Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Thanks,
crabshell

"crabshell" wrote in message
...
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Real baseboard, or that foam stuff? If the latter, I'd look at velcro. Only
hard part would be getting top edge to lay right, and outside corner miters
to stay tight.

aem sends...

crabshell wrote:
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Why would you have to remove the baseboards? In any event repairing
drywall is not big deal. If you're dead set on finding an
alternative, you could use an old method for attaching molding to
brick walls. Drill holes, insert wood dowel plugs, and nail into the
dowels.

R

On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:39:12 -0500, crabshell
wrote:

Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Use Ambroid Cement. Dries quick, sticks to most things, porous or
not, holds well, breaks off pretty easily when one wants to. Comes
in a small tube and a big tube. Red with a tinge of orange, and white.
VEry useful for many things.

Sometimes I glue things with a dab or two of it and then put expoxy on
afterwards, over a larger surface. Easier than trying to clamp the
parts together before or after the expoy is put on.

only available in model and hobby stores.

I would test it on a piece of scrap drywall because I've never used it
on that. It might take off the paint, but I doubt it, and certainly no
more than that. But test it.

Thanks,
crabshell

RicodJour wrote:
crabshell wrote:

I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?


Why would you have to remove the baseboards?

Maybe to replace them when they're damaged or out of style, or to adjust
the height if the flooring gets replaced?

Chris

"crabshell" wrote in message
...
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

I'd actually like to know as well... Something that will keep them in place,
but won't hold so much that they'll let go if I were to pry at them.

Definately not liquid nails... Rubber cement seems a bit on the weak side...
What to use?

On Jun 20, 3:37 am, Chris Friesen wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
crabshell wrote:

I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Why would you have to remove the baseboards?

Maybe to replace them when they're damaged or out of style, or to adjust
the height if the flooring gets replaced?

All of those can be dealt with without removing the baseboards. He's
installing new baseboard, so he should pick something that will work
for as long as he's likely to own the house.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
Maybe to replace them when they're damaged or out of style, or to adjust
the height if the flooring gets replaced?

All of those can be dealt with without removing the baseboards. He's
installing new baseboard, so he should pick something that will work
for as long as he's likely to own the house.

R


How do you add new flooring and not remove the baseboards and have it look
good?

I removed mine to put down engineered hardwood then put it back on top.
Suggestions welcomed.

crabshell wrote:
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail
it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted
up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because
removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall
too. Any ideas?

Thanks,
crabshell

Attach to the floor instead?

Pop`

On Jun 20, 10:27 am, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message
Maybe to replace them when they're damaged or out of style, or to adjust
the height if the flooring gets replaced?

All of those can be dealt with without removing the baseboards. He's
installing new baseboard, so he should pick something that will work
for as long as he's likely to own the house.

R

How do you add new flooring and not remove the baseboards and have it look
good?

I removed mine to put down engineered hardwood then put it back on top.
Suggestions welcomed.

If you're talking about horizontally, there's only one side out of
four that would normally need better access by removing baseboard, but
it's still not mandatory. There's a 1/2" of expansion space under the
baseboard, and that provides enough wiggle room to get that last strip
of flooring into place.

If you're talking about vertically, the new flooring is thicker than
the old, and there's not enough room under the baseboard, use a jamb
saw to undercut the baseboard. If the new flooring is thinner, use a
piece of lattice before applying the base shoe, or mill an extended
shoe (difference would rarely be more than 1/4" to 1/2").

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
If you're talking about vertically, the new flooring is thicker than
the old, and there's not enough room under the baseboard, use a jamb
saw to undercut the baseboard. If the new flooring is thinner, use a
piece of lattice before applying the base shoe, or mill an extended
shoe (difference would rarely be more than 1/4" to 1/2").

R

Jamb saw for 60' of baseboard? And it will look like crap anyway done like
that. Technically, yes you could do it, but removing the baseboard,
finishing/painting while it is off, and repositioning it to the proper place
is a mch more professional job. If a contractor tried to cut the basebaord
I'd kick his ass right out.

In article ,
crabshell wrote:

Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock wall.
The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail it into,
there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted up against
solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Thanks,
crabshell

What about cutting the bottom inch or two off the drywall and gluing on
a wood furring strip in its place? Then you can screw or nail your
baseboard to wood, and R & R it as often as you want.

On Jun 20, 1:02 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message
If you're talking about vertically, the new flooring is thicker than
the old, and there's not enough room under the baseboard, use a jamb
saw to undercut the baseboard. If the new flooring is thinner, use a
piece of lattice before applying the base shoe, or mill an extended
shoe (difference would rarely be more than 1/4" to 1/2").

R

Jamb saw for 60' of baseboard? And it will look like crap anyway done like
that. Technically, yes you could do it, but removing the baseboard,
finishing/painting while it is off, and repositioning it to the proper place
is a mch more professional job. If a contractor tried to cut the basebaord
I'd kick his ass right out.

Maybe we're talking at cross purposes. I don't install 3" ranch for
baseboard. I build three piece baseboards. New stuff is typically
1x6, and old stuff around here is frequently 1x8, plus trim. If
you're talking the small stuff, hell pull it all out and toss it.
Can't do that economically with the big stuff.

The jamb saw works just fine. You can go around the entire room in
ten minutes, no problem. The cut edge is hidden by molding, just like
those nasty gaps on either side of a door frame are covered by nice
casing. There's a little cleanup required in the corners after the
jamb saw, but that's hidden, too.

Done my way there is no painting other than the baseboard and new
shoe. I have yet to remove a baseboard that didn't require
substantial cleanup and repainting, and almost always touch up
painting of the wall. Sometimes you have to paint the whole wall if
you remove the baseboard. I'm not trying to make more work for
myself, even if I'm getting paid for it, unless it improves the
place. Pulling and replacing isn't improving. To me, it's just more
work.

BTW, Edwin, if you ever saw my work I strongly doubt you'd be kicking
anything but a beer back with me after the day was over. You bring
the sausage and ribs, I have a killer grill.

R

"aemeijers" wrote in
:


"crabshell" wrote in message
...
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail
it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted
up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because
removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall
too. Any ideas?

Real baseboard, or that foam stuff? If the latter, I'd look at velcro.
Only hard part would be getting top edge to lay right, and outside
corner miters to stay tight.

aem sends...




Real wood base board. Velco? How space agey...

RicodJour wrote in news:1182340386.931805.229990
@n60g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

On Jun 20, 3:37 am, Chris Friesen wrote:
RicodJour wrote:
crabshell wrote:

I'd rather not use glue/silicone because removing the
baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall too. Any ideas?

Why would you have to remove the baseboards?

Maybe to replace them when they're damaged or out of style, or to adjust
the height if the flooring gets replaced?

All of those can be dealt with without removing the baseboards. He's
installing new baseboard, so he should pick something that will work
for as long as he's likely to own the house.

R



Out of respect for a future homeowner (who will probably have a bulldozer
in this teardown neighborhood) I'd like to consider a removable baseboard.

Meat Plow wrote in
:

On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 22:39:12 -0500, crabshell wrote:

Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to
nail it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall
butted up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone
because removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the
wall too. Any ideas?

Should never need to remove baseboards.

My house was built in 1968 and I have never removed any baseboards nor
do I plan to. You can spot tack the baseboards with adhesive to the
wall if they don't have a bow facilitating an easier removal in the
future. You'd lose a little sheetrock but would still be well able to
re-attach them later.


The floor is tile. If someone wants to replace the floor some day they'll
probably tile, carpet, or hardwood over the existing, raising the level of
the floor in the process.

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article ,
crabshell wrote:

Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to
nail it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall
butted up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone
because removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the
wall too. Any ideas?

Thanks,
crabshell

What about cutting the bottom inch or two off the drywall and gluing
on a wood furring strip in its place? Then you can screw or nail your
baseboard to wood, and R & R it as often as you want.


Interesting idea. Sounds imprecise, messy, and generally more trouble than
it's worth however.

RicodJour wrote in
oups.com:

crabshell wrote:
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail
it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted
up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because
removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall
too. Any ideas?

Why would you have to remove the baseboards? In any event repairing
drywall is not big deal. If you're dead set on finding an
alternative, you could use an old method for attaching molding to
brick walls. Drill holes, insert wood dowel plugs, and nail into the
dowels.

R


Not a bad idea if it wasn't for having to go through the drywall to get to
the concrete. Talk about a lot of work. I think glue may be my only
friend here.

"RicodJour" wrote in message

Maybe we're talking at cross purposes. I don't install 3" ranch for
baseboard. I build three piece baseboards. New stuff is typically
1x6, and old stuff around here is frequently 1x8, plus trim. If
you're talking the small stuff, hell pull it all out and toss it.
Can't do that economically with the big stuff.


BTW, Edwin, if you ever saw my work I strongly doubt you'd be kicking
anything but a beer back with me after the day was over. You bring
the sausage and ribs, I have a killer grill.

R


OK, we're talking apples and oranges. With quality baseboard built up as
you do, that is possible. I forgot there is still some houses built the
"right" way. With the typical baseboard molding used today, with no shoe,
then yes, it has to be removed.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
t:


"RicodJour" wrote in message

Maybe we're talking at cross purposes. I don't install 3" ranch for
baseboard. I build three piece baseboards. New stuff is typically
1x6, and old stuff around here is frequently 1x8, plus trim. If
you're talking the small stuff, hell pull it all out and toss it.
Can't do that economically with the big stuff.


BTW, Edwin, if you ever saw my work I strongly doubt you'd be kicking
anything but a beer back with me after the day was over. You bring
the sausage and ribs, I have a killer grill.

R


OK, we're talking apples and oranges. With quality baseboard built up
as you do, that is possible. I forgot there is still some houses
built the "right" way. With the typical baseboard molding used
today, with no shoe, then yes, it has to be removed.





I may use a shoe. If so, do I need to float the baseboard off the floor
and close the gap between the floor and baseboard with the shoe?

On Jun 20, 10:55 pm, crabshell wrote:
RicodJour wrote groups.com:



crabshell wrote:
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail
it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted
up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because
removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall
too. Any ideas?

Why would you have to remove the baseboards? In any event repairing
drywall is not big deal. If you're dead set on finding an
alternative, you could use an old method for attaching molding to
brick walls. Drill holes, insert wood dowel plugs, and nail into the
dowels.


Not a bad idea if it wasn't for having to go through the drywall to get to
the concrete. Talk about a lot of work. I think glue may be my only
friend here.

You can drill into concrete, but the drywall is stopping you? Say
what?

Just glue the stuff up and quit worrying about it. You're over-
thinking it.

R

"Noozer" wrote in
news:rr5ei.41577$xq1.582@pd7urf1no:


"crabshell" wrote in message
...
Long story short, I need to attach baseboard molding to a sheetrock
wall. The problem: instead of having a 2x4 behind the drywall to nail
it into, there's concrete. So we're talking 1/2 inch drywall butted
up against solid concrete. I'd rather not use glue/silicone because
removing the baseboards some day would in theory destroy the wall
too. Any ideas?

I'd actually like to know as well... Something that will keep them in
place, but won't hold so much that they'll let go if I were to pry at
them.

Definately not liquid nails... Rubber cement seems a bit on the weak
side... What to use?



I ended up using Liquid Nails and 1-1/2" finish nails. My intention was to
let the nails penetrate the drywall to help hold the molding in place while
the Liquid nails set. To my surprise and delight, the nails actually
penetrated the concrete pretty well in most cases. The Liquid Nails adds
some assurance that the concrete won't release the nail at some point. But
I used it sparingly since the nails seemed to grab pretty well.

-crabshell