I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed.

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely?

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

"Observer" wrote in message
...
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed.

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely?

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

There is a special utility knife like tool that scores Lexan and acrylic
panels pretty well. It is actually more like a glass cutter than a utility
knife. I think it has a carbide blade. I have seen them used but do not
own one.

The plastic in the diffuser lenses is a slightly different critter but I bet
the tool would do a better job than a utility knife.

They may even sell them at HD since they sell acrylic panels.

On Apr 30, 2:43*pm, "Observer" wrote:
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. *I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. *Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. *I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. *I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. *The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed. *

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? *I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. * Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely? *

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? *Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Most acrylics cut just fine on a table saw. I've used my saw for
acrylic window panels, and many other items. A sharp blade and easy
cutting speed will work just fine. Using masking tape to protect
visible surfaces from tool scratches is a good idea. The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Joe

Observer wrote:
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed.

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely?

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

I use a tool like the one on this webpage:

http://www.rplastics.com/plastic-cutter-ks1.html

TDD

"Observer" wrote in message
...
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed.

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely?

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

In a business I own and operate I use plexiglass all the time. I treat it
like the wood I use to manufacture my product. I purchase 24x36 inch sheets
locally and cut out 3x5 inch pieces on my table saw. These small pieces are
then run through my shaper to round over the edges slightly. Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works just
fine for me.

Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

"Bob Villa" wrote in message
...
Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

Sanding the rounded edge leaves it cloudy looking, even final sanding with
#600 wet or dry. A quick pass along the edge with the propane torch
slightly melts the edge leaving it transparent again.

On May 1, 7:40*am, "Jerry V" wrote:
"Bob Villa" wrote in message

...

Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

Sanding the rounded edge leaves it cloudy looking, even final sanding with
#600 wet or dry. *A quick pass along the edge with the propane torch
slightly melts the edge leaving it transparent again.

So...this is better/faster/safer than acetone? (You didn't comment)

bob

"Bob Villa" wrote in message
...
On May 1, 7:40 am, "Jerry V" wrote:
"Bob Villa" wrote in message

...

Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

Sanding the rounded edge leaves it cloudy looking, even final sanding with
#600 wet or dry. A quick pass along the edge with the propane torch
slightly melts the edge leaving it transparent again.

So...this is better/faster/safer than acetone? (You didn't comment)

bob

Never tried acetone but I will. Torch takes about 15 seconds to go around
all the edges on one piece.

Observer wrote:
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed.

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely?


A mitre saw would probably be the fastest way to get a clean square cut. Power
or hand, maybe with a block of wood under one side to hold it in shape.

On May 1, 10:03*am, "Jerry V" wrote:
"Bob Villa" wrote in message

...
On May 1, 7:40 am, "Jerry V" wrote:



"Bob Villa" wrote in message

....

Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

Sanding the rounded edge leaves it cloudy looking, even final sanding with
#600 wet or dry. A quick pass along the edge with the propane torch
slightly melts the edge leaving it transparent again.

So...this is better/faster/safer than acetone? *(You didn't comment)

bob

Never tried acetone but I will. *Torch takes about 15 seconds to go around
all the edges on one piece.

Sounds like a torch is faster!

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Lowes

On Apr 30, 3:43*pm, "Observer" wrote:
So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? *I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. * Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely? *

If you don't know what a band saw, or the ambition to perform a simple
google search to learn what one is, is then you have no business even
asking this question. Hire a professional.

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? *Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Local hardware store. Glass shop.

Cost? I dunno. How about you go interact with other real live humans
face-to-face and ASK?

On Apr 30, 3:43*pm, "Observer" wrote:
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. *I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. *Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. *I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. *I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. *The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed. *

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? *I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. * Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely? *

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? *Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Just go to HD or Lowes and buy a plexiglass cutter. About $3.00.

Something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-1170.../dp/B000BZZ1D0

Score it a few times (even to the point when the tip of the cutter
starts to go all the way through if you want too) and then break it
over a table edge right at the score (side not scored against the
table edge)

On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

On Apr 30, 7:09*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 30, 3:43*pm, "Observer" wrote:



I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. *I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. *Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. *I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. *I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. *The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed. *

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? *I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. * Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely? *

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? *Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Would the infamous $35 Harbor Freight Multi-Tool handle the job?

NO.

On Apr 30, 8:11*pm, aemeijers wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Apr 30, 3:43 pm, "Observer" wrote:
I want to get opinions about how to cut plastic the easiest best way
vs. what I already did. *I had 2 kitchen fluorescent lights that had
custom sized plastic covers or lenses over them. *Lets say for now
they each were 18" by 36" long. *I don't remember the exact
measurements right now. *I had to replace the original ones so I went
to Home Depot and bought 2 new plastic ones but they had to be cut to
size. *The store wouldn't do it so I had to lay it on the floor at
home and using a straight edge score the plastic many times with a
sheet rock knife (1 hour work for each plastic) till the discarded
piece would break off without cracking off and which might crack into
the piece I needed. *

So for a home diy, is there a better (easier) way to do this? *I read
someone who had worked in a glass shop suggested a band saw but I
don't know what that is nor want to spend a lot. * Any other
suggestions how to cut plastic safely? *

And other than Home Depot, is there other places to buy plastic and
perhaps have them cut it? *Any idea what the cost is to cut it?

Would the infamous $35 Harbor Freight Multi-Tool handle the job?

I'd clamp it between two pieces of 1x4 to reduce chattering and
blowouts, score the smooth side, and cut it with a saber saw and a
fine-tooth blade. Pull it out every few inches to cool, so the blade
doesn't get hot enough to melt the plastic and gum up. A helper with a
vac hose right there will help keep the chips down. I presume the edge
is held by the trim on the light, so the world will not end if the edge
is not perfect?

Any full-line window glass or RV repair company, or even a good
traditional hardware store, should be able to cut plastic to size for
you, if they carry the style you want. Most won't cut carried-in
material, in case they screw up. Most big cities have at least one
supply house that will sell plastic in small retail quantities, but
probably do not cut to size. Some places that sell plexi 'safety
glazing' also sell the frosted and lensed styles, and they usually have
that fancy machine (a first cousin to a picture matte cutter) that can
zip out the correct size in seconds.

--
aem sends...

Some of you are making this out to be MUCH harder than it is.

On May 1, 8:40*am, "Jerry V" wrote:
"Bob Villa" wrote in message

...

Jerry V wrote
Sandpaper and
a propane torch are then used to polish off the rounded edge. Works
just
fine for me.

What does the torch accomplish? (I have heard of acetone to soften and
polish.)

bob

Sanding the rounded edge leaves it cloudy looking, even final sanding with
#600 wet or dry.

Not if you use a vertical wet belt sander

Any other suggestions how to cut plastic safely?

If you have an electric soldering gun..the "gun" style with the
interchangeable "tips"..

There is a tip made for this purpose..its flat in the same aspect as the
length of the gun. Tip Looks like a very small, flattened "spoon".like l
when seen from the end.
In the gun, this heats up and you use the edge to slice/melt its way thru
the plastic. Search Weller soldering gun and you should see it on their
site.

On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

On 2010-05-04, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

What sort of blade? Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

We used to cut a lot of plexiglass and machine it, also. Kerosene
makes a great lubricant for course tooth band or jig saws. Slow it
down the cutting speed and keep it wet.

nb

On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together. Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

On May 3, 9:14*pm, notbob wrote:
On 2010-05-04, wrote:



What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

We used to cut a lot of plexiglass and machine it, also. *Kerosene
makes a great lubricant for course tooth band or jig saws. *Slow it
down the cutting speed and keep it wet. *

nb

No, just use making tape as I just described.

On May 3, 9:25*pm, Ron wrote:
On May 3, 9:14*pm, notbob wrote:

On 2010-05-04, wrote:

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

We used to cut a lot of plexiglass and machine it, also. *Kerosene
makes a great lubricant for course tooth band or jig saws. *Slow it
down the cutting speed and keep it wet. *

nb

No, just use making tape as I just described.

BTW, the only time I ever used any kind of liquid on plexi, was when I
was drilling large holes through plexi. The liquid used was a tiny bit
of antifreeze mixed with water surronded by a dam and using a
professional tripod drill made for cutting holes in glass. Like this
one.

http://beckerindustries1.com/images/...l_press_lg.jpg

On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

AFAIK, it was plexi.

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together.

That's one of the problems I've had; plexi melting gumming up the blade. It's
all down hill from there.

Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

You mentioned a circular saw. That's what got me interested.

Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32 pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

Aren't most diffuser panels for lights styrene based, not acrylic or plexi?

--
aem sends...

On May 3, 11:05*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

AFAIK, it was plexi.

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together.

That's one of the problems I've had; plexi melting gumming up the blade. *It's
all down hill from there.

Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

You mentioned a circular saw. *That's what got me interested.

Circular saw for making STRAIGHT cuts on Lexan only. It will not melt
back together.

On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:41:21 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

On May 3, 11:05*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

AFAIK, it was plexi.

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together.

That's one of the problems I've had; plexi melting gumming up the blade. *It's
all down hill from there.

Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

You mentioned a circular saw. *That's what got me interested.

Circular saw for making STRAIGHT cuts on Lexan only. It will not melt
back together.

I understand what you said, I asked about what sort of blade you used. When I
tried it I had problems with the edges splintering or shattering. If a
circular saw will work, a table saw ought to, as well (given the right blade).

On May 3, 11:23*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32 pm, Joe wrote:

* The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

Aren't most diffuser panels for lights styrene based, not acrylic or plexi?

We called it "light fixture material".

It is a different kind of "plastic" (not sure what), plus it's only
1/16" of an inch thick. The older stuff was a lot more brittle and
harder to cut than the newer stuff. Even after repeated scoring and
then snapping, sometimes the older LFM it wouldn't break correctly.

The newer LFM is more "rubbery". You can bend it over a lot more and
it won't break/snap like the older stuff.

Still, the quickest and easiest way to cut it, is by scoring it with a
plexi cutter and snapping / breaking it the on the edge of a table.

On May 3, 11:44*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:41:21 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 11:05*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.

On May 4, 4:27*am, Ron wrote:
On May 3, 11:44*pm, "



wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 20:41:21 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 11:05*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

AFAIK, it was plexi.

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together.

That's one of the problems I've had; plexi melting gumming up the blade. *It's
all down hill from there.

Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

You mentioned a circular saw. *That's what got me interested.

Circular saw for making STRAIGHT cuts on Lexan only. It will not melt
back together.

I understand what you said, I asked about what sort of blade you used. *When I
tried it I had problems with the edges splintering or shattering. *If a
circular saw will work, a table saw ought to, as well (given the right blade).

For *Lexan* you can pretty much use whatever blade or saw that you
have. It will cut straight through w/o melting or shattering /
splintering / breaking. Lexan is pretty much indestructible.

Plexi is a totally different animal. You have to take your time and
use the tips that I mentioned.

I think you are confusing Plexiglas with Lexan.

On 2010-05-04, Ron wrote:

No, just use making tape as I just described.

That may work for plexi 1/4", but is useless when sawing plexi 1".


BTW, the only time I ever used any kind of liquid on plexi, was when I
was drilling large holes through plexi. The liquid used was a tiny bit
of antifreeze mixed with water surronded by a dam and using a
professional tripod drill made for cutting holes in glass. Like this
one.

http://beckerindustries1.com/images/...l_press_lg.jpg

You can use a lot of different liquids, including water and alcohol,
as long as it doesn't melt the plexi. We used kerosene or stodard's
solvent cuz it was handy and didn't react with the plastic. NO
ACETONE!!

TIP: the proper way to drill plexi is with a twist drill whose cutting
edges has been "broken" or dulled by grinding, typically just a
"touch" to the grinder at about 45 deg to the cutting edges. This
is the same for brass and bronze. We kept whole separate sets of
"broken" drill bits for just this purpose. It prevents grabbing and
shattering of the material. With broken twist drills, we routinely
drilled holes as large as 1" dia in 1-1/2" thick plexi. Natch, this
was with radial drill presses w/ vari-drives that could get down to
10 rpm and after drilling a pilot hole.

nb

Ron wrote:
On May 3, 9:25 pm, Ron wrote:
On May 3, 9:14 pm, notbob wrote:

On 2010-05-04, wrote:
What sort of blade? Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).
We used to cut a lot of plexiglass and machine it, also. Kerosene
makes a great lubricant for course tooth band or jig saws. Slow it
down the cutting speed and keep it wet.
nb
No, just use making tape as I just described.

BTW, the only time I ever used any kind of liquid on plexi, was when I
was drilling large holes through plexi. The liquid used was a tiny bit
of antifreeze mixed with water surronded by a dam and using a
professional tripod drill made for cutting holes in glass. Like this
one.

http://beckerindustries1.com/images/...l_press_lg.jpg

I used to work with a fair amount of plexi glass and I purposely melted
the holes through it by putting the drill in reverse on high speed. It
made a little mess, but nothing a few seconds with a file didn't fix.
Then when Lexan came out, well it was hard to screw it up. Too bad it
scratches so easy.

Ron wrote:

You're talking about plexi, right?

Speaking of "plexiglass", I needed some a while ago and was at a Lows.
I asked where the "plastic" is and what thicknesses it comes in and I
lost them. The word "Plexiglass" just didn't come to mind. I started
to describe it and told them it could be used for windows, and they
thought I wanted to cover my windows with thin plastic sheets for the
winter. Eventually we were on the same track and I got my little piece
cut. After all that, I don't think it was even "plexiglass" name brand,
but that was the only word they knew.

On May 4, 9:48*am, notbob wrote:
On 2010-05-04, Ron wrote:

No, just use making tape as I just described.

That may work for plexi 1/4", but is useless when sawing plexi 1".

BTW, the only time I ever used any kind of liquid on plexi, was when I
was drilling large holes through plexi. The liquid used was a tiny bit
of antifreeze mixed with water surronded by a dam and using a
professional tripod drill made for cutting holes in glass. Like this
one.

http://beckerindustries1.com/images/...l_press_lg.jpg

You can use a lot of different liquids, including water and alcohol,
as long as it doesn't melt the plexi. *We used kerosene or stodard's
solvent cuz it was handy and didn't react with the plastic. *NO
ACETONE!!

TIP: the proper way to drill plexi is with a twist drill whose cutting
edges has been "broken" or dulled by grinding, typically just a
"touch" to the grinder at about 45 deg to the cutting edges. *This
is the same for brass and bronze. *We kept whole separate sets of
"broken" drill bits for just this purpose. *It prevents grabbing and
shattering of the material. *With broken twist drills, we routinely
drilled holes as large as 1" dia in 1-1/2" thick plexi. *Natch, this
was with radial drill presses w/ vari-drives that could get down to
10 rpm and after drilling a pilot hole.

nb

The "proper way" according to who? I've drilled hundreds of holes in
plexi using bits made for glass w/o any problems.. Like these

http://www.qfonic.com/images/product...et/image01.jpg

I've drilled holes in plexi using masonry bits which also works well.

Hell, I've drilled plexi with brand new twist bits w/o having a
problem, but of course I have a lot of experience.

I do agree that you can use a dulled twist bit, but I wouldn't call it
the "proper way".

And what about when you have to drill larger holes? I know no easier
way than what I described above.