and get the same output, thats why cast iron that hold
gallons of water and weigh a ton work so well, they have thermal mass
and radiate. www.heatinghelp.com is all boiler pros, post at The
Wall. althvac is all heating Ho`s, a bunch of drunk assholes, post
there for abuse.

On May 3, 1:59*pm, ransley wrote:
On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:





Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

I forgot to mention we have a room where the radiators were removed
and two fan unit heaters with copper radiators were tied in, it was
junk, when the boiler stopped firirng the heat stopped because the fan
units cooled in 2 minutes but the cast iron radiators in the rest of
the house radiated out heat for hours longer, a few years ago I junked
the fan units and put back in the radiators. Its not going to work
unless you zone it with a pump and its own thermostat, you just cant
mix radiators and get the same output, thats why cast iron that hold
gallons of water and weigh a ton work so well, they have thermal mass
and radiate.www.heatinghelp.com* is all boiler pros, post at The
Wall. althvac is all heating Ho`s, a bunch of drunk assholes, post
there for abuse.

The OP states that he is not looking for a radiant heat solution
because of hardwood floors.

What I am wondering, why couldn't the underfloor fin tubing be made of
cast iron and also release heat for hours after the boiler turns off.

On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:06:09 -0700 (PDT), Jennifer Eden
wrote:

On May 3, 1:59*pm, ransley wrote:
On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:





Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

I forgot to mention we have a room where the radiators were removed
and two fan unit heaters with copper radiators were tied in, it was
junk, when the boiler stopped firirng the heat stopped because the fan
units cooled in 2 minutes but the cast iron radiators in the rest of
the house radiated out heat for hours longer, a few years ago I junked
the fan units and put back in the radiators. Its not going to work
unless you zone it with a pump and its own thermostat, you just cant
mix radiators and get the same output, thats why cast iron that hold
gallons of water and weigh a ton work so well, they have thermal mass
and radiate.www.heatinghelp.com* is all boiler pros, post at The
Wall. althvac is all heating Ho`s, a bunch of drunk assholes, post
there for abuse.

The OP states that he is not looking for a radiant heat solution
because of hardwood floors.

What I am wondering, why couldn't the underfloor fin tubing be made of
cast iron and also release heat for hours after the boiler turns off.

Because it'll also take hours to release heat when the heat comes on. Such a
delay is very difficult (or impossible) to regulate and doesn't respond to
changes well. TANSTAAFL

Jennifer Eden wrote:
On May 3, 1:59 pm, ransley wrote:
On May 2, 10:46 pm, Sam Takoy wrote:





Hi,
I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.
Here's how I would like to heat it?
Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.
My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.
Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?
Thanks in advance,
Sam
I forgot to mention we have a room where the radiators were removed
and two fan unit heaters with copper radiators were tied in, it was
junk, when the boiler stopped firirng the heat stopped because the fan
units cooled in 2 minutes but the cast iron radiators in the rest of
the house radiated out heat for hours longer, a few years ago I junked
the fan units and put back in the radiators. Its not going to work
unless you zone it with a pump and its own thermostat, you just cant
mix radiators and get the same output, thats why cast iron that hold
gallons of water and weigh a ton work so well, they have thermal mass
and radiate.www.heatinghelp.com is all boiler pros, post at The
Wall. althvac is all heating Ho`s, a bunch of drunk assholes, post
there for abuse.

The OP states that he is not looking for a radiant heat solution
because of hardwood floors.

What I am wondering, why couldn't the underfloor fin tubing be made of
cast iron and also release heat for hours after the boiler turns off.

How strong is the ceiling? I have seen cast radiators hung from above.
May have to go to a salvage place to find one, these were all installs
from 70-100 years ago.

--
aem sends...

On May 3, 10:06*pm, Jennifer Eden
wrote:
On May 3, 1:59*pm, ransley wrote:





On May 2, 10:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

I forgot to mention we have a room where the radiators were removed
and two fan unit heaters with copper radiators were tied in, it was
junk, when the boiler stopped firirng the heat stopped because the fan
units cooled in 2 minutes but the cast iron radiators in the rest of
the house radiated out heat for hours longer, a few years ago I junked
the fan units and put back in the radiators. Its not going to work
unless you zone it with a pump and its own thermostat, you just cant
mix radiators and get the same output, thats why cast iron that hold
gallons of water and weigh a ton work so well, they have thermal mass
and radiate.www.heatinghelp.com*is all boiler pros, post at The
Wall. althvac is all heating Ho`s, a bunch of drunk assholes, post
there for abuse.

The OP states that he is not looking for a radiant heat solution
because of hardwood floors.

What I am wondering, why couldn't the underfloor fin tubing be made of
cast iron and also release heat for hours after the boiler turns off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It could but he will need a pro to do the calculations on released
heat and system designs, I think to do it right will be very
expensive, well all think its so simple to change heating systems, but
these systems were designed over years by the smartest engineers of
their days and by years of trial and error. What he proposes even
takes nothing of the original design charicteristics into account,
even something so simple as the % of radiant vs convective heat a
radiator outputs, a radiator manufacturer would be a start. He will be
heating the floor and area below, whether he likes it or not, and this
loss is important. Plus running a fan might cost him 30 a month, more
then his boiler now consumes, but I think it needs its own powered
loop.

In article
,
jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 2, 11:46*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?

In article ,
Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?

Guilty of careless reading, missed the hardwood floor part. Google
returned some sources for finned tubing, have you called any of them?

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:
On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:





In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

On May 5, 12:59*am, Sam Takoy wrote:
On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:





In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Some baseboard units have long finned tubing in them. You could buy
and/or slavage one of those and remove it. I still vote for an auto
heater core myself. You might be able to adapt a section of an ac
evaporator as well. Some outside ac units use a coil of aluminum
tubing with fins on it. Just some thoughts on where you might
scavenge something.

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:
On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:



On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.

On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:
On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:





On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.

On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:



On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.

On May 5, 9:48*am, keith wrote:
On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal.. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. *Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.

Not to mention that all of the electricity the motor uses gets
converted to heat, which is wanted in this application.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd still want a way to turn the fan on and off. Even if it is not
thermostatically controlled.

On May 5, 12:01*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 5, 9:48*am, keith wrote:



On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. *Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.

Not to mention that all of the electricity the motor uses gets
converted to heat, which is wanted in this application.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd still want a way to turn the fan on and off. *Even if it is not
thermostatically controlled.

Sure, but the power required to run the fan is not "wasted".

On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:





On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.

On May 5, 6:29*pm, ransley wrote:
On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal.. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. *Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I removed two forced air HW supliment heaters, they pulled im sure
more than 200 on high, a 20w fan wont do diddly on a heating system.
The real point though is, its just another way to waste electricity
when there are non fan options- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Are you sure the 200 watts wasn't to heat the water itself????

On May 6, 9:33*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On May 5, 6:29*pm, ransley wrote:





On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. *Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I removed two forced air HW supliment heaters, they pulled im sure
more than 200 on high, a 20w fan wont do diddly on a heating system.
The real point though is, its just another way to waste electricity
when there are non fan options- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Are you sure the 200 watts wasn't to heat the water itself????- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That statement shows just how little you know.