I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

On Mar 25, 6:07*pm, blueman wrote:
I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

A cigarette lighter adapter and a 9V battery ought to work with most
cars, IIRC.

Joe

On Mar 25, 6:07*pm, blueman wrote:
I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

I've heard of using a battery jumper pack. Put that on the
front floor, and plug in a double ended lighter plug cord.
Maybe you or a friend has a jumper pack with a "charge the
pack from your lighter socket" cord.

The DC 13 volts should work, also.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"blueman" wrote in message
...
I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for
this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply
temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything
to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to
either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might be
a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with it.
Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door doesn't
turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie

On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might
be a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with
it. Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might be
a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with it.
Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.

Keep in mind that when you start a car, the voltage can dip to 8-10 V under
heavy load.
So a 9V battery proly could do the job, as long as there wasn't much current
drain on it.

I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in
series would work as well.
Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.
--
EA



--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:49:20 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might be
a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with it.
Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.

Keep in mind that when you start a car, the voltage can dip to 8-10 V under
heavy load.
So a 9V battery proly could do the job, as long as there wasn't much current
drain on it.

I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in
series would work as well.
Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.

Better yet get the codes. You can get it from either a dealer (w/ a
copy of title or other proof), or radio manufacturer with a sales
receipt. If codes are unavailable, seriously consider dumping the unit
It is an accident waiting to happen.

On 3/25/2010 6:49 PM Existential Angst spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...

On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might be
a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with it.
Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.

Keep in mind that when you start a car, the voltage can dip to 8-10 V under
heavy load.
So a 9V battery proly could do the job, as long as there wasn't much current
drain on it.

I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in
series would work as well.
Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.

Any of the above will work. You certainly don't need 14.0 +/- 0.25V.


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

On Mar 25, 5:07*pm, blueman wrote:
I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

==
Your best bet would be to phone a dealership for the make and year of
car, talk to the service manager and get some FREE advice.
==

On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:11:58 -0500, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:49:20 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
rs.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might be
a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with it.
Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.

Keep in mind that when you start a car, the voltage can dip to 8-10 V under
heavy load.
So a 9V battery proly could do the job, as long as there wasn't much current
drain on it.

I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in
series would work as well.
Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.

Better yet get the codes. You can get it from either a dealer (w/ a

The codes will get the radio working, if it needs codes, but it won't
restore the radio pre-sets. Some radios have 20 of those.

copy of title or other proof), or radio manufacturer with a sales
receipt. If codes are unavailable, seriously consider dumping the unit
It is an accident waiting to happen.

I would wait until the accident happened.

On Mar 25, 7:17*pm, Joe wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:07*pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

A cigarette lighter adapter and a 9V battery ought to work with most
cars, IIRC.

Joe

I use a little 12v gel cell, thats what I had handy.

Jimmie

"Charlie" wrote in
:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about
1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply
temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the
cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9
volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and
be done with it. Remember, you're not charging the battery, only
powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie




what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is off?
Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about
1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply
temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the
cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9
volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and
be done with it. Remember, you're not charging the battery, only
powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie




what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is off?
Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?

Most don't turn off the cigar lighter. Although I do question what
happens when the door is opened and the little 9v tries to power the
interior lights?

Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie




what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?

Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

Although I do question what
happens when the door is opened and the little 9v tries to power the
interior lights?

On Mar 25, 10:44*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:







On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A)..
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. *Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.

Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me. Someone
else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the cigarette
lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9 volts might
be a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and be done with
it. Remember, you're not charging the battery, only powering the radio's
NOVRAM stay-alive power.

--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???)"

They don't call them "cigarette lighter sockets" anymore.

They're called "Automotive Power Ports" or some variation of that.

Many vehicles have multiple "ports" such as additional ones in the
trunk or hatchback or backseat to power portable DVD players, cell
phone chargers, etc.

On Mar 26, 10:45*am, Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
rs.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about
1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply
temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. *Like you
indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into the
cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of those???). 9
volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a 12-volt supply and
be done with it. Remember, you're not charging the battery, only
powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.

That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie

what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is off?
Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?

Most don't turn off the cigar lighter. *Although I do question what
happens when the door is opened and the little 9v tries to power the
interior lights?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Most don't turn off the cigar lighter"

Some do...some don't. Can't say if it's "most" or not.

The wife's 2005 Taurus doesn't, my 2004 Odyssey does. There are pros
and cons for both.

My Dodge conversion van used to turn off the "Automotive Power Port"
in the dash, but not the one in the "way back".

When I added another one in the passenger area, I made sure it stay
powered on all the time.

What I'd like to see...and maybe they have them...is this:

A set-up where I can push a button once the car is started so that the
Power Port will stay "ON" after the car is shut off, but default to
shutting "OFF" with the car if I don't push the button. An extra bonus
would be to be able to turn the Power Port on without starting the
car, but would still default to shutting "OFF" with the car once it
was started and then shut off, assuming I didn't press the button
again.

That way I can decide if I want the Power Port energized with the car
off, but I wouldn't be in danger of killing the battery if I
accidentally left something on. When we had the Conversion van, the
kid's would sometimes leave something powered on and kill the battery.
It would be nice to prevent that, but still be able to *choose* to run
something with the car off.

(The Traction Control in my Honda can be turned "OFF" once the car is
running, but defaults to turning to "ON" every time the van is
started. I'd like similar logic for the Power Port where I can
override the default, but still have it default to "safe mode" if I
don't take any action.)

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:07:37 -0400, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

I had to do this on my father in law's cadillac where the whole car
gets a brain transplant when you disconnect the battery. I just
connected it up to my car with jumper cables, swapped the battery and
hooked it back up. Just be careful not to let anything short out.
This caddy has a "jumper" terminal away from the battery so the hookup
was easy. I just put the terminals in heavy leather work gloves
because I had that handy.

This sounded a little like overkill, but is sounding better all the time.

No worry about cig lighter is on, or door is open for lights. And (not
mentioned except by you) disconnected hot battery terminal can't be
grounded.

Temporarily connecting a 9V battery to 12V doesn't do anything?

--
bud--

chaniarts wrote:
Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie



what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?
Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

Although I do question what
happens when the door is opened and the little 9v tries to power the
interior lights?



Most recent cars don't call it a cigarette lighter any more, they call
it a 'power outlet', and it has a little flipper cover over it. Some
switch, some don't. Usual convention is a picture of a battery for
non-switched, and a picture of a key for switched. A lot of cars don't
even have one. Other alternative is to go to Harbor Freight, and buy
some big alligator clips and some wire, and just make it so you can clip
it on the next connector and available ground point downstream from the
battery.

--
aem sends...

chaniarts wrote:
Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie



what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?
Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

What are they?

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 21:58:51 -0400, aemeijers wrote:

chaniarts wrote:
Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie



what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?
Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

Although I do question what
happens when the door is opened and the little 9v tries to power the
interior lights?



Most recent cars don't call it a cigarette lighter any more, they call
it a 'power outlet', and it has a little flipper cover over it. Some
switch, some don't. Usual convention is a picture of a battery for
non-switched, and a picture of a key for switched. A lot of cars don't
even have one. Other alternative is to go to Harbor Freight, and buy
some big alligator clips and some wire, and just make it so you can clip
it on the next connector and available ground point downstream from the
battery.

My truck and car each have two power outlets. One of the ones in my truck is
a "cigar lighter" and one is an aux power outlet. IIRC, one is switched, but
I don't remember which one. Neither of the outlets in the car is switched.

bud-- wrote:
wrote:
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:07:37 -0400, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

I had to do this on my father in law's cadillac where the whole car
gets a brain transplant when you disconnect the battery. I just
connected it up to my car with jumper cables, swapped the battery and
hooked it back up. Just be careful not to let anything short out. This
caddy has a "jumper" terminal away from the battery so the hookup
was easy. I just put the terminals in heavy leather work gloves
because I had that handy.

This sounded a little like overkill, but is sounding better all the time.

No worry about cig lighter is on, or door is open for lights. And (not
mentioned except by you) disconnected hot battery terminal can't be
grounded.

Temporarily connecting a 9V battery to 12V doesn't do anything?

That depends on what the voltage requirement of the Non-Volatile RAM.
Lot's of auto computers run partially on regulated 5 volts powered by
the 12vdc battery. If so, the 9vdc would work just fine. Not to
mention that most non-volatile ram doesn't need full rated working
voltage to hold memory. I've seen lots of 5VDC ram that only need 2.5
to 3 volts to hold the memory.

Joe wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, wrote:
I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks

A cigarette lighter adapter and a 9V battery ought to work with most
cars, IIRC.

Joe
Hi,
Firmware does not need power to keep the contents.
Other learned parameters can e relearned after battery is reconnected.
Couple fill up and some usual driving will be all that needed.

wrote:
On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 16:51:40 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 26 Mar 2010 12:49:40 -0600, bud--
wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:07:37 -0400, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying about 1A).
Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to supply temporary
power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to be
worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to either car
electonics or to my power supply)?

Thanks
I had to do this on my father in law's cadillac where the whole car
gets a brain transplant when you disconnect the battery. I just
connected it up to my car with jumper cables, swapped the battery and
hooked it back up. Just be careful not to let anything short out.
This caddy has a "jumper" terminal away from the battery so the hookup
was easy. I just put the terminals in heavy leather work gloves
because I had that handy.
This sounded a little like overkill, but is sounding better all the time.

No worry about cig lighter is on, or door is open for lights. And (not
mentioned except by you) disconnected hot battery terminal can't be
grounded.

Temporarily connecting a 9V battery to 12V doesn't do anything?
If there is an under hood light, like that caddy has, a 9v battery
would not do diddly. Jumper cables to another car seemed the
fastest/easiest thing to do since they were already in my trunk.

That must explain why every auto parts store in creation sells a
device for this purpose that uses 9 volt batteries.


And how long does it take to pull the bulb out of that underhood light?

--
aem sends...

On Thu, 25 Mar 2010 22:49:20 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:

[snip]


I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so two of those in
series would work as well.

IIRC, they're 4 F cells (an F cell is as big around as a D cell, but
about 40% taller). They should allow a higher discharge rate. There
are also 12V lantern batteries (8 F cells).

BTW, I have no idea what happened to E.

Mebbe even the battery packs from 12V drills, etc.

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Gary H" wrote in message
...

I think lantern batteries are 6V (basically 4 D cells), so
two of those in
series would work as well.

IIRC, they're 4 F cells (an F cell is as big around as a D
cell, but
about 40% taller). They should allow a higher discharge
rate. There
are also 12V lantern batteries (8 F cells).

BTW, I have no idea what happened to E.

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power their
plate circuits (B+).

" wrote in
:

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power
their plate circuits (B+).




--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

" wrote in
:

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power
their plate circuits (B+).


They're still sold. Everready 22.5 and 45 volt B batteries.
Some analog meters still use 22.5v B batteries for their ohms function.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.
A simple 9 volt radio battery is all that is required for the memory
keep alive. Connect one to a cig ligther plug, with a diode to keep
the 12 volts from hitting the 9 volt battery, plug it into the lighter
socket, close the door, and change the battery. 7 volts is more than
enough to maintain the memory.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to
power their
plate circuits (B+).


errrrr. . . don't most Dell products still use vacuum tubes?

--
Nonny
Suppose you were an idiot.
And suppose you were a member
of Congress.... But then I repeat myself.'

-Mark Twain
..

On 2010-03-28, wrote:

A simple 9 volt radio battery is all that is required for the memory
keep alive.

With all the new computer/electronics surveillance crap in cars, these
days, why would you want to keep memory alive. Hell, I'd think
unhooking the battery for a day about once a week would be more in
order.

nb

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 19:34:15 -0700, "Nonny" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to
power their
plate circuits (B+).


errrrr. . . don't most Dell products still use vacuum tubes?

Just because they suck doesn't mean there is a tube around the vacuum.

On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 17:37:49 GMT, notbob wrote:
On 2010-03-28, wrote:
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 15:28:03 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2010-03-28, wrote:

A simple 9 volt radio battery is all that is required for the memory
keep alive.

With all the new computer/electronics surveillance crap in cars, these
days, why would you want to keep memory alive. Hell, I'd think
unhooking the battery for a day about once a week would be more in
order.

nb

I imagine the spy circuits use flash memory.

Sounds like a niche market. CarMemKiller!

Rent cars for all your transportation. Always torch them after use.

Jim Yanik wrote:
" wrote in
:

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.
Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power
their plate circuits (B+).


They're still sold. Everready 22.5 and 45 volt B batteries.
Some analog meters still use 22.5v B batteries for their ohms function.

And I still have my antique portable radio that took 2 45v cells in
series, but it was cheaper to use 10 9volt batteries in series. I don't
think the 45 volt cells they make now come in alkaline flavor so they
don't last very long.

Nonny wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 20:02:11 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Having viewed the idiot piece on Youtube "32 AA cells" in a
lantern battery. I took apart a couple lantern batteries.
The Rayovac carbon had four D-like cells, and the Duracell
had literally four D cells (just like the D cells you'd buy
in the stores). With a cardboard spacer, and contacts.

Supposedly Energizer alkalines contain the F cells, not
Duracell. I havn't opened one of them. Also no clue what
happened to B, or E cells.

Radios don't use tubes anymore so no need for 'B' batteries to power
their
plate circuits (B+).


errrrr. . . don't most Dell products still use vacuum tubes?

Most all home pc's used vacuum tubes until the last 5 or so years ago
when they came out with LCD video monitors. They used one big vacuum
tube, also known as a picture tube.

On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 14:56:23 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-03-28, wrote:

Yeah, then pay the dealer to hook up their proprietary programmer to
reprogram all your car's options.

Then it doesn't sound much like an option.

You'll have to excuse this ol' geezer. I'm from a era when the car
did what I want it to do, not the other way around.

You cain't even adjust the idle on yer car anymore. goodgawd....

I'd rather have the drivability and efficiency of EFI. I don't ever
want to go back to the days when driving a flyweight deathtrap like a
VW bug mean losing speed on hills, having a 0-60 of 35 seconds, and a
top fuel economy of 22mpg. Get something with the performance of
today's ford focus, and you'd be talking fuel economy around 15mph.
**** that. Plus cars that had to have the points adjusted every 15K
miles...

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 14:56:23 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-03-28, wrote:

Yeah, then pay the dealer to hook up their proprietary programmer to
reprogram all your car's options.
Then it doesn't sound much like an option.

You'll have to excuse this ol' geezer. I'm from a era when the car
did what I want it to do, not the other way around.

You cain't even adjust the idle on yer car anymore. goodgawd....

I'd rather have the drivability and efficiency of EFI. I don't ever
want to go back to the days when driving a flyweight deathtrap like a
VW bug mean losing speed on hills, having a 0-60 of 35 seconds, and a
top fuel economy of 22mpg. Get something with the performance of
today's ford focus, and you'd be talking fuel economy around 15mph.
**** that. Plus cars that had to have the points adjusted every 15K
miles...

Hey, the Beetle was a very nice 1938 car! Of course, 40+ years later
when they quit making it in Brazil or Mexico or wherever, not so much.
But its genes live on in the rear-engine Porsches, and GM even cloned
the VW/Porsche design for a few years as the Corvair. (Still ****ed at
Nader for killing that- the 3rd generation one could have been fantastic.)
--
aem sends...

Tony wrote:
chaniarts wrote:
Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to
be worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to
either car electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie



what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?
Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

What are they?

4runner and 2 vettes, although the vettes also have an unswitched pair of
bare wires in the glove box. they're pretty tiny wires and are only rated
for a few watts. used for cell phones or cb radios.

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 12:38:26 -0700, "chaniarts"
wrote:

Tony wrote:
chaniarts wrote:
Tony wrote:
Jim Yanik wrote:
"Charlie" wrote in
:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 3/25/2010 5:00 PM hr(bob) spake thus:

On Mar 25, 6:07 pm, blueman wrote:

I need to clean the terminals and change out my car battery.
I would rather not lose the setttings on my radio.
But I also would rather not invest in a charger just for this
application.

I have several variable voltage DC power supplies (supplying
about 1A). Could I use such a supply set at say about 13-14V to
supply temporary power while the battery is removed?

Other than getting the voltage and polarity right, anything to
be worried about here or any chance of causing damage (to
either car electonics or to my power supply)?
Set the voltage at 14.0 +/- 0.25V and you should be fine. Like
you indicated, just keep the polarities correct.
Sounds like way overkill on the precision (and voltage) to me.
Someone else here said to just use a 9-volt battery plugged into
the cigarette lighter socket (does this car even have one of
those???). 9 volts might be a mite low, but I'd say just use a
12-volt supply and be done with it. Remember, you're not charging
the battery, only powering the radio's NOVRAM stay-alive power.


That will probably work well if you make sure that opening a door
doesn't turn on interior lights and suck down the battery.

Charlie



what if your car turns off the cig lighter outlet when the car is
off? Will the 9v fixture still hold the memory?
Most don't turn off the cigar lighter.

all 3 of my cars do: a 90, 94, and 96.

What are they?

4runner and 2 vettes, although the vettes also have an unswitched pair of
bare wires in the glove box. they're pretty tiny wires and are only rated
for a few watts. used for cell phones or cb radios.

MOST 1996 and newer (obd2 compliant) vehicles have at least one
unswitched "dc power outlet".