On May 5, 12:01*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 5, 9:48*am, keith wrote:



On May 5, 8:00*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 5, 8:50*am, keith wrote:

On May 5, 6:22*am, ransley wrote:

On May 4, 11:59*pm, Sam Takoy wrote:

On 5/4/2010 9:43 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
* *wrote:

On May 2, 11:46 pm, Sam *wrote:
Hi,

I have a very small room on the first floor and the hot water radiator
takes way too much space. I'm not considering a baseboard.

Here's how I would like to heat it?

Place fin tubing between the joists in the basement. Insulate the
subflooring to protect the hardwood floors (and I am not looking for a
warm floor). Install two registers through the floor at either end of
the way between the joists. Install a slow rotating fan somewhere along
the bay. Box the whole thing in.

My idea is that the air will get heated by the fin tubing and enter the
room.

Would something like this work?
Where does one buy fin tubing?

Thanks in advance,

Sam

To meet fire safety code you will need to box it in with metal. *And
you will need to figure out how to have access it all for repair/
replacement purposes. *If you really want to make a small forced air
heat exchanger try the junk yard for an automotive heat exchanger.
They tend to be about the size you'd be looking for. *You need your
fan to be more that slow moving. *And you need to work a thermostat
control into it as well.

Or install an in floor radiant heating system instead.

I vote for the radiant, also. You've got the hot water right there
already.

Hi, OP here.

I am going to disagree with everybody hoping to learn something in the
process.

First, forget radiant heat - my hardwood floors would be forever
damaged. That was pretty much a consensus.

Second, I hear these points about a professional making calculations and
I don't buy them. Whatever I had before (a radiator), I can put triple
the water volume and triple the surface area under the floor and if it's
too much heat, I'll just turn a valve down a little bit. If it's not
enough, I'll double up.

Third, a fan costing me $30 month? Give me a break. Hot air wants to go
up anyway. My little fan will only be there to keep the air moving a
little better. I probably don't even need it. I've done enough
flow-by-heating experiments to know that it'll work.

Thanks for pointing out the code issue with the fan.

Well, in any case, even if everyone disagrees with me that this solution
will work, can anyone recommend a place to buy fin tubing?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Give your self a break, a 200w fan running 24x7 which is what you will
do in running your hack set up on the coldest month would cost me 35 $
a month, add in a seperate 140 watt pump and it would be 50$ in
january. Think about the coldest month of the year whaen its not
heating you and you are trying to make it give you heat.

A 200W fan motor would be about 1/3HP. *That's a hell of a fan just to
move a *little* air.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yea, I don't know where the 200watt fan came into the picture. *Those
computer muffin fans are usually in the 10 to 20 watt range.

Not to mention that all of the electricity the motor uses gets
converted to heat, which is wanted in this application.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd still want a way to turn the fan on and off. *Even if it is not
thermostatically controlled.

Sure, but the power required to run the fan is not "wasted".