Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

And if so what type of glue would be best for outdoor use on cedar?

For example there are 7 slats to the seat back which are each fastened
with two screws at each of three levels to the curved pieces that
support it.

Also two arm rests that were each held on by three screws, now rusted,
into end grain of vertical support pieces. Not good design! And may
modify them.

Also; as either part of the original manufacture or maybe added later
are two pieces of what at first sight looked like that perforated pipe
support/hanging strapping, used hidden, where the chair back slats
meet their supports! Maybe it wasn't pipe support metal but it has
also rusted (It's an outside chair after all!) and some rust has
stained some areas, fortunately sort of out of sight on the back and
some of the black can be sanded out.

Any other advice welcome; been thinking of building such a chair from
plans, when this one was presented with its few problems, as
mentioned, during community clean up week!

Thanks for any help. It's another of those 'too good to throw away'
projects! BTW I'm going to downgrade one of the two wooden picnic
tables on our large deck to the role of only cutting up wood on.

They both came free for the effort of being collected with our pickup
as owners upgraded to fancier 'store bought' (That means imported from
China!) tables and chair sets! (You can even buy them at the s.market
with your groceries now!).

A third one was also free and a few years ago I donated it to a
divorced mother with several children. Now remarried her husband has
put a new top on that one, doing a nicer job that I would. Anyway
reuse and recycling are alive and well. And boy does it help the bank
account!

On Jul 13, 8:50*am, terry wrote:
Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

snip

Yes
orprergnadsaderbkineuhgbleakudefoodhundesshniosess iaCheck the adhesive
shelves at your box store, Titebond III is good got outdoors, and
likely several others.

Joe

On Jul 13, 9:50*am, terry wrote:
with your groceries now!).

A third one was also free and a few years ago I donated it to a
divorced mother with several children. Now remarried her husband has
put a new top on that one, doing a nicer job that I would. Anyway
reuse and recycling are alive and well. And boy does it help the bank
account!

You wouldnt believe the things I find on the curb just before trash
day. Most recently I picked up a tent that had some damaged supports.
I did a little googling and found the value of the tent was about $500
USD. A call to the manufacturer got me replacement parts for shipping
cost. I have several computers that needed very minor repairs,
microwave ovens, toys, trampolines, lots of exercise equipment
including a Bally life cycle that only needed a new battery. My
daughters GS troop has a yard sale a couple of times a year with the
girls getting to keep a portion of the sales and the rest going to the
troup. My daughter did very well this past year.

As far as glueing up furniture I like Titebond but have recently tried
Gorrila glue and I think I like it a little more for doing repairs
where the pieces may not fit so well.

Jimmie

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

I use Titebond III exterior (Green label) and screws for outdoor
woodwork
http://www.titebond.com/WNTitebondIIITB.asp

JIMMIE wrote:
....
As far as glueing up furniture I like Titebond but have recently tried
Gorrila glue and I think I like it a little more for doing repairs
where the pieces may not fit so well.
....

Resorcinol glues (Gorilla is just one brand) don't fill voids any better
or even as well as they foam rather than expand in a solid glue line.
Testing shows the bonds are mechanically weaker than either white or
yellow glues. They are fully waterproof but for anything not exposed
continuously the Type III PVA glues are adequate water resistance.

Whatever glue try to use, will have to clean the edges well and fit them
for it to have any lasting benefit.

However, probably just as well to forget the glue and use good
outdoor-rated fasteners; the cross joints and the end grain mentioned
specifically won't hold long anyway...

FWW (www.taunton.com/finewoodworking iirc) published winners of a
competition for Adirondack design (I think from the North Boston School)
a while back and there was a cover article on building a specific design
even more recently...

--

Thank you indeed for all the suggestions re Adirondack style chair
reassembly.
Dropping by shortly to view how a similar chair belonging to an
acquaintance is fastened and held together.
Cheers

"terry" wrote in message
...
Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

And if so what type of glue would be best for outdoor use on cedar?


I've had good results with Titebond III but I've also used epoxy if there
are voids that need filling. Use stainless steel screws, of course.

dpb wrote:
JIMMIE wrote:
...
As far as glueing up furniture I like Titebond but have recently
tried Gorrila glue and I think I like it a little more for doing
repairs where the pieces may not fit so well.
...

Resorcinol glues (Gorilla is just one brand) don't fill voids any
better or even as well as they foam rather than expand in a solid
glue line. Testing shows the bonds are mechanically weaker than
either white or yellow glues. They are fully waterproof but for
anything not exposed continuously the Type III PVA glues are adequate
water resistance.


Been a while since you saw or used resorcinol ?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jul 13, 9:50*am, terry wrote:
Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

And if so what type of glue would be best for outdoor use on cedar?

For example there are 7 slats to the seat back which are each fastened
with two screws at each of three levels to the curved pieces that
support it.

Also two arm rests that were each held on by three screws, now rusted,
into end grain of vertical *support pieces. Not good design! And may
modify them.

Also; as either part of the original manufacture or maybe added later
are two pieces of what at first sight looked like that perforated pipe
support/hanging strapping, used hidden, where the chair back slats
meet their supports! Maybe it wasn't pipe support metal but it has
also rusted (It's an outside chair after all!) and some rust has
stained some areas, fortunately sort of out of sight on the back and
some of the black can be sanded out.

Any other advice welcome; been thinking of building such a chair from
plans, when this one was presented with its few problems, as
mentioned, during community clean up week!

Thanks for any help. It's another of those 'too good to throw away'
projects! BTW I'm going to downgrade one of the two wooden picnic
tables on our large deck to the role of only cutting up wood on.

They both came free for the effort of being collected with our pickup
as owners upgraded to fancier 'store bought' (That means imported from
China!) tables and chair sets! (You can even buy them at the s.market
with your groceries now!).

A third one was also free and a few years ago I donated it to a
divorced mother with several children. Now remarried her husband has
put a new top on that one, doing a nicer job that I would. Anyway
reuse and recycling are alive and well. And boy does it help the bank
account!

... improper fasteners - which look like modified plaster-board
screws have rusted away.

Just curious: Modified in what way?

dadiOH wrote:
....

Been a while since you saw or used resorcinol ?

Sorry, brain cramp...can't believe I didn't catch that faux pas,
sorry....

Gorilla and the ilk are polyurethane glues...

--

On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 06:50:17 -0700 (PDT), terry
wrote:

Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

Yes, use a water resistant wood glue such as Titebond or Elmer's. The
bottle should say for exterior use. Best to clamp the joint
overnight.

On Jul 13, 6:02*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 13, 9:50*am, terry wrote:

Just curious: Modified in what way?- Hide quoted text -

Hi DD.
Several screws seemed to have tips cut or broken off!
Suspect several original screws rusted away and someone used whatever
they had on hand to try and refasten some of the back of seat slats at
the bottom (where snow and water would collect, ref metal strips, if
chair left out during the winter?) Not sure about that but seems a
reasonable assumption!
The chair as mentioned is complete but had started to fall apart when
I got it, mainly due the rusting of those screws and also due the
rusting of two strange strips of metal mounted, almost hidden behind
the middle and bottom seat back slat supports which are curved and
made of wood.
Got chance to look at a similar chair yesterday and it also has the
metal strips! Now think that the metal might be there for ease of
production; bur it led to the idea of screwing 'and gluing' the seat
back slats to their curved supports as an alternative to metal strips
that rust! Although suppose could fabricate some strips out of
stainless steel. It would involve cutting and then drilling 28 holes.
Another idea may be to drill and bolt the bottom row of seat back slat
fasteners, right through the supports, using ss bolts with the nuts
washers and countersunk.
maybe the most force is exerted, due to the design at that bottom
mounting?
The chair carries a small tacked on tin sign that says "WOOD", whether
that's the manufacturer or the material not sure.
As also mentioned this all started after had downloaded a plan for a
type of 'Adirondack' or similar named Outdoor Chair; intending to draw
it out on one inch squared paper and make one from available pine and/
or some old redwood. Then this 'slightly broken' but ostensibly
complete one showed up during a community clean up
week ................ and not wishing to waste anything!!!!!!
And like anything else it's been a learning process.
So thanks folks for the ideas and the questions.

On Jul 13, 9:29*pm, Phisherman wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 06:50:17 -0700 (PDT), terry

wrote:
Fixing up an 'Adirondack' adjustable/folding outdoor chair. And have
it substantially apart at moment prior to reassembling. Seems to be
100% clear cedar.

Wooden pieces are all there and in pretty good condx. but some
improper fasteners (which look like modified plaster-board screws have
rusted away). Am wondering if it would be good idea to also use glue
where wood meets wood?

Yes, use a water resistant wood glue such as Titebond or Elmer's. *The
bottle should say for exterior use. * Best to clamp the joint
overnight.

Yup. Thanks; joint glued and then screwed!