I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean

On Oct 16, 3:03*pm, "Jean" wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean

yes, and probably not.

nate

"Jean" wrote in message
net...
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the
old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I
thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If
so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps
before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean


Maybe but I have a moral responsibity not to tell you about it.

Hanging wallpaper should rank right up there with owning duck tape. Both
should require a license.

And to qualify you should have to remove repair some of the abominations
created by ill informed users.

Do it right or don't do it at all.

Strip, wash and size the walls preferably over an oil paint base coat tinted
to about the BG color of the paper.

Colbyt

On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:03:56 -0400, "Jean" wrote:

I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean


Feather it out with drywall compound. Take time to make sure
everything is smooth, else it won't ever look good.

In the kitchen especially, don't stint on wallcovering prices.

Get a good fabric backed, vinyl coated covering - brand name like
Sanitas.

Don't waste your time mixing powdered wallpaper paste with water - go
the extra few bucks and buy premixed liquid adhesive made for vinyl
wallcoverings. Don't know how big your kitchen is, so start with a
gallon.

The most important and time consuming part of this project is prep.

Do it like Colbyt says.

Jean wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean


I have papered a number of rooms,and would never paint or paper over old
paper. Remove it comepletely; spackling seams will not hide them. I
papered a kitchen years ago with a good vinyl coated paper. The kitchen
got dirty and steamy, as we had no exhaust hood. Even with many
cleanings, it stayed intact for the 13 years afterward that I lived in
the house.

I strip paper using coarse sandpaper to cut the surface, spray with warm
water, soak, spray again, soak, and start gently scraping. Don't need
chemicals, as water softens the paste.

I learned from a pro to use half-strength paste on pre-pasted paper,
rather than immersing pre-pasted in plain water. Have done it both ways
with good results. Gotta be careful not to stretch the paper when you
apply it to the wall, as that is what leaves gaps (cheap paper may also
shrink).

In kitchens and baths, I run a very fine line of silicone caulk along
the bottom of the paper - moisture/steam can run down the wall and seep
under edge. I also caulked along the edge of the paper in our master
bath that runs along the corner of the shower stall - paper has been
there about 10 years with no loose corners or seams. I taped the edge
of the paper where it adjoins the tile so that the caulk line is white
and same color and width as the tile grout joint; very light
application, smoothed out and tape removed right away.

On Oct 16, 3:13*pm, "
wrote:
Jean wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean

I have papered a number of rooms,and would never paint or paper over old
paper. *Remove it comepletely; spackling seams will not hide them. *I
papered a kitchen years ago with a good vinyl coated paper. *The kitchen
got dirty and steamy, as we had no exhaust hood. *Even with many
cleanings, it stayed intact for the 13 years afterward that I lived in
the house.

I strip paper using coarse sandpaper to cut the surface, spray with warm
water, soak, spray again, soak, and start gently scraping. *Don't need
chemicals, as water softens the paste.

I learned from a pro to use half-strength paste on pre-pasted paper,
rather than immersing pre-pasted in plain water. *Have done it both ways
with good results. *Gotta be careful not to stretch the paper when you
apply it to the wall, as that is what leaves gaps (cheap paper may also
shrink).

In kitchens and baths, I run a very fine line of silicone caulk along
the bottom of the paper - moisture/steam can run down the wall and seep
under edge. *I also caulked along the edge of the paper in our master
bath that runs along the corner of the shower stall - paper has been
there about 10 years with no loose corners or seams. *I taped the edge
of the paper where it adjoins the tile so that the caulk line is white
and same color and width as the tile grout joint; very light
application, smoothed out and tape removed right away.

Thanks! I'm not the OP, but I'm saving that great advice for if and
when!

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Oct 16, 3:13 pm, "
wrote:
Jean wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?
Thanks,
Jean
I have papered a number of rooms,and would never paint or paper over old
paper. Remove it comepletely; spackling seams will not hide them. I
papered a kitchen years ago with a good vinyl coated paper. The kitchen
got dirty and steamy, as we had no exhaust hood. Even with many
cleanings, it stayed intact for the 13 years afterward that I lived in
the house.

I strip paper using coarse sandpaper to cut the surface, spray with warm
water, soak, spray again, soak, and start gently scraping. Don't need
chemicals, as water softens the paste.

I learned from a pro to use half-strength paste on pre-pasted paper,
rather than immersing pre-pasted in plain water. Have done it both ways
with good results. Gotta be careful not to stretch the paper when you
apply it to the wall, as that is what leaves gaps (cheap paper may also
shrink).

In kitchens and baths, I run a very fine line of silicone caulk along
the bottom of the paper - moisture/steam can run down the wall and seep
under edge. I also caulked along the edge of the paper in our master
bath that runs along the corner of the shower stall - paper has been
there about 10 years with no loose corners or seams. I taped the edge
of the paper where it adjoins the tile so that the caulk line is white
and same color and width as the tile grout joint; very light
application, smoothed out and tape removed right away.

Thanks! I'm not the OP, but I'm saving that great advice for if and
when!

You're welcome, and thank you. Nice to be appreciated )

"Jean" wrote in message
net...
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the
old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I
thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If
so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps
before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean


Why in the world would you want to put more up there once you get this down?
Unless, of course, we're talking about the red/black or purple/yellow fleur
de lis New Orleans brothel type.

Steve

Higgs Boson wrote:
On Oct 16, 3:13 pm, "
wrote:
Jean wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?
Thanks,
Jean
I have papered a number of rooms,and would never paint or paper over old
paper. Remove it comepletely; spackling seams will not hide them. I
papered a kitchen years ago with a good vinyl coated paper. The kitchen
got dirty and steamy, as we had no exhaust hood. Even with many
cleanings, it stayed intact for the 13 years afterward that I lived in
the house.

I strip paper using coarse sandpaper to cut the surface, spray with warm
water, soak, spray again, soak, and start gently scraping. Don't need
chemicals, as water softens the paste.

I learned from a pro to use half-strength paste on pre-pasted paper,
rather than immersing pre-pasted in plain water. Have done it both ways
with good results. Gotta be careful not to stretch the paper when you
apply it to the wall, as that is what leaves gaps (cheap paper may also
shrink).

In kitchens and baths, I run a very fine line of silicone caulk along
the bottom of the paper - moisture/steam can run down the wall and seep
under edge. I also caulked along the edge of the paper in our master
bath that runs along the corner of the shower stall - paper has been
there about 10 years with no loose corners or seams. I taped the edge
of the paper where it adjoins the tile so that the caulk line is white
and same color and width as the tile grout joint; very light
application, smoothed out and tape removed right away.

Thanks! I'm not the OP, but I'm saving that great advice for if and
when!


And don't forget that reconstituting wallpaper paste enough to soften it
takes a lot of patience....it is sneaky, and if the plan is to paint the
wall, make a final check with light shone across the wall to see if
there is paste remaining. Leftover paste will leave a pattern that
shows through paint. When I'm removing wallpaper, I usually let the
wall "rest", dry out, before the final washdown. You can tell when it
is starting to dampen the paper covering of drywall, and you don't want
that shredding.

wrote in message m...
Jean wrote:
I want to repaper the walls in the kitchen. I was hoping to avoid taking the old paper down, but there are gaps between the seams in the old paper and I thought they might show through on the new paper. Will they show through? If so, is there any sort of "filler" that I can use to get rid of the gaps before repapering?

Thanks,

Jean


I have papered a number of rooms,and would never paint or paper over old
paper. Remove it comepletely; spackling seams will not hide them. I
papered a kitchen years ago with a good vinyl coated paper. The kitchen
got dirty and steamy, as we had no exhaust hood. Even with many
cleanings, it stayed intact for the 13 years afterward that I lived in
the house.

I strip paper using coarse sandpaper to cut the surface, spray with warm
water, soak, spray again, soak, and start gently scraping. Don't need
chemicals, as water softens the paste.

I learned from a pro to use half-strength paste on pre-pasted paper,
rather than immersing pre-pasted in plain water. Have done it both ways
with good results. Gotta be careful not to stretch the paper when you
apply it to the wall, as that is what leaves gaps (cheap paper may also
shrink).

In kitchens and baths, I run a very fine line of silicone caulk along
the bottom of the paper - moisture/steam can run down the wall and seep
under edge. I also caulked along the edge of the paper in our master
bath that runs along the corner of the shower stall - paper has been
there about 10 years with no loose corners or seams. I taped the edge
of the paper where it adjoins the tile so that the caulk line is white
and same color and width as the tile grout joint; very light
application, smoothed out and tape removed right away.


Thanks for the tip about caulking around the edges - I haven't heard that one before and it seems (no pun intended) like a great idea.

Jean