I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks
If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
would rather not know about.

What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 10, 1:45*pm, theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. *Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Where is the moisture coming from to cause the sweating?

theedudenator wrote:
The garage is brick, then tongue and groove, then studs, then cheap
60's paneling which looks real bad.

I wanted to pull the paneling and correct any insulation problems.



On Oct 10, 3:51 pm, aemeijers wrote:
theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.
The wiring is also 1940's...
This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.
I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)
I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?
Thanks
If the paneling is in basically good shape and not horrific to look at,
I'd be inclined to disconnect the existing wiring, and abandon it in
place, and rewire with conduit on the surface. Cover the old boxes with
blank plates or the new boxes. Much easier to modify down the road, if
you or the next owner want to use the garage as a shop. It's a garage,
after all. Exposed wiring is not at all out of place. Being a garage,
there are likely to be all sorts of things living in those walls you
would rather not know about.

What sort of paneling is it anyway?1940s would likely have been T&G. If
it is the thin stuff that was popular in the 50s and 60s, no loss, but
T&G is about the best garage wall you can have.

--
aem sends...


In that case, I'd do some shopping, and build back with T&G, if I could
find a cheap source for it. Sometimes the stuff that is lower-grade than
people put in their rec rooms and saunas is available at a tolerable
price. 'Car siding' is what to ask for. Also a lot easier to install
than drywall, IMHO. Just get the starter row straight, and work out from
there. Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the
wiring (or part of it) may be as well. You are right, drywall is the
wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well.
The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff
is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that
you can hang stuff anywhere.

--
aem sends...

I am not sure about the brick. Since there are studs and tongue and
groove, I am assuming it is veneer.

Is the brick veneer, or structural? If the paneling is 1960s, the
wiring (or part of it) may be as well. *You are right, drywall is the
wrong thing for a garage with moisture issues, and OSB would be as well.
The non-paper drywall they sell for bathrooms would work, but that stuff
is pricey enough that T&G may be cheaper. Great thing about T&G is that
you can hang stuff anywhere.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 10, 2:45�pm, theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. �Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
you're done and it can be washed off easily.

Hank

Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Oct 10, 2:45�pm, theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. �Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
you're done and it can be washed off easily.

Hank

I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
that worse.

--
aem sends...

I will need to price out tongue and groove vs drywall.

If the T&G does not cost alot that is what I would prefer...


On Oct 11, 7:02*am, aemeijers wrote:
Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Oct 10, 2:45 pm, theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
you're done and it can be washed off easily.

Hank

I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
that worse.

--
aem sends...

"theedudenator" wrote in message
...
I will need to price out tongue and groove vs drywall.

If the T&G does not cost alot that is what I would prefer...


I can tell you right now T&G will be more costly than drywall ..The ceiling
of the garage however , will NEED to be 5/8 Type X drywall as it has a room
over it.....Same goes for the wall between the house and garage if
attached...You can put your T&G over the drywall on the fire wall AFTER it
has been fire taped but I'd finish tape the ceiling.......


On Oct 11, 7:02 am, aemeijers wrote:
Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Oct 10, 2:45 pm, theedudenator wrote:
I have a 2-1/2 car garage built in the 1940's
It is all brick and heavy wood, insulation and paneling.
The attic is a walk-in type and is also insulated.

The wiring is also 1940's...

This winter I plan on starting from scratch on the wiring, and rip out
the paneling.

I think due to the location and build of the garage it is prone to
sweating in the spring and summer.
I will add some ventilation and a heater (working on now)

I am a bit leary of drywall due to the moisture. Any other cost
effective options to finish the ceiling and walls after I am done with
the wiring?

Thanks

Do you like the looks of pole barn siding? I put up the metal siding
that is used for pole barns on the walls and ceiling. You can get it
in different colors, it is ordered within an inch of the length you
need and I didn't have to tape any joints, nor paint. Install and
you're done and it can be washed off easily.

Hank

I thought about recommending that, but he wants to bury the wiring in
the wall. That stuff is a pain to install around electrical boxes. Plus,
he already said he has condensation problems- metal walls will just make
that worse.

--
aem sends...

The garage is not attached.

I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
angle, tar paper then red brick.
All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.

I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just
go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
look to be clogged with insulation.
This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.

"theedudenator" wrote in message
...
The garage is not attached.

I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
angle, tar paper then red brick.
All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.

I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? Or just
go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
look to be clogged with insulation.
This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.

Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
install...LOL...Good luck...

Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
existing.

Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
install...LOL...Good luck...

"theedudenator" wrote in message
...
Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
existing.

Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock
in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8
Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house
and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle
and
install...LOL...Good luck...


Because you have living space over the garage the ceiling in the garage has
to be 5/8 Type X Fire Code Sheetrock for fire protection for the living
space above...Same goes for the wall between the garage and house IF
attached for the same reasons...Both your insurance company and Fire Code
requires it.......No ifs , ands or buts....

On Oct 11, 9:07*pm, "benick" wrote:

I can tell you right now T&G will be more costly than drywall ..The ceiling
of the garage however , will NEED to be 5/8 Type X drywall as it has a room
over it.....Same goes for the wall between the house and garage if
attached...You can put your T&G over the drywall on the fire wall AFTER it
has been fire taped but I'd finish tape the ceiling.......

Code doesn't require 5/8" Firecode ceiling in a detached garage with
an attic over it. Code only kicks in with the ceiling rating if there
is a habitable room up there.

From the IRC:
HABITABLE SPACE. A space in a building for living, sleeping, eating or
cooking. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility
spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces.

If there's no heating/plumbing/windows in the attic, it's not a
habitable room as far as the code requirement.

R

On Oct 12, 2:41*pm, theedudenator wrote:
The garage is not attached.

I ripped the side wall apart this weekend.
From the inside out, studs, 12" wide tongue and groove at 45 degree
angle, tar paper then red brick.
All of the wood looks good, the paneling and insulation was from the
60's - it is all going in the trash.

I am now planing on drywall everywhere.
Any benefit to using the moisture type drywall in bathrooms? *Or just
go with standard 5/8" and a good coat of paint.
I will be adding a furnace and correcting ventilation issues.
I have a new ridge vent in the roof, but little soffit vents, that
look to be clogged with insulation.
This will hopefully fix my moisture issues.

Hmmm. I just replied to Benick's post about the fire-rating. It's
unclear from your posts whether the bathroom and heating is for the
first floor, attic, or both.

You were asking about the garage and the work you were planning on
doing in there, and made an aside about the attic over it. Then you
mention working on adding a furnace and improving the ventilation. If
you're doing that to make the garage habitable, you don't need a fire-
rated ceiling. If the attic is storage space you don't need the fire-
rated ceiling. If the attic has no windows, it is not a legal bedroom
and not habitable in that sense. See my previous post for the
definition of habitable space.

If you/yours are planning on spending time in the attic, and it will
function as anything other than a storage/utility space, it probably
would be designated as a habitable room. In that case, I agree with
the B, and it would be better to be safe than sorry. Liability issues
and all.

Funny thing - you could put a bathroom upstairs and the rated ceiling
thing still wouldn't kick in as it's not considered a habitable
room. It's also probably a remote chance that you'd burn to death
while taking a shower, but, you never know.

R

On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 03:41:06 -0700 (PDT), theedudenator
wrote:

Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
existing.

Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8 Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle and
install...LOL...Good luck...

5/8 fire rated drywall is required if there is habitable area above a
garage.

I do not have "living" space in the garage.
It is a walk-up storage area.
A glorifed attic.

So do I still need 5/8's for code?


On Oct 13, 2:41*pm, "benick" wrote:
"theedudenator" wrote in message

...

Why is 5/8" called out on the ceilings?
I already have wood strips every 16" in both directions.
I was not planning on removing the ceiling, just drywalling over the
existing.

Unless there is a frequently used shower you don't "need " MR sheetrock
in a
bathroom...Code may say otherwise however...The only place you need 5/8
Type
X sheetrock is the ceiling of the garage and the wall between the house
and
garage...The rest can be half inch...Cheaper and MUCH easier to handle
and
install...LOL...Good luck...

Because you have living space over the garage the ceiling in the garage *has
to be 5/8 Type X Fire Code Sheetrock for fire protection for the living
space above...Same goes for the wall between the garage and house IF
attached for the same reasons...Both your insurance company and Fire Code
requires it.......No ifs , ands or buts....

So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.

Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues.
Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the
garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's)
Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car
toasty
Wood burner is to boil water
Attic is for storing X-mas crap
Attic has a window
Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof)
Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's)
Attic has a pull down stairs for access
Attic has no floor!
Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.


5/8 fire rated drywall is required if there is habitable area above a
garage.

theedudenator wrote:
So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.

Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues.
Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the
garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's)
Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car
toasty
Wood burner is to boil water
Attic is for storing X-mas crap
Attic has a window
Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof)
Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's)
Attic has a pull down stairs for access
Attic has no floor!
Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.

5/8 fire rated drywall is required if there is habitable area above a
garage.


Fix the soffit vents somehow or other. Ridge vent won't do much if there
is no way for air to get into the attic.

--
aem sends...

On Oct 13, 6:44*pm, theedudenator wrote:
So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.

Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues.
Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the
garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's)
Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car
toasty
Wood burner is to boil water
Attic is for storing X-mas crap
Attic has a window
Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof)
Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's)
Attic has a pull down stairs for access
Attic has no floor!
Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.

Wow, a dedicated beer brewing house! I'm jealous.

Reading between the lines what you described (except for the brewing)
was pretty much what I thought you meant, but I wasn't sure if you
were dancing around the issue because you were converting the garage
to an illegal rental. It happens.

If the attic has no floor you're good to go with 1/2" drywall.

R

I am also wondering if I will need to install a fan forced air vent
system?
Assuming my correcting the soffit vents does not solve the problem.

The condensation is so bad it forms puddles on the ground in the
spring.
And the garage floor does not slope to a drain. I really think the
garage was an old house at one point in time.
This really stinks in the winter with snow. I kept a large squeegee
in the garage last winter to push the melted snow out.


On Oct 13, 6:40*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Oct 13, 6:44*pm, theedudenator wrote:

So I am set on standard 1/2" drywall for the entire garage.

Improving the ventilation is to correct the condensation issues.
Water is for a sink and brewing beer (there is an existing drain the
garage floor - looks like an old toliet drain (from the 1940's)
Heater is to heat the garage - while I brew beer or keep wife's car
toasty
Wood burner is to boil water
Attic is for storing X-mas crap
Attic has a window
Attic has proper ridge vent (new roof)
Attic has old improper soffit vents (from 1940's)
Attic has a pull down stairs for access
Attic has no floor!
Garage is 75 feet away from house - separated by driveway.

Wow, a dedicated beer brewing house! *I'm jealous.

Reading between the lines what you described (except for the brewing)
was pretty much what I thought you meant, but I wasn't sure if you
were dancing around the issue because you were converting the garage
to an illegal rental. *It happens.

If the attic has no floor you're good to go with 1/2" drywall.

R

I agree... just running out of time!!



Fix the soffit vents somehow or other. Ridge vent won't do much if there
is no way for air to get into the attic.

--
aem sends...

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Oct 11, 9:07 pm, "benick" wrote:

I can tell you right now T&G will be more costly than drywall ..The
ceiling
of the garage however , will NEED to be 5/8 Type X drywall as it has a
room
over it.....Same goes for the wall between the house and garage if
attached...You can put your T&G over the drywall on the fire wall AFTER it
has been fire taped but I'd finish tape the ceiling.......

Code doesn't require 5/8" Firecode ceiling in a detached garage with
an attic over it. Code only kicks in with the ceiling rating if there
is a habitable room up there.

From the IRC:
HABITABLE SPACE. A space in a building for living, sleeping, eating or
cooking. Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, halls, storage or utility
spaces and similar areas are not considered habitable spaces.

If there's no heating/plumbing/windows in the attic, it's not a
habitable room as far as the code requirement.

R

I was under the impression you were finishing the attic , if not 1/2 inch is
fine.....You described the attic as a walk in with a window and I thought
you were putting in a bathroom up there as you asked about MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...How does one walk or store stuff in the attic with no floor ???
LOL....

There are boards laid down in the center to walk on.


I was under the impression you were finishing the attic , if not 1/2 inch is
fine.....You described the attic as a walk in with a window and I thought
you were putting in a bathroom up there as you asked about MR sheetrock in a
bathroom...How does one walk or store stuff in the attic with no floor ???
LOL....