With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?


--

http://911research.wtc7.net

With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

We use 5 1/2" baseboard. If you' re using 2 1/4 "casing", I suppose you
could ask the drywall guy to run his knife/mud along the bottom edge

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 10:22:37 -0700, "Rudy"
wrote:

With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

We use 5 1/2" baseboard. If you' re using 2 1/4 "casing", I suppose you
could ask the drywall guy to run his knife/mud along the bottom edge

Or insist he put it in vertically. Unless the basement is a full 8
feet high it is easier vertical anyway.

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 18:08:39 -0500, Mike Dobony
wrote:

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 10:22:37 -0700, Rudy wrote:

With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

We use 5 1/2" baseboard. If you' re using 2 1/4 "casing", I suppose you
could ask the drywall guy to run his knife/mud along the bottom edge

That defeats the purpose of the 1/2 inch gap, a break from the floor if it
gets wet, keeping the drywall from getting wet, deteriorating and
developing mold.
It can still be half an inch above the floor.

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 02 Sep 2009 11:42:14 -0400, Henry
wrote:


With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

As hard as I try, I cannot recall the bottom sheet having the beveled
finish edge at the floor (two full sheets exactly). We used toe-jacks
to lift the sheet up for nailing. We always had to cut the bottom
sheet for the proper width.

If you do have such a bevel, try some dense cardboard shims. A drywall
company has them in 4 foot lengths About 1.5" wide (check HD).
Intended for shimming drywall, but will work behind a baseboard.

Unless you are using 2 inch baseboard it won't be a problem...IF you are
using very narrow trim you should have told the drywall guy in the begining
to fill the bottom recess and coat all the trim screws if you also use
narrow trim around windows and doors...You could ASK the drywall guy to do
it now after the fact but you should offer a little bonus for doing so as he
probably didn't plan on crawling around the whole house filling the recess
and coating the trim screws..Or do it yourself...Pretty easy.....

Oren wrote:
Henry wrote:

With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

As hard as I try, I cannot recall the bottom sheet having the beveled
finish edge at the floor (two full sheets exactly). We used toe-jacks
to lift the sheet up for nailing. We always had to cut the bottom
sheet for the proper width.

If the wall is 8 feet high, seems like two 4 foot sheets
would fit about right. ;-) I can see a bit of trimming, but
not enough to get rid of the bevel.

If you do have such a bevel, try some dense cardboard shims. A drywall
company has them in 4 foot lengths About 1.5" wide (check HD).
Intended for shimming drywall, but will work behind a baseboard.

I'll look for those, and if they don't do the job well, I'll
just run a layer of spackle along the bottom. Thanks for all
the replies.



--

http://www.journalof911studies.com/

When I lived in Oregon we used to have a real mold problem. The way we
cleaned it was to put bleach water on it. Let set for 20 minutes - no
scrubbing. Then it will wipe off.


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

On Sep 3, 9:41*am, Henry wrote:

* I'll look for those, and if they don't do the job well, I'll
just run a layer of spackle along the bottom. Thanks for all
the replies.

The taper usually takes care of the tapered edge at the bottom. It
only takes one coat and it's the fastest and easiest way to deal with
it...unless you're the taper.

R

On Sep 2, 10:42�am, Henry wrote:
� With new construction, sheetrock is usually put up horizontally,
which means there will be a beveled edge along the floor where
the baseboard molding goes. How do I keep the molding flat with
the wall if it's nailed against the bevel on the sheet rock?

--

�http://911research.wtc7.net

It looks like it has been answered pretty thoroughly, but I'll add a
thought or two as well. You don't have to go to the floor with the
mud at the bottom, so the 1/2" gap will still be there. Remember,
too, that the mud job behind baseboard doesn't have to be as perfect
as at joints. It is only a space-taker, and will be covered by the
baseboard, so it is not something you necessarily have to have the
taper do if you are willing to run the mud yourself. Just make sure
you are level at the taper and leave the bottom gap.

The other comment about sixe of baseboard is relevant also. Larger
baseboard probably won't pose much of a problem. If you are going to
be able to caulk, that much less potential. My last comment is that
if you are able, depending on the profile of the baseboard, to shoot a
couple brads along the top, it may help close a slight gap.

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Sep 3, 9:41 am, Henry wrote:

I'll look for those, and if they don't do the job well, I'll
just run a layer of spackle along the bottom. Thanks for all
the replies.

The taper usually takes care of the tapered edge at the bottom. It
only takes one coat and it's the fastest and easiest way to deal with
it...unless you're the taper.

R

You would be WRONG...The taper does not fill the bottom recess in a "normal"
tape job...Haven't seen to many folk use something as narrow as 2 1/2 inch
for baseboard either...LOL...99.9% of the time the baseboard is 5 1/2 inches
wide or more...I think the narrowist base I've seen is 1X4 (3 1/2 inch) in
20 odd years which is still wide enough to cover the 2 1/4 inch recess...The
contractors around here don't have a problem with the recess not being
filled when using "normal" sized trim...Remember , if it is new construction
and only the subfloor is installed the finished floor will an inch or more
thicker , depending on flooring so that takes care of an inch or so of the
recess..It could be that the OP is fussing over things that won't
matter..Over thinking things a bit...JMHO...

We use 5 1/2" baseboard. If you' re using 2 1/4 "casing", I suppose you
could ask the drywall guy to run his knife/mud along the bottom edge

That defeats the purpose of the 1/2 inch gap, a break from the floor if it
gets wet, keeping the drywall from getting wet, deteriorating and
developing mold.

DONT drag the mud down onto the floor. Keep it ON THE BOARD, 1/2" above
floor.

If the wall is 8 feet high, seems like two 4 foot sheets
would fit about right. ;-) I can see a bit of trimming, but
not enough to get rid of the bevel.

Here, the basements are 9 ft so they make 54" wide rock, just for this
application..2=9'