Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins?? This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.

On Dec 13, 12:41*am, doug wrote:
Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins?? *This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.

Me... for one.
-----

- gpsman

On Dec 12, 10:48*pm, gpsman wrote:
On Dec 13, 12:41*am, doug wrote:

Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins?? *This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.

Me... for one.
*-----

- gpsman


I would appreciate the name of the GLUE product and any hints on using
it. I am building one wall 32 feet long and 11 feet high..

Thanks in advance.

Doug Clark

I would not consider glue the proper fastening method for metal
track. Depending on the installation, it would not meet code
either. Panel adhesive would probably work, but why would you not
fasten it in a more conventional manner? The fastening method is
subject to what the materials are that you are fastening to. The
concrete floor would use either PAT (gun loads) or an alternate
concrete anchor like Tapcon, Nail-In, wire & nail, etc.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"doug" wrote in message
...
On Dec 12, 10:48 pm, gpsman wrote:
On Dec 13, 12:41 am, doug wrote:

Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins??
This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.

Me... for one.
-----

- gpsman


I would appreciate the name of the GLUE product and any hints on
using
it. I am building one wall 32 feet long and 11 feet high..

Thanks in advance.

Doug Clark

Why Glue?

I live in a condo.

I plan to do the work myself

The condo rules say that I must get permission if I invade the ceiling
or floors or the walls of the ajoining units.

This would mean:

* hiring it done

* getting a building permit

* hiring a electrical contractor

* maybe even a architect plan

I do not need to invade the walls of the adjoining units and will
secure the abuting walls with screws.

Hopfully I can get by telling them that I am not invading the walls,
ceiling and floor as well as I am doing the work myself

Thanks

Doug Clark

On Dec 12, 11:41*pm, doug wrote:
Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins?? *This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.

Google: epoxy construction adhesives and there will be several
interesting sources for you to contact. Most any 2-part slow cure
systems will work just fine on concrete. Polyurethane construction
adhesive/sealants are a good second choice, but the epoxy-concrete
bond is stronger. Care must be taken to ensure the metal is clean and
grease free, probably the most fussy part of the project.

Joe

doug wrote:
Why Glue?

I live in a condo.

I plan to do the work myself

The condo rules say that I must get permission if I invade the ceiling
or floors or the walls of the ajoining units.

This would mean:

* hiring it done

* getting a building permit

* hiring a electrical contractor

* maybe even a architect plan

I do not need to invade the walls of the adjoining units and will
secure the abuting walls with screws.

Hopfully I can get by telling them that I am not invading the walls,
ceiling and floor as well as I am doing the work myself

Thanks

Doug Clark
BTDT, dividing off an 'L' end of a living room in a rental, to make an
extra bedroom. Just made a 'jam fit' wall, shimmed as tight as I could
against the floor and ceiling. Used non-marking rubber over the top
plate, and just went over the existing carpet. Managed to find a pretty
good match for the 1960s style paneling, so it vanished pretty well.
Came out clean- once the carpet divot was brushed out, you could not
tell it had been there. It was only 8' high by about 10' long, though.
Not sure you could pull off the same thing with metal studs and plates,
since you can't kick the slightly-too long end studs into place. Maybe
if you bury some extra-long skinny screw jacks in the wall every 8 feet
or so?

No, it won't meet code, but if that really isn't a concern where you
live, it may work. (as long as nobody stumbles too hard into the middle
of the wall.) A couple short cross walls framing some shelves or
something would stiffen it up a bunch.
--
aem sends...

On Dec 12, 11:41*pm, doug wrote:
Is anyone know about using GLUE rather than screws or pins?? *This is
in connection to building a interior non load bearing wall.


I glue the wall stud plates to concrete when remodelling basements
that have water tubing imbedded in the concrete slab (for heat). To
not risk imbedding a fastener in the heat tubing. A polyurethane
adhesive holds as tight as any other fastener, probably better, just
put some blocks or sandbags on the work while it is curing. I once
had to remove a wall plate I glued in the wrong place... by the time I
got it peeled from the floor it took a divot of concrete with it (glue
was stronger). Glue would not be an invasion, but in my opinion some
2.5 inch drywall screws to hold your wall plates down/up would not be
an intrusion either as they are not going to pop into your neighbors
condo.

My nephew, the PE, just came by. He suggested GORILLA GLUE.

Has anyone tried this product for bonding metal to concrete?

Thanks

Doug Clark

On Dec 17, 12:00*am, doug wrote:
My nephew, the PE, just came by. *He suggested GORILLA GLUE.

Has anyone tried this product for bonding metal to concrete?

Thanks

Doug Clark

No thats the wrong glue. Look for PL polyurethane construction
adhesive. The PL brand is better than Liquid Nails, (which is an
excellent glue too). But for what you are describing I'd use PL.
Personally I would still shoot some screws if you can, the intrusion
of a few screws is no worse than hanging a picture IMO and should not
violate the HOA.

On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 22:00:29 -0800 (PST), doug
wrote:

My nephew, the PE, just came by. He suggested GORILLA GLUE.

Has anyone tried this product for bonding metal to concrete?

Gorilla Glue really does work, but it's expensive. Liquid Nails is
supposed to work, for less $.

On Dec 17, 4:10*pm, KLS wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 22:00:29 -0800 (PST), doug

wrote:

My nephew, the PE, just came by. *He suggested GORILLA GLUE.

Has anyone tried this product for bonding metal to concrete?

Gorilla Glue really does work, but it's expensive. *Liquid Nails is
supposed to work, for less $. *


Gorilla glue might be strong but it is very liquid and would not stay
in place, a tubed construction adhesive will stay on the ceiling while
he applies the stud.