On May 3, 11:05*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 18:23:38 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On May 3, 8:17*pm, "
wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 13:19:28 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:
On Apr 30, 6:32*pm, Joe wrote:

The guy who
originally proposed that 'score and break' technique is some sort of
masochist. Plastic shops I have seen just don't do that.

Gee, that's funny...I was in the glass business for over 22 yrs and
that was the only way we cut plexiglass unless it was a pattern cut.
Used a circular saw for 1/4" or thicker Lexan.

What sort of blade? *Every time I've tried it (not many because it doesn't
work ;-) I either melt the edge (and gum up the blade) or it shatters (and
tries to kill me).

You're talking about plexi, right?

AFAIK, it was plexi.

When we pattern cut plexi we used a jigsaw with a medium course blade.
Trace the pattern on the plexi (leave paper plastic on the plexi) with
a black Sharpie and then cover the path to be cut with regular masking
tape The Sharpie mark will show through the masking tape. The masking
tape will keep the plexi from melting itself back together.

That's one of the problems I've had; plexi melting gumming up the blade. *It's
all down hill from there.

Cut
slowly! You might even want to consider using a fine course blade. If
you don't cut it slowly you could end up with small "runs" around what
you just cut. Also keep the part you are cutting close to the table /
workbench edge so it doesn't flap / vibrate.

You mentioned a circular saw. *That's what got me interested.

Circular saw for making STRAIGHT cuts on Lexan only. It will not melt
back together.