I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well.

Why? Just wondering. It seems to me there are more downsides to
metal than upsides for interior use.

It is noisy, cold/hot, and difficult to paint once it get grungy. It
isn't as strong as plywood to hold shelves & whatnot, and it doesn't
have a fire rating like sheetrock. And unless you're getting it for
free, I don't think it is less expensive than wood or sheetrock.

-snip-
Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Why?

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well.

Why? Just wondering. It seems to me there are more downsides to
metal than upsides for interior use.

It is noisy, cold/hot, and difficult to paint once it get grungy. It
isn't as strong as plywood to hold shelves & whatnot, and it doesn't
have a fire rating like sheetrock. And unless you're getting it for
free, I don't think it is less expensive than wood or sheetrock.

-snip-
Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Why?

Agree w/ Jim on the (mostly) disadvantages as interior shop wall, just
add that typical metal-hanging would be to have horizontal purlins for
the metal...

--

On Apr 27, 8:50*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
stryped wrote:
I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well.

Why? * *Just wondering. * It seems to me there are more downsides to
metal than upsides for interior use.

It is noisy, cold/hot, and difficult to paint once it get grungy. It
isn't as strong as plywood to hold shelves & whatnot, and it doesn't
have a fire rating like sheetrock. * *And unless you're getting it for
free, I don't think it is less expensive than wood or sheetrock.

-snip-

Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Why?

Jim

Sheet rock I have to mudd and tape. OSB is ugly and in my area has
gone up to 12 bucks a sheet. I thought metal might look nice. White
walls with a tan "splashguard" on the bottom about 3 feet up. Tan
epoxy floor. You think I wont like it? Can you not just pressure wash
the walls?

My thinking is I though the sheets were 3 ffet wide. Wouldnt that put
the ends between studs? Wouldnt that make the ends kind of floppy?

stryped wrote:

-snip-

Sheet rock I have to mudd and tape. OSB is ugly and in my area has
gone up to 12 bucks a sheet. I thought metal might look nice.

Different strokes, I guess. I'd prefer unmudded sheetrock or 5/8ths
plywood or exposed studs to metal. But I doubt I'll ever see your
shop.

-snip-
Can you not just pressure wash the walls?

You can in *your* shop.

My thinking is I though the sheets were 3 ffet wide. Wouldnt that put
the ends between studs? Wouldnt that make the ends kind of floppy?

That second 'why' was 'why do you have to run it vertically?'

Jim

On Apr 27, 9:21*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
stryped wrote:

-snip-



Sheet rock I have to mudd and tape. OSB is ugly and in my area has
gone up to 12 bucks a sheet. I thought metal might look nice.

Different strokes, I guess. *I'd prefer unmudded sheetrock or 5/8ths
plywood or exposed studs to metal. * But I doubt I'll ever see your
shop.

-snip-

Can you not just pressure wash the walls?

You can in *your* shop.



My thinking is I though the sheets were 3 ffet wide. Wouldnt that put
the ends between studs? Wouldnt that make the ends kind of floppy?

That second 'why' was 'why do you have to run it vertically?'

Jim

I have never seen it run horizontally inside or outside around here.
Maybe I should sheetrock. I want it to look good but I have to be able
to do this myself. I would like to be able to wash a car in there
without worryin gabout getting walls wet.

I guess I could but the bullet and buy 1x4 purlins. I am assuming I
dont need any of the ceiling and can nail them to my trusses 4 or so
feet apart.

On Apr 27, 8:30*am, stryped wrote:
I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be
a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 8:30 am, stryped wrote:
I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be
a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.

Joe


Sheetrock is about the cheapest and easiest way to go..Don't be scared of
mudding it..A garage is a PERFECT place to learn...Why in the world would
you want to wash cars in you garage with all the problems that entails such
as MOLD ?? Unless you have built it like a car wash with severe slop to a
center drain , in which case you should get those vinyl panels you see at
the car wash for the ceiling and walls...VERY pricey...

On Apr 27, 3:43*pm, "benick" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

...
On Apr 27, 8:30 am, stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be
a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.

Joe

Sheetrock is about the cheapest and easiest way to go..Don't be scared of
mudding it..A garage is a PERFECT place to learn...Why in the world would
you want to wash cars in you garage with all the problems that entails such
as MOLD ?? Unless you have built it like a car wash with severe slop to a
center drain , in which case you should get those vinyl panels you see at
the car wash for the ceiling and walls...VERY pricey...

I had a drain put in. It would just be nice to be able to do. Not that
I would do it all the time. I am waffeling between drywall and metal.
I have to do it all myself and my walls are 10 feet tall and the
building 30x30. White paint seems to show up bad mud job in a hurry!

I have to put metal in the ceiling. My trusses are 4 foot on center. I
dont know of any other material that will work and look good.

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Apr 27, 3:43 pm, "benick" wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

...
On Apr 27, 8:30 am, stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be
a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.

Joe

Sheetrock is about the cheapest and easiest way to go..Don't be scared of
mudding it..A garage is a PERFECT place to learn...Why in the world would
you want to wash cars in you garage with all the problems that entails
such
as MOLD ?? Unless you have built it like a car wash with severe slop to a
center drain , in which case you should get those vinyl panels you see at
the car wash for the ceiling and walls...VERY pricey...

I had a drain put in. It would just be nice to be able to do. Not that
I would do it all the time. I am waffeling between drywall and metal.
I have to do it all myself and my walls are 10 feet tall and the
building 30x30. White paint seems to show up bad mud job in a hurry!

I have to put metal in the ceiling. My trusses are 4 foot on center. I
dont know of any other material that will work and look good.


Just "having" a drain to carry away snow melting or water dripping off the
car might not be much use for a car wash unless the slab is all pitched to
the center..If not you could have standing water against a wall or
elsewhere....The drain may not handle the volume of water if not designed
for that or freezes in winter..I would wash it outside and quickly drive it
inside to towel it off and the rest.....You could drywall the ceiling but
you would need to strap the ceiling with 2X4's , 2 foot on center...You will
probably have to do that even if you use metal...Atleast I would..By the
time you get all your stuff in there you won't see much of the walls
anyway...To do it in drywall the materials would cost about 600.00..(20 4X12
for the ceiling and 20 54 inch X 12 foot sheetrock for the walls , 5 pails
of mud , 5 rolls tape 3 pounds of screws) ...Labor if you subbed it out
would be about 800-1000 bucks depending on area.Half that if you rent a
drywall lift and hang the rock yourself and just sub out the taping..Grand
total of about 1500 bucks (1000 bucks if you hang it yourself) give or
take..Ready in a week...HTH...I doubt you could buy metal for that...Perhaps
somebody knows for sure???

On Apr 27, 8:40*pm, "benick" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...
On Apr 27, 3:43 pm, "benick" wrote:





"Joe" wrote in message

...
On Apr 27, 8:30 am, stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well. I have 2x4
studs 24 inch spacing. Since I think metal is 3 feet wide, will I have
to put nailers on top of studs? If it is better I will but I just
priced 1x4 and it is 6 bucks for a 10 foot long board. But again if it
is better I will. Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Many big box stores are selling metal roofing, etc., so that might be
a decent source of lower cost purlins than a 1 x 3. Check it out.

Joe

Sheetrock is about the cheapest and easiest way to go..Don't be scared of
mudding it..A garage is a PERFECT place to learn...Why in the world would
you want to wash cars in you garage with all the problems that entails
such
as MOLD ?? Unless you have built it like a car wash with severe slop to a
center drain , in which case you should get those vinyl panels you see at
the car wash for the ceiling and walls...VERY pricey...

I had a drain put in. It would just be nice to be able to do. Not that
I would do it all the time. I am waffeling between drywall and metal.
I have to do it all myself and my walls are 10 feet tall and the
building 30x30. White paint seems to show up bad mud job in a hurry!

I have to put metal in the ceiling. My trusses are 4 foot on center. I
dont know of any other material that will work and look good.

Just "having" a drain to carry away snow melting or water dripping off the
car might not be much use for a car wash unless the slab is all pitched to
the center..If not you could have standing water against a wall or
elsewhere....The drain may not handle the volume of water if not designed
for that or freezes in winter..I would wash it outside and quickly drive it
inside to towel it off and the rest.....You could drywall the ceiling but
you would need to strap the ceiling with 2X4's , 2 foot on center...You will
probably have to do that even if you use metal...Atleast I would..By the
time you get all your stuff in there you won't see much of the walls
anyway...To do it in drywall the materials would cost about 600.00..(20 4X12
for the ceiling and 20 54 inch X 12 foot sheetrock for the walls , 5 pails
of mud , 5 rolls tape 3 pounds of screws) ...Labor if you subbed it out
would be about 800-1000 bucks depending on area.Half that if you rent a
drywall lift and hang the rock yourself and just sub out the taping..Grand
total of about 1500 bucks (1000 bucks if you hang it yourself) *give or
take..Ready in a week...HTH...I doubt you could buy metal for that...Perhaps
somebody knows for sure???- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Metal for the ceiling was priced to me at 450 dolalrs including j
trim. It is some that was rejected for some reason. They said it
looked fine other than some of the edges had primer showing. If I went
with number 2 metal it is 1.93 a running foot. (3 square feet).

When all this began I priced the drywall to a guy and he wanted 5,000
to do the whole thing.

On Tue, 27 Apr 2010 09:50:52 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

stryped wrote:

I am thinking about using metal siding on my walls as well.

Why? Just wondering. It seems to me there are more downsides to
metal than upsides for interior use.

It is noisy, cold/hot, and difficult to paint once it get grungy. It
isn't as strong as plywood to hold shelves & whatnot, and it doesn't
have a fire rating like sheetrock. And unless you're getting it for
free, I don't think it is less expensive than wood or sheetrock.

Also poor sound control.


-snip-
Of course the metal will run vertically, so I am not
sure how that will work.

Why?

Jim