I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?
The perimeter would be concrete of course.

It seems like it would be little different, functionally. Or am I
nuts !

Cheers -

wrote:
I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?
The perimeter would be concrete of course.

It seems like it would be little different, functionally. Or am I
nuts !

Cheers -

No significant cost savings, and increased chance of frost heave for the
poured footers and foundation stub walls, due to water ponding and
freezing against them. I'd skimp on the driveway, instead.

--
aem sends...

Our detached was gravel for many years. Dad had planned the poured floor,
so the doors and everything were set for a slab, and temporary extensions
were bolted on the bottom of the OH doors. The slab did finally come later.
G

Shouldn't be a problem with water pooling . It doesn't rain inside a
garage. And it'll heave whether or not it's a concrete slab.


s

wrote in message
...
I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?
The perimeter would be concrete of course.

It seems like it would be little different, functionally. Or am I
nuts !

Cheers -

wrote in message
...

I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?

First, inquire at the municipal building permits office whether
garage structures are permitted with gravel rather than concrete floors.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 22:33:15 -0500, Claude Hopper
wrote Re Gravel floor in garage:

wrote:
I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?
The perimeter would be concrete of course.

It seems like it would be little different, functionally. Or am I
nuts !

Cheers -

They used to build garages all the time years ago with gravel floors.
Sometimes they later poured the floors, others had wooden floors.

Indeed, as long as you don't skimp on the foundation, it would work
fine. In fact you would have the later advantage of being able to
easily install a mechanic's pit if you desire.

On Mon, 10 Nov 2008 22:33:15 -0500, Claude Hopper
wrote:

wrote:
I live in a typical suburb with typical zoning, if I were to build a
new detached garage, could I save money by having a gravel floor ?
The perimeter would be concrete of course.

It seems like it would be little different, functionally. Or am I
nuts !

Cheers -

They used to build garages all the time years ago with gravel floors.
Sometimes they later poured the floors, others had wooden floors.


I would not have a gravel garage floor, no way. Poured concrete is
just easier for auto repair work and much easier to keep clean. Epoxy
clear coat on concrete seals and protects. A smooth concrete floor
makes it easy to see any auto fluid leaks. Gravel is ok for the
driveway, but again, concrete or even asphalt is better.

wrote:

the extra moisture coming from the gravel can cause your vehicle to
rust out from below....

Not with a vapor barrier under the stone.

Nick

On Nov 11, 5:18*pm, wrote:
wrote:
the extra moisture coming from the gravel can cause your vehicle to
rust out from below....

Not with a vapor barrier under the stone.

Nick

Level ground, lay heavy plastic damp barrier Maybe couple of layers.
Cover with several inches of gravel. Put in a concrete floor later if
and when it can be afforded.

On Nov 11, 3:45*pm, terry wrote:
On Nov 11, 5:18*pm, wrote:

wrote:
the extra moisture coming from the gravel can cause your vehicle to
rust out from below....

Not with a vapor barrier under the stone.

Nick

Level ground, lay heavy plastic damp barrier Maybe couple of layers.
Cover with several inches of gravel. Put in a concrete floor later if
and when it can be afforded.

Don't know where the OP lives, but what happens if salt filled snow
melts off the car and drains down onto the water barrier?

If it froze again would that be an issue? If it doesn't freeze and
just sits there, would that be an issue?

I don't know if it'll be a problem, I'm just bringing it up.

On Nov 11, 4:39�pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Nov 11, 3:45�pm, terry wrote:

On Nov 11, 5:18�pm, wrote:

wrote:
the extra moisture coming from the gravel can cause your vehicle to
rust out from below....

Not with a vapor barrier under the stone.

Nick

Level ground, lay heavy plastic damp barrier Maybe couple of layers.
Cover with several inches of gravel. Put in a concrete floor later if
and when it can be afforded.

Don't know where the OP lives, but what happens if salt filled snow
melts off the car and drains down onto the water barrier?

If it froze again would that be an issue? If it doesn't freeze and
just sits there, would that be an issue?

I don't know if it'll be a problem, I'm just bringing it up.

letting a vehicle sit long term on wet surface like gravel will cause
more rust, espically if salt is used on roads in area

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 12:45:23 -0800 (PST), terry
wrote:

On Nov 11, 5:18Â*pm, wrote:
wrote:
the extra moisture coming from the gravel can cause your vehicle to
rust out from below....

Not with a vapor barrier under the stone.

Nick

Level ground, lay heavy plastic damp barrier Maybe couple of layers.
Cover with several inches of gravel. Put in a concrete floor later if
and when it can be afforded.


Only one problem. The cold gravel floor causes condensation when warm
damp air contacts it, the moisture drops through the stone to the
vapour barier, and cannot get away. Earth warms up a bit -
becomeswarmer than the air above, moisture leaves and condenses on the
cold car above. Said cold car has a dusting of salt, and the rust
monster is definitely off and running.

If you are going to have a non-hard-surfaced garage floor you want a
well drained and tiled foundation, with a good coarse granular fill,
covered with a good foot of clean crushed stone, which will drain and
keep things dry, or crushed stone covered with a thick, well tamped
layer of limestone fines. The fines, when compacted damp, become
ALMOST concrete.(and make a good base for a concrete floor in the
future)

If I ever build another garage it will have a re-enforced concrete
floor over about 4 inches(minimum) of high density foam board, and it
will have a central floor drain to catch any melt/runnoff. No more of
this "sloped towards the door" (roughly) that leaves puddles in the
corners.

wrote:

... The cold gravel floor causes condensation when warm damp air contacts
it, the moisture drops through the stone to the vapour barier, and cannot
get away. Earth warms up a bit - becomes warmer than the air above,
moisture leaves and condenses on the cold car above.

This could also happen with concrete, which absorbs about 1% moisture
by weight as the room RH rises from 40 to 60% and gives it back
as the room RH falls.

Nick

On 12 Nov 2008 07:06:51 -0500, wrote:

wrote:

... The cold gravel floor causes condensation when warm damp air contacts
it, the moisture drops through the stone to the vapour barier, and cannot
get away. Earth warms up a bit - becomes warmer than the air above,
moisture leaves and condenses on the cold car above.

This could also happen with concrete, which absorbs about 1% moisture
by weight as the room RH rises from 40 to 60% and gives it back
as the room RH falls.

Nick
But only 1%, not 15 or more.