Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg

In article , Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

Are you sure you want to install laminate in the kitchen?
It's not a good choice -- only a matter of when (not if)
you have a spill that ruins it.

For cheap: go vinyl. The good quality ones are pretty decent.

For style: go with some kind of tile or even a natural stone.

If you must go laminate, I think you can probably finagle the
last one eigth inch but I would suggest contacting the
manufacturer of the laminate since the chances of you
invalidating the warranty are very high indeed.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article
,
Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of
8mm (3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is
5mm(1/4) thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

Are you sure you want to install laminate in the kitchen?
It's not a good choice -- only a matter of when (not if)
you have a spill that ruins it.


Water will not bother some (most? all?) laminates.* In fact, I used
left-over laminate to cover the kitchen counter-tops. Works swell. Looks
like butcher-block.

-------
As a test, I put strips of laminate in a glass of water for a MONTH! The
difference in thickness between the soaked laminate and the pristine
laminate was no more than 0.002".

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article , Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

Are you sure you want to install laminate in the kitchen?
It's not a good choice -- only a matter of when (not if)
you have a spill that ruins it.

For cheap: go vinyl. The good quality ones are pretty decent.

For style: go with some kind of tile or even a natural stone.

If you must go laminate, I think you can probably finagle the
last one eigth inch but I would suggest contacting the
manufacturer of the laminate since the chances of you
invalidating the warranty are very high indeed.

A spill will not ruin laminate unless you leave it laying there to soak
in. I have laminate in the kitchen and use a long ting rug by the sink
and dishwasher. Rug has a rubber back. Got it in Walmart.

Lou

Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.


I don't understand. If you put 5mm in the living room and 5mm in the
kitchen, you'll still have the original 8mm difference.

If you want a seamless flow from one room to the other, I'd think the
heights have to be the same. That means you either have to build up the
floor in the living room with 3/8" plywood or equivalent, rip up the
sub-floor in the kitchen, or plane down the thickness of the kitchen tiles
to 3mm.

There's one other choice that MAY work: You could bevel the intersection of
kitchen/living room (assuming the planks run in the proper direction). I did
that on a laminate/vinyl tile intersection and it allows sweeping etc. The
vinyl tile is in a closet, so no one can really see the intersection.

On Apr 6, 3:01*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. *Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. *Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. *This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). *I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

I don't understand. If you put 5mm in the living room and 5mm in the
kitchen, you'll still have the original 8mm difference.

If you want a seamless flow from one room to the other, I'd think the
heights have to be the same. That means you either have to build up the
floor in the living room with 3/8" plywood or equivalent, rip up the
sub-floor in the kitchen, or plane down the thickness of the kitchen tiles
to 3mm.

There's one other choice that MAY work: You could bevel the intersection of
kitchen/living room (assuming the planks run in the proper direction). I did
that on a laminate/vinyl tile intersection and it allows sweeping etc. The
vinyl tile is in a closet, so no one can really see the intersection.

The best way I can describe my problem is this


kitchen (with sub floor)
living room |-----------------------------------------
---------------------------|


You mention bevel....Can you give a better description of what you
mean?

In article , Greg wrote:

The best way I can describe my problem is this


kitchen (with sub floor)
living room |-----------------------------------------
---------------------------|


You mention bevel....Can you give a better description of what you
mean?

Convert the step to a ramp with some floor levelling compound.
They're generally cement-based but typically modified to allow
some movement without breaking up. Check at a flooring supply
place or even Home Depot.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

On Apr 6, 6:01*pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , Greg wrote:

The best way I can describe my problem is this

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *kitchen (with sub floor)
*living room * * * * *|-----------------------------------------
---------------------------|

You mention bevel....Can you give a better description of what you
mean?

Convert the step to a ramp with some floor levelling compound.
They're generally cement-based but typically modified to allow
some movement without breaking up. Check at a flooring supply
place or even Home Depot.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar * * * * * "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Gary Player. |
|http://www.malch.com/* * * * * * * Shpx gur PQN. * * * * * * * *|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


If adding 1/4" cork to the living room leaves the kitchen 1/8" higher,
then why not put down something else like plywood that's 3/8" instead
of cork? Is cork a recommended material per the manufacturer of the
laminate?

"Greg" wrote in message
...
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer installation
instruction will dictate if you should have one or not. The different
humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring contract/expand at
different rates. Depending on your opening to your kitchen, most
manufacturers require a T @ doorways, depending on the size of the opening.

I agree - laminate does not stain easily.

I would just take and put a room divider between the two rooms. I will
still make the rooms run together, because if it similar flooring. But
it will make a distinction between the rooms.

Other than that - the difference over time could compromise the boards.
So you would have to put in a sub floor in the other room to match.


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg

Pull up the vinyl in the kitchen, or go with thin plywood underlayment
rather than cork in the living room. (BTW, the subfloor is the bottom
layer, not the middle layer, of a floor.)

Personally, I hate the look of laminate- real hardwood or nothing for
me- but whatever floats your boat.

--
aem sends...

Greg wrote:
On Apr 6, 3:01 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of
8mm (3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is
5mm(1/4) thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the
other.

I don't understand. If you put 5mm in the living room and 5mm in the
kitchen, you'll still have the original 8mm difference.

If you want a seamless flow from one room to the other, I'd think the
heights have to be the same. That means you either have to build up
the floor in the living room with 3/8" plywood or equivalent, rip up
the sub-floor in the kitchen, or plane down the thickness of the
kitchen tiles to 3mm.

There's one other choice that MAY work: You could bevel the
intersection of kitchen/living room (assuming the planks run in the
proper direction). I did that on a laminate/vinyl tile intersection
and it allows sweeping etc. The vinyl tile is in a closet, so no one
can really see the intersection.

The best way I can describe my problem is this


kitchen (with sub floor)
living room |-----------------------------------------
---------------------------|


You mention bevel....Can you give a better description of what you
mean?

Yeah, like this
kitchen
_______
___________/
Living room

Cooper wrote:

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer installation
instruction will dictate if you should have one or not. The different
humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring contract/expand at
different rates.

Not always. Depends on the laminate. Some are completely impervious to
humidity. Might as well be concrete.

Depending on your opening to your kitchen, most
manufacturers require a T @ doorways, depending on the size of the
opening.

In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
Cooper wrote:

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer installation
instruction will dictate if you should have one or not. The different
humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring contract/expand at
different rates.

Not always. Depends on the laminate. Some are completely impervious to
humidity. Might as well be concrete.

That is true of some of the new products with a composite substrate.
However, they are pretty darn expensive. I can buy good quality
0.75 inch solid exotic hardwood for about the same cost per sq ft!

Hardwood in the living room, tile or stone in the kitchen. Looks
great and has been working great for hundreds of years!

Call me cynical but I'm cautious with new materials having had
the misfortune to observe some close-up disasters with vinyl
siding, aluminum wiring, etc. They sounded great in theory too ;-)

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Cooper wrote:

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer installation
instruction will dictate if you should have one or not. The different
humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring contract/expand at
different rates.

Not always. Depends on the laminate. Some are completely impervious to
humidity. Might as well be concrete.

Name one laminate where the installation instructions says humidity is not
a factor when installing. Take Armstrong for example, check out page 8.
http://www.armstrong.com/content2/resam/files/32613.pdf

I'm certified by the top 2 manufacturers for installing, so I believe I
know what I'm talking about.

Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?

I would.

If so, how do I get them to match up?

Put a layer of 1/8" ply (or hardboard?) under the cork.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Cooper wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Cooper wrote:

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer
installation instruction will dictate if you should have one or
not. The different humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring
contract/expand at different rates.

Not always. Depends on the laminate. Some are completely impervious
to humidity. Might as well be concrete.

Name one laminate where the installation instructions says humidity
is not a factor when installing. Take Armstrong for example, check
out page 8. http://www.armstrong.com/content2/resam/files/32613.pdf

I'm certified by the top 2 manufacturers for installing, so I believe
I know what I'm talking about.

You can only repeat what the "top 2 manufacturers" told you. A modicum of
research says differently.


"The specially treated Aqua-Protect core board guarantees lasting
durability, even when installed in rooms with high humidity, such as
kitchens and bathrooms. The AquaProtect core board provides built-in
resistance to the harmful effects of water or liquid spills. If it does get
dirty, elastoclic is a cinch to clean. No harsh chemicals or cleaning agents
are necessary."
http://www.witexusa.com/cgi-bin/vm_u...35&el=36037668

" Kronotex, the number two manufacturer of laminates according to Consumer
Report, has several floors that are made using a green-core, making them
impervious to moisture."
http://www.bestfloor.net/index.php?m...id=4&chapter=1

"...perfectly recreate the lifelike look, feel and texture of real timbers
while ensuring added stability and resistance even when exposed to intensive
traffic and humidity conditions."
http://www.flooring2floors.co.uk/wal...-flooring.html

Also Eggers Flooring has humidity-resistant and waterproof laminates.

Now who are you going to believe - manufacturer's spec sheets or my own
lying eyes? I soaked some laminate in a jug of water for a MONTH and its
thickness changed by 0.002"! (which is probably within the error range of my
micrometer). And it was CHEAP laminate (78¢/sq ft on sale for 69¢).

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Cooper wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Cooper wrote:

You may not want to install a T, however the manufacturer
installation instruction will dictate if you should have one or
not. The different humidity levels in rooms make laminate flooring
contract/expand at different rates.

Not always. Depends on the laminate. Some are completely impervious
to humidity. Might as well be concrete.

Name one laminate where the installation instructions says humidity
is not a factor when installing. Take Armstrong for example, check
out page 8. http://www.armstrong.com/content2/resam/files/32613.pdf

I'm certified by the top 2 manufacturers for installing, so I believe
I know what I'm talking about.

You can only repeat what the "top 2 manufacturers" told you. A modicum of
research says differently.


"The specially treated Aqua-Protect core board guarantees lasting
durability, even when installed in rooms with high humidity, such as
kitchens and bathrooms. The AquaProtect core board provides built-in
resistance to the harmful effects of water or liquid spills. If it does
get dirty, elastoclic is a cinch to clean. No harsh chemicals or cleaning
agents are necessary."
http://www.witexusa.com/cgi-bin/vm_u...35&el=36037668

" Kronotex, the number two manufacturer of laminates according to
Consumer Report, has several floors that are made using a green-core,
making them impervious to moisture."
http://www.bestfloor.net/index.php?m...id=4&chapter=1

"...perfectly recreate the lifelike look, feel and texture of real
timbers while ensuring added stability and resistance even when exposed
to intensive traffic and humidity conditions."
http://www.flooring2floors.co.uk/wal...-flooring.html

Also Eggers Flooring has humidity-resistant and waterproof laminates.

Now who are you going to believe - manufacturer's spec sheets or my own
lying eyes? I soaked some laminate in a jug of water for a MONTH and its
thickness changed by 0.002"! (which is probably within the error range of
my micrometer). And it was CHEAP laminate (78¢/sq ft on sale for 69¢).

Glad you brought up Kronotex. I suggest you read their own site. Also an
FYI, humidity resistant, does not mean it's humidity proof.

"Kronotex like all laminate flooring is made from high density fiber board
which responds to temperature and humidity. Even the trip from the store to
your house could expose the planks to a different environment. Therefore,
BEFORE opening the packaging please acclimate all planks for 48 hours by
laying each box horizontally and individually in the center of the room, in
which they are to be installed"

"Room Humidity max 75% (35% - 75%"
http://www.kronotexusa.com/faq.htm

LOL.....on how much your test showed. You do realize, it does not even take
that much moisture to buckle a floor.

Why do you think floating floors, must be installed as a floating floor?
Hint: because it contracts & expands. Maybe you should argue with all the
manufacturers, apparently they are wrong, according to you.

Another FYI....Aqua-Protect core board, is not the typical density fiber
board, you might well posted a link to vinyl or concrete. It is made for
the commercial end user, not residential. Please try to keep OT.

I have no desire to read your other link from the UK, until their flooring
reaches the USA.

Now, I'm not going to believe you over manufacturers, no matter what your
eyes tell you. You should not be giving out information on subjects you
know nothing about.

aemeijers;2932167 Wrote:
Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of
8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg

Pull up the vinyl in the kitchen, or go with thin plywood underlayment
rather than cork in the living room. (BTW, the subfloor is the bottom
layer, not the middle layer, of a floor.)

Personally, I hate the look of laminate- real hardwood or nothing for
me- but whatever floats your boat.

--
aem sends...
Not all laminate looks like wood anymore. I put some in my kitchen,
bedroom and laundry room that looks like stone.

You want the breaks in it, because it allows the expanding and
contracting of the laminate. So if you have the different and make it a
seem - it works well. I did not have the problems with different levels
and had to do this between rooms, because the laminate needs this give.


--
Dymphna
Message origin: www.TRAVEL.com

On Apr 7, 9:55*am, Dymphna
wrote:
aemeijers;2932167 Wrote:



Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. *Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. *Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. *This has created a height difference of
8mm
(3/8). *I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg

Pull up the vinyl in the kitchen, or go with thin plywood underlayment
rather than cork in the living room. (BTW, the subfloor is the bottom
layer, not the middle layer, of a floor.)

Personally, I hate the look of laminate- real hardwood or nothing for
me- but whatever floats your boat.

--
aem sends...

Not all laminate looks like wood anymore. I put some in my kitchen,
bedroom and laundry room that looks like stone.

You want the breaks in it, because it allows the expanding and
contracting of the laminate. So if you have the different and make it a
seem - it works well. I did not have the problems with different levels
and had to do this between rooms, because the laminate needs this give.

--
Dymphna
Message origin:www.TRAVEL.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, all this talk is all interesting and nice, but it doesn't answer
my initial question. I have already decided to put laminate in the
kitchen. I am aware of the issues and concerns, and I made an
educated decision, derived from a number of resources. I will be
putting a sealent on the joints and caulking around the edging to help
keep the water out. In the event of a flood (dishwasher, etc), it
won't matter what flooring I have, it'll be ruined.

My original question is how do do get the laminate to flow from the
living room to the kitchen? There will be about a 4mm difference
(kitchen being higher). The boards will be running straight through
the opening.

This way:
| |
opening ] | | [
| |

Not This Way:
--------------------
] ---------------[
-------------------

TIA,
Greg

"Greg" wrote in message
...
On Apr 7, 9:55 am, Dymphna
wrote:
aemeijers;2932167 Wrote:



Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of
8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg

Pull up the vinyl in the kitchen, or go with thin plywood underlayment
rather than cork in the living room. (BTW, the subfloor is the bottom
layer, not the middle layer, of a floor.)

Personally, I hate the look of laminate- real hardwood or nothing for
me- but whatever floats your boat.

--
aem sends...

Not all laminate looks like wood anymore. I put some in my kitchen,
bedroom and laundry room that looks like stone.

You want the breaks in it, because it allows the expanding and
contracting of the laminate. So if you have the different and make it a
seem - it works well. I did not have the problems with different levels
and had to do this between rooms, because the laminate needs this give.

--
Dymphna
Message origin:www.TRAVEL.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, all this talk is all interesting and nice, but it doesn't answer
my initial question. I have already decided to put laminate in the
kitchen. I am aware of the issues and concerns, and I made an
educated decision, derived from a number of resources. I will be
putting a sealent on the joints and caulking around the edging to help
keep the water out. In the event of a flood (dishwasher, etc), it
won't matter what flooring I have, it'll be ruined.

My original question is how do do get the laminate to flow from the
living room to the kitchen? There will be about a 4mm difference
(kitchen being higher). The boards will be running straight through
the opening.

This way:
| |
opening ] | | [
| |

Not This Way:
--------------------
] ---------------[
-------------------

TIA,
Greg

---

1: boards generally expand across their width and not their length, if they
do at all. if you trap the boards in the doorway, plan on it buckling there.

2: if your dishwasher floods the kitchen, tile or stone won't be affected.

3: either raise the living room floor or lower the kitchen floor if you want
single boards to flow from one room to another.

there is no magic bullet that will levitate the living room floor or lower
the kitchen floor for you.

On Mon, 6 Apr 2009 12:18:56 -0700 (PDT), Greg
wrote:

Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of 8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.

Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?

I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.

TIA,
Greg


Well, why not use 3/8" thick cork instead of the 1/4"? Also, there
is 3/8" thick ply flooring. Personlly, I'd fuss with a 4 foot level
and low-angle work light to get the floor reasonably flat and smooth.
Bumps and dips will telescope through the laminate for all to see.

On Apr 7, 2:14*pm, Greg wrote:
My original question is how do do get the laminate to flow from the
living room to the kitchen? *There will be about a 4mm difference
(kitchen being higher). *The boards will be running straight through
the opening.

Umm, make it so there isn't a difference. Build up the living room
floor by 4mm so both floors are even with each other. That is what
anybody with a lick of common sense would do.

What is so damned difficult about that concept?

"Cooper" wrote in message
...

Another FYI....Aqua-Protect core board, is not the typical density fiber
board, you might well posted a link to vinyl or concrete. It is made for
the commercial end user, not residential.


Heh.... Even Aqua Protect installation wants a expansion gap. The
installation instructions want you to separate the rooms at doorways with a
suitable profile.

Like I initially said, the manufacturer dictates what is supposed to be
done.

http://www.witex.com/imgs//downloads...laminat-gb.pdf

Greg wrote:
On Apr 7, 9:55 am, Dymphna
wrote:
aemeijers;2932167 Wrote:



Greg wrote:
Hi,
I am wanting to install laminate flooring in my living room and
continue into my kitchen. Currently, we have carpet in the living
room and linoleum in the kitchen. Of course the kitchen has a sub
floor under the linoleum. This has created a height difference of
8mm
(3/8). I am putting cork down in the living room which is 5mm(1/4)
thick.
Here are my questions:
Do I have to worry about the 3mm (1/8) height difference?
If so, how do I get them to match up?
I do not want to install a T as the rooms flow from one to the other.
TIA,
Greg
Pull up the vinyl in the kitchen, or go with thin plywood underlayment
rather than cork in the living room. (BTW, the subfloor is the bottom
layer, not the middle layer, of a floor.)
Personally, I hate the look of laminate- real hardwood or nothing for
me- but whatever floats your boat.
--
aem sends...
Not all laminate looks like wood anymore. I put some in my kitchen,
bedroom and laundry room that looks like stone.

You want the breaks in it, because it allows the expanding and
contracting of the laminate. So if you have the different and make it a
seem - it works well. I did not have the problems with different levels
and had to do this between rooms, because the laminate needs this give.

--
Dymphna
Message origin:www.TRAVEL.com- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, all this talk is all interesting and nice, but it doesn't answer
my initial question. I have already decided to put laminate in the
kitchen. I am aware of the issues and concerns, and I made an
educated decision, derived from a number of resources. I will be
putting a sealent on the joints and caulking around the edging to help
keep the water out. In the event of a flood (dishwasher, etc), it
won't matter what flooring I have, it'll be ruined.

My original question is how do do get the laminate to flow from the
living room to the kitchen?

How old is the kitchen vinyl? If put down in last 10-15 years, odds are
it is only edge-glued and will come up pretty easy. With the layer of
mushy stuff that goes under laminate, the floor under it doesn't have to
be perfect- you could probably get the vinyl up and scrape the high
spots smooth enough in a couple of hours. That will get most of your
height difference solved right there.

And no, there are lots of kitchen floors that are pretty much
dishwasher-proof if properly installed, as long as it doesn't sit wet
for days. Make sure new floor goes under the dishwasher so you don't
trap it, and it doesn't present a raw edge to soak up water when it
leaks. You want a nice tight smooth floor and caulked bottom edges of
the dishwasher space, so leaks immediately run out into the room where
you will notice them, instead of hiding under the cabinets.

--
aem sends...

Cooper wrote:

Now, I'm not going to believe you over manufacturers, no matter what
your eyes tell you. You should not be giving out information on
subjects you know nothing about.

Whatever.

My (admittedly) limited experience, plus my scientifically-controlled
experiments, plus the official pronouncements from SOME laminate
manufacturers are at variance with your no doubt heartfelt opinions.

aemeijers wrote:

And no, there are lots of kitchen floors that are pretty much
dishwasher-proof if properly installed, as long as it doesn't sit wet
for days. Make sure new floor goes under the dishwasher so you don't
trap it, and it doesn't present a raw edge to soak up water when it
leaks. You want a nice tight smooth floor and caulked bottom edges of
the dishwasher space, so leaks immediately run out into the room where
you will notice them, instead of hiding under the cabinets.

Oooo! Good idea!

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

Cooper wrote:

Now, I'm not going to believe you over manufacturers, no matter what
your eyes tell you. You should not be giving out information on
subjects you know nothing about.

Whatever.

My (admittedly) limited experience, plus my scientifically-controlled
experiments, plus the official pronouncements from SOME laminate
manufacturers are at variance with your no doubt heartfelt opinions.

I don't think your experiment was scientifically controlled. You soaked
a piece of flooring in a glass of water, but it wasn't a double-blind
test. You should have had someone else put two pieces of flooring in two
glasses, only one of which contained actual water. The other, placebo
water. Then, without knowing which was which, you evaluate them for
swelling and damage. Sheesh.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Cooper wrote:

Now, I'm not going to believe you over manufacturers, no matter what
your eyes tell you. You should not be giving out information on
subjects you know nothing about.

Whatever.

My (admittedly) limited experience, plus my scientifically-controlled
experiments, plus the official pronouncements from SOME laminate
manufacturers are at variance with your no doubt heartfelt opinions.

It's my opinion is, the manufacturers know best, that's exactly what I
pointed out.

It appears it's your heartfelt opinion is getting in the way of facts.

You're wrong about "SOME laminate manufacturers are at variance with my
opinion", I clearly pointed that out with links to those manufacturers on
their installation instructions. You should try reading instructions
sometime, then you won't make a fool out of yourself.

I have to admit, your "scientifically-controlled experiment, had me almost
****ing my pants, I was laughing so hard. Thanks!

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

Cooper wrote:

Now, I'm not going to believe you over manufacturers, no matter what
your eyes tell you. You should not be giving out information on
subjects you know nothing about.

Whatever.

My (admittedly) limited experience, plus my scientifically-controlled
experiments, plus the official pronouncements from SOME laminate
manufacturers are at variance with your no doubt heartfelt opinions.

I don't think your experiment was scientifically controlled. You
soaked a piece of flooring in a glass of water, but it wasn't a
double-blind test. You should have had someone else put two pieces of
flooring in two glasses, only one of which contained actual water.
The other, placebo water. Then, without knowing which was which, you
evaluate them for swelling and damage. Sheesh.

You raise a good point. Still, one has to work with what one has. I tried my
best to be objective.

I placed - or more accurately did not remove - the control strips in their
original box.

Double-blind studies are not always possible. When testing whether
force-feeding a rat five pounds of pickles per day to determine whether so
doing causes lethargy, it's simply not possible to feed another rat a mock
pickle without the experimenter knowing the difference. And probably the
rat, too.

Cooper wrote:
..

My (admittedly) limited experience, plus my scientifically-controlled
experiments, plus the official pronouncements from SOME laminate
manufacturers are at variance with your no doubt heartfelt opinions.

It's my opinion is, the manufacturers know best, that's exactly what I
pointed out.

It appears it's your heartfelt opinion is getting in the way of facts.

You're wrong about "SOME laminate manufacturers are at variance with
my opinion", I clearly pointed that out with links to those
manufacturers on their installation instructions. You should try
reading instructions sometime, then you won't make a fool out of
yourself.
I have to admit, your "scientifically-controlled experiment, had me
almost ****ing my pants, I was laughing so hard. Thanks!

I'm a genuine male. We do not read instructions. We always have parts left
over (I call them "spares") and the result of our labors will outlast the
pyramids.

Females - and female impersonators - dote on instructions, use every part in
the bag, plus bits of string, and the result collapses the instant it is
finished.

I await your call for help, but I'm telling you in advance that a hug is out
of the question.