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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair for
old Radio Shack equipment?


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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:24:26 -0800, "Zootal"
wrote:

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair for
old Radio Shack equipment?

Do you know Spanish?

http://support.radioshack.com/produc...Scopes&Reuse=N
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 14:24:26 -0800, "Zootal" wrote:

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair for
old Radio Shack equipment?


A definite source? No. Doubt one exists.

I'd take it apart, see if you can spot the problem. If not an easy fix, try
sci.electronics.repair. Someone there might know something we don't.

Good Luck,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

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"Zootal" wrote in message
...
I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm
pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and
repair for old Radio Shack equipment?


Depends upon what is wrong with the meter. It could be as simple as a blown
internal fuse or something that would cost more to fix than the meter is
worth.

Parts would be available at Radio Shack, or online:
http://www.allelectronics.com/
http://www.jameco.com
http://www.alliedelec.com/


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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:35:34 -0500, "DesignGuy"
wrote:


"Zootal" wrote in message
m...
I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack


I don't know there part numbers by heart. What exactly is this.
Digital, with a needle?

about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm
pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and
repair for old Radio Shack equipment?


What he said. What's wrong with it? Does it work at all?

Is one setting not working? That could be a burned out resistor. It
might say on the resistor what the value is, but if that part might be
burned off. You maybe can measuere the resistor for the settings on
either side, and the one burnt out with be the, I forget what you call
it, but if the ones left are 20 ohms, 200, 20000, 200K, the one in the
middle that is burned out is 2000.

Also www.mouser.com . Most parts don't have to come from Radio
Shack.

Depends upon what is wrong with the meter. It could be as simple as a blown
internal fuse or something that would cost more to fix than the meter is
worth.

Parts would be available at Radio Shack, or online:
http://www.allelectronics.com/
http://www.jameco.com
http://www.alliedelec.com/




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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

On 2/27/2009 4:39 PM mm spake thus:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:35:34 -0500, "DesignGuy"
wrote:

"Zootal" wrote in message
...

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio
Shack


I don't know there part numbers by heart. What exactly is this.
Digital, with a needle?

about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old
I'm pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of
parts and repair for old Radio Shack equipment?


What he said. What's wrong with it? Does it work at all?

Is one setting not working? That could be a burned out resistor. It
might say on the resistor what the value is, but if that part might be
burned off. You maybe can measuere the resistor for the settings on
either side, and the one burnt out with be the, I forget what you call
it, but if the ones left are 20 ohms, 200, 20000, 200K, the one in the
middle that is burned out is 2000.


Problem is, you can't just drop a new resistor into a meter and call it
done. The resistors inside them are high-precision: at least 1%,
sometimes more, and sometimes weird, completely non-standard values.
(You might get lucky and be able to replace one, but that's not a sure
thing.)

We need to hear from the O.P. just what's wrong with the unit.

Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
On 2/27/2009 4:39 PM mm spake thus:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:35:34 -0500, "DesignGuy"
wrote:

"Zootal" wrote in message
...

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio
Shack


I don't know there part numbers by heart. What exactly is this.
Digital, with a needle?

about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old
I'm pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of
parts and repair for old Radio Shack equipment?


What he said. What's wrong with it? Does it work at all? Is one
setting not working? That could be a burned out resistor. It
might say on the resistor what the value is, but if that part might be
burned off. You maybe can measuere the resistor for the settings on
either side, and the one burnt out with be the, I forget what you call
it, but if the ones left are 20 ohms, 200, 20000, 200K, the one in the
middle that is burned out is 2000.


Problem is, you can't just drop a new resistor into a meter and call it
done. The resistors inside them are high-precision: at least 1%, sometimes
more, and sometimes weird, completely non-standard values. (You might get
lucky and be able to replace one, but that's not a sure thing.)

We need to hear from the O.P. just what's wrong with the unit.

Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


I wouldn't mind having an old Simpson. Those things are bricks - you can use
them in place of a hammer and they still work

So - the fuse is not blown. The unit turns on (it's digital), display
appears. I switch to ohms, the display shows 11M with the leads
disconnected. If I plug in a set of test leads and squeeze the tips with my
fingers, it shows an erratic display, indicating that it's trying to do
something. I put a 12k resister across the leads, and it shows 10.00M with
the ones digit flashing off and on. All other settings result in -1000v with
the one flashing on and off. I put a battery across it, nothing. I put the
leads across a 120vac source, nothing. It is effectively non-responsive
except in ohms mode. There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high
quality unit to start with, and there are only a handfull of components in
it. There is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.
But it belonged to my Father and it has some sentimental value. I'm willing
to give it a shot.

The 22-166A is a small digital only meter. It has five settings, DC V, AC V,
ohms, diode test, 200mA. There are no other settings or controls.


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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

Zootal wrote:

I wouldn't mind having an old Simpson. Those things are bricks - you
can use them in place of a hammer and they still work

So - the fuse is not blown. The unit turns on (it's digital), display
appears. I switch to ohms, the display shows 11M with the leads
disconnected. If I plug in a set of test leads and squeeze the tips
with my fingers, it shows an erratic display, indicating that it's
trying to do something. I put a 12k resister across the leads, and it
shows 10.00M with the ones digit flashing off and on. All other
settings result in -1000v with the one flashing on and off. I put a
battery across it, nothing. I put the leads across a 120vac source,
nothing. It is effectively non-responsive except in ohms mode. There
isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to start
with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There is no
obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not. But it
belonged to my Father and it has some sentimental value. I'm willing
to give it a shot.
The 22-166A is a small digital only meter. It has five settings, DC
V, AC V, ohms, diode test, 200mA. There are no other settings or
controls.


Uh, have you replaced the battery?


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On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:04:15 -0800, "Zootal"
wrote:


"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...
On 2/27/2009 4:39 PM mm spake thus:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:35:34 -0500, "DesignGuy"
wrote:

"Zootal" wrote in message
...

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio
Shack

I don't know there part numbers by heart. What exactly is this.
Digital, with a needle?

about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old
I'm pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of
parts and repair for old Radio Shack equipment?

What he said. What's wrong with it? Does it work at all? Is one
setting not working? That could be a burned out resistor. It
might say on the resistor what the value is, but if that part might be
burned off. You maybe can measuere the resistor for the settings on
either side, and the one burnt out with be the, I forget what you call
it, but if the ones left are 20 ohms, 200, 20000, 200K, the one in the
middle that is burned out is 2000.


Problem is, you can't just drop a new resistor into a meter and call it
done. The resistors inside them are high-precision: at least 1%, sometimes
more, and sometimes weird, completely non-standard values. (You might get
lucky and be able to replace one, but that's not a sure thing.)

We need to hear from the O.P. just what's wrong with the unit.

Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


I wouldn't mind having an old Simpson. Those things are bricks - you can use
them in place of a hammer and they still work

So - the fuse is not blown. The unit turns on (it's digital), display
appears. I switch to ohms, the display shows 11M with the leads
disconnected. If I plug in a set of test leads and squeeze the tips with my
fingers, it shows an erratic display, indicating that it's trying to do
something. I put a 12k resister across the leads, and it shows 10.00M with
the ones digit flashing off and on.


If a digit is flashing off and on, get away from it. it's going to
explode.

All other settings result in -1000v with
the one flashing on and off.


Hurry!!!!

I put a battery across it, nothing. I put the
leads across a 120vac source, nothing. It is effectively non-responsive
except in ohms mode. There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high
quality unit to start with, and there are only a handfull of components in
it. There is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.
But it belonged to my Father and it has some sentimental value. I'm willing
to give it a shot.

The 22-166A is a small digital only meter. It has five settings, DC V, AC V,
ohms, diode test, 200mA. There are no other settings or controls.

I see now that it's flashing on and off. That's not dangerous at all.
I thought you said it was flashing off and on. That's when you have to
worry.

I have saved everything my father had too, that my mother had saved.
His shaving kit bag has been my sewing kit bag for the last 45 years.

I have his cane from 1936 Shriner's convention. His fez from some
other Mason or Shriner event. His shirt collar, from the days when
shirt collars were separate from the shirt. His spats. And his
diplomas on the wall from 1912 (high school) and dental school. Etc.

I would want to save this too, but I can't help you fix it.
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On 2/27/2009 6:04 PM Zootal spake thus:

There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to
start with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There
is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.


You've answered your own question there. Probably the majority of the
circuit, including what's damaged, is in one ASIC (application-specific
integrated circuit). Not a replaceable part.

Get a new meter.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair


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wrote in message
...
On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:17:10 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/27/2009 6:04 PM Zootal spake thus:

There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to
start with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There
is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.


You've answered your own question there. Probably the majority of the
circuit, including what's damaged, is in one ASIC (application-specific
integrated circuit). Not a replaceable part.

Get a new meter.



I agree this is likely an ASIC. I'd suggest cleaning the pots inside
as a possible fix, and clean the switch too.


Maybe it's not as old as I thought. I cut my teeth back then TTL was
TheNextBigThing and these surface mount new fangled things hadn't been
invented yet. I still have a couple hundred old 14 and 16 pin TTL chips
laying around. This meter has the NJU9207F, and I don't have the equipment
to replace it. sigh....


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On 2/27/2009 11:46 PM AZ Nomad spake thus:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:16:58 -0600,
wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:17:10 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:


On 2/27/2009 6:04 PM Zootal spake thus:

There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to
start with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There
is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.

You've answered your own question there. Probably the majority of
the circuit, including what's damaged, is in one ASIC
(application-specific integrated circuit). Not a replaceable
part.

Get a new meter.


I agree this is likely an ASIC. I'd suggest cleaning the pots
inside as a possible fix, and clean the switch too.


Pots? Have you seen inside a DMM made in the last twenty years?
They don't have any potentiometers.

The only thing worth checking is the battery connection and the fuse.

Otherwise, replace the part called "DMM". Runs about $10 and is a 100%
replacement.


$10? I got my last one for *$3* at Harbor Freight! Has more functions
than the O.P.'s broken one.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

Zootal wrote:
I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair for
old Radio Shack equipment?


Hi,
RS never sold a meter worth fixing. Just chuck it if you can find a
problem inside like worn out battery or fuse. I saw a digital meter with
clamp on AC current probe for 9.99 in a local store.
My meters are Fluke, Amprobe, and Simpson.


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Default Repairing old Radio Shack equipment

On Feb 27, 8:04*pm, "Zootal" wrote:
"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message

.com...





On 2/27/2009 4:39 PM mm spake thus:


On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 18:35:34 -0500, "DesignGuy"
wrote:


"Zootal" wrote in message
news:A7idnSv0pLqI9TXUnZ2dnUVZ_hiWnZ2d@giganews. com...


I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio
Shack


I don't know there part numbers by heart. *What exactly is this.
Digital, with a needle?


about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old
I'm pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of
parts and repair for old Radio Shack equipment?


What he said. *What's wrong with it? *Does it work at all? *Is one
setting not working? *That could be a burned out resistor. It
might say on the resistor what the value is, but if that part might be
burned off. *You maybe can measuere the resistor for the settings on
either side, and the one burnt out with be the, I forget what you call
it, but if the ones left are 20 ohms, 200, 20000, 200K, the one in the
middle that is burned out is 2000.


Problem is, you can't just drop a new resistor into a meter and call it
done. The resistors inside them are high-precision: at least 1%, sometimes
more, and sometimes weird, completely non-standard values. (You might get
lucky and be able to replace one, but that's not a sure thing.)


We need to hear from the O.P. just what's wrong with the unit.


Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


I wouldn't mind having an old Simpson. Those things are bricks - you can use
them in place of a hammer and they still work

So - the fuse is not blown. The unit turns on (it's digital), display
appears. I switch to ohms, the display shows 11M with the leads
disconnected. If I plug in a set of test leads and squeeze the tips with my
fingers, it shows an erratic display, indicating that it's trying to do
something. I put a 12k resister across the leads, and it shows 10.00M with
the ones digit flashing off and on. All other settings result in -1000v with
the one flashing on and off. I put a battery across it, nothing. I put the
leads across a 120vac source, nothing. It is effectively non-responsive
except in ohms mode. There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high
quality unit to start with, and there are only a handfull of components in
it. There is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.
But it belonged to my Father and it has some sentimental value. I'm willing
to give it a shot.

The 22-166A is a small digital only meter. It has five settings, DC V, AC V,
ohms, diode test, 200mA. There are no other settings or controls.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


All those symptoms add up to a high probability of a bad lead,
probably the black one. Hold the plugs and pull on the wire. If you
see any stretching of the insulation, that's where the break is at.
Red
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"Zootal" wrote:
Maybe it's not as old as I thought. I cut my teeth back then TTL was
TheNextBigThing and these surface mount new fangled things hadn't been
invented yet. I still have a couple hundred old 14 and 16 pin TTL chips
laying around. This meter has the NJU9207F, and I don't have the equipment
to replace it. sigh....


I have the 22-166B model, which I bought back in the mid nineties IIRC.
Still works, although I've gone through a few sets of leads and fuses on it
of course. There was also an incident with a battery that leaked solution
all over the inside of the thing, but after cleaning it up it's still
running strong.

Not my primary meter any longer, but I still use it when I need to use
multiple meters to measure something.

Jon


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"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote:
I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm
pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and
repair for old Radio Shack equipment?

Hi,
RS never sold a meter worth fixing.


RS hasn't sold much of *anything* worth fixing for a very long time. I
stopped buying Radio Shack products years ago because I got tired of them
breaking or otherwise going bad. A long time ago Made In Japan products used
to have a bad reputation (ok, I'm dating myself). Now it's the made in China
stuff, which is just about everything in Radio Shack, is even worse.

I took the thing apart, and found two pots I need to check. I have a
half-dozen meters already, so I think I'll put this back on a shelf with the
rest of the stuff I don't have time to sort through.


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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:30:33 -0800, Zootal wrote:

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote:
I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm
pretty much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and
repair for old Radio Shack equipment?

Hi,
RS never sold a meter worth fixing.


RS hasn't sold much of *anything* worth fixing for a very long time. I
stopped buying Radio Shack products years ago because I got tired of them
breaking or otherwise going bad. A long time ago Made In Japan products used
to have a bad reputation (ok, I'm dating myself). Now it's the made in China
stuff, which is just about everything in Radio Shack, is even worse.


With chinese stuff, it depends on the engineering. The engineering of the
product and of the manufacturing process is rarely chinese.

Radio shack like the lipstickonapig approach. The crappiest products, but
with a pretty case.
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On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:16:58 -0600, wrote:

On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:17:10 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/27/2009 6:04 PM Zootal spake thus:

There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to
start with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There
is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.


You've answered your own question there. Probably the majority of the
circuit, including what's damaged, is in one ASIC (application-specific
integrated circuit). Not a replaceable part.

Get a new meter.



I agree this is likely an ASIC. I'd suggest cleaning the pots inside
as a possible fix, and clean the switch too.

Otherwise..........

Im no fan of Ebay, and I dont even use ebay, so I am not recommending
this,
but I did a search for this model and ran across this one on ebay.
This is the model 22-168a
Probably very similar but the next upgrade model.

Keep the original one for sentimental reasons, (remove the batteries).

Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


Here's the parts list

-----------------

http://support.radioshack.com/suppor...oc21/21589.htm

220-0166B DIGITAL MULTIMETER Faxback Doc. #
21589

To order parts call 1-800-843-7422 or visit your local RadioShack
store.

Reference # Cat.No. Description NP Part #
------------------------------------------------------------------------
11334687 2SD400
10529378 REPLACED BY 2SD400 2TR1067
DUE TO COST OF UNIT. AA0000X
C13 12237004 CAP CER 50V .1UF +-10
CDR104KJBC
12237004 AFTER DATE CODE 5A7
CDR104KJBC
10589745 CX0171
11290558 DB0946
10623197 DX0587
D003 D004 D005 D006 10623593 DIODE LL4148 FAST RECT DX0702
10623593 DX0702
10698454 HF1249
10769370 ROTARY SWITCH K3006
10846400 MANUAL,USERS 22-166A
MU2200166A
IC001 10871028 IC,NJU9207F C-MOS AC/DC MX0421
10871028 MX0421
VR002 10972040 POT,SEMI-FIXED 10KB P6013
10972040 P6013
VR001 10972511 POT,2KB SEMI-FIXED P6141
10972511 P6141
PO001 11053410 POSISTOR RX0012
11053410 RX0012
SW002 11054343 SWITCH,SLIDE POWER S0078
11054343 S0078
SW001 11054350 SWITCH,ROTARY RANGE S0079
11054350 S0079
11115185 W3417
11222502 WINDOW PVC SILK Z7104
11222510 LABEL WARNING STICKER Z7108

(This list was generated on 07/08/2005)



Good luck




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Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


The old Simpson meters (c. 1960) weren't particulaly accurate. Their
accuracy was expressed as "Percent of full scale."

Thus, if you measured a nominal 10 volts on the 100 volt scale, your reading
could be up to 1 volt in error with a 1% full scale accuracy meter. Use a
2% meter (Most Simpsons were 2%), and you can be off by 20% on a 10 volt
measurement on the wrong scale.

I didn't take that seriously until I had to make a LOT of measurements on
microwave diodes and found that my "simpson" meter readings were so
inaccurate as to make my data worthless.

You can pick up a digital meter from Harbor Freight for less than $5 that's
more accurate than any "analog" meter.

You might want to keep the old meter around as a curiosity (or in case you
fear that WWIII will fry everything electronics) but except for "fun"
purposes, they aren't worth fixing.


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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:22:25 -0500, mm wrote:
On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:16:58 -0600, wrote:


On Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:17:10 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/27/2009 6:04 PM Zootal spake thus:

There isn't much to this thing - it was not a high quality unit to
start with, and there are only a handfull of components in it. There
is no obvious sign of damage. Is it worth fixing? Probably not.

You've answered your own question there. Probably the majority of the
circuit, including what's damaged, is in one ASIC (application-specific
integrated circuit). Not a replaceable part.

Get a new meter.



I agree this is likely an ASIC. I'd suggest cleaning the pots inside
as a possible fix, and clean the switch too.

Otherwise..........

Im no fan of Ebay, and I dont even use ebay, so I am not recommending
this,
but I did a search for this model and ran across this one on ebay.
This is the model 22-168a
Probably very similar but the next upgrade model.

Keep the original one for sentimental reasons, (remove the batteries).

Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


Some dweeb will buy it for 50 cents more than your maximum bid in the last
3 seconds of the auction. Happens every single time.

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"John Gilmer" wrote in message
net...



Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


The old Simpson meters (c. 1960) weren't particulaly accurate. Their
accuracy was expressed as "Percent of full scale."


We used a lot of them for maintenance on various pieces of government
equipment. They were accurate enough for what we were using them for.
Filiment voltage...6.2v...close enough for me...anode voltage 150v...close
enough for government work


You can pick up a digital meter from Harbor Freight for less than $5
that's more accurate than any "analog" meter.


Like many old timers, I cut my teeth on analog meters, and I still prefer
them to digital meters. When I'm working on house wiring, I usually use some
digital clamp on thing made for electricians. But when I'm working on my
rf/audio gear, I'll take the analog meter any day.


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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:13 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:


Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


What I meant was, if it once had Buy it Now, why doesn't it have it
anymore?

Some dweeb will buy it for 50 cents more than your maximum bid in the last
3 seconds of the auction. Happens every single time.


I have had that. A totally new bidder outbid me with 2 seconds left.

On another occasion, I wasn't crazy about something, but would have
bought it if I had known I'd be the only bidder, for 5 dollars. But
no one bid on it! Two weeks later it was back, and it seemed likely
no one woudl bid, but I still worried about those 3 second guys.

But I was the only bidder.

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"John Gilmer" wrote in
net:




Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.


The old Simpson meters (c. 1960) weren't particulaly accurate. Their
accuracy was expressed as "Percent of full scale."

Thus, if you measured a nominal 10 volts on the 100 volt scale, your
reading could be up to 1 volt in error with a 1% full scale accuracy
meter. Use a 2% meter (Most Simpsons were 2%), and you can be off by
20% on a 10 volt measurement on the wrong scale.

I didn't take that seriously until I had to make a LOT of measurements
on microwave diodes and found that my "simpson" meter readings were so
inaccurate as to make my data worthless.

You can pick up a digital meter from Harbor Freight for less than $5
that's more accurate than any "analog" meter.

You might want to keep the old meter around as a curiosity (or in case
you fear that WWIII will fry everything electronics) but except for
"fun" purposes, they aren't worth fixing.




the DMMs from Harbor Freight are only 1 megohm input Z.
any good DMM is at least 10 MegR.
And the first one I had measured a 1.5V alkaline cell at 1.8 volts.
I would NOT rely on them for accuracy.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


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On 2/28/2009 3:13 PM mm spake thus:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:13 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:

Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


What I meant was, if it once had Buy it Now, why doesn't it have it
anymore?

Some dweeb will buy it for 50 cents more than your maximum bid in the last
3 seconds of the auction. Happens every single time.


I have had that. A totally new bidder outbid me with 2 seconds left.


You do know about sniping, right?


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 18:13:07 -0500, mm wrote:
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:13 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:



Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


What I meant was, if it once had Buy it Now, why doesn't it have it
anymore?


somebody bid on it. After the first bit, buy-it-now goes away.
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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 21:01:36 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 18:13:07 -0500, mm wrote:
On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:13 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:



Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090

4+ hours left now, but there is no Buy it Now. I didn't think that
would happen, especially since it's still only 1 bidder at 30 dollars.


What I meant was, if it once had Buy it Now, why doesn't it have it
anymore?


somebody bid on it. After the first bit, buy-it-now goes away.


I get it. That sounds vaguely familiar. Thanks.
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On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:24:59 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/28/2009 3:13 PM mm spake thus:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:51:13 -0600, AZ Nomad
wrote:

Get a new one for use. Maybe this one.
Currently no bids, $30 starting bid, Buy it now $50
$7 shipping.
18 hours left
Ebay Item number: 110354829090


Some dweeb will buy it for 50 cents more than your maximum bid in the last
3 seconds of the auction. Happens every single time.


I have had that. A totally new bidder outbid me with 2 seconds left.


You do know about sniping, right?


So that's what you call it. I guess I know now. Thanks.

I looked it up and it seems there is also software to do this. That
would account for how they are able to make it so close to the end.
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On 28 Feb 2009 23:45:25 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:


the DMMs from Harbor Freight are only 1 megohm input Z.
any good DMM is at least 10 MegR.


I know where I can get you 9Megs cheap.

And the first one I had measured a 1.5V alkaline cell at 1.8 volts.
I would NOT rely on them for accuracy.


I'll give you a good price for those 0.3 volts, cash on the
barrelhead.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik




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On 2/28/2009 7:33 PM mm spake thus:

On Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:24:59 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/28/2009 3:13 PM mm spake thus:

I have had that. A totally new bidder outbid me with 2 seconds left.


You do know about sniping, right?


So that's what you call it. I guess I know now. Thanks.

I looked it up and it seems there is also software to do this. That
would account for how they are able to make it so close to the end.


In fact, that's the only way to do it. (I suppose if you had a
super-high-speed connection that was reliable, and had lightning-quick
reflexes, you *could* do it manually.)


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair
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Jim Yanik wrote:
"John Gilmer" wrote in
net:


Besides, it may be that it just isn't worth it to fix it. Radio Shack
(Micronta) multimeters are mediocre quality at best. Better to get a
*real* meter, like an old Simpson, Triplett, etc.

The old Simpson meters (c. 1960) weren't particulaly accurate. Their
accuracy was expressed as "Percent of full scale."

Thus, if you measured a nominal 10 volts on the 100 volt scale, your
reading could be up to 1 volt in error with a 1% full scale accuracy
meter. Use a 2% meter (Most Simpsons were 2%), and you can be off by
20% on a 10 volt measurement on the wrong scale.

I didn't take that seriously until I had to make a LOT of measurements
on microwave diodes and found that my "simpson" meter readings were so
inaccurate as to make my data worthless.

You can pick up a digital meter from Harbor Freight for less than $5
that's more accurate than any "analog" meter.

You might want to keep the old meter around as a curiosity (or in case
you fear that WWIII will fry everything electronics) but except for
"fun" purposes, they aren't worth fixing.




the DMMs from Harbor Freight are only 1 megohm input Z.
any good DMM is at least 10 MegR.
And the first one I had measured a 1.5V alkaline cell at 1.8 volts.
I would NOT rely on them for accuracy.

Hi,
Too high input Z is some times not prefered.
Unless you work on digital circuits exclusive.
For that I use scope.
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RS never sold a meter worth fixing. Just chuck it if you can find a
problem inside like worn out battery or fuse. I saw a digital meter with
clamp on AC current probe for 9.99 in a local store.
My meters are Fluke, Amprobe, and Simpson.


They haven't made anything worth fixing?

Try 22-174B and 22-220
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In article ,
"Zootal" wrote:

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair for
old Radio Shack equipment?


35 posts and no one mentioned bad leads. They're the most likely part of
a meter to fail. Did you ohm them out with another meter?
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"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Zootal" wrote:

I have an old Radio Shack multi meter, 22-166A. I talked to Radio Shack
about betting it fixed, and they said that for something this old I'm
pretty
much out of luck. Does anyone here know of a source of parts and repair
for
old Radio Shack equipment?


35 posts and no one mentioned bad leads. They're the most likely part of
a meter to fail. Did you ohm them out with another meter?


Yah. I did the broken-meter 101 stuff like using known good leads and known
good batteries, etc.

Actually, someone did mention bad leads, and new batteries, none of which
helped.


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