American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. Current at 26
should be between 17-20

Should this be replaced? Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.


If it should is it something a DIY can do. The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. I could see it glow
when he was showing me. Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. Is it a plug and play part?

Your input would be appreciated.

On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:
American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). *I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. *Current at 26
should be between 17-20

Should this be replaced? *Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.

If it should is it something a DIY can do. *The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. *I could see it glow
when he was showing me. *Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. *Is it a plug and play part?

Your input would be appreciated.

Poor connections on the typical service company supplied ohmmeter can
give a high reading. If it glows bright and works right now, use the
time to acquire a spare. The changeout isn't all that difficult as you
will find in this NG archives. Repairclinic.com (maybe, haven't
checked) and other online sources will have civilized prices. Good luck

On Dec 10, 12:10*pm, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:





American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). *I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. *Current at 26
should be between 17-20

Should this be replaced? *Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.

If it should is it something a DIY can do. *The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. *I could see it glow
when he was showing me. *Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. *Is it a plug and play part?

Your input would be appreciated.

Poor connections on the typical service company supplied ohmmeter can
give a high reading. If it glows bright and works right now, use the
time to acquire a spare. The changeout isn't all that difficult as you
will find in this NG archives. Repairclinic.com (maybe, haven't
checked) and other online sources will have civilized prices. Good luck

yup, I had an ignitor fail on my furnace shortly after purchasing
current residence and I purchased a replacement (actually two; one to
keep on the shelf) from Trible's locally for about $30 each IIRC.
Once I located it (mine had fully failed, so I couldn't use the
"follow the glow" method to locate it) it was about a 10 minute swap
out. It'll cost a lot more to have someone else do it because of
truck charges etc.

nate

On Dec 10, 11:10*am, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:



American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). *I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. *Current at 26
should be between 17-20

Should this be replaced? *Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.

If it should is it something a DIY can do. *The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. *I could see it glow
when he was showing me. *Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. *Is it a plug and play part?

Your input would be appreciated.

Poor connections on the typical service company supplied ohmmeter can
give a high reading. If it glows bright and works right now, use the
time to acquire a spare. The changeout isn't all that difficult as you
will find in this NG archives. Repairclinic.com (maybe, haven't
checked) and other online sources will have civilized prices. Good luck

The above advice is good. I am a middle-of-the-road DIYer and
have replaced the ignitor on my furnace a couple times. The part was
available at a local HVAC supply place for about $35. Yes it was
pretty much plug and play. Your part/mileage may vary. -- H

Your igniter is fine. The tech, knowing you are gullible because you
bought a service contract (it, like an annual inspection, is not
needed), is lying to get even more money out of you.

On Dec 10, 11:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:
American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). *I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. *Current at 26
should be between 17-20


I didn't even know you could use an Ohm meter to check current...?
Learn something new everyday I guess.

Only way I know to check the ignitors is with an Amp meter.

Limp Arbor wrote:
On Dec 10, 11:48 am, Brent Bolin wrote:
American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. Current at 26
should be between 17-20


I didn't even know you could use an Ohm meter to check current...?
Learn something new everyday I guess.

Only way I know to check the ignitors is with an Amp meter.


It's just a matter of wording. When was the last time you saw an ohm
meter that didn't also have volts, amps, and other functions? Multimeter
or VOM would have been a more correct term but whatever. For the current
to be too high, the resistance in ohms of the igniter would have to be
too low, assuming of course that the voltage driving it is correct. If
it still lights the flame I would leave it alone, although picking up a
spare to have on hand would be worthwhile.

On Dec 10, 11:10*am, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:



American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). *I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. *Current at 26
should be between 17-20

Should this be replaced? *Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.

If it should is it something a DIY can do. *The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. *I could see it glow
when he was showing me. *Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. *Is it a plug and play part?

Your input would be appreciated.

Poor connections on the typical service company supplied ohmmeter can
give a high reading. If it glows bright and works right now, use the
time to acquire a spare. The changeout isn't all that difficult as you
will find in this NG archives. Repairclinic.com (maybe, haven't
checked) and other online sources will have civilized prices. Good luck

Civilized.... I think I'd call it rape. Anyway thanks all, will take
your advice and purchase myself. Will probably pull the skins off so
I can see where the igniter actually is.

Thanks

btb

Brent Bolin wrote:
On Dec 10, 11:10 am, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48 am, Brent Bolin wrote:



American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.
Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). I have a contract with this company.
The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. Current at 26
should be between 17-20
Should this be replaced? Really don't want the furnace to be out in
the middle of February.
If it should is it something a DIY can do. The contract company will
do it, but charge $205.00 just for parts (that's with a discount).
This part appears to be kinda like a glow plug. I could see it glow
when he was showing me. Couldn't really tell where the part was
actually located. Is it a plug and play part?
Your input would be appreciated.
Poor connections on the typical service company supplied ohmmeter can
give a high reading. If it glows bright and works right now, use the
time to acquire a spare. The changeout isn't all that difficult as you
will find in this NG archives. Repairclinic.com (maybe, haven't
checked) and other online sources will have civilized prices. Good luck

Civilized.... I think I'd call it rape. Anyway thanks all, will take
your advice and purchase myself. Will probably pull the skins off so
I can see where the igniter actually is.

Thanks

btb


The exact design depends on the furnace, but it will be right next to
the gas nozzles. If you pull the cover off and start up the furnace,
you'll see the igniter glow bright orange for a few seconds before the
gas clicks on and the flame ignites. Normally held in by a single screw.
While you're replacing it, take a few minutes to clean off the flame
sensor if it uses the wire probe ionization type, those tend to soot up
from time to time and result in shutdown.

I suspect it's a typo. The OP meant to type "currently" More than one way to
check an ignitor.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
On Dec 10, 11:48 am, Brent Bolin wrote:
American Standard Freedom 80 single stage.

Just had the company out this morning to do maintenance on my furnace
(cleaning and checking). I have a contract with this company.

The tech informed me the ignitor is ohming out high. Current at 26
should be between 17-20


I didn't even know you could use an Ohm meter to check current...?
Learn something new everyday I guess.

Only way I know to check the ignitors is with an Amp meter.

Like everyone says, this is a plug and play repair. Just make sure to
pay attention to any heat shields you may remove to make sure you get
them back facing the same direction. I've heard of a few cases where
the shielding was installed wrong and the furnace kept burning out
ignitors.

6 ohm difference is not enough to justify replacement. You can get
that much difference between two brands of meters.

On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:03:29 -0800 (PST), Brent Bolin
wrote:

On Dec 10, 11:10*am, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:



Civilized.... I think I'd call it rape. Anyway thanks all, will take
your advice and purchase myself. Will probably pull the skins off so
I can see where the igniter actually is.

Thanks

btb

I'd ditch any company that told me my ignitor was "ohming out high". i
do this stuff for a living and have more cerificates/training than you
can throw a stick at. while maintenance is always a good thing on your
system, an ignitor ohming out high is pure B.S. Your service company
is just using it's chance to do maintenance on your system to sell you
something, period. I would bet you that their techs are paid on
commision, they don't sell you something, they get nothing or a very
small fee for the maintenance. I'd fire them and demand they refund my
money because they are crooks. If you continue to do business with
them you will find this out for sure.

A couple of points on replacing hot surface ignitors--I have heard that
you should not touch the actual ignitor surface ( oil from your fingers
can damage it), and have also heard that is not true. Regardless, it
sure couldn't help one, so to be safe. just handle it by the block only.
Also, after you get it in place, check VERY carefully, using a mirror if
necessary, that the ignitor is not touching the burner or heat
exchanger. Last yeaar I replaced one on a Trane ( same thing as American
Standard), didn't notice that somehow it was touching one or the other,
and when it came on it looked like an arc welder. Luckily I didn't fry
the board along with the ignitor. About two years ago I went out on a
8-9 y/o Janitrol on a Sunday morning that another company had been to
the night before. The same thing had happened to them. They actually
charged the people a service call and left. They took the ignitor off
and took it with them. I put a new one on and found it wasn't getting
any power to it. Fried the board and I didn't have a new one. It was
real cold and the people had a very young infant. They were real close
to my house, so I went home and took the board out of my Janitrol
furnace and gave it to them-- just charged a service call and the
ignitor. I've gotten several boards since then from furnaces we have
replaced and one of these days will get around to sticking one of them
back into my furnace. I have dual fuel heat pumps and just stuck a relay
on it for the blower. Probably change the filter when I do the board
too. The old adage about the shoemaker's kids-- Larry

On Dec 11, 6:48*am, Bubba wrote:
On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 19:10:42 -0800, Nate Certified Haeting and Cooling



Professional wrote:
On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:03:29 -0800 (PST), Brent Bolin
wrote:

On Dec 10, 11:10*am, Joe wrote:
On Dec 10, 10:48*am, Brent Bolin wrote:

Civilized.... I think I'd call it rape. *Anyway thanks all, will take
your advice and purchase myself. *Will probably pull the skins off so
I can see where the igniter actually is.

Thanks

btb

I'd ditch any company that told me my ignitor was "ohming out high". i
do this stuff for a living and have more cerificates/training than you
can throw a stick at. while maintenance is always a good thing on your
system, an ignitor ohming out high is pure B.S. Your service company
is just using it's chance to do maintenance on your system to sell you
something, period. I would bet you that their techs are paid on
commision, they don't sell you something, they get nothing or a very
small fee for the maintenance. I'd fire them and demand they refund my
money because they are crooks. If you continue to do business with
them you will find this out for sure.

Your certificates and training dont impress me a bit. You need to
learn before cracking your mouth. An igniter CAN be check for problems
by ohming it out. Ive owned my own hvac business for 25 yrs now and
worked for one of the high pressure hvac companies for 2 of those
years. Ive seen it all but I havent seen everything. Everyday is a new
day. Personally, I think selling a new igniter because it ohms out
high is a little over the top but thats the way some do it. I dont. I
also think the price the poster received from the company is a bit
high but I think my prices are high too. They have to be. Keeping a
business afloat these days is VERY EXPENSIVE. Think about it. Does a
medical doctor come to your home with his operating room to remove
your appendix? NO, yet hvac companies do everything including complete
replacement in your home. I think thats pretty damn good and worth a
lot. Could you imagine if your furnace broke, you called any/all hvac
repair companies and they all said, "Sure, we will be happy to repair
if for you. Just bring it in *3 weeks from now and we will happy to
have a look?"
Maybe you should take the stick you are throwing and hit yourself with
it a few times. *:-)
Bubba

1. That's why I posted this info to this group
2. I also have my own consulting service. And I'm not cheap. Cheaper
for personal. Corporate, hang on for the ride
3. Thank God for this group

btb

On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 22:01:38 -0600, (Lp1331 1p1331)
wrote:

A couple of points on replacing hot surface ignitors--I have heard that
you should not touch the actual ignitor surface ( oil from your fingers
can damage it), and have also heard that is not true. Regardless, it
sure couldn't help one, so to be safe. just handle it by the block only.
Also, after you get it in place, check VERY carefully, using a mirror if
necessary, that the ignitor is not touching the burner or heat
exchanger. Last yeaar I replaced one on a Trane ( same thing as American
Standard), didn't notice that somehow it was touching one or the other,
and when it came on it looked like an arc welder. Luckily I didn't fry
the board along with the ignitor. About two years ago I went out on a
8-9 y/o Janitrol on a Sunday morning that another company had been to
the night before. The same thing had happened to them. They actually
charged the people a service call and left. They took the ignitor off
and took it with them. I put a new one on and found it wasn't getting
any power to it. Fried the board and I didn't have a new one. It was
real cold and the people had a very young infant. They were real close
to my house, so I went home and took the board out of my Janitrol
furnace and gave it to them-- just charged a service call and the
ignitor. I've gotten several boards since then from furnaces we have
replaced and one of these days will get around to sticking one of them
back into my furnace. I have dual fuel heat pumps and just stuck a relay
on it for the blower. Probably change the filter when I do the board
too. The old adage about the shoemaker's kids-- Larry


There are at least 2 technologies used for hot surface ignitors - and
the most common one is appently totally intollerant of abuse and more
expensive than the other one. One is silicon carbide, the other
silicon nitride. The silicon nitride is supposed to last 2 or 3 times
as long as the carbide.

On Dec 11, 8:32*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 22:01:38 -0600, (Lp1331 1p1331)
wrote:



A couple of points on replacing hot surface ignitors--I have heard that
you should not touch the actual ignitor surface ( oil from your fingers
can damage it), and have also heard *that is not true. Regardless, it
sure couldn't help one, so to be safe. just handle it by the block only.
Also, after you get it in place, check VERY carefully, using a mirror if
necessary, that the ignitor is not touching the burner or heat
exchanger. Last yeaar I replaced one on a Trane ( same thing as American
Standard), didn't notice that somehow it was touching one or the other,
and when it came on it looked like an arc welder. Luckily I didn't fry
the board along with the ignitor. *About two years ago I went out on a
8-9 y/o Janitrol on a Sunday morning that another company had been to
the night before. The same thing had happened to them. They actually
charged the people a service call and left. They took the ignitor off
and took it with them. I put a new one on and found it wasn't getting
any power to it. Fried the board and I didn't have a new one. It was
real cold and the people had a very young infant. They were real close
to my house, so I went home and took the board out of my Janitrol
furnace*and gave it to them-- just charged a service call and the
ignitor. I've gotten several boards since then from furnaces we have
replaced and one of these days will get around to sticking one of them
back into myfurnace. I have dual fuel heat pumps and just stuck a relay
on it for the blower. Probably change the filter when I do the board
too. The old adage about the shoemaker's kids-- * Larry

There are at least 2 technologies used for hot surface ignitors - and
the most common one is appently totally intollerant of abuse and more
expensive than the other one. One is silicon carbide, the other
silicon nitride. *The silicon nitride is supposed to last 2 or 3 times
as long as the carbide.

Ok I have pulled the skins off the furnace and trying to purchase a
spare igniter.

American Standard Freedom 80 single stage
M/N ADD060C924F0

The part number on the igniter looks to be B340971. I have not been
able to find this number.

Found this link - http://www.hvacmechanic.com/forums/r...ages/18970.htm

Last post on the page says this -

I was able to find a dealer in town that had the part. The part#
B340971 is outdated and has been replaced with part number IGN 00117.
The parts look totally different. The new style has a bracket that
mounts a much smaller ceramic housing. It's self explanitory once you
attempt to install, (not so much when you go to pick up the part :-)


As mentioned above the igniter looks different. Has the same style
probe, but the base is different(skinny). Also comes with a different
mounting bracket. The current base on the existing igniter is a
fairly large ceramic square. Electrical connection gender is correct.

Is this the correct replacement? If it is, any suggestions on where
to purchase. Pricey part.

Thanks.