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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi,
I've moved into a house and had a couple of jobs done (in this order)... 1) Got cavity wall insulation fitted 2) Replaced the electric fire with a gas fire Both jobs have been done by "professionals". The gas fire uses a pre-cast flue which is connected to a raised roof tile on the top of the house. Recently, when the gas fire is on at over 50%, I've noticed the wall in front of the metal flue is getting extremely hot. So much in fact, the paint is starting to blister, and the walls are too hot to touch. I'm a bit stuck at what to do next, other than not use the fire. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. |
#2
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#3
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wrote:
Hi, I've moved into a house and had a couple of jobs done (in this order)... 1) Got cavity wall insulation fitted 2) Replaced the electric fire with a gas fire Both jobs have been done by "professionals". The gas fire uses a pre-cast flue which is connected to a raised roof tile on the top of the house. Recently, when the gas fire is on at over 50%, I've noticed the wall in front of the metal flue is getting extremely hot. So much in fact, the paint is starting to blister, and the walls are too hot to touch. I'm a bit stuck at what to do next, other than not use the fire. Any suggestions? Where is the problem exactly? If its the paint, you should use heat resistant paint, stripping off whats there now first. NT |
#4
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Hi,
Thanks for the replies. Yep - I paid for the work to be done. I've called the company who installed the fire. Hopefully I'll be hearing from them tomorrow. The paint is flaking off on the wall between the fire surround and the ceiling. Also noticed that in the upstairs room above the fire, the plaster has a hairline crack in it. I guess the flue is at the other side of the cracked plaster. The plaster is not new. If worse comes to worse, I'll get the "company" to do a deal and replace the gas fire with an electric one. |
#5
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Gaz wrote:
Hi, Thanks for the replies. Yep - I paid for the work to be done. I've called the company who installed the fire. Hopefully I'll be hearing from them tomorrow. The paint is flaking off on the wall between the fire surround and the ceiling. Also noticed that in the upstairs room above the fire, the plaster has a hairline crack in it. I guess the flue is at the other side of the cracked plaster. The plaster is not new. If worse comes to worse, I'll get the "company" to do a deal and replace the gas fire with an electric one. very odd. |
#6
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... Hi, I've moved into a house and had a couple of jobs done (in this order)... 1) Got cavity wall insulation fitted 2) Replaced the electric fire with a gas fire Both jobs have been done by "professionals". The gas fire uses a pre-cast flue which is connected to a raised roof tile on the top of the house. Recently, when the gas fire is on at over 50%, I've noticed the wall in front of the metal flue is getting extremely hot. So much in fact, the paint is starting to blister, and the walls are too hot to touch. I'm a bit stuck at what to do next, other than not use the fire. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. If the wall is getting that hot, then something needs to be done before it gets worse. The pre-cast flue is made of what? Is it an old chimney stack? |
#7
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BigWallop wrote:
If the wall is getting that hot, then something needs to be done before it gets worse. The pre-cast flue is made of what? Is it an old chimney stack? I must be in a brain warp he as I see it, a hot stack is a _good_ thing, it means youre recovering more of the heat out of the appliance, making its heating more effective, more powerful, reducing gas cost and emissions. If your paint cant take the heat, use some that can. The coal burner I used at one place made the metal stack roasting hot, lovely, all that heat. Luxury. It was finished in high temp paint, black to maximise IR radiation. Its no more of a safety isseu than having a kettle, those get hot too. No idiot touches it twice. I'm assuming the house construction is in line with the 1924 build regs, with struc woodwork not touching the chimney stack. Pre 1924 properties noramlly are, as its basic common sense. NT |
#8
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![]() In the loft, the flue looks like it's made out of metal. I'm not sure if the metal goes down to the fire, or if it's something else. The hot stack is getting too much heat. The wall above the fire surround has paint blistering off the plaster. The room upstairs has a gloss skirting board that's too hot to touch. It seems like a fire waiting to happen. I've been having a chat with a few people at work, and it seems like the air vent at the top of the fire is too big. The vent on my fire is about A4 in size. Most people's fires seem to have smaller vents. I think the bigger the vent, the more heat is getting chucked up the flue, rather than into the room. Does that make sense? |
#9
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![]() "Gaz" wrote in message oups.com... In the loft, the flue looks like it's made out of metal. I'm not sure if the metal goes down to the fire, or if it's something else. The hot stack is getting too much heat. The wall above the fire surround has paint blistering off the plaster. The room upstairs has a gloss skirting board that's too hot to touch. It seems like a fire waiting to happen. I've been having a chat with a few people at work, and it seems like the air vent at the top of the fire is too big. The vent on my fire is about A4 in size. Most people's fires seem to have smaller vents. I think the bigger the vent, the more heat is getting chucked up the flue, rather than into the room. Does that make sense? It all makes sense alright, but the fire was fitted professionally, wasn't it? It could be that the flue liner, the metal stack you talk about, is far to close to the surface for the type of gas fire you have, but it was fitted professionally, right? I think it's time you showed the installer what is happening, not just talking to them on the phone. Tell them you want an engineer to come round and take a look, or have a feel in this case, and work out exactly what the problems are. If it is getting as hot as you're saying, then the surrounding areas of the flue are, in my opinion, getting close to combusting. Get them back to have a feel. |
#10
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![]() "Gaz" wrote in message oups.com... In the loft, the flue looks like it's made out of metal. I'm not sure if the metal goes down to the fire, or if it's something else. If it is a flueblock flue then a change to "double" skinned metal flue pipe within the loft is normal The hot stack is getting too much heat. The wall above the fire surround has paint blistering off the plaster. The room upstairs has a gloss skirting board that's too hot to touch. It seems like a fire waiting to happen. Have you posted details of what the fire actually is? Also is it suitable for the fuel in use, i.e. if it is running on LPG is it an LPG model or is it a Natural Gas model with larger injectors (jets) which would produce a much bigger flame (and heat) than it should have. I've been having a chat with a few people at work, and it seems like the air vent at the top of the fire is too big. The vent on my fire is about A4 in size. Most people's fires seem to have smaller vents. I think the bigger the vent, the more heat is getting chucked up the flue, rather than into the room. Does that make sense? It might but your description of a "vent" requires clarification. Are you talking about an overfire flue break which will admit "lots" of cooling air and thus could be expected to actually cool the flue products rather than overheat the flue. The construction of the flue may not be to standard. Has the flue been used for a gas fire before this? I think you should speak to the manufacturers technical department |
#11
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Gaz wrote:
In the loft, the flue looks like it's made out of metal. I'm not sure if the metal goes down to the fire, or if it's something else. so far so good. Check how close the woodwork gets up there if youve any doubts. The hot stack is getting too much heat. That makes little sense The wall above the fire surround has paint blistering off the plaster. so use suitable paint, or use a big metal hood. The room upstairs has a gloss skirting board that's too hot to touch. It seems like a fire waiting to happen. Just how hot is it? What is the temp required for spontaneous combustion to occur? I think youll find those 2 temps are miles away. If not, you must have quite a furnace in there. Not an industrial monster is it? I've been having a chat with a few people at work, and it seems like the air vent at the top of the fire is too big. The vent on my fire is about A4 in size. Most people's fires seem to have smaller vents. I think the bigger the vent, the more heat is getting chucked up the flue, rather than into the room. Does that make sense? I doubt it. You havent told us which air stream goes thru the vent, so we really dont know whats there. I really think you dont know what whats going on yet, a good idea might be to draw us a diagram or pic so we know what this vent is about, and what the layout of the various bits is, including how far woodwork is from the flue. I presume you have a single walled metal flue, not double wall as is common with gas appliances. But I've still heard nothing to indicate that there is a safety problem. All I hear is its nice and hot when you expected it to be cool... NT |
#12
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![]() Thanks for all the advice. A few answers (and a result?) Yep - the fire was professionally fitted by a company. I have been told a fire was originally installed. Although it's dubious why the last owners replaced the fire with an eletric one. The wall is too hot to touch. The fire uses natural gas, with injectors I think. Not sure if any of the previous fires used injectors. I read the installation book that the fitter left behind last night. It appears that I have a pre-cast flue, meaning that I've got a load of concrete blocks with a hole in them going to the loft. Once it's at the loft, I've got a metal pipe going to the raised roof tile. The plaster has been applied directly to the concrete block, with no insulation. According to the installation book, a new standard BS EN 1858 (i think) published in 2003 says pre-cast flues must have insulation between the concrete and plaster. It also says if it doesn't have this insulation, no gas fire is suitable for the flue. (does this mean no gas fire with injectors?). Looks like I'll have to opt for a balanced flue fire, or a electric fire. As the installer fitted the wrong type of fire for our house (although it would be difficult to tell if the plaster is applied directly to the concrete during the survey), I imagine I'd be able to "do a deal" on the replacement fire. Anyone know if it's common for pre-2000 houses to have pre-cast flues with plaster stuck directly to them? |
#13
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This is what the problem is... i quote...
This appliance has been tested for use in a pre-cast block flue complying with BS 1289. In accordance with BS 1289 part 1, pre-cast flues built with directly plastered faces (front or rear) are not correctly installed as to ensure proper operation with any type of gas fire. In some instances of this flue construction, temperature cracking of the surface plaster may occur through no fault of the appliance. An air gap or some form of insulation material should be installed to prevent normal flue temperatures from damaging wall surfaces. |
#14
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![]() "Gaz" wrote in message ups.com... This is what the problem is... i quote... This appliance has been tested for use in a pre-cast block flue complying with BS 1289. In accordance with BS 1289 part 1, pre-cast flues built with directly plastered faces (front or rear) are not correctly installed as to ensure proper operation with any type of gas fire. In some instances of this flue construction, temperature cracking of the surface plaster may occur through no fault of the appliance. An air gap or some form of insulation material should be installed to prevent normal flue temperatures from damaging wall surfaces. Then you've answered the question. The flue doesn't suit any gas fire, of any type, model or structure. Either get the flue fixed, or go for an alternative means of heating. |
#15
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BigWallop wrote:
"Gaz" wrote in message ups.com.. This is what the problem is... i quote... This appliance has been tested for use in a pre-cast block flue complying with BS 1289. In accordance with BS 1289 part 1, pre-cast flues built with directly plastered faces (front or rear) are not correctly installed as to ensure proper operation with any type of gas fire. In some instances of this flue construction, temperature cracking of the surface plaster may occur through no fault of the appliance. An air gap or some form of insulation material should be installed to prevent normal flue temperatures from damaging wall surfaces. Then you've answered the question. The flue doesn't suit any gas fire, of any type, model or structure. Either get the flue fixed, or go for an alternative means of heating. I cant agree with your conclusion. Just because a new standard says new installs should be done this way to prevent any chance of the plaster cracking doesnt mean its no good. Very little in old houses meets new build regs, and they dont need to. The OP should stop getting his knickers in a twist and get on with life. Your plaster has a slight chance of craking. Oh no, not the dreaded small chance of using polyfilla! You might be able to get some money back off the fitter if its not fitted to the latest regs, enough to have it 'fixed' but why youd 'fix' it I dont know. What same person chooses to have more heat go up the chimney for no benefit? Ignorant customers can be a royal pita. NT |
#16
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![]() "Gaz" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for all the advice. A few answers (and a result?) Yep - the fire was professionally fitted by a company. CORGI Registered I presume? I have been told a fire was originally installed. Although it's dubious why the last owners replaced the fire with an eletric one. It may well be for the same reason as you will have to change yours The wall is too hot to touch. The fire uses natural gas, with injectors I think. Not sure if any of the previous fires used injectors. Injector is the term for the jet or nozzle which the gas passes through. In general all gas appliances have them I read the installation book that the fitter left behind last night. It appears that I have a pre-cast flue, meaning that I've got a load of concrete blocks with a hole in them going to the loft. Once it's at the loft, I've got a metal pipe going to the raised roof tile. The plaster has been applied directly to the concrete block, with no insulation. Therein lies your problem. You now have a decision to make. either change from a flued gas fire to one with a balanced or power flue or have the chimney breast replastered using plasterboard with dot and dab to provide an air break between the hot blockwork and the finish. According to the installation book, a new standard BS EN 1858 (i think) published in 2003 says pre-cast flues must have insulation between the concrete and plaster. It also says if it doesn't have this insulation, no gas fire is suitable for the flue. (does this mean no gas fire with injectors?). Looks like I'll have to opt for a balanced flue fire, or a electric fire. This is probably the simplest and most cost effective solution. As the installer fitted the wrong type of fire for our house (although it would be difficult to tell if the plaster is applied directly to the concrete during the survey), I imagine I'd be able to "do a deal" on the replacement fire. Good luck Anyone know if it's common for pre-2000 houses to have pre-cast flues with plaster stuck directly to them? Unfortunately its all too common. |
#17
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thanks BigWallop & John!
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#18
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Are you a retard or cowboy?
If an old granny paid =A31400 for getting a fire fitted, you can't expect her to be whipping the polyfilla out every month to repair cracks. Not to mention the having to constantly paint to the filler. |
#19
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#20
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sorry about the insult. I've just been getting it in the neck from the
misses, and getting told to "stop getting his knickers in a twist and get on with life " didn't help. Now that I know lots of other houses have similar problems, maybe I should just live with it. |
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#23
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote:
hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks -- for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...ls-179821-.htm |
#24
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 11/7/2016 5:44 PM, alison sanderson wrote:
replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks Sounds like the flue wasn't insulated. When you say hot, can you give us a temperature measurement? |
#25
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote:
replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks Bloody hell. why are you replying to a post made in *2005* ??. Do yourself a favour and install a proper newsgroup reader on your PC and select UK.d-i-y as one of your preferred groups. Class 2 flue blocks are never fitted to new properties now since 2004 when condensing boilers became mandatory. I doubt if they have been used for new builds since about 1980, and many were installed by utterly incompetent builders anyway (*) and have long since been condemned by BG. (*) Poorly made mortar joints, mortar 'snots' chucked down inside cavity and even down inside the flue blocks. |
#26
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#27
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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replying to newshound, alison sanderson wrote:
i cant but its so hot you have to draw your hand away initially , to the left and right is cold just the middle that gets hot, i have called the engineer that installed it back and will check it has been insulated , is there any special insulation or plaster i should use or will normal plaster be ok if its insulated? thank you for your help and advice -- for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/...ls-179821-.htm |
#28
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On 07/11/2016 18:54, Sam Plusnet wrote:
In article , says... On 11/7/2016 5:44 PM, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks Sounds like the flue wasn't insulated. When you say hot, can you give us a temperature measurement? It's another spamming attempt to drive traffic to that silly website. I doubt the users are party to the game - its just the way its configured to inject its URL into every post - its not something it lets you turn off. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#29
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote:
replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#30
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On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:10:20 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ Replying to more ten year old posts then! |
#31
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 08/11/2016 07:47, harry wrote:
On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:10:20 UTC, John Rumm wrote: On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. Replying to more ten year old posts then! No harry, I was replying to yesterdays post. Do try to keep up. (I know you are not good at comprehending what you read, but aside from being appended to an old thread, this was a new question. Vis: "further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted" -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#32
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![]() "John Rumm" wrote in message .. . On 08/11/2016 07:47, harry wrote: On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:10:20 UTC, John Rumm wrote: On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. Replying to more ten year old posts then! No harry, I was replying to yesterdays post. Do try to keep up. (I know you are not good at comprehending what you read, but aside from being appended to an old thread, this was a new question. Vis: "further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted" -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ Strangely, poor Alison's posting does not appear on homeownershub, despite the link to it. -- Dave W |
#33
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Dave W wrote:
Strangely, poor Alison's posting does not appear on homeownershub, despite the link to it. It probably does, but another part of the ****ed up genius of homeownershub is that all threads are sorted by date of *first* post, not date of most recent message. Consequently, when posters append their question to an ancient thread (that's been promoted by HOH), they can only find replies by searching back through the ancient threads. Tim -- Please don't feed the trolls |
#34
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On 09/11/2016 10:51, Dave W wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message .. . On 08/11/2016 07:47, harry wrote: On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:10:20 UTC, John Rumm wrote: On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. Replying to more ten year old posts then! No harry, I was replying to yesterdays post. Do try to keep up. (I know you are not good at comprehending what you read, but aside from being appended to an old thread, this was a new question. Vis: "further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted" Strangely, poor Alison's posting does not appear on homeownershub, despite the link to it. Its on the second page of the thread. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#35
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![]() "John Rumm" wrote in message ... On 09/11/2016 10:51, Dave W wrote: "John Rumm" wrote in message .. . On 08/11/2016 07:47, harry wrote: On Monday, 7 November 2016 22:10:20 UTC, John Rumm wrote: On 07/11/2016 17:44, alison sanderson wrote: replying to The Natural Philosopher, alison sanderson wrote: hi further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted and the walls are hot above the fire, what sort of insulation does it have to have special kind and what plaster is the best to have as my normal plaster is already cracking ? o any advice welcome thanks It will probably crack a bit and then stop once any residual moisture is driven off. In some respects a hot flue is good for driving more heat into the house. Replying to more ten year old posts then! No harry, I was replying to yesterdays post. Do try to keep up. (I know you are not good at comprehending what you read, but aside from being appended to an old thread, this was a new question. Vis: "further to this post jI have just had a new gas fire and pre cast flue fitted" Strangely, poor Alison's posting does not appear on homeownershub, despite the link to it. Its on the second page of the thread. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ Thanks John. I didn't spot the page index at the top as most websites put it at the bottom. I see these usenet messages are all being copied to the website. Someone needs to devise a DoS attack on it! -- Dave W |
#36
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 09/11/2016 14:55, Dave W wrote:
Thanks John. I didn't spot the page index at the top as most websites put it at the bottom. I see these usenet messages are all being copied to the website. Someone needs to devise a DoS attack on it! We have harry, wodney, phucker and all our other (on) crack posters on the case right now. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#37
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On 07/11/2016 20:44, alison sanderson wrote:
replying to newshound, alison sanderson wrote: i cant but its so hot you have to draw your hand away initially , to the left and right is cold just the middle that gets hot, i have called the engineer that installed it back and will check it has been insulated , is there any special insulation or plaster i should use or will normal plaster be ok if its insulated? thank you for your help and advice Perfectly normal. Nothing to worry about. The flue gases could be up to 250 centigrade above the flame and that heat has to go somewhere. The heating effect of the hot flue block (being part of the inner leaf of the cavity wall), allows a smaller radiator to be specified in the upstairs room that the flue passes through. downstairs, the flue blocks are generally hidden behind a false chimney breast. Minor cracking of the plaster is inevitable unless the walls have been dry-lined over the flue blocks with a small air gap between plasterboard and wall. Few builders will have bothered to do this though. |
#38
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 07/11/2016 22:08, John Rumm wrote:
It's another spamming attempt to drive traffic to that silly website. I doubt the users are party to the game - its just the way its configured to inject its URL into every post - its not something it lets you turn off. Its not just the advertising URL - it's also that the post being replied to is 11 years old. -- mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
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On 13/11/2016 15:23, alan_m wrote:
On 07/11/2016 22:08, John Rumm wrote: It's another spamming attempt to drive traffic to that silly website. I doubt the users are party to the game - its just the way its configured to inject its URL into every post - its not something it lets you turn off. Its not just the advertising URL - it's also that the post being replied to is 11 years old. That makes the OP unobservant rather than a spammer... -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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