Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 07:08:48 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends.

How wide is the door & how much "daylight' can you see?

I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed.

'rubber'? What kind of strips? A garage door bottom seal should
give you an inch and a half or so of leeway. If the door is warped
beyond that [or the floor is heaved that much] you have worse things
to correct than seeing a little daylight.

Jim

On Dec 8, 10:47*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 07:08:48 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends.

How wide is the door & how much "daylight' can you see?

I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *

'rubber'? * * What kind of strips? * A garage door bottom seal should
give you an inch and a half or so of leeway. * If the door is warped
beyond that [or the floor is heaved that much] you have worse things
to correct than seeing a little daylight.

Jim

The door is on a standard 1 car garage. I can see daylight on both
ends for about 20 inches, widest gap between floor and door at the end
and decreasing as it approaches the middle of the door which is
touching the floor properly.

The rubber strips I added initially were just a standard "bottom of
the garage door" thing. They helped a bit, but I can still see light
where the nails are (as the nails push the rubber all the way to the
door).

Oh, I do have more in mind than keeping out the daylight - I killed a
rodent that had made it's way in (presumably) under the door (it's now
getting cold here in the south and the rats are looking for warmth).
I noticed the rat behind a small flat piece of metal that was leaning
against the wall. I kicked the metal which stunned it, the piece of
metal fell flat to the floor and I quickly used my foot to smash the
rat between the metal and the wall. It's tail was wagging wildly for
about 10 seconds. It wasn't a big one, body was about 4-5 inches long
and the tail was probably twice that.

Thanks..

Mike

In article
,
Mike wrote:

Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,





*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. Will give it some thought. I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. I
like it. I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

On Dec 8, 10:08*am, Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Mine shows light due to floor settling. I've built up with a quick
set cement. Does not look bad and car does not break it.

On Dec 8, 11:20*am, Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 10:47*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:





On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 07:08:48 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends.

How wide is the door & how much "daylight' can you see?

I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *

'rubber'? * * What kind of strips? * A garage door bottom seal should
give you an inch and a half or so of leeway. * If the door is warped
beyond that [or the floor is heaved that much] you have worse things
to correct than seeing a little daylight.

Jim

The door is on a standard 1 car garage. *I can see daylight on both
ends for about 20 inches, widest gap between floor and door at the end
and decreasing as it approaches the middle of the door which is
touching the floor properly.

The rubber strips I added initially were just a standard "bottom of
the garage door" thing. *They helped a bit, but I can still see light
where the nails are (as the nails push the rubber all the way to the
door).

Oh, I do have more in mind than keeping out the daylight - I killed a
rodent that had made it's way in (presumably) under the door (it's now
getting cold here in the south and the rats are looking for warmth).
I noticed the rat behind a small flat piece of metal that was leaning
against the wall. *I kicked the metal which stunned it, the piece of
metal fell flat to the floor and I quickly used my foot to smash the
rat between the metal and the wall. *It's tail was wagging wildly for
about 10 seconds. *It wasn't a big one, body was about 4-5 inches long
and the tail was probably twice that.

Thanks..

Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you are not attaching the rubber correctly. The nails are not
supposed to collapse the rubber. The rubber strip on the bottom of
the garage door has to be attached such that it is free to expand into
the gaps. A new one will be able to cover close to a inch of
imperfections in the door or floor. Look at how the old strip was
attached. Replace the entire strip.

Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?


Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new digital
cameras.

On Dec 8, 8:48*am, Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:



In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

Is this a slab door or a sectional?

If the floor is flat, straight and level...then the problem is with
the door.

Smitty's idea of shaping the door bottom will work...I've done it on
two different door to improve the fit / seal and avoid replacing the
door. In both cases the concrete was not straight or flat.....so I
sculpted the door to fit; primed & painted it as well.

cheers
Bob

On Dec 8, 12:24*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new digital
cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.

Mike

On Dec 8, 12:14*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Dec 8, 11:20*am, Mike wrote:





On Dec 8, 10:47*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 07:08:48 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends.

How wide is the door & how much "daylight' can you see?

I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *

'rubber'? * * What kind of strips? * A garage door bottom seal should
give you an inch and a half or so of leeway. * If the door is warped
beyond that [or the floor is heaved that much] you have worse things
to correct than seeing a little daylight.

Jim

The door is on a standard 1 car garage. *I can see daylight on both
ends for about 20 inches, widest gap between floor and door at the end
and decreasing as it approaches the middle of the door which is
touching the floor properly.

The rubber strips I added initially were just a standard "bottom of
the garage door" thing. *They helped a bit, but I can still see light
where the nails are (as the nails push the rubber all the way to the
door).

Oh, I do have more in mind than keeping out the daylight - I killed a
rodent that had made it's way in (presumably) under the door (it's now
getting cold here in the south and the rats are looking for warmth).
I noticed the rat behind a small flat piece of metal that was leaning
against the wall. *I kicked the metal which stunned it, the piece of
metal fell flat to the floor and I quickly used my foot to smash the
rat between the metal and the wall. *It's tail was wagging wildly for
about 10 seconds. *It wasn't a big one, body was about 4-5 inches long
and the tail was probably twice that.

Thanks..

Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think you are not attaching the rubber correctly. *The nails are not
supposed to collapse the rubber. *The rubber strip on the bottom of
the garage door has to be attached such that it is free to expand into
the gaps. *A new one will be able to cover close to a inch of
imperfections in the door or floor. *Look at how the old strip was
attached. *Replace the entire strip.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

For the additional rubber strip I added, I rolled up the strip and
nailed it on top off (or below when the door is down) the existing
strip. I was experimenting and it didn't really pay off.

Thanks for the response.

Mike

On Dec 8, 12:34*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Dec 8, 8:48*am, Mike wrote:





On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

Is this a slab door or a sectional?

If the floor is flat, straight and level...then the problem is with
the door.

Smitty's idea of shaping the door bottom will work...I've done it on
two different door to improve the fit / seal and avoid replacing the
door. *In both cases the concrete was not straight or flat.....so I
sculpted the door to fit; primed & painted it as well.

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's an old sectional door. It's in decent shape aside from the
bottom. I'll consider sawing off part of the bottom to make it more
closely meet the floor. That might be the ticket (short of buying a
new door).

Thanks.

Mike

On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

That'd be a ****ing tragedy.

Garage door seal experts are so rare.
-----

- gpsman

On Dec 8, 12:34*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Dec 8, 8:48*am, Mike wrote:





On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

Is this a slab door or a sectional?

If the floor is flat, straight and level...then the problem is with
the door.

Smitty's idea of shaping the door bottom will work...I've done it on
two different door to improve the fit / seal and avoid replacing the
door. *In both cases the concrete was not straight or flat.....so I
sculpted the door to fit; primed & painted it as well.

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My first thought was to tack a 1 X 3 along the bottom to give a flat,
level edge that meets the floor along the whole width.

Paul

On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 10:18:22 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

On Dec 8, 12:34*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Dec 8, 8:48*am, Mike wrote:





On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

Is this a slab door or a sectional?

If the floor is flat, straight and level...then the problem is with
the door.

Smitty's idea of shaping the door bottom will work...I've done it on
two different door to improve the fit / seal and avoid replacing the
door. *In both cases the concrete was not straight or flat.....so I
sculpted the door to fit; primed & painted it as well.

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's an old sectional door. It's in decent shape aside from the
bottom. I'll consider sawing off part of the bottom to make it more
closely meet the floor. That might be the ticket (short of buying a
new door).

Thanks.

Mike

Consider a power planer and shave the middle of the door a bit. Make
sure nails are out, before you try it. Might be easier than a circular
saw.

YMMV.

On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:48:39 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

On Dec 8, 11:34Â*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,





Â*Mike wrote:
Hi all. Â*My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. Â*In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. Â*When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. Â*I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Â*Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber Â* Â* Â*strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. Â*Then re-attach the rubber strip. Â*The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. Â*A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? Â*How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. Will give it some thought. I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. I
like it. I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?

On Dec 8, 5:04*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:48:39 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:





On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.





I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's hard to believe that both sides of the door are higher, every
case I have seen where this has occurred is where the weight of the
walls on the side of the floor depress the sides of the floor and the
middle is higher. If the center of the door is sagging, then a couple
of wire ropes from the sides of the bottom panel to the top center of
the same panel will return the panel to square.

On Dec 8, 6:55*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Dec 8, 5:04*pm, wrote:



On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:48:39 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

On Dec 8, 11:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,

*Mike wrote:
Hi all. *My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. *In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. *When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. *I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. *Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber * * *strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. *Then re-attach the rubber strip. *The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. *A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? *How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. *I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. *Will give it some thought. *I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. *Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. *I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. *I
like it. *I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. *You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's hard to believe that both sides of the door are higher, every
case I have seen where this has occurred is where the weight of the
walls on the side of the floor depress the sides of the floor and the
middle is higher. *If the center of the door is sagging, then a couple
of wire ropes from the sides of the bottom panel to the top center of
the same panel will return the panel to square.

What you say is true - the middle of the door touches the floor
leaving both sides of the door about a 1/2 inch off the floor. Is the
floor straight? I can't say with certainty, but either the floor is
sagging near the edges of the door, or the door is getting warped.
I'm just looking for a short-term fix to keep the rodents out for
now.

As for the poster who suggested this -

"If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.

What would be the best way to scribe the line? Perhaps clamp the 2x3
alongside the partially open door, trace the shape of the bottom of
the door and then cut? I like this idea. Sounds more like something
I could do (unlike planing off the bottom of the door).

Thanks again, everyone!

Mike

On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 16:33:43 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

On Dec 8, 6:55Â*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Dec 8, 5:04Â*pm, wrote:



On Tue, 8 Dec 2009 08:48:39 -0800 (PST), Mike
wrote:

On Dec 8, 11:34Â*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,

Â*Mike wrote:
Hi all. Â*My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. Â*In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. Â*When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. Â*I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both ends,
but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still see
daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Â*Here is what I'm
pondering - what if I remove the rubber Â* Â* Â*strip(s) currently on the
door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of the
door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1) to fill
in the space. Â*Then re-attach the rubber strip. Â*The idea being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. Â*A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the opening,
so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? Â*How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Mike

Assuming the garage floor is flat there, and the door is bowed, I'd set
the door at a convenient height, clamp on a straight edge, and true up
the bottom of the door with a saw.

If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I do think the floor is flat. Â*I'd probably make matters worse if I
tried to shave some off the bottom, but I hadn't considered that
angle. Â*Will give it some thought. Â*I have father-in-law coming in
town in a couple weeks and he could help me do that. Â*Thanks for the
suggestion!

Mike

P.S. Â*I always (and only) use google for posting/reading usenet. Â*I
like it. Â*I can post from anywhere w/o needing a news reader. I used
Outlook Express years ago, but find this easier. Â*You must've seen the
OP else you couldn't have replied, right?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's hard to believe that both sides of the door are higher, every
case I have seen where this has occurred is where the weight of the
walls on the side of the floor depress the sides of the floor and the
middle is higher. Â*If the center of the door is sagging, then a couple
of wire ropes from the sides of the bottom panel to the top center of
the same panel will return the panel to square.

What you say is true - the middle of the door touches the floor
leaving both sides of the door about a 1/2 inch off the floor. Is the
floor straight? I can't say with certainty, but either the floor is
sagging near the edges of the door, or the door is getting warped.
I'm just looking for a short-term fix to keep the rodents out for
now.

As for the poster who suggested this -

"If the floor is flat, lay a 2X3 on the floor and scribe a line that
follows the line of door bottom, then cut the lumber to follow the
curve, Glue and screw it to the bottom of the door, and the rubber
seal to it.

What would be the best way to scribe the line? Perhaps clamp the 2x3
alongside the partially open door, trace the shape of the bottom of
the door and then cut? I like this idea. Sounds more like something
I could do (unlike planing off the bottom of the door).

Thanks again, everyone!

Mike

That is correct. The reason the door is "bowed" is because it is only
supported on the ends, and the weight of the main styles, and the rest
of the door, pushes down in the center.
In warm weather, soaking the door and then closing it onto a center
support with the spring tension off will TEND to straighten the door,
but it won't last. On the doors at a garage where I once worked we put
2X6 steel angle on the bottom of the door to keep it from bending - it
has a pretty powerfull electric door opener on it so the weight was
not a huge issue (over 100 lbs though!!!!!)

hr(bob) wrote:
(snip)

It's hard to believe that both sides of the door are higher, every
case I have seen where this has occurred is where the weight of the
walls on the side of the floor depress the sides of the floor and the
middle is higher. If the center of the door is sagging, then a couple
of wire ropes from the sides of the bottom panel to the top center of
the same panel will return the panel to square.

Every case of a garage floor with a hump in the middle that I have ever
seen, is due to frost heave. Very common on cookie-cutter houses where
builder cheaped out and didn't put any footings under the front edge of
the garage slab, and water got under it an froze. Usually very easy to
see with naked eye, and may even go up and down with the seasons. Are
there any cracks in floor, even in the molded-in expansion lines?
Unless the walls were built on the slab (bad technique), there is no way
for the walls to push the slab down. In a properly built garage, the
slab rests on ledges on the inside of the footer, similar to the brick
ledges on the outside of the foundation of a brick-skinned house.

I'd almost bet the floor does have a hump in the middle, or the door
panels are sagging in the middle. OP is just lucky the tracks have
stayed parallel, so the door still opens and closes. A hump or a sag
this small may not be eyeball apparent. A long straightedge, or a couple
blocks and some tightly-stretched string, and some large marbles, could
quickly tell a tale one way or the other. As a cheap temporary
work-around, the scribed 2x3 screwed to bottom of door is a safe
reversible way to go.

--
aem sends...

Smitty Two wrote:

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

On Dec 8, 10:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

In article
,
Joe wrote:

On Dec 8, 10:34*am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

You're visible to me because I have you whitelisted. I have about 15
google groupers whitelisted. But otherwise, I block all google posts by
default, since that's where 99.9% of the spam originates. (I believe
many other regulars here block google posts by default for the same
reason.)

I can see a google post indirectly (quoted) if a non-googler replies to
it. I can also open the original post manually if I want to see the
original, possibly because the responder trimmed the OP when he quoted
it.

You become whitelisted if over a period of time, people reply to your
posts, on subjects that I happen to read, and I decide that you're
making regular appearances and have something moderately intelligent to
say.

In article ,
Tony wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

I do see them. My newsreader allows me to filter on Message ID, among
other attributes, and it's there that I kill anything containing the
string "googlegroups."

Some newsreaders don't allow filtering on Message ID, and the best those
users can do is to equate a gmail address with a google group post.
Though the two often coincide, in reality, they have nothing to do with
one another. Unfortunately for gmail users, they're getting killfiled by
ignorant (and I don't mean that in a derogatory way) people with weak
newsreaders.

On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 23:38:39 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

Your message ID says you're posting from individual.net. Email &
Usenet are different animals.

Jim

On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 23:38:39 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

Your message ID says you're posting from individual.net. Email &
Usenet are different animals.

Jim

Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.


Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.


Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 23:38:39 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.
I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

Your message ID says you're posting from individual.net. Email &
Usenet are different animals.

Ah yes. I understand now.

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 08 Dec 2009 23:38:39 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Smitty Two wrote:
I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.
I'm curious if you see my posts? I'm using a Gmail address but it is
set up as a POP server so I never have to go the the web based gmail
email site.

Your message ID says you're posting from individual.net. Email &
Usenet are different animals.

Ah yes. I understand now.

Joe wrote:
On Dec 8, 10:34 am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

No, it's invisible, I can't see it at all.

TDD

Joe wrote:
On Dec 8, 10:34 am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip

I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.

I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

No, it's invisible, I can't see it at all.

TDD

Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
Joe wrote:

On Dec 8, 10:34 am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip
I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.
I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

You're visible to me because I have you whitelisted. I have about 15
google groupers whitelisted. But otherwise, I block all google posts by
default, since that's where 99.9% of the spam originates. (I believe
many other regulars here block google posts by default for the same
reason.)

I can see a google post indirectly (quoted) if a non-googler replies to
it. I can also open the original post manually if I want to see the
original, possibly because the responder trimmed the OP when he quoted
it.

You become whitelisted if over a period of time, people reply to your
posts, on subjects that I happen to read, and I decide that you're
making regular appearances and have something moderately intelligent to
say.

He should feel honored.

TDD

Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
Joe wrote:

On Dec 8, 10:34 am, Smitty Two wrote:

snip
I'd also not post from google. That way I'd see your OP and any
follow-ups. As it is, I won't.
I'm posting with Google Chrome using Google. Is this post visible?

Joe

You're visible to me because I have you whitelisted. I have about 15
google groupers whitelisted. But otherwise, I block all google posts by
default, since that's where 99.9% of the spam originates. (I believe
many other regulars here block google posts by default for the same
reason.)

I can see a google post indirectly (quoted) if a non-googler replies to
it. I can also open the original post manually if I want to see the
original, possibly because the responder trimmed the OP when he quoted
it.

You become whitelisted if over a period of time, people reply to your
posts, on subjects that I happen to read, and I decide that you're
making regular appearances and have something moderately intelligent to
say.

He should feel honored.

TDD

I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.


Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.


Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 17:54:33 -0500, "Jim Sherman"
wrote:

I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?

I like the thought.

I have one "stick" meant for and outside PVC pipe insulation. I will
try the idea, and if it works will get a few more.

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 17:54:33 -0500, "Jim Sherman"
wrote:

I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?

I like the thought.

I have one "stick" meant for and outside PVC pipe insulation. I will
try the idea, and if it works will get a few more.

On Dec 9, 5:54*pm, "Jim Sherman" wrote:
I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?"HeyBub" wrote in message

m...

Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.

Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

Thank you, Jim. I will give this method a go this weekend.
Definitely the easiest suggestion I've heard.

Mike

On Dec 9, 5:54*pm, "Jim Sherman" wrote:
I suggest a simple cheap fix that has worked for me in Michigan.
Go to the hardware store and buy a few grey foam pipe insulating four foot
sticks. Apply them to both ends of the door and trim to fit by trial and
error. When you can no longer see daylight under the door when it is closed,
you have finished the project. This stuff hangs onto the bottom of the door
without any nailing or gluing. From the outside, you can see it, but who is
going to walk around looking at the bottom of your garage door?"HeyBub" wrote in message

m...

Mike wrote:
On Dec 8, 12:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Mike wrote:
Hi all. My garage door is old (maybe 30 years) and probably needs to
be replaced - but not right now. In the short term, I'm seeking a
little advice from the good folks here. When the door is closed, the
middle of the door makes good contact with the floor, but I can see
daylight on both ends. I bought another rubber strip for the bottom
of the door, cut it into pieces and nailed a few pieces to both
ends, but that didn't really have the desired effect - I can still
see daylight under the ends when the door is closed. Here is what
I'm pondering - what if I remove the rubber strip(s) currently on
the door, get some paint stirrers and staple them to the bottom of
the door (3 stacked on the very end, then 2 next to the 3, then 1)
to fill in the space. Then re-attach the rubber strip. The idea
being to
fill the gaps with the paint stirrers. A friend suggested maybe just
nailing the paint stirrers to the inside (back) of the door at the
bottom rather than attaching them to the bottom to block the
opening, so that is also a possibility.

Any of you folks had to deal with such a situation? How did you fix
it (short of replacing the door)?

Why do you care?

If you're developing film in the garage, take a look at the new
digital cameras.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's not the light I'm trying to keep out, it's the small animals that
can get under there.

Ah! Okay, then.

Think cat.

Thank you, Jim. I will give this method a go this weekend.
Definitely the easiest suggestion I've heard.

Mike